How to Spend 3 Days in Madrid - A Local’s Itinerary

Growing up just outside of Madrid, I always knew that I wanted to live here, at least for a period. And thankfully, I’ve had the good fortune to call this city home for the last four years now! Of course, I’d visited countless times over the years, first with my family when I was little, and later either with friends or on my own, but living here is a totally different experience.

One of my favorite sayings is “De Madrid al cielo” - “from Madrid to heaven”, because it perfectly expresses how I feel about my city. As an adopted Madrileña (like half the city’s population!), I absolutely love wandering through its streets, discovering new places to eat or grab a coffee, getting to know the different neighborhoods, and taking advantage of the endless artistic and cultural offerings.

People often say Madrid is the next Paris or London, and while they mean this in a positive way, I don’t think that’s right. Because for me, Madrid has its own magic, and it isn’t trying to be like anywhere else. This is a deeply Spanish city that proudly maintains its roots and traditions, and while it’s certainly always evolving, it holds on to that distinctly Spanish feeling. When you’re in Madrid, you know you’re in Spain.

The itinerary that I’ve put together aims to show you quintessential Madrid, mixing in some of my favorite places along with a long list of iconic and unmissable sights. I’ve planned out 3 very days for you, which will have you exploring almost the entirety of the city center, getting a great feel for its various neighborhoods in addition to the big landmarks and monuments.

Just be warned: this is not a leisurely itinerary where you’ll spend long hours sipping a coffee or cocktail in a square or lounging in your hotel. With only 3 days in Madrid, there simply isn’t time for that, so I’ve got you out and about for the better part of each day, from morning through evening.

If that sounds like your travel style, this itinerary should be a great fit. Let’s check it out.


Itinerary overview

Day 1: The city center: Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor, Palacio Real, and Prado Museum

Get your bearings in Puerta del Sol, the absolute center of Madrid. From there, window shop along Gran Via, then take a walking tour around the city center, checking out the most iconic parts of Madrid, including the Royal Palace, Plaza Mayor, and Mercado de San Miguel.

Later on, stroll down Gran Via past Plaza Callao, and amble along Paseo del Prado, finishing finish up the day at El Prado, Madrid’s truly world-class art museum.

Day 2: Explore Lavapiés, visit the Reina Sofia Museum, stroll through Retiro Park, spend the night in Barrio de Las Letras

Begin the day in the multicultural neighborhood of Lavapies, enjoying a tasty breakfast at Pum Pum Cafe, a local classic. From there, take in some art at the Reina Sofia museum, including Picasso’s Guernica. After, walk along Cuesta de Moyano, the street of antique bookstores, and onto Retiro Park to enjoy the ponds, gardens, and emblematic Crystal Palace.

In the evening, check out Puerta de Alcalá and then make your way to Barrio de Las Letras, our historic literary quarter. People watch in Plaza de Santa Ana and end the day with a live jazz show at Café Central.

Day 3: Neighborhood hopping in La Latina, Malasaña, and Arguelles

You’ll have seen most of Madrid’s major sights in your first two days, so today is all about exploring the city and getting a feel for it’s neighborhoods. First up is the elegant and upscale Barrio de Salamanca. Then, you’ll continue on to bohemian and lively Malasaña, where you can enjoy a good tortilla and a stroll past vintage shop-lined streets and the Plaza Dos de Mayo.

Cross back over Gran Via for some chocolate and churros at San Ginés, before strolling over to the Templo de Debod and grabbing dinner in Arguelles. Finally, cap things of with a drink and incredibly city views from the rooftop terrace at RIU Hotel.


Day 1: Madrid’s city center and main sights

For your first day in Madrid, I’ve organized a a jam-packed sightseeing tour that will take you all through the city center and to many of Madrid’s most iconic sights, landmarks, and monuments. This is a busy day with a lot of walking, but I think it’s the perfect introduction to Madrid. And of course, I’ve made time for some breaks and great meals along the way.

Puerta del Sol. Photo: Tomás Fano, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Morning

Puerta del Sol

Where else could a Madrid itinerary begin than in Puerto del Sol, the true city center of the city and a major cultural, historical, and transportation hub. This square is among the oldest areas of Madrid and the it’s a bustling and lively area at any time of day or night.

Here, you’ll be surrounded by lovely historic buildings, long-standing cafés, and shops of all kinds. And with streets branching off in all directions, you’ve got the rest of the city center right at your fingertips.

Take some time to soak in your surroundings and be sure to check out a couple of the unmissable sights in the square:

  • The statue of El Oso y El Madroño (“The Bear and the Strawberry Tree”),

  • The Clock at Casa de Correos (used for the famous New Year’s Eve celebrations)

  • And the Kilometer Zero Maker, a plaque on the ground that marks the starting point of Spain’s road system. All roads start from here!

La Mallorquina Pastry shop

Before leaving the square, I suggest you fuel up on pastries at La Mallorquina, a Madrid institution that has been in operation since the 1800’s. Located directly on the edge of the square, the shop oozes old-world charm and its display cases are filled with delicious treats.

I strongly recommend their signature chocolate napolitana, but the ensaimadas (a pastry typical of the Balearic islands) and croissants, as well as other varieties of Spanish pastries are all very good.

The shop is quite small and usually very crowded, and I should warn you that it will seem pretty disorganized. It can be intimidating to go into, so just be confident and gently push your way through to the counter to make your order - this is part of the experience!

La Mallorquina pastry shop. Photo: Enric, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Plaza Mayor

Once you’ve munched down a napolitana (or two!) set off down Calle Mayor (one of the principal streets in the center) in the direction of the Plaza Mayor, a grand and beautiful 400 year-old square, and one of the most iconic sites in Madrid.

Surrounded by red buildings with pretty balconies and ground floor porticoes that stretch all around the square, it’s the perfect place for pictures, a glass of tinto de verano, or the famous bocadillo de calamares, the fried calamari sandwich.

There’s always something going on here and the square hosts all types of events every year, from markets to bullfights to festivals. During Christmas time, it’s lit up with lovely lights and hosts a Christmas market, so is especially fun during the holidays.

From the square, which is accessed via a series of arched entranceways, you can quickly connect to nearby places of interest like Mercado de San Miguel, a historic food market; Calle Mayor, the avenue I just mentioned above, which leads to Chocolatería San Ginés, the city’s best churros and hot chocolate spot; Sobrino de Botín, the oldest working restaurant in the world; and a series of other little squares and charming side streets.

This is one of the most visited places in Madrid, so it’s definitely touristy and the souvenir shops are kind of tacky, but the atmosphere is still unbeatable. So enjoy the busyness, admire the architecture, and just breath it all in.

The Plaza Mayor

Plaza de Ópera and the Teatro Real

One of the great things about Madrid’s historic center is how compact it is and how close together many of the main sights are. In just a morning and purely on your own two feet, you can really see and do a lot.

So, just about 5 minutes north of the Plaza Mayor is another marvelous square: the Plaza de Opéra. Here, you’ll see the 19th century Teatro Real (Royal Theater), which is one of the world’s great opera houses. There are performances all throughout the year and they also offer guided tours, so it’s well worth a visit or checking the schedule if this is something you’re interested in.

The Royal Palace, Campo del Moro, and Almudena Cathedral

Next up is the star attraction of your morning walking tour: The Palacio Real. So, just stroll around to the other side of the theater and you’ll come across the gardens that line the route up to the Royal Palace. The Palace is truly massive, so you can’t miss it.

This majestic and monumental structure, with its gorgeous neoclassic façade, is the official residence of the Spanish royal family and although they don’t actually live there, it’s still used for their official ceremonies.

Honestly, just admiring the palace from the outside and strolling through the gardens of the adjacent Campo del Moro (they’re free to access) is enough for most people, but you can also go inside to tour some of the opulent rooms. There are options for guided or self-guided visits (with an audio guide), both of which take around 1.5 hours.

Just opposite the palace is the colossal Almudena Cathedral, whose Neo-Gothic interior is almost shockingly modern, with an eclectic collection of artworks and styles. It’s pretty interesting. Entrance is free and a quick walk through will give you a sense for that, along with its impressive scale.

The gardens of the Campo del Moro leading up to the Palacio Real. Photo: ECsonka, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons

Catedral de la Almudena. Photo: Luis García, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Afternoon

Lunch

You will almost certainly be hungry by this point, and there are tons of restaurants in this area, so you’ll have a wide selection. My recommendation would be to head over to La Mi Venta, a long-running family-owned restaurant that serves very typical dishes, wine, and tapas. It’s very popular and is far from a hidden gem, so just don’t expect a little tucked away, “locals only” spot.

Also, you should be aware that service at restaurants is generally pretty slow in Spain, especially around lunchtime, so don’t expect to rush in and out if somewhere is busy. Spaniards like to linger over a long lunch, so embrace the slower pace and take a nice break after a busy morning.

Plaza de España

After lunch, stroll a few minute’s north to Plaza de España, one of Madrid’s largest and most significant squares. The big sight on the square is the towering Monument to Miguel de Cervantes, the renowned author of Don Quixote. The monument is quite neat, depicting the author himself accompanied by his famous novel’s two main characters, Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.

Around the monument, you’ll find a pool and pleasant green spaces where locals often sit to relax, enjoy lunch, or take a stroll. There are also frequent events held in the square, from markets and concerts to ice rinks in winter and outdoor movie screenings in summer.

The square is surrounded by skyscrapers like the Edificio España and the RIU Hotel (which has an awesome rooftop - I’ve planned a stop there on day 3!), so it offers an interesting contrast to the tighter and lower architecture that you’ll have seen around Puerta del Sol and the Plaza Mayor.

Plaza de España. Photo: Carlos Delgado, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A walk along Gran Vía and Plaza Callao

From Plaza de España, it’s time to head east to the other side of the city center, which you can reach by walking entirely along Gran Vía, often referred to as Madrid's “Broadway” or “West End.” This broad avenue is the city center’s principal artery, and it’s also a shopper's paradise, featuring international brands, luxury boutiques, and the largest Zara and Primark stores in the world.

It’s also the heart of Madrid’s theater scene, with beautiful theaters lined up along it that put on Broadway shows and other performances.

About 10 minutes into your walk, you’ll reach Plaza del Callao, which is known as Madrid’s version of Times Square. With bright neon lights, street performers, and crowds of people at all times, Callao is pure big city energy. The surrounding theaters frequently host red-carpet events, movie premieres, and commercial events or expos, and it’s not uncommon to spot a celebrity when there’s a premiere! It’s a lot of fun.

On the square, you’ll notice a tall building with the “El Corte Inglés” sign. El Corte Inglés is a major Spanish department store chain, and this particular outpost features the Gourmet Experience, a rooftop space with amazing views ofverGran Vía. If you’re up for it, I suggest heading up to the 9th floor to check it out!

From there, you’ll also get a great view of the Edificio Capitol (also known as the “Schweppes Building”), famous for its neon sign.

Plaza del Callao, along Gran Vía. Photo: Diriye Amey from Locarno, Switzerland, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Cibeles Fountain

Once you’ve finished checking out Callao, continue along Gran Vía for another 10 minutes or so until you reach the Plaza de Cibeles, one of Madrid’s most iconic and historically significant squares. It’s located at the intersection of Paseo del Prado, Calle de Alcalá, and Paseo de Recoletos.

Take a moment to admire the Cibeles Fountain, a monumental 18th-century sculpture that depicts Cybele, the Greek goddess of nature and fertility, riding a chariot. It symbolizes strength and resilience and has become a cultural landmark, especially as the gathering spot for Real Madrid fans who come here to celebrate the team’s victories.

Directly behind the fountain stands the Palacio de Cibeles, an impressive Neo-Gothic and Modernist building that was originally the headquarters of the Spanish Post and Telegraph Company, and now houses Madrid’s City Hall and along with a cultural center. If you have extra time, I highly recommend going inside and heading up to the roof, which overs stunning city views.

The Cibeles fountain with the Metropolis building behind

Paseo del Prado and the Prado Museum

Your next stop is the world-famous Prado Museum, which houses one of the greatest collections of art anywhere on Earth. To get there, head down Paseo del Prado, a wide, tree-lined avenue along which you’ll pass impressive buildings, lots of cafés, and the Fountain of Neptune, which is where Atlético Madrid fans celebrate their team’s victories (which aren’t quite as frequent as Real Madrid’s!).

This area is full of beautiful buildings that showcase some of the best of Madrid’s architectural splendor, and it’s also known as the Paseo del Arte (Art Walk), because it connects the Prado, Thyssen, and Reina Sofía Museums (as well as the less-known Naval Museum). Together, these three museums form what we call the “Golden Triangle of Art”, and they host a priceless collection of art.

You’ll know you’ve arrived at the Prado when you see its neoclassical façade and the statue of Diego Velázquez standing at the main entrance. So buckle up and get ready to spend some time checking out some of the finest works of art you’ll ever see.

Depending on how much you enjoy classical art, I’d suggest setting aside 2-4 hours to explore the museum. You could of course spend whole days here, but for an overview and look at some of the most famous works, I think that’s a good amount of time.

While in the museum, be sure to check out a few of its most famous pieces, including Velázquez’s Las Meninas, Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights, as well as works by Francisco de Goya, El Greco, and Rembrandt, among others.

A quick note about entrance tickets: The Prado Museum offers free entry from 6 PM to 8 PM on weekdays and from 5 PM to 7 PM on Sundays and holidays, so a visit later in the day can save you a bit of money. The line for free entry is often very long, but it actually moves quite quickly, taking around 15-20 minutes at most.

The front entrance of the Prado Museum. Photo: Emilio J. Rodríguez Posada , CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Evening

Dinner near the Prado and a night out around Puerta del Sol

It should be dinnertime when you’ve finished touring the museum, and there are lots of well-regarded restaurants nearby, so I’d suggest eating in the area. Murillo Café, Taberna del Sur (a great tapas bar), or Lamucca de Prado are always good choices.

And if you’re in the mood for drinks or dessert, you’ll only be around 15 minutes from Sol, so you can head back there for a nightcap, sweet treat, or just to enjoy the atmosphere of the historic center in the evening (it’s quite different than during the daytime).


Day 2: Lavapiés, Reina Sofia Museum, Retiro Park, evening in Barrio de Las Letras

After a very busy day yesterday, the plan today is a little more relaxed and less focused on ticking off sights. You’ll start off with a bit of neighborhood exploration in Lavapiés, followed by some art & culture at the Reina Sofia Museum, and will then head for a peaceful stroll through Retiro Park, Madrid’s loveliest green space. In the evening, I’ve got you checking out the historic Barrio de Las Letras, where you’ll cap off the night with some drinks and live jazz.

Plaza de Lavapiés. Photo: Liberaler Humanist, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Morning

Breakfast at Pum Pum Cafe

Assuming you’re staying somewhere central, the historic and multicultural neighborhood of Lavapiés, where Pum Pum Cafe is located, should be super close to your hotel - probably not more than a 20-minute walk - so you can leisurely make your way over here.

Pum Pum is one of my favorite places in the city for breakfast, so I couldn’t put together an itinerary that didn’t include it. A specialty coffee shop, they serve a really good breakfast/brunch, and the rustic and homey décor is warm and inviting. It’s always hard to get a table, so I recommend getting there at opening hour - 9:30 AM -.

A wander through the Lavapiés neighborhood

After breakfast, set off into the neighborhood, which will show a very different side of Madrid than the one you say yesterday. Lavapiés is a historic neighborhood with lots of nice (if not super well-maintained) architecture and it’s a lovely neighborhood in its own right, but I think its global atmosphere is what makes it most special and distinct.

As I said above, Madrid mostly feels very traditionally Spanish, but Lavapiés has long been a hub for immigrants, and it’s a global melting pot that shows off a totally different side of the city. When wandering around, you’ll see stores with signs in many different languages, grocers selling all types of foods and produce, and a huge variety of cafés and restaurants, from Senagalese to Peruvian to the best Indian restaurants in the city.

This is also a pretty bohemian area, and since rents are lower than in other parts of the city cente, a lot of artists/artisans have opened up galleries, studios, and workshops. There are also some longstanding cultural centers to check out, as well as theaters, so this is a great area to see local art from contemporary artists.

I don’t think you really need a plan for how to explore the neighborhood, so just let yourself wander aimlessly through its pleasantly winding streets, popping in to a shop, cafe, or gallery whenever you feel like it.

Here are a couple of places to be on the lookout for:

  • La Casa Encendida - a social and cultural center housed in a very impressive building, they put on cutting edge exhibitions, host concerts and events, and run all sorts of classes/workshops on a wide variety of topics.

  • La Tabacalera - a former tobacco factory complex, this is now a cultural center that hosts exhibits, puts on performances and concerts, has an artists collective, and organizes arts courses.

  • Calle de Lavapiés and Plaza de Lavapiés - this is a busy, partly pedestrianized street filled with shops, restaurants, and café that runs straight through the neighborhood. It intersects with Plaza de Lavapiés, one the main squares, and a nice place to have a seat and do some people watching.

  • Mercado Antón Martín and Mercado de San Fernando - these are two predominantly food-focused local markets where you’ll find stalls selling all sorts of food and goods as well as some restaurants making meals to order. They’re great for a quick bite if you’re feeling hungry after exploring the neighborhood.

La Casa Encendida cultural center. Photo: Luis García, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Reina Sofia Museum 

After a morning of neighborhood wandering and checking out local, contemporary art and culture, let’s maintain the theme but on a grander scale. For that, it’s time to visit the Reina Sofia museum on the eastern edge of Lavapiés.

This is one of the 3 museums that forms Madrid’s “Golden Triangle of Art” and it has an extraordinary collection of modern art (mostly 20th century) mainly from some of Spain’s finest artists. A huge and sprawling museum in a very modern and avant-garde building (it’s super cool), you’ll find exceptional works from world-famous artists like Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, and Joan Miró.

Of course, if you’re already familiar with the museum, it’s probably because of one artwork in particular: Picasso’s “Guernica”, considered one of the most moving and powerful anti-war paintings in history. It’s a world classic and a must see, in my opinion.

For casual visitors, I’d suggest planning to spend 1-2 hours in the museum (of course, you could spend much longer here, and some people would be shocked that I’ve recommended so little time!).

Afternoon

Lunch

From the Reina Sofia museum you’re right on the edge of the Parque del Retiro, which is where you’ll be spending the better part of the afternoon, but you’ll probably be hungry by this point, so I suggest grabbing lunch first.

There are lots of good restaurants nearby, but I always love a picnic in Retiro, so my recommendation would be to grab supplies from one of the markets that I mentioned above and bring them to the park with you.

You’ll then be able to spread out in the grass and enjoy a meal in one of the best parks in the world!

Cuesta de Moyano Hill and its old-school booksellers

Whatever you decide for lunch, to get to the park you’ll first walk past the roundabout beside Atocha Train Station (Marid’s, and therefore Spain’s central train station), and will then begin to walk up Calle Claudio Moyano, a pedestrianized walkway where you’ll find a row of kiosks of second-hand booksellers. These bookstands have been here since as far back as the 1920’s, and they’re the perfect place to pick up a couple of inexpensive books.

Many famous writers have browsed these kiosks, and some of the books have old photographs and love notes tucked away in them, while you’ll also find some vintage postcards and various other antiques. This spot is a literary symbol of the city and, even if you’re not a big reader (or just don’t want any new books), it’s very quaint and charming and feels a little bit like a window into the past.

The Feria de Libros on Cuesta de Moyano. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Retiro Park

As you climb the hill, you’ll see one of the main entrances to Retiro Park, Puerta del Ángel Caído (The Gate of the Fallen Angel). So walk through, continue on for another 15 minutes uphill, and you’ll see the Fallen Angel statue. Several pathways branch off in different directions from there, so just pick one and start exploring.

As with Lavapiés, I don’t think it makes sense to give you a step-by-step plan for what to do in Retiro, so I’ve just listed some of the main sights below. I think the park is best enjoyed leisurely, with ample time for sitting on the benches, smelling the roses (literally!), and enjoying the sunshine. With that in mind, I’d suggest planning to spend 2-3 hours here.

Here are some of the places not to be missed within the park:

  • El Palacio de Cristal: Originally designed to be a giant greenhouse, the Crystal Palace now serves as an exhibition center for art displays. Those are always nice, but really you come here to see the magnificent glass structure and take photos. It’s right on the edge of a lovely pond, so is super picturesque and perfect to stroll around.

  • Estanque Grande de El Retiro: about a 5-10 minute walk from the Crystal Palace, this is Retiro’s main pond, backed by a colonnaded monument with a towering staute of King Alfonso XII on horseback rising over it. People love to sit and lounge around on the monument’s stairs, and there are aso little boats for rent that you can take out on the pond.

  • La Rosaleda Gardens: These are the rose gardens, and while they’re most spectacular in May and June, it’s beautiful at any time of year.

  • Paseo de la Argentina: More commonly known as the Paseo de las Estatuas (the Walk of Statues), this path is lined by statues that pay tribute to past Spanish kings, along with an interestingly landscaped hedge grove.

  • Cecilio Rodríguez Garden: on the eastern side of the park, this is a classical-style garden that is a little bit hidden away and therefore sees way less crowds than the better-known areas. The gardens are lovely and you’ll find lots of pretty fountains and pergolas, but the most exciting feature are the free-roaming peacocks!

  • Florida Park or Gruta del Parque del Buen Retiro: if you want a drink or a bit to eat while in the park, these are your two options. Florida is very expensive, but is quite chic, while Gruta del Parque is much more casual.

The Palacio de Cristal in Retiro Park. Photo: vpogarcia, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Puerta de Alcalá

Assuming you mostly make your way up through the park, you’ll come out on its northern edge near to Puerta de Alcalá, Madrid’s most famous gate and a symbol of the city. Situated on Plaza de la Independencia, this neoclassical royal city gate was built in 1778, commissioned by King Alfonso XII and designed by Francesco Sabatini, who also designed the Royal Gardens.

The gate’s name originates from the road that once connected Madrid with the town of Alcalá de Henares (which also has a royal city gate, that one called Puerta de Madrid!).

So take some photos of the gate and then start heading over toward your last stop for the day: Barrio de Las Letras.

The Puerta de Alcalá. Photo: Kaofenlio, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons

Evening

A night out in Barrio de Las Letras

It should be evening by the time you’ve finished exploring the park, and after an afternoon away from the bustle of the city, I think it’s time to dive back in! So spend the evening tonight exploring Barrio de Las Letras, an atmospheric and historic neighborhood that is known as Madrid’s literary quarter.

The neighborhood is about a 20-minute walk from Puerta de Alcalá, or you can hop on the metro and ride it to Banco de España, the nearest stop.

This part of Madrid was a favorite haunt for writers, including Miguel de Cervantes and Lope de Vega, and its name pays tribute to that heritage. You’ll even find literary quotes stamped into the narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets! Filled with lovely 16th century buildings, lots of bohemian and independent boutiques, and lively squares, this is a wonderful place to spend an evening in Madrid.

For a first introduction to the neighborhood, I always recommend a stroll on its main thoroughfare, Calle de Las Huertas. A narrow little street, it’s tightly lined with pretty old buildings and has lots of quirky shops, bookstores, restaurants, cafés, and bars all along it. It’s also a big nightlife street, so is great for bar hopping!

Calle de las Huertas. Photo: Gerda Arendt, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Dinner in Plaza de Santa Ana

Toward the end of Calle de las Huertas is Plaza de Santa Ana, a major meeting point in the neighborhood and its most impressive square. There are always people hanging out and chatting here and kids playing, and the restaurants that surround it all have pleasant outdoor terraces.

So, this is where I’d suggest you grab dinner, just picking wherever looks good to you. Ernest Hemingway used to hang out at Cervecería Alemana, a bar/restaurant right on the square, and he called it “a good place to drink beer and coffee”, so it’s always a fun place to try out. It’s been around since 1904, and while the food is nothing special, it’s an institution.

After dinner, there are lots of streets to explore that run off of the square, with the major ones being Calle de León, Calle del Prado, Calle Lope de Vega, and Calle Príncipe. They’ll all be busy in the evening and have lots going on, so the best suggestion I have is just to take your time strolling along them and enjoying the atmosphere.

Plaza de Santa Ana. Photo: Photo: Edgardo W. Olivera from Montevideo, Uruguay, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Live Jazz at Café Central

To end the night I think it’s almost obligatory that you check out Café Central, a jazz club that has been a cornerstone of Madrid’s live music scene since the 1980’s. The musicians are mostly very good and the atmosphere is always upbeat and fun. So enjoy a drink and mingle with the lively crowd, typically a mix of locals and tourists.


Day 3:

Having already seen many of Madrid’s main sights on the prior two days, I think your third day in the city can be dedicated less to sightseeing than just enjoying yourself and getting a feel for the city. With that in mind, I’ve planned a day of neighborhood hopping, from La Latina to Malasaña, and on to Arguelles. These are three of the nicest neighborhoods in the city and it’s a lot of fun to explore them at a relaxed pace with no big plans in mind.

Plaza de la Paja in La Latina. Photo: Jorgecft, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Morning

La Latina neighborhood

Start your day exploring La Latina, one of my favorite neighborhoods in the city. Just to the south of the Plaza Mayor, this is a central, historic, and charming part of Madrid whose origins date back to the time of Moorish conquest. Little remains from that period though, and most of what you’ll see here was built from the 16th century onwards (hardly recent though!).

And despite that the neighborhood isn’t actually medieval, the layout of it very much feels like it is, with narrow streets winding their way out onto little squares, and pretty fountains.

Before starting your wander through the neighborhood in earnest, I’d suggest having breakfast at one of the bars surrounding the neighborhood’s main plazas (squares), like Plaza de la Cebada or Plaza de la Paja, or on Calle de la Cava Baja, a historic street that used to be a resting place for visiting merchants. Today, it houses more than fifty bars and restaurants!

Regardless of where you eat, be sure to check out all three of those spots, as they’re some of the main sights in the neighborhood.

As for what to see and do, a lot of the pleasure of a visit to La Latina is just wandering around. As I said above, this is one of the oldest areas of the city, so the architecture is lovely, and despite its proximity to Puerta del Sol and other big sights, it feels surprisingly local.

Having said that, here are some places not to be missed:

  • Churches: the Basílica de San Francisco el Grande, Iglesia de San Andrés, and Iglesia de San Pedro.

  • El Rastro, an open-air flea market where you can pick up antiques, odds and ends, junk, and lots of other fun stuff. Always fun to browse

  • Mercado de la Cebada - A 2-story market selling mostly food but also clothes and other items

  • Puerta de Toledo - the last of the city gates, built in the 19th century

  • Plaza de la Cebada, Plaza de la Paja, and Calle de la Cava Baja (see above)

Calle de la Cava Baja in La Latina. Photo: ajay_suresh, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Afternoon

Malasaña neighborhood

Ok, next up on your day of neighborhood wandering is Malasaña, one of the city’s most famous neighborhoods and surely a name you’ve already heard of. This part of the city is most popular as a go-out area in the evenings, and while it does have really good nightlife, I think it’s a lot of fun to explore during the day, when the crowds are mostly absent.

One of Madrid’s most bohemian and eclectic neighborhoods, Malasaña is sort of synonymous with hipster culture at this point, but it was long the heart of Madrid’s counterculture movement, starting from around the 1970’s. That alternative spirit is still very much alive here, and the neighborhood has lots of cool independent shops - mostly affordable rather than high-end - that feature many local makers and creatives.

From La Latina, you can reach Malsaña by walking about 30 minutes north through Puerta del Sol and across Gran Vía, or can hop on the metro, which will get you there in about 10 minutes.

Calle del Espíritu Santo in Malasaña. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Lunch

I think it should be around lunchtime by this point, and I’d suggest sitting down for a meal at Pez Tortilla. Very famous, this is far from a “hidden gem”, but it’s a fun little bar that serves up what I think are genuinely the best tortillas de patatas in Madrid. Remember, some places become famous for a reason! I especially recommend the goat cheese tortilla, as well as their croquetas.

Try to get here by 1:00 at the latest as their peak hours are from 2-4 PM, during which time it’s really hard to get a table.

A stroll along Calle del Pez and Calle del Espíritu Santo

After lunch, I recommend roaming along Calle del Pez (a very narrow street in the neighborhood and a setting for lots of films) and Calle del Espíritu Santo, where you’ll find tons of vintage shops, antique stores, bookshops, plant shops, and nice cafés.

Many of the adjacent streets are similarly filled with shops, so if you’re looking to pick anything up during your visit, this is a great area to peruse.

In general, Malasaña is just full of personality, with many murals, quirky street art, neat shops; studios; and galleries, and a great selection of places to eat and drink, so it’s easy and very pleasant to spend a couple of hours just wandering around and browsing the stores.

Plaza del Dos de Mayo

The cornerstone of the neighborhood is Plaza del Dos de Mayo, a lively square with a lot of history - this is where key moments of the May 2, 1808 uprising against the French took place, and you’ll find monuments memorializing the rebellion in the square.

Plaza del 2 de Mayo. Photo: Nicolas Vigier from Paris, France, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Museo de Historia de Madrid

If you want to get a better understanding of Madrid’s history and development, this nice museum just to the east of the 2 de Mayo Plaza is a great place to do it. Housed in a former hospice for the poor, the museum’s Baroque entranceway is marvelous, considered one of the finest examples of this style in all of Madrid. It’s worth stopping by just to see the facade e even if you don’t want to visit.

The museum is free to visit and you can get through in well under an hour, so it makes for a quick and interesting stop and a nice change of pace from exploring neighborhoods.

The Baroque entranceway to the Museo de Historia de Madrid. Photo: Ricardo Peironcely, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Evening

A snack at Sin Gines

Whenever you feel like you’ve gotten a feel for Malasaña and are ready to move on, head back in the direction of Puerta del Sol, stopping off along the way at San Gines, probably the best (and most famous) place in Madrid for hot chocolate with churros.

Founded in 1894, this café has become a go-to for Madrileños and visitors alike and has long served as a meeting spot for important literary and cultural figures.

It's in a quaint alley near the Church of San Ginés, and open 24 hours a day, it has a charmingly old-world interior and great outdoor seating, with small tables lined up on their terrace. It’s worth taking your time here as a visit is an essential part of the Madrid experience (for me anyways!).

Templo de Debod

After San Ginés, your next stop is Templo de Debod. An unexpected attraction in Madrid, the Templo de Debod is a 2nd Century BC Nubian temple that was originally built in Aswan in southern Egypt. It was donated to the Spanish state in the 1960’s as a show of gratitude for the country’s assistance with relocating ancient monuments to facilitate a dam development project in Egypt. The temple was deconstructed and then transported to Madrid piece by piece, where it was rebuilt just to the south of the lovely Parque del Oeste.

The temple sits on a plaza on a hill, with plenty of green spaces for resting, a path to stroll, and amazing views over the Royal Palace, the gardens, and the nearby mountains.

I especially like to visit the site right around sunset, but depending on the season during which you’re visiting,, that might not be until quite late (around 10pm in summer, or 6pm in winter). Either way, this is a place worth visiting at any time of day, and you can still catch a great sunset from your final stop today (the rooftop of the RIU hotel - see below).

The Templo de Debod

Dinner and a wander in Argüelles

From Templo de Debod, the pleasant neighborhood of Arguelles is just to the east and is worth a wander through. With a couple of universities here/nearby, the neighborhood is youthful but fairly quiet and quite local, making it a nice place to wrap up your time in Madrid amongst locals rather than tourists.

The area is a charming and feels very residential, and owing to the large student population it has lots of affordable restaurants, bars, and shops. Calle de la Princesa is the main thoroughfare, but as the neighborhood has no real sights worth noting, it doesn’t really matter where you go. So just wander around and explore.

For dinner, there are tons of options, but the following three are always good best: La Charca Taberna (great Asturian food), Origen Taberna Madrid (tapas), or El Pimiento Verde (one of the most popular spots in the neighborhood).

Rooftop views from RIU Hotel (Sky Bar 360)

Say goodbye to Madrid with some incredible city views from the rooftop terrace of the classic RIU Hotel. The terrace is accessed from the back of the hotel and the 10 euro entrance fee is absolutely worth paying.

Located on the 27th floor, the rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of the city, including Gran Via, the Royal Palace, and the nearby Plaza de España! Both the sunset and nighttime views are amazing and there’s typically live music adding a bit of ambiance. There’s a bar where you can order drinks or some bits to eat as well.

For me, this is the perfect place from which to survey and say goodbye to the city that you’ve just devoured over the last three days.

View of the Palacio Real and Almudena Cathedral from the RIU Hotel’s rooftop. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons


Optional 4th day: day trips outside the city

You will have seen quite a lot of Madrid over the first three days of this itinerary, so if you have an extra day here, I think a day trip out to one of the nearby historic cities is a nice way to mix things up and see somewhere different. Below are the places that I’d suggest considering:

Segovia

Just over an hour from Madrid by train, this is an enchanting city you will not want to miss! It is famous for its well-preserved roman aqueduct, a monumental structure that has stood for nearly 2,000 years and is an iconic symbol of the city.

There are dozens of charming streets to explore in the old town. A second must-see is the Alcázar of Segovia, a fairytale-like castle that inspired Disney's Snow White; and a third must-see attraction is the Segovia Cathedral, an impressive example of Gothic architecture.

Some places to explore in the city are Plaza Mayor, the Jewish Quarter, and the Mirador de la Pradera de San Marcos. Typical things to try in this city are the cochinillo asado (the roast suckling pig).

Segovia

Toledo

Just a 30-minute train ride outside of the city, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a great day trip to include in your itinerary! Toledo used to be the capital of Spain and is full of history and culture and is a perfect place to stroll around and imagine Spain during medieval times. It is perched on a hilltop, offering amazing views to the Tajo River.

Often called the “City of Three Cultures”, this city is split into the Jewish Quarter, the Moorish Quarter, and the Christian Quarter. Each of these areas has so much to see!

For example, the Toledo Cathedral, the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca, the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes. Toledo also hosts some of El Greco's famous work at the Church of Santo Tomé.

Some typical things to be on the lookout for in the city are the partridge stew and marzipan desserts, the sword shops, and local jewelry. I also recommend checking out Mirador del Valle to take a look at Toledo’s “skyline”!

Toledo

Alcalá de Henares

Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this charming little city is a delightful day trip from Madrid and only 35 minutes away by train. Known as the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, the city is full of literary and cultural heritage and is a perfect example of a medieval town!

Some main things to see are the Plaza de Cervantes, the heart of Alcalá; as well as Cervantes Birthplace Museum, where you can explore the author´s home. Stroll through the area and you'll arrive at Universidad de Alcalá, one of the oldest universities in teh world, known for its stunning façade and architecture.

Other important attractions are the Cathedral of Alcalá and Corral de Comedias, one of the oldest medieval theaters in Spain. As someone who lived and studied in Alcalá, I recommend strolling along Calle Mayor, enjoying the ambiance and trying out the costrada, a traditional pastry.

Alcalá de Henares. Photo: Raimundo Pastor, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons


Sarah Williams Matias

Sarah is a Brazilian-American writer born and raised in Spain. She currently lives in Madrid, where she teaches creative writing workshops and collaborates on educational projects.

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