A Local’s Guide to Travel in Antibes, France
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Halfway between two world-famous Côte d'Azur towns (Nice and Cannes), Antibes is hardly less famous. Almost everyone in France knows it, and when you tell a Parisian that you're from Antibes, they're sure to point out that you have everything they don't: the sea, the sun, and the peace and quiet of an intimate town.
And while you might (correctly) think that all the towns along the Riviera benefit from its coastline and climate, Antibes is the one best known for its quality of life and for having retained its small-town charm despite the enormous amount of development and tourism along this stretch of coast.
It has the dynamism of Nice and the chic reputation of Cannes, but none of the natural flaws of the big cities. It's almost like living in a village: people know each other, they go to the same places and to the same market, and they stop one another on the street to stay hello and have a chat.
If you’re looking for the quaint Riviera of yesteryear, Antibes is about as close as you can get.
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Where is Antibes?
Antibes lies in the southeast of France, 35 miles from the border with Italy and about 570 miles south of Paris. Built on a cape offering uninterrupted views of both Nice and Cannes, it is also within easy reach of the mountains, valleys, and villages of the hinterland, which can be reached in just a short drive.
One of the reasons Antibes has been able to retain its charm so well is its excellent location: it's close to Cannes (7 miles to the west along the coast) and only slightly further from Nice (24 miles to the east).
This second city (Nice), the largest and most influential in the region, is therefore just close enough for Antibes to benefit from all of its assets, notably its airport, but also just far enough away to avoid becoming a sort of peripheral district of it.
Why visit
Antibes is a must for anyone visiting the region. In fact, you can't miss the town: its lighthouse dominates the bay, its fortress and fortifications can't go unnoticed.
Antibes is first and foremost a historic town: if I had to give just one reason for visiting, I'd have to choose between the quality of life I've already mentioned and the beauty of its historic centre. To discover its origins, you have to go back more than 2,300 years: Antipolis (as it was then called) was a city founded by the inhabitants of Marseille (then called Massilia), which was itself a Greek colony.
A few conquests and a few centuries later, Antibes became the last border town in south-eastern France, until Nice became part of France in 1860. This explains why the old town is surrounded by fortifications and dominated by one of its most emblematic monuments: the Fort Carré.
Although Antibes was at the forefront of luxury tourism at the beginning of the 20th century, and then managed to attract the masses as well, it has never forgotten its roots and has stayed true to its core identity: today, people come to Antibes (and in particular to the Juan-les-Pins district - let me explain this nuance later) for its jazz festival, its casino, its nightclubs, and all-around luxury, but they also come for its calm and beauty, two things that the arrival of enormous tourism has not been able to change.
How to get here
As mentioned above, Antibes is very convenient located, and it’s therefore well served by various transportation options.
From other towns in the Riviera, the coastal train will take you here in just a matter of minutes and for only a few euros.
If you’re coming from Italy, Antibes is situated on the only direct and easily accessed crossing between the two countries, so both roads and trains will take you right here quickly and easily.
And as I mentioned above, Antibes is about 20 miles from Nice, meaning that the Nice Côte D’Azur airport is an excellent entry point for anyone arriving from elsewhere in Europe, France, or further afield.
Arriving by air
If you come by plane, you’ll likely arrive into Nice’s airport, which is served by multiple direct daily flights to/from Paris as well as other destinations throughout France, Europe, and all over the world.
To continue on to Antibes, you can take either Bus 200, which passes right by the airport and stops in Antibes, or the train, which makes a stop at Nice Saint-Augustin Station (just a few minutes’ walk from the airport).
Both the bus and train run frequently all throughout the day so you’ll never have to wait long for your onward travel. Tickets cost a few euros.
Alternatively, flying into Marseille is also an option, as that city’s airport has connections with cities throughout Europe and across the world. The onward travel to Antibes is a bit longer, but there are many daily trains traveling from Marseille to Antibes, so you will never struggle to reach the city.
You’ll first need to catch a train/shuttle from the airport to the Marseille St-Charles train station, and will then transfer to a train headed for Antibes. The journey will take around 3 hours in total and costs about 50 euros one way.
Arriving by train
Antibes is linked directly to Paris, by high-speed train, with frequent daily departures from morning until evening. The journey takes between 5 and 6 hours and one-way tickets usually cost around $100 USD.
You’ll also find regular train service from Lyon, Marseille (as mentioned above), and Nice, as well as all of the towns along the French Riviera.
Arriving from Italy
If your wanderings have taken you first to the Italian side of the riviera, it couldn’t be any easier to get here: there is a direct train to Antibes from Ventimiglia, the Italian border town, which takes only an hour.
There’s also a well maintained highway, which makes driving here from Italy (also an hour), a breeze.
Transportation and getting around
Once you’ve arrived into Antibes and the Riviera more generally, your transport options are quite varied. All the major cities and towns along the coast are connected by train, with regular service traveling between them all throughout the day. If you’re mostly planning to stick to the main towns, the train is extremely convenient and quite affordable.
There are also buses that will take you to some smaller towns both on and off the coast, but these don’t always run very frequently, so if you’re relying on them for a daily itinerary with multiple stops, you will lose a lot of time.
So, if you want to get up into the hinterland to visit little villages away from the coast (some of which are splendid), or if you want to hop around to the beaches outside of the cities, you will really need to have your own car.
For more information on travel and transportation, see the “how to get around” section in our French Riviera travel guide.
Renting a car
For the most selection of cars and companies, you’ll want to rent your car in either Nice or Marseille, which have the widest selection of cars and companies. If you want to save some money, be sure to look at rentals in either cities’ centers rather than at just the airports (which is often more expensive).
Antibes also has rental offices, as do Cannes, Saint-Tropez (though very few), Sainte Maxime (also very few), and a few other towns, but the supply is much more limited.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
When to visit
Antibes is renowned for its summer vibrancy. Or rather, Juan-les-Pins, Antibes’ more modern and much more chic side of town (it was once a neighboring town but has now become a district of Antibes), is really what’s known for that. Juan-les-Pins is also very beautiful, mostly because it's so green (Pins means Pines - like Pine trees).
So, in summer, it's easy to come and enjoy the evenings in Juan-les-Pins, which has become one of the most popular meeting places for local young people. If it's partying you're after, then there's no need to hesitate: come from June to August.
But the locals will all tell you that summer is not the best time to be here. That’s because for those of us who live in hot areas (like Antibes and the wider Riviera), we know that the most pleasant time is the shoulder season - right before or right after summer -, when it's warm enough to dress lightly and go swimming, but not so hot that you get crushed by the heat.
What's more, in summer, you'll have to deal with huge crowds of visitors as well as a substantial increase in prices, particularly for hotels.
So, what does this boil down to? Well, if you're looking for the festive Antibes, come in summer and enjoy the nights in Juan-les-Pins and the old town.
If you want to lift the veil and discover the real Antibes, come in late spring or early fall (April, May, or September), when the weather is milder and Antibes has once again become that small town on a human scale, where people like to stroll along the seafront, do their shopping, and grab a coffee with friends.
And if you come in winter, you certainly won't be swimming or hitting the beach, but you'll enjoy seeing authentic local life much more. You can still go out in the evening and the town certainly doesn’t “shut down”, but everyone is back to work, the children are at school, and life returns to its normal rhythm. It’s quite pleasant.
In winter, the weather can be chilly, but it’s rarely cold, and the days are still mostly sunny.
How long to spend
Antibes is small and you can easily see all of it in a day trip, but I don’t think that’s the right way to visit this place. Rather, it’s best to have two days here, spending at least one night in the city.
Here’s the itinerary that I’d suggest:
Day 1
When you arrive in Antibes, take the time to wander around the old town and the harbor (the two are next to each other). Don't miss the old citadel (the upper part of the old town, not to be confused with Fort Carré) and the ramparts overlooking the sea.
If it's market day, then visit the market: it's held every day except Monday on the Cours Masséna, near the ramparts. What's more, you'll find lovely places to have lunch all over the area.
In the afternoon, you could head to the other end of the port to visit the Fort Carré, or enjoy a moment of relaxation on one of the beaches on the other side of the old town.
Day 2
It's time for a long walk along the seafront. You can't go to Antibes without doing the Cap tour, which is one of the locals' favorite walks. It will take you at least two hours, will probably use up most of your morning.
Along your stroll, you can have a picnic by the water and go for a swim, as the coastline is wild almost everywhere on the Cape.
At the end of your walk, you'll come to the exceedingly chic district of Juan-les-Pins, which makes for a very impressive visit. So grab lunch in Juan-les-Pins and then, in the afternoon, you'll probably want to stay in the shade for a while: this could be the opportunity to visit the exceptional Picasso museum.
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Where to stay
As with all the popular towns in the French Riviera, you’ll find many charming (and expensive) hotels here.
La Marjolaine - In Juan-les-Pins, the most chic (but least quaint) part of town, La Marjolaine is my favorite, because this small family-run establishment is quiet, very beautiful - with lovely Belle-Epoque architecture -, and very well located, just a stone's throw from the beach and restaurants.
Le Collier - In Antibes, Le Collier is a well-known address, as it is very well located near the train station and has a beautiful view over the old town.
The La Villa chain: When it comes to luxury and “farniente”, there are several addresses vying for the best reputation. The three hotels belonging to the La Villa chain in Antibes and Juan-les-Pins offer top-quality service, with a spa, swimming pool, and more. They are also fairly affordable by Riviera standards, so offer good value for very nice accommodations
Baie des Angles Thalazur - Even more chic is the Baie des Anges Thalazur hotel, which specializes in wellness and boasts superb views from its gourmet restaurant.
Belles Rives hotel and Cap d'Antibes Beach hotel, both in Juan-les-Pins and right on the water's edge down by the marina, are probably the most famous in this part of town, but in general, Juan-les-Pins is where you’ll find the most chic hotels.
Whichever hotel you choose, be careful if you come during the tourist season: if it's on a noisy street, you could be in for a bad night's sleep.
What to see and do
Here are a few must-sees to make the most of Antibes and its special features:
1. Explore the old town
Unmissable and bucolic - that’s how I would describe the historic center of Antibes. So when visiting, always take the time to explore the sometimes tiny streets of the old town, letting yourself simply get lost.
From the port, for example, you can walk up towards the citadel and ramparts, then wander down the narrow streets to Place Nationale and Place des Martyrs de la Résistance, where you can once again lose yourself in the friendly streets and discover the flower-decorated houses and various stalls and shops.
After a bit of wandering, you'll find that you'll soon find your bearings and will be able to navigate around the narrow, crisscrossing streets like any other local.
2. Enjoy the nights of Juan-les-Pins
Every evening in summer and at weekends in winter, Juan-les-Pins becomes one big party. You can dine in one of the many restaurants, then spend the evening in a nightclub, at the casino, or by the sea, just as many locals do.
Jauns-Les-Pins, seen from the Cap d’Antibes. Photo: Ameilland, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Visit the Fort Carré
This 16th-century star-shaped fortress with a rampart walkway over 100 feet high, offers panoramic views over Antibes, the harbor, the bay, and out over the coastline all around. Originally built as a defense to guard against potential incursions from neighboring Nice (which was under Italian rule at the time), its strategic importance was diminished after 1860, when Nice became a part of France.
The fort’s grounds encompass about 10 acres, much of which are nicely manicured gardens with a good display of typical Mediterranean flora.
There are tours every half hour, and the team of municipal employees who deliver them mostly speak English and are always very interesting and friendly. It's a pleasant walk along the harbor reach the fort as well.
Photo: Plyd, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Relax on the beaches
Naturally, some time on the beach is a given when in Antibes. The two most popular beaches are the Plage du Ponteil and Sali, both found at the Port de la Salis (a tiny harbor for small sailing boats - no yachts). Shallow, sandy beaches, they’re perfect for lounging and are well suited for children.
You can also swim in various little spots that are accessible right at the foot of the ramparts in the old town, a few of which are little beaches, while others are just rocky sections where you can set down a towel and dive in.
La Gravette beach, which is partially shaded by the ramparts depending on the time of day, is a sandy little beach that’s protected from the wind and has very calm water.
On the eastern side of town, the stretch of coast running between La Brague and Fort Carré is pebbly rather than sandy, and these beaches get deeper much more quickly.
All these areas are public: the private beaches, which offer restaurants, loungers, umbrellas, and other amenitiesh are closer to Juan-les-Pins.
A bit further out, on the western side of the Cap d'Antibes (towards Juans-les-Pins), you’ll find more wild and secluded beaches, perfect for a quiet swim away from the crowds. Here, it’s a mix of private and public beaches.
Strangely enough, the most bucolic beaches are also to be found in the very fashionable Juan-les-Pins, but to find them you have to stray a little way from the heart of the town: follow the coastline for less than a mile towards Le Cap, past the marina and fishing port.
Here you'll find a succession of tiny public beaches that are particularly popular with the locals. The place is green and calm (if there aren't too many swimmers), and it’s a chance to discover a little of the region's natural tranquillity.
5. Shop at the Provençal market
Every morning (except Monday) on the Cours Masséna, in the heart of the old town, the Provençal Market is a bustling hub of activity and local commerce. Local fish, cheeses, charcuterie, fruit and vegetables, cut flowers, lots of local tapas (there are so many more ways than you’d have thought to prepare olives...), crafts, etc., are all sold here.
It's a market visited daily by the people of Antibes and it’s a great place to shop.
6. Check out the museums
If you love art, then the Picasso museum, beside the sea and atop the city ramparts, is a must. The artist spent some time in Antibes, so the town has a fine collection of his work.
Alternatively, if you prefer history, then head next door to the small but excellent Musée d'Archéologie.
Photo: Clemensfranz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Tour the Cape - the Cap d’Antibes
In my opinion, this is the activity not to be missed. Bring a snack or picnic and some water. From the old town, head down to the Port de la Salis, then take the Boulevard de Bacon, which is itself a bucolic little road along the seafront.
From here, there are two possible routes: the short and the long. For the short route, all you have to do is follow the seafront road. For the longer route, you'll have to leave this road when you reach the Garoupe beach (the signs indicate everything) to take the "real" coastal path, which is totally pedestrianized and very wild.
Allow two hours for short option and four for the longer one. I highly recommend doing the full walk, as the serenity, views, and atmosphere are well worth the effort.
If you prefer an even shorter walk, at the very least, from Juan-les-Pins, follow the coastline in the direction of Le Cap and the small beaches that precede it. The walk along the two small ports of Antibes is a pleasure and you will enjoy a magnificent view over Cannes. You can turn back at any time, continue on to Antibes, or start walking up the narrow streets to the lighthouse.
An aerial view over the Cap d’Antibes, stretching out from Antibes. Photo: Olivier Cleynen, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Climb up to the lighthouse of la Garoupe
The views of the surrounding coastline from the lighthouse are among the finest in the area. You can get there on foot or by car, passing through the residential area at the base of the hill atop which the lighthouse sits.
But a local trick is to take the Chemin du Calvaire, a very discreet access situated at the end of the Plage de la Salis, just before getting onto the road that goes around the Cap d’Antibes.
I know those instructions may be a little confusing, so just ask passers-by when you get to that area: they'll point you in the right direction. Once at the lighthouse, be sure to visit the chapel: you'll be amazed by its interior decoration, with dozens of sailors' votive offerings.
Looking down on Antibes from the lighthouse. Photo: Ameilland, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. Take a walk in the pinèdes
This is what we call the pine-planted parks of Juan-les-Pins (hence the name “Pins” - Pines). Small but cosy, they're a great place to cool off in summer, play a game of petanque, or take a stroll with the kids. It's a little slice of Provençal life, suspended in time.
10. Discover the Belle-Epoque art of living in Juan-les-Pins
Juan-les-Pins is home to dozens of luxurious villas, many of which date back to the 19th century. The best known and one of the most beautiful is the Villa Eilenroc, which is open to the public.
Its remarkable architecture and lush gardens (including a magnificent rose garden) are all the more famous for having served as the backdrop for numerous films, one of the latest being Downton Abbey: A New Era. And admission costs... two euros.
The Villa Eilenroc. Photo: Abxbay, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Restaurants and dining
In Antibes, you are spoiled for choice with all the excellent restaurants in the old town. The narrow streets offer plenty of intimate traditional establishments, while you'll find a wide variety of international cuisines on the Promenade de l'Amiral de Grasse, located on the boundary between the old town and the port.
For Provençal food, Chez Mô is one of the best-known addresses, just a stone's throw from the old town towards Cap d'Antibes, facing the sea.
Two chic, well-known restaurants that I quite like are La Tour Antique (Italian), which sits atop the city’s ramparts and, a little further away, La Maison de Bacon (fish specialities) is located on the road to Cap d'Antibes.
On the Juan-les-Pins side, I always go for lunch in two small family restaurants pleasantly situated between two pinèdes: the Congrès - run by a Vietnamese couple and their children - and, just next door, the Provence Café, a typical local brasserie serving French cuisine.
For a more coastal atmosphere, you can also opt for a beach restaurant. They all have their nice qualities, but I prefer Ruban Bleu because of its festive atmosphere and friendly staff.
Across from the beach, there are literally dozens of other options. Among them, I have a habit of going to the Cap Riviera: chic but very welcoming, with a very high quality of service and a dining room overlooking the beach.
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