A Local’s Guide to Visiting the Aeolian Islands
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The archipelago of the Aeolian Islands lies just off the northeastern coast of Sicily, not far from Messina. A chain of seven major islands and a number of minor ones, as well as islets and protruding rocks, it was forged over millenia by periodic volcanic eruptions.
The main islands are Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Filicudi, and Alicudi, and although they are quite near to one another and were all formed by the same volcanic system, each island has its own identity and distinct landscapes.
According to mythology, the islands are named after Aeolus, the Greek god of the winds, who chose to establish his residence on the island of Lipari. Homer recounts in his famous Odyssey that Ulysses arrived here after surviving the Cyclops, and King Aeolus welcomed him and his companions and gave Ulysess a wineskin in which he had trapped all the strong and dangerous winds, so that his journey home would be gentle and serene (of course, it didn’t work out this way though!).
The islands, referred to as the "seven pearls of the Mediterranean", are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They are enchanting places lapped by a sapphire-blue sea, characterized by wild nature and two active volcanoes, and countless place to hike, climb, swim, and explore by boat. I've been coming back every summer since I was a kid and I never get tired of them.
Today, although the Aeolian Islands can become overcrowded in the peak summer months, they retain their pristine beauty and offer a chance for visitors to escape into genuinely peaceful natural surroundings. To enjoy them to the fullest, avoid just doing a quick day trip, and instead take your time to discover them all, staying here for at least a few days.
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Table of Contents
What is the Aeolian Archipelago?
Why visit
Overview of the 7 Islands
Where are the Aeolian Islands?
How to get here
Best time to visit
How long to spend
Where to stay
Transportation and getting around on the islands
What to see and do
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What is the Aeolian Archipelago?
The Aeolian islands. Photo: Norman Einstein, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This string of 7 UNESCO-protected islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea off Sicily’s northern coast offers a variety of volcanic landscapes, each with its own character.
Having been underwater volcanoes until 700,000 years ago, the islands then emerged during a period of intense volcanic activity that lasted over 260,000 years, producing the dramatic steep and sloping landscapes that we see today.
This volcanic activity continues still, albeit much less intensely: the volcanoes of Stromboli and Vulcano are still active, but you can also see thermal waters and steaming fumaroles on every island.
The island themselves are green and lush, filled with an abundance of flora that thrives on the rich volcanic soil found here. Along the coastlines, you’ll find black stone cliffs falling straight into the sea, contrasting sharply with the intense green of the wild vegetation and the expansive fields of capers and malvasia grown here.
And just offshore, an incredible sapphire blue sea laps at the islands’ steep coasts.
Why visit
Looking out at the other islands from Vulcano. Photo: Giovanni from Catania, Sicily, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Aeolian islands are famous for their volcanic features, which have made them a Unesco World Heritage site since 2000. All 7 main islands are relatively close together, so one of the greatest pleasures of a visit here is to island hop between them, which will give you the chance to experience just how different each one is from the next.
And while many people equate islands with beaches, this is most definitely not the kind of place that you come to laze around on the beach. Yes, there are some nice ones, but there are better beaches elsewhere in Sicily and Italy, so that shouldn’t be the focus of your visit.
Rather, the Aeolian Islands are the ideal place to practice responsible eco/nature-based tourism: the islands are filled with walking and hiking trails, vineyards, volcanic deserts, fields of capers, lush citrus gardens, black-sand beaches, and impressive cliffs jutting out into the sea.
Although volcanoes are often destructive, the volcanic activity of the archipelago has actually been the fortune of the place, creating an extraordinary and ever-changing landscape and extremely fertile, nutrient-rich soil. When here, do not miss the chance to taste the good local wines, especially Malvasia, and the capers.
Of the 3 main islands where you’re likely to spend the majority of your time, Lipari hosts the largest city along with a few very nice villages. Vulcano and Stromboli are home to fishermen’s villages lying under their (still active!) volcanic cone, and in Stromboli, you’ll have the chance to admire the impressive force of a volcano by climbing up its steep slope.
Overview of the 7 islands
Vulcano
Vulcano is the nearest island to the Sicilian coast and is named after the Roman god of iron and fire, Vulcan. It is an actual volcano that still emits smoke and a peculiar sulfurous smell. It offers magnificent views over the other islands, and it has very affordable accommodation options.
The sulfurous smell is a constant everywhere on the island, but it’s relatively low-grade and just about everyone gets used to it without issue. And the smell is a small price to pay for the gorgeous nature, therapeutic mud baths (a free natural spa!), and impressive crater hike.
Lipari
Lipari is the largest island and hosts a city also called Lipari. In high season, it can get overcrowded, but it offers reasonably priced accommodation and is especially popular with families. It is also a convenient base from which to explore the entire archipelago as it has the best-served port with the most transportation options.
The town has a nice walking street flanked by pastel-colored houses, shops and restaurants, a vibrant harbor, and an archaeological museum retracing the archipelago’s history.
You can reach its main beaches – Canneto and Spiaggia Bianca – by taking the local bus that runs all around the island.
Salina
Salina is fairly large, quite central, and well-connected to other islands. It has two peaks and is known as Isola Verde (the green island) due to its verdant valleys dotted with vineyards producing the Malvasia, a renowned dessert wine. It hosts a beautiful natural reserve called Fossa delle Felci inside an extinct volcano crater.
The crescent bay found here, called Pollara, was a filming location for the 1994 movie The Postman, so you can imagine how picturesque it is. Add in that there isn’t any of the over-tourism you see on Vulcano and Lipari, and that makes Salina a very nice place to escape the crowds.
Apart from the town around the harbor, Santa Marina Salina, you can also stay in Malfa, a charming town with lots of hotels, boutiques, restaurants, great views over Panarea and Stromboli, and a pedestrian area.
Stromboli
Stromboli is an active volcano, and it offers exactly what you’d expect: a conical shape crowned with a peak spewing bright red lava. You can climb the volcano or admire the lava explosions from a distance on a boat.
There is not much to do beyond the volcano, apart from relaxing on a shining black sand beach, but trust me, a visit here is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It is known as the lighthouse of the Mediterranean due to its regular lava spurts (every 15-20 minutes, night and day).
Stromboli is a car-free island, but it is perfectly walkable and there are golf carts that you can rent to travel around in.
If you decide to stay here and are looking for a quiet holiday, choose Ginostra as your base, a quaint village on a secluded flank of the island. Only a few people live here year-round, so it’s extremely tranquil for much of the year.
The island is accessible only by boat through its harbor, the tiniest in the world!
Panarea
Panarea is the smallest and most exclusive island of the chain. It is just 3 square kilometers and is covered with wild vegetation and dotted with tiny white houses. Celebrities love the island thanks to its pristine waters and perfect privacy.
It is best suited as a day trip because staying there is too expensive and the island itself doesn’t offer more than a couple of beaches, a prehistoric village, and… the sea around it!
Alicudi
Alicudi is the westernmost and wildest island. Just a few people and donkeys live here year-round, based in the small town around the harbor. Some tiny houses are scattered elsewhere around the island and no cars or motorcycles are allowed here. There aren’t even roads, just mule paths and stone steps.
If you want a getaway from the modern world, Alicudi is the place to be. But be aware, there are no shops, ATMs, or clubs, and not even electricity at night.
Filicudi
Filicudi is another remote island off the beaten path, but it offers more services than Alicudi and cars are allowed. It is quite far away from the other islands, and while it’s a bit more developed than Alicudi, that is very much relative, and unspoiled nature absolutely rules here.
It’s the best place to enjoy a boat trip around the island and dive into its clear blue waters. It is also a perfect choice for hiking lovers.
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Where are the Aeolian Islands?
The Aeolian Islands lie in the Tyrrenhian Sea about 25 miles off the northeastern coast of Sicily. Messina, to their southeast, is the largest nearby city, and the mainland town of Milazzo, which has ferry service with the islands, is the gateway to them.
Milazzo is about 2.5 hours by car from Palermo, 40 minutes from Messina, and 2 hours from Catania.
How to get here
There is no airport in the Aeolian islands, so the only way to get here is by ferry or hydrofoil. As mentioned above, the town of Milazzo is the nearest mainland town to the islands, and this is where you’ll find the ferry service to them.
Ferries and hydrofoils, run by the company “Liberty Lines”, depart from Milazzo to the islands every day all year round, with the most frequent service (multiple departures per day) during the summer months.
There is service to all 7 of the islands, but as they vary in distance from the mainland, the journey times vary fairly significantly. Here’s a quick look at that:
By regular (slow) ferry, it will take 45 minutes to reach Vulcano, 65 for Lipari, and 95 for Salina. A bit further afield, Panarea is 2 hours away, Filicudi will take 2.5 hours to reach, and Stromboli and Alicudi are both just under 3 hours away.
Hydrofoils, when available, are much faster but they’re also a bit more expensive, with one-way tickets costing from about 20-35 euros (around 10 euros more than the slow ferry). To give you an idea, a hydrofoil will cover Milazzo to Stromboli in just over 1 hour, whereas the regular ferry takes 3.
For the nearer islands like Lipari and Vulcano, there are departures almost hourly starting from 7:00 AM and continuing until 7:00 PM. For the more distant islands, you’ll typically find 2 or 3 daily departures, with the first one usually leaving very early in the morning.
The ferries between the islands and the mainland tend to be quite busy in the summer months, so it’s always best to book your tickets in advance, as they do sell out sometimes.
In summer, you can also reach the islands via ferry from Palermo, Messina, and Reggio Calabria. Stromboli is also connected to Naples, but it’s a 6-hour crossing.
See routes, schedules, and prices here.
Best time to visit
Punta Milazzese in Panarea. Photo: Ji-Elle, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Being a summer destination, the Aeolian Islands welcome tourists mainly between June and September. August is the most expensive month and can be very crowded, so I suggest coming in the shoulder season, typically in May or early October, when the islands offer nice weather, lower prices, and fewer crowds.
Visiting in Spring
In Spring, average temperatures are quite high, allowing you to enjoy the sea by as early as April. Temperatures are also perfect for trekking, even under the midday sun, without getting too hot.
Visiting in Summer
Although Sicilian summer is notoriously hot, the Aeolian Islands tend to be a bit cooler thanks to the winds that blow through the islands.
Summer is more expensive, and you better book your accommodation and ferries well in advance as they do sell out. If possible, choose June or September instead of July and August.
Visiting in Fall
Early fall is a good choice to visit the islands without crowds, as temperatures are still pleasant, daylight hours are long, and you’ll find more availability for everything along with better prices.
Just bear in mind that the weather could affect the ferries’ schedules. They still guarantee a daily service, even if less frequent than in summer, but when the sea is stormy (more common during this season), some routes can be canceled.
Visiting in Winter
During Winter, the Aeolian Islands are very quiet as most businesses shut down for the seaon. If you’re visiting the islands during the winter months, choose Lipari, as it’s really the only one that will have any sort of activity.
Panarea, Alicudi, and Filicudi are essentially ghost towns, so aren’t very interesting to visit.
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How long to spend
Most people come for just a few days, at most, or even more common is a quick day trip to hike a volcano or enjoy a slice of la dolce vita while floating on a boat around Panarea. And while a trip of any duration to the islands is a pleasure and absolutely worthwhile, the archipelago has a lot to offer and if you can spare it, the more time the better.
I warmly recommend at least one week in the Aeolian Islands to enjoy the very best of them. With a week you could spend a day taking a boat trip, another climbing an active volcano, have time watch the lava fountain at night, enjoy some wine tasting and a good granita on Salina, a natural spa on Vulcano, the jet-set lifestyle in Panarea, and the wildlife in Alicudi and Filicudi.
If you decide to spend a full week here, I promise that you won’t regret it! If you have that much time, here’s what I would recommend: base yourself in Salina for 5 nights and then spend the last 2 nights in Stromboli.
On the first day, you can explore Salina by scooter, visit a winery, have a caper experience, and enjoy the sunset at Pollara beach.
Then, on your second day, take the hydrofoil to the most remote islands, Alicudi and Filicudi.
Next, spend day 3 on Vulcano. Catch the ferry over there and immediately set out to climb the island’s volcanic crater. Then end the day relaxing in the natural spa.
For your fourth day, take a break and enjoy a leisurely day on green Salina.
On day five, hop on a ferry and head to Lipari, exploring its nice city center, the castle, and the white beach.
For these 5 days, you should plan to return to Salina each night to spend the evening and overnight there.
On day six, pack up your luggage and catch the ferry to Stromboli, where you will stay for your last two days. On the first of them, spend the morning on the black beach, Spiaggia Lunga (just in front of the islet Strombolicchio), then hike the volcano’s peak in the afternoon or take a boat to watch the lava from the sea in the evening.
On your last day, catch the ferry to Panarea, explore its prehistoric village, spend some time on the beach, and dance all night, enjoying the summertime nightlife. You can spend your last night partying here or return to Stromboli to get an early night’s sleep before leaving for Milazzo the following morning.
Where to stay - best bases
The islands of Salina and Stromboli would be my choice for overnight stays.
Salina is lush and green, has some nice towns to visit and quite a lot to see and do, and is very centrally located, with good connections to the other islands. All of this makes it a great base for an extended stay, allowing for plenty of island hopping opportunities.
Stromboli, on the other hand, is the most distant of all the islands, so it’s best saved for your last couple of nights, once you’ve already seen the other islands.
From Stromboli, you can visit Panarea to see the celebrities and jet-setters, and enjoy the night excursion on the volcano without having to worry about catching the last ferry back somewhere else.
Vulcano also allows for day trips to each of the other islands and is the nearest to the coast of Sicily, but I just don’t like it for an extended visit mainly due to the very strong sulfur odor.
Lipari could be a good choice, being quite central and well connected, yet is is overcrowded, there is a lot of traffic, and in the height of summer, it is also a destination for in-and-out day-trippers, which makes it really chaotic.
Alicudi and Filucudi are more remote, so unless you’re looking for a very quiet, wild experience far from the crowds, they’re best visited on day trips instead.
Panarea can easily be visited from Stromboli, as they’re very close to each other, and there’s no real reason to stay on Panarea as it’s very small and far too expensive for normal people. Just visit as a day trip instead.
Salina and Stromboli - my choices
Salina
The town of Malfa, in Salina. Photo: Ghost-in-the-Shell, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Assuming you follow my recommendation to stay on Salina and Stromboli, I would suggest staying for longer on Salina, as it’s the more central of the two and will be a better base from which to set out on day trips to other islands.
Salina is a pleasant island and it’s not as overcrowded or expensive as Lipari or Panarea. It offers good hotels and restaurants and is conveniently located for day trips to other islands.
A good choice in Salina is the Hotel Ravesi in Malfa (about € 150 per night for a double room). It offers simple and nice rooms and an infinite pool overlooking Panarea and Stromboli. From there, you need to rent a scooter (on the spot) or take the bus (line Lingua-Rinella, 20 minutes) to reach the main port of Santa Marina Salina to catch the ferry for your day trips.
If you prefer to stay in Santa Marina Salina, book at I Cinque Balconi (€ 100 per night for a double room), set in a citrus garden. It lies in a pedestrian area. Rooms have wood-beamed ceilings and majolica floors.
Stromboli
Stromboli. Photo: Carsten Steger, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
On to Stromboli, which will give you the chance to enjoy the volcano’s lava show to the fullest. This is the star attraction on Stromboli, and it takes place in the evening, meaning that if you don’t stay overnight, you will be rushing to catch the last hydrofoil elsewhere immediately afterwards.
So spend the night instead and enjoy a more leisurely experience.
In Stromboli, choose a guesthouse far from the sea to enjoy the best hospitality while avoiding the summer crowds.
Agriturismo Solemare is a pleasant farm stay where you can taste local produce for breakfast.
How to get around on the islands
Every island is connected to the others by 3-4 departures per day and journey times are not especially long, so it’s quite easy to travel between them for day trips or to shift from one base to the next.
There’s no need to book these inter-island ferries in advance, as they will not sell out.
As mentioned above, the company that operates these ferries is called Liberty Lines.
As for traveling around on the islands themselves, I have one major tip: leave your car behind! On some of the islands - like Stromboli, Alicudi, and Panarea - you can't even use a car, so having one would actually be a burden.
The smaller islands are easily walkable and/or offer golf carts (Stromboli) or donkeys (Alicudi) to help you bring your luggage and get around.
The larger islands, Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, and Filicudi, do allow cars but they also have a good network of local buses, scooter rentals, and taxi services, so again, bringing a car to them just isn’t necessary.
On the bigger islands, I always recommend renting a scooter, which is a convenient and really fun way to travel here.
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What to see and do in the Aeolian Islands
Vulcano
1. Climb the smoking Great Crater
You can climb the top of Vulcano on your own, without a guide, and at your own pace. Just remember there is no shade, so get up early in the morning, wear sunscreen, and take lots of water.
On the top, you’ll be rewarded with a spectacular view over the Aeolian Islands. You can also see up close the still active crater. No worries: there’s no lava, just sulfurous fumaroles.
The Great Crater. Photo: stefan_fotos from Leipzig, Germany, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Go for a dip in a natural spa
I won't lie: Vulcano’s fumaroles smell like rotten eggs, but they also heat the waters and create a natural spa you can enjoy for free. On Spiaggia delle Fumarole, you can see the water boiling due to the effect of underwater springs.
If you’d like to enjoy a mud bath, go to the Laghetto dei Fangi, a clay lake next to the port. The sulfurous clay mud has purifying properties.
Laghetto dei Fanghi. Photo: Hein56didden, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Take a boat ride around the island
Vulcano is surrounded by curious rocky formations and fascinating coves, so a boat ride is the perfect choice to discover its hidden wonders. Boat trips depart from the port throughout the day.
The tour usually begins coasting along Vulcanello, a promontory linked to the island by an isthmus created by a volcanic eruption in the 16th century. Next up, you’ll reach the so-called
Valley of the Monsters, lava rocks resembling monstrous figures. You will also visit two marine caves, Grotta degli Angeli and Grotta del Cavallo, and the Piscina di Venere (Venus’s pool). The boat trip takes about 4 hours.
The Piscina di Venere. Photo: Davide Mauro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Rent a kayak and go explore
If you prefer to explore the island on your own, rent a kayak! You can retrace the boat tour exploring promontories, caves, little coves, lava sea tunnels, and Venus’s pool.
Lipari
5. Take a walk through the Cave di Pomice
See Lipari’s geological heritage walking through the Cave di Pomice. It is a dramatic white-washed canyon made up of pumice stone.
The sea in front of the cave has a breathtaking turquoise color due to the color of the rocks.
The Cave di Pomice and it’s turqoise waters. Photo: Clemensfranz, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Go for a nighttime stroll on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II is Lipari’s main street, crossing the only proper city of the Aeolian islands. It is flanked by shops and restaurants.
Enjoy a late afternoon stroll, taste a gelato, and buy souvenirs to bring home. Then, sit for an aperitif or an early dinner at Eden Bar.
The city of Lipari (on Lipari island). Photo: Petr Vykoukal, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. A castle and an archaeological museum
The 15th-century castle lies on the acropolis, surrounded by fortifications. The area has been populated since the Neolithic era. The castle was built by the Spaniards to protect the population from the incursions of the pirate Barbarossa.
It includes three churches and hosts the archaeological museum Bernabò Brea which recounts the history of the Aeolian islands over time.
8. Enjoy the views at Quattrocchi
The Quattrocchi belvedere is your place to enjoy the best panorama over the islands. It is a postcard-pretty spot where you’ll take the best photos of your entire holiday.
It is considered the most beautiful viewpoint of the Aeolian Islands, and I agree! Quattrocchi means “four eyes” as two eyes are not enough!
The view from Belvedere Quattrocchi. Photo: ZioAngelo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Salina
1. Explore Salina by scooter
Exploring an Italian island by scooter is an unmissable thing to do! Salina is a good size and it is better explored on scooter than any other way. Following the coastal road, you’ll pass by villages, verdant vineyards, dramatic cliffs, and tiny churches.
Start from the main port, Santa Marina Salina (you can rent a scooter there), then head north to explore the prehistoric village Portella, the pleasant Malfa, and the quaint Pollara (stop on its beach). Proceeding east, stop to admire the stone arch Il Perciatino, then continue south and stop in Rinella to relax on its black volcanic sand beach.
Complete the tour at Lingua and stop at Alfredo's, where you can taste a fabulous Malvasia-flavoured granita. Also, try gelsi and prickly pear.
Feeling hungry? Do not miss the most famous pani cunzato of the Aeolian islands. It is a round piece of bread topped with fresh tomatoes, aubergines, capers, olives, anchovies, and sometimes also cheese.
Malfa, seen in the distance. Photo: Sebastian Fischer, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Hike up to Fossa delle Felci
Discover a natural reserve within an extinct volcano by hiking up to Fossa delle Felci. The path starts from the sanctuary of the Madonna del Terzito in Valdichiesa. Get there through the road that goes up from Rinella.
The route is well traced and the climb to the top takes approximately 2 hours. Remember to bring water and food because there is no way to get supplies along the way.
Up there, you can enjoy the lush vegetation inside the crater but also a spectacular view over the island and the nearby Panarea and Stromboli.
Photo: Paolinasca, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Catch the sunset at Pollara bay
Reach the crescent bay of Pollara at the end of the day to enjoy an aperitif at La Locanda del Postino, a film location for the 1994 movie The Postman, and see the most impressive sunset of the Aeolian Islands.
4. Join the Caper Festival
Salina is dotted with caper fields so do not miss the chance to taste them, especially cucunci (caperberries). On the first Sunday of June you can join the Caper Festival held on Piazzetta Sant’Onofrio in Pollara.
5. Taste the local Malvasia wine
Fenech Winery is in Malfa and is the perfect spot to sample the local wine. The owner himself welcomes you serving wines paired with an Aeolina salad with tomatoes, potatoes, capers, fresh herbs, and olives.
Do not miss the Malvasia but also try the grappa and the limoncello. Legend has it that Admiral Horatio Nelson was fond of this local sweet amber-colored wine.
Stromboli
1. Climb the lava-spewing volcano
The most epic thing to do while on Aeolian island is to climb a lava-spewing volcano. Stromboli is a quite reliable volcano and it puts on a show every evening, without exception, emitting giant plumes of red lava across the dark sky.
The hike takes 2 hours and leads you to a viewpoint 400 meters high. It is a moderately challenging yet brief hike. Remember to bring sturdy shoes. Alternatively, you can rent hiking boots on the spot. You can’t climb the volcano on your own, a guide is required. You can book here.
From up there, you can admire the show once the sun goes down and enjoy a burst of lava every 15 minutes or so. You will watch the show for about 90 minutes before hiking down in the dark with headlamps. Such an adventure!
Photo: Charles Engelke, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
2. See the lava show from offshore on a boat
If you don't feel like climbing the volcano, there is another way to enjoy the lava fountains from a boat. Boat trips leave from the main port or Ficogrande. They will stop just in front of the Sciara del Fuoco, a scree running along the island's northern flank.
A trip takes 90 minutes. Bear in mind that in summer it won’t be dark enough until 9 pm.
3. Dine with a (lava) view
Book a table at Osservatorio, a restaurant on a panoramic terrace halfway up the volcano, no earlier than 9 pm. Sit there, eat a pizza, sip your wine, and watch lava explosions at the same time.
You can walk up there (35 minutes from the coast) or take a free shuttle (a minivan). You can ask for a spot on the shuttle while booking a table.
4. Walk up to Sciara del Fuoco in Ginostra
If you’re staying in the village of Ginostra, you can hike up to 290 meters following a cobblestoned road up to a viewpoint over the Sciara del Fuoco. You can see the lava fountains and occasionally hot rocks rolling down to the sea.
It’s a 20-minute walk and you’ll come back in the dark, so don’t forget a flashlight.
Photo: stefan_fotos from Leipzig, Germany, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Panarea
1. Spend a lazy day on a boat
Panarea is better explored on a boat as many hidden beaches are only accessible from the sea. Furthermore, it is the best way to spot celebrities dropping their anchor around the island.
Stop at Basiluzzo, a smaller island next to Panarea. It is a large uninhabited rock but you can stop and swim along its jagged coast.
Photo: Carsten Steger, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Hike to Panarea’s prehistoric village
Apart from the celebrities, Panarea is a gorgeous, verdant island. Do not miss a walk along its verdant paths to reach a prehistoric village dating back to the Bronze Age. The hike takes about 45 minutes from the port.
Follow the signs to Cala Junco and reach Punta Milazzese, a peninsula hosting the village. It also offers a great view. Along the way, you can stop at Spiaggia Zimmari to take a refreshing dip.
The prehistoric village atop the cliffs. Photo: LellaViola, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Take a walk through San Pietro
San Pietro is Panarea’s port and its main hub. Do not miss a stroll around the tiny white houses with blue doors and windows. Get lost in its narrow streets flanked by gardens and terraces, olive trees, palm groves, and bougainvillea.
Do not miss the church of Saint Pietro dating back to the 19th century: Saint Pietro is the fishermen’s patron saint. From the church, you’ll have a great view of the sea.
San Pietro. Photo: Adam Butler from London, UK (www.adambutlerphotography.com), CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
4. Dive into Panarea’s nightlife
Panarea is the most glamorous Aeolian island and offers a vibrant nightlife. Stop at Banacalii Bar inside the Lisca Bianca hotel for an aperitif with a sea view, then spend the night dancing at Taya, the most famous club considered among the best outdoor nightclubs in Europe.
Alicudi & Filicudi
1. Feel the remoteness in Alicudi
Alicudi is the wildest island, with no roads, no electricity at night, and pristine nature. A real antidote to overtourism. Landing here is a leap into the past. Discover the island by walking along its mule paths. Reach the tiny church of San Bartolo passing through landscapes full of prickly pears and lush greenery.
You can also visit the island on a boat. Do not miss Scoglio Galera on the western side: it is a rock emerging from the sea that looks like the head of a dragon.
Alicudi. Photo: Carsten Steger, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Visit the library: 7000 books for 70 residents
A library on such a remote and wild island? Yes! It opened in 2017 on the western slope of the island thanks to a journalist who loved Alicudi and donated its collection to the island. There’s no address, you must count the steps of a mule track: the library is at step 357.
You can borrow the books or read them on the spot. The library houses 7000 books while the island is inhabited by 70 persons during winter (about 500 in summer).
3. Set off on a boat trip to the Lovers’ Cave
You can rent a boat at the port from a local fisherman or book a tour to circle the island and discover its treasures: unusual rock formations, lava tunnels, sea caves, and dramatic cliffs.
La Canna, for example, is a sea stack jutting out of the sea shaped like a cobra’s head. Stop at the Lovers’ Cave which is said to have fertility powers. Locals say "two enter, exit three"
La Canna. Photo: Salvo Cannizzaro, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Best beaches and swimming spots in the Aeolian Islands
Despite being islands, the Aeolian islands are not really a beach destination. If you want my advice, the best way to enjoy the sea here is to rent a boat.
Most of the Aeolian beaches are small and consequently often overcrowded, usually made of large pebbles, and rarely comfortable.
Nonetheless, here are some beaches to lie back and spend a lazy morning.
Vulcano
Sabbie Nere in Vulcano is a quite long stretch of volcanic sand. In summer it can get very crowded.
On the western side of the island, you can find Piscina Venere, Venus’s Pool, a natural pool with clear blue-green water.
Lipari
Spiaggia Bianca in Lipari has a pale-gray hue contrasting the blue-green water. The beach is caressed by calm waves.
You can also try to find a spot on Canneto beach, a longer but overcrowded beach.
Salina
Rinella beach on Salina offers calm teal water and small gray stones. It is perfect for families with kids.
Pollara is the most famous spot on the island, although it is not a proper beach. People sit on the rocks. It was the setting location of The Postman, a movie starring Massimo Troisi.
Alternatively, head to Punta Lingua, a small beach with rocks leading into the water. From there, you can see Lipari looming in the distance.
Stromboli
Spiaggia Lunga on Stromboli is probably the best beach around the islands. It is a black sand beach shining in the sun and lapped by blue waves.
Just off the northern coast of Stromboli lies the tiny island of Strombolicchio, good for swimming and snorkeling.
Panarea
Cala Junco in Panarea has a great view, but it is not an actual beach as it is mainly made of boulders.
Panarea also hosts a proper sandy beach called Spiaggia Zimmari. It is a long but narrow brown beach.
Filicudi
While on a boat trip around Filicudi, spot its Grotta del Bue Marino (a Blue Grotto), which you can swim into. Just be cautious because it takes a bit of effort to swim back to the boat against the tide.
Alicudi
Alicudi has a small gray pebble beach reachable on foot, right next to the port.
Wilder coves on the eastern side are accessible only by boat.
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