A Local’s Guide to Travel in Cantabria, Spain
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Until not too many decades ago, the region of Cantabria, in the far north of Spain, was known as “La Montaña” (the Mountain), and still today, its inhabitants are often referred to as “montañeses”, or mountaineers. That should tell you quite a bit about this little green part of Spain, but don’t be fooled: Cantabria is more than just mountains.
All along its northern border is the Cantabrian sea, which bathes the entire north of Spain, from Galicia in the west to the French border in the east. During Roman times, they named the sea in honor of the Cantabrian people, and its kept the name ever since.
The Cantabrian coast is filled with pleasant historic towns and is dotted by gorgeous beaches, some wide and extensive, others tucked away in hidden little coves. This coastal area and its villages are usually the preferred destination for most tourists, who relax on the beaches during the day and then enjoy the lively atmosphere in the cities in the evening.
But if you head inland, you’ll quickly find something very different: within just an hour’s drive from the coast, are mountains 2,500 meters high (almost 8,000 feet), where you can experience some of the best hiking, mountaineering, and road cycling in all of Spain. This part of the region is far less visited, and it’s a remote, isolated place that’s perfect for getting away from busy daily life.
If Cantabria is known for anything, it’s just this: the fusion of sea and mountains, an unparalleled mix not found anywhere else in Europe.
Despite being the smallest region in northern Spain, Cantabria offers a great diversity of attractions and activities, from beaches, to elegant cities, and mountains to remote plains where you can spend days hardly seeing another person.
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Cantabria is one of Spain’s least-visited regions, so let the world’s loss be your gain!
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Why visit? What is Cantabria like?
Photo: Adbar, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Cantabria, and really all of northern Spain, is a part of the country where cities and urban life take a backseat to nature. Here, the main draw is the coastline, the mountains, and the forests, not the cities and towns. For the most part, you come to Cantabria to escape modern life and get lost in undisturbed nature, far from the crowds.
However, there is one exception to that rule: Santander, the region’s capital city and one of the urban jewels of northern Spain. Bathed by the waters of the Cantabrian Sea and built up around the magnificent Sardinero Beach, Santander is Cantabria’s San Sebastián, and it’s a place that strongly evokes the Belle Époque era and gives the sensation of being in a grand city back in the 19th century.
With a wealth of stately architecture and incredible urban beaches, Santander is famous throughout Spain for its aristocratic atmosphere.
Heading out along the coast from the capital, you’ll find lovely, undeveloped beaches and a string of charming and historic coastal towns, with Santoña, known above all for its salted anchovies, being the highlight.
Moving inland to the south, you quickly enter a land of high mountains, valleys, and forests. Much of this part of the region is largely unvisited, especially by international tourists, but a few destinations such as Potes - the gateway to the Picos de Europa mountains -, the the Liébana Valley, and the Altamira Caves - perhaps the most important prehistoric archaeological site in Western Europe -, are squarely on the tourist map.
You’ll also find some impressive and worthwhile sights among the interior’s lesser known areas, many of them linked to religion and mythology. For instance, dating back to the time when Cantabria, along with Asturias, was one of the strongholds in the Christians' struggle against the Arabs, the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana is a must-visit sight.
And in the region of Garabandal, 4 schoolgirls were said to have seen an apparition of the Virigin Mary in the 1950’s.
Where is Cantabria?
Photo: TUBS, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cantabria, in the far north of Spain, is one of the 17 autonomous communities that make up the Spanish state. A small triangular territory, it is snugly nestled between the Cantabrian sea to the north, Asturias to the west, the Basque Country to the east, and Castilla-León to the south.
The region’s capital, Santander, is about 460 kilometers north of Madrid, and can be reached in about 4.5 hours by car or train.
Urban Cantabria revolves around the sea, and that’s where you’ll find Santander, and the regions other most prominent and populous towns. Those include, from east to west, Castro Urdiales, Laredo, Santoña, El Astillero, Torrelavega, Suances, Comillas, and San Vicente de la Barquera.
Geographically, Cantabria can effectively be divided into three distinct subregions:
The Marina, which is the stretch of coast where the capital, Santander, is located, as well as the other historical and most-visited towns: Torrelavega, Castro Urdiales, Santoña, Laredo, and San Vicente de la Barquera.
Heading inland, we have the area of La Montaña, which includes the Picos de Europa mountains and other remote parts of the Cantabrian Mountain Range, such as the Sierra de Peña Labra and the Sierra del Escudo.
And finally, in the south of Cantabria, there is the Campoo area, which begins in the southern foothills of the Cantabrian mountains and is more of a plateau, actually quite similar to central Spain, and much drier and more arid than the rest of Cantabria and the north.
How to get here
Arriving by car
Cantabria, much like its neighboring regions of Asturias and the Basque Country, boasts excellent connectivity with the rest of Spain, particularly by road. The A-8 motorway, which spans the entire northern coast of Spain from San Sebastián (Basque Country) to A Coruña (Galicia), traverses Cantabria from east to west along its coastal strip, linking all its major towns and cities.
Additionally, if you’ll be arriving from Madrid, the A-67 highway connects Santander to Spain’s capital city in just 4.5 hours of easy, pleasant driving.
Arriving by bus
If you’ll be relying on public transportation to get here and around, the ALSA bus company is your best bet. ALSA offers frequent connections between Madrid and Santander, with multiple departures every day, starting in the morning and running through the evening. One-way tickets usually range from 40 to 100 euros and can be purchased in advance online or at the bus station. Always book in advance for cheaper rates.
ALSA also operates a route along the coastal A-8 road, with frequent services linking all the bigger seaside cities and towns of the region.
If coming from elsewhere in northern Spain, ALSA is again the best option for public transportation, and they connect Santander frequently with regional hubs such as Santiago de Compostela, A Coruña, Oviedo, Gijón, San Sebastian, and Bilbao (among others).
Arriving by train
Cantabria is not very well served by train, and you won’t have train travel as an option for getting around much of the region. However, Santander is connected with Madrid, and there is at least one train per day (and up to 3) traveling between the two cities.
The direct journey (no changes requires) takes just under 5 hours and tickets cost rom about 40 euros. You can see timetables and fares on the RENFE website, Spain’s national rail carrier.
If you’ll be taking the train to Cantabria from elsewhere in Spain, you will almost certainly have to make a transfer in Madrid and then continue on to Santander.
Booking tickets: you can of course always book direct with the service provider, but if you want to check timetables, prices, and compare all your options in one place, the aggregator site Omio is super convenient.
Arriving by air
Beyond highways and bus lines, Santander also has a small international airport, Seve Ballesteros Airport (named after Spain’s greatest golfer) that serves a few other European countries but has many connections with domestic destinations throughout Spain.
Flights are mostly provided by budget airlines and tickets are often quite inexpensive, so this can be a convenient way to reach Cantabria if you’re coming from far away in Spain.
Transportation and how to get around
As I’ve mentioned above, much of the allure of Cantabria is in the nature that you’ll find here, and as with anywhere in the the world, if you want to get out into remote natural areas, you need to have a car.
Renting a car
If you have your own vehicle, you’ll be able to explore every corner of the Picos de Europa, the Pasiego Valleys, the remote Campoo area, as well as the beaches and all the coastal towns between Santander and Bilbao, all of which are places beyond the reach of the local train/public transit network.
If you want to rent a car while in Cantabria, you should definitely plan on picking it up in Santander where you have by far the largest selection. If you’re coming from elsewhere in Northern Spain, you’ll find car rental agencies in all decent-sized cities, at any international airport, and at most busy train stations.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
Bus
However, if you plan to make Santander your primary base for your visit to this region, and you mostly intend to hop between the other coastal cities and towns, you will be perfectly fine relying on public bus.
For that, you’ll have two options: local city buses for short distance trips within a city or to the sights in their immediate vicinity, and the medium-distances buses operated by Alsa, the company mentioned above, which connect all those cities and towns.
Train
While there is a small, affordable & comfortable train line in Cantabria, the destinations that you can reach by rail travel are very limited. However, there are a few interesting places on the line, such as the Altamira Caves, Torrelavega, and Cabezón de la Sal.
Best time to visit
In northern Spain, storms, winds, and rain - along with snow in the mountains - are common occurrences for basically eight months of the year, from October through May. That means that almost any time you choose to come here, you will have to be prepared for potentially unpleasant weather that may alter your sightseeing plans.
Summer - the best time to visit
However, this rule doesn’t really hold true during the summer months of June, July, August, and September, which is the period with by far the best weather in Cantabria. During these 3-4 months, the temperatures are pleasantly warm but almost never excessive, you will have sunshine most days, and daylight hours are at their longest throughout the year.
All of this means that you can enjoy long, pleasant days on the beach, hiking in the mountains, or exploring the cities, without the constant threat of rain.
There is a downside to a summertime visit though: the beach towns along the Cantabrian coast - such as Castro Urdiales, Laredo, or San Vicente de la Barquera - all become overcrowded, with their normal populations multiplying by five or even ten. Basques and Madrileños flock to these beaches, claiming them for themselves and leaving little space for others.
The energy and atmosphere can be fun during this time, but the prices for everything shoots up, lots of accommodation sells out, and the region loses some of its “off the beaten path” appeal.
Spring and Autumn - more questionable weather but no crowds
If you want to escape the crowds and are willing to risk encountering worse weather, both spring and autumn can be great times to visit Cantabria.
From Santander to the Picos de Europa and along all the beaches of the Cantabrian Sea, the region will be free from Basque and Madrileño tourists, and life slows down, returning to its local, unhurried, and welcoming state.
In early fall and late spring especially, the weather should still be pretty pleasantly warm, the days are long enough, and outdoor activities shouldn’t be overly hampered by rain. The chances of inclement weather will certainly increase when compared to the summer, but it’s a necessary tradeoff for the tranquility and improved atmosphere.
Visiting in winter - better not to
Unless you like cold, overcast, rainy days for your vacations, the winter is probably not the ideal time for you to visit Cantabria.
The only exception to this is if you’re looking to partake in winter sports in the mountains, which will have plenty of snow during these months. Other than that though, you’re really best choosing a different time to come here.
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How long to spend
Cantabria is the smallest region among the four that make up the northern coast of Spain, and considering this and the fact that nearly everything in the Cantabrian territory is within easy reach of the capital, Santander, I believe that anywhere from four days to a week, is sufficient time to explore the most important parts of the region.
If you opt for a four-day visit, this will give you time to see Santander, take a road trip to some of the other cities and towns along the coast, check out the Altamira cave, and get a quick introduction to the Picos de Europa.
Here’s how I’d suggest spending your 4 days:
Dedicate the first day to exploring Santander, which will likely serve as your base for visits elsewhere in Cantabria. In the city, take a stroll from Sardinero Beach to the historic center, visit the Palace of La Magdalena and the Centro Botín, and then treat yourself to a delightful dinner and evening in the Puertochico neighborhood.
On the following day, head about 30 minutes west to visit the Altamira Cave complex and the nearby historic town of Santillana del Mar. Altamira is where. in 1868, some of the oldest European prehistoric cave art, dating back to 36,000 years ago, was discovered.
Access to the original cave is very restricted, but there is a very impressive replica that’s still worth checking out. Not far away are the El Castillo and Las Monedas caves, both of which also boast impressive cave art.
After checking out the caves, head over to Santillana del Mar, which is a lovely medieval village and spend the night there.
On your third day, embark on a scenic drive through the coastal towns of Cantabria, starting in Costa Quebrada and passing through Suances, Comillas, and San Vicente de la Barquera.
Then, your final day in Cantabria could be dedicated to exploring La Hermida Gorge, a gateway to the Picos de Europa mountains. Spend the evening in the charming mountain town of Potes after a busy day outside.
If you prefer to extend your visit, which I think you should, the options are varied. If you're a fan of beaches and the coast, you can add in visits to the towns of Castro Urdiales and Laredom on the region’s eastern coast.
Or, if you're inclined towards a more cultural visit, use your added days to explore the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana, and then head into mountains, using Potes as your base to explore the most scenic parts of the Picos de Europa.
Where to stay - best bases
Santander
For almost everyone visiting Cantabria, Santander, with a population of 170,000, is the perfect base. Why? Because it has it all: it’s a gorgeous city in its own right and has more than enough attractions and excitement to keep you busy for a couple of days just exploring the city itself. That it was a former summer home for the Spanish royal family should really tell you all you need to know about its appeal.
Add in that it has one of the nicest urban beaches in all of Spain - El Sardinero Beach -, gorgeous old architecture, all the amenities you'd expect from the capital city of a region, and close proximity and great connections by bus or train to other points of interest, and there’s just nowhere better to stay for a few days.
If you're into beaches, Santander is near Costa Quebrada, one of the most spectacular stretches of the Cantabrian coast. And just a 30-minute drive away (or an hour by bus or train) are great towns like San Vicente de la Barquera, Santillana del Mar, or Suances. You’re also within easy reach of the famous Altamira Caves.
So, if you want to explore Cantabria from just one destination, Santander is the place for you.
Potes
Now, I said above that Santander is the perfect base for almost every visitor to Cantabria, but of course, there are exceptions. Well, if seeing the big city and coastal towns/beaches isn’t what you’re after, but rather, you prefer to get out into the mountains, then Potes, one of the gateways to the Picos de Europa, awaits you.
A charming town nestled among the Cantabrian mountains, Potes is a favorite destinations for hikers, climbers, cyclists, and families seeking mountain vacations. Just an hour and a half away from Santander, and with everything you need for a few days’ stay, Potes is the places to be if you’re after an active vacation in nature.
San Vicente de la Barquera, Laredo, and Castro Urdiales
If you want to get away from the city but would rather hit the beach than spend your days secluded in the mountains, the three coastal towns above can be a lot of fun.
I think San Vicente de la Barquera makes the best base out of the three of them as it's a beautiful town, perhaps one of the prettiest in Spain, and while it may not offer the diverse options of a city like Santander, it does provide a complete range of resources and amenities for even a week-long vacation. Plus, it's just a stone's throw away from the best beach in Cantabria: Berellín Beach.
Another option, if you want to be closer to the Basque Country, is to try the coastal towns of Laredo and Castro Urdiales as your base, both of which are near excellent beaches and have lovely landscapes and scenery around them. Just be cautious: as I mentioned earlier, during the summer, their populations can swell by five or even ten times their normal size.
Best places to visit
It's no easy task to narrow down twelve must-visit places in Cantabria, especially if you have enough time to explore. But I'll give it a shot. Here's my list of essentials:
1. Santander
Playa del Camello in Santander. Photo: Tiia Monto, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Santander is a must-visit on your Cantabria journey, not only because it's the capital of the region, but also for everything that it offers a traveler spending their vacation days in this city. This is an aristocratic city filled with Belle Epoque architecture and a refined atmosphere. When here, start things off with a stroll along the entire waterfront of the city, from Sardinero beach to the historic center. Stop at all the bars you can, order some typical calamari "rabas," and just keep walking.
Visit the magnificent Magdalena Palace out on the city’s headland. Explore the stunning Santander Cathedral. And, to top it off, treat yourself to a meal at the Marucho restaurant.
Be sure to also visit the seaside Centro Botín art space, where you can spend hours exploring the exhibitions and artwork. Right nearby, head over to Somo beach, one of the surging meccas along the Cantabrian sea.
2. The Costa Quebrada
The Dunas de Liencres y Estuario del Pas along the Costa Quebrada. Photo: AnaisGoepner, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
But wait, there's more just outside of Santander. If you still want to do more without venturing too far from the Cantabrian capital, my recommendation is to take your car, public transportation, or even walk - it's only 10 kilometers after all and the walk is beautiful - to the Costa Quebrada.
This stretch of coastline just west of Santander is a feast for the eyes, filled with coves, cliffs, movie-worthy islets, and shores that seem sculpted by an artist.
The impressive rock formations that have taken shape on this stretch of the Cantabrian coast are called flysch in geology, and they're the result of millions and millions of years of microorganisms accumulating in layers on top of the rock. I promise you, it's hard to see something like this anywhere else in the world.
3. Altamira Cave
Ancient art in the great hall of the cave. Photo: Museo de Altamira y D. Rodríguez, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Known as the Sistine Chapel of Prehistory, the Altamira Caves, located in the municipality of Santillana del Mar, a half-hour drive from Santander, are one of Cantabria’s greatest sights. The cave system and the ancient art that it holds are undoubtedly one of the most important cultural sights in Western Europe.
Discovered in 1868 by an Asturian shepherd who had emigrated to Cantabria, the Altamira Caves contain the most significant pictorial and artistic cycles (sequential series of paintings/art) of prehistory, a collection that leaves one breathless after learning that these are works over well over 10,000 years old.
The only problem with visiting the Altamira Caves is that it's very difficult to get in. Only five visitors are allowed per week, and the visit must be requested in advance. This is done through the website of the Ministry of Culture of the Government of Spain.
If you can’t get in, there’s still a replica that you can visit, and for other cave art, El Castillo and Las Monedas caves, both of which are very nearby, have impressive ancient art and scenery.
4. Laredo
I've mentioned it several times throughout this article, but Laredo, on the eastern coast of Cantabria, is one of the region’s seaside towns that gets overwhelmed in the summer by Basque and Madrileño tourists. The population here quintuples during the summer, making it a bit too crowded and busy. However, the crowds come for a reason:
And that reason is that Laredo is nestled in a wonderful environment, with the mountains of the Cantabrian range directly behind it and the largest beach in Cantabria right in front: Salvé Beach, which stretches out over 4.25 kilometers. Immediately following it is Regatón Beach, which continues on another 3.9 kilometers.
But, in addition to sand and surf, Laredo offers you many more attractions, with the cuisine at the forefront. After a day at the beach and in the sun, there's nothing like relaxing with a good wine and Cantabrian fish at El Faro Bar-Restaurant, a local favorite. Try it, and trust me: you won't regret it.
5. Cabezón de la Sal
Sequoia trees found near Cabezón de la Sal
Cabezón de la Sal is a historical crossroads for Cantabrians, as it was here that the road to Asturias and the west and the road to Castile and Madrid to the south, converged and diverged. Having been an important crossing point for centuries, this lovely town has a beautiful historic center, with little alleyways and medieval buildings.
Moreover, right next to Cabezón de la Sal is a spectacular natural area: the Sequoias of Monte Cabezón, a Protected Natural Space of the Government of Cantabria that occupies 2.5 hectares of mountain terrain. The history of these sequoia trees, a very rare species in Spain, is curious: they were planted during the Francoist dictatorship as a method to ensure timber supply in Cantabria.
No longer used in forestry or for building materials, they are now a relic of the past and an attraction for anyone who wants to see sequoias without having to travel to California.
6. Visit Ruente for their Cocido Montañés (mountain stew)
Photo: Javierme Javier Mediavilla Ezquibela, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Every Spanish region, especially in the north of the country, where winters are cold and rainy, has its own hearty dish. Something filling that serves to warm the body and keep those who work the land or at sea (increasingly fewer every year) going strong. Well, in Cantabria, that dish is the "cocido montañés", a mountain stew that must be tried at El Ciclo restaurant, in the town of Ruente, just 7 kilometers from Cabezón de la Sal.
The main ingredients of "cocido montañés" are white beans and kale, and to this base is added chorizo, ribs, black pudding, and bacon. Unlike the majority of Spanish stews, the soup and ingredients are not separated, but are instead eaten together all at once.
Sounds tasty, right? If you’d like to reserve a spot at El Ciclo, here's the restaurant's website.
7. La Hermida Gorge in the Picos de Europa
Photo: AnaisGoepner, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
If the Picos de Europa are Spain's most spectacular mountains, then the gateway to this stunning terrain is even more impressive. Because if you come from the Cantabrian coast and want to access the region's mountain ranges, the only option is through the N-621 road, and therefore, through La Hermida Gorge.
Traveling for 21 kilometers of steep, narrow gulley carved into the mountains by the Deva River, this is a spectacular, enclosed, claustrophobic landscape… a pleasure for the senses.
There are two ways to explore this gorge, the longest in Spain. The first is the easy way: via the aforementioned N-621 road on the way to the town of Potes from the Cantabrian coast. The other is more challenging but also more enjoyable: park your car in the village of La Hermida and then set out on the `12-kilometer loop trail that runs through part of the gorge. After a hard workout, it’s a delight to relax in the thermal waters of the Deva River. Here's a very comprehensive guide for all of this.
8. Potes
Photo: Rodelar, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
If you've made it to La Hermida Gorge, it's likely because you're on your way to Potes, the capital of the Picos de Europa and the Liébana region, the most mountainous in all of Cantabria. This picturesque village of just over 1,300 inhabitants is a reference point for mountain lovers across the Iberian peninsula because from here you can access the highlights of the Picos - such as Sotres, the Naranjo de Bulnes, or Fuente Dé.
The best thing about Potes, however, is that it's not just a pass-through. Among its alleyways, you can get lost exploring for an entire afternoon, sampling local cider and beers, stronger liquors, and Asturian and Cantabrian dishes.
And for anyone feeling very brave, you can take a dip in the very same Deva River that later forms La Hermida Gorge.
9. Santo Toribio de Liébana
Photo: Francisco J. Díez Martín, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
One of the most important Christian centers in the world is just a few kilometers from Potes: it's the Franciscan monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana. With historical roots dating back to the time when the first Asturian and Cantabrian rebels fought against the Arab invasion of the Peninsula, this monastery of Gothic and Romanesque styles is one of the most interesting cultural stops in the Picos de Europa area.
According to legend, it is in this monastery where the Lignum Crucis is housed, the largest piece still preserved from the cross on which Christ died. Whether you're a believer or not, the visit is interesting in any case.
10. Reinosa and the source of the Ebro river
The source of the Rio Ebro. Photo: Cr7Carlos, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
There are few tourists who make it to the Campoo region, that piece of Cantabrian territory that opens up beginning to the south of the Cantabrian Mountain Range and resembles the Castilian Plateau more than northern Spain. However, if you want an experience away from crowds and typical tourist trail, here in Campoo, you’ll find a must-visit destination: the source of the Ebro River in the town of Reinosa.
The Ebro, the second largest river in Spain and the second largest of all rivers that flow into the Mediterranean (second only to the Nile), runs 930 kilometers through the Iberian Peninsula, with its “kilometer 0” (origin) being in Reionsa in the Campoo region.
A visit here is a unique experience and a chance to see how 930 kilometers of water emerge from a spring in the middle of a lost forest. And while it sounds remote, you can even reach Reinosa on the suburban train that departs from Santander.
11. San Vicente de la Barquera and Comillas
San Vicente de la Barquera
Looking out on Oyambre beach and Comillas. Photo: JaviComillas, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
If there are two stately towns in Cantabria, with architecture that generates envy in anyone who visits them (because they can't live there all year round,) those are San Vicente de la Barquera and Comillas, the two jewels of the west coast of Cantabria. With privileged views of the Picos de Europa and bathed by the Cantabrian Sea, both towns - just 10 kilometers apart - are a perfect destination for a visit of one or two days.
My recommended plan would be to go to Comillas and check out its impressive university (private, of course), the opulent Palacio de Sobrellano, and the fabulously colored Capricho building, which was designed by Gaudí. Afterwards, spend some time on Oyambre Beach, just a few kilometers outside of town. From there, head on to San Vicente de la Barquera and end the day with a nice walk along the coast and through the town. For dinner, enjoy a meal at Puente La Maza Restaurant.
12. Valles Pasiegos
Photo: Emilio Gómez Fernández, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Although not as well-known as other Cantabrian destinations, the Valles Pasiegos are an intermediate point that delights travelers looking for nature, tranquility, and a local atmosphere. Here, a set of valleys crossed by dozens of rivers are flanked by low mountains, and pastoral life, animals, and good traditional food take center stage.
If I tell you that the area’s typical product is "sobaos pasiegos," the most famous - and most delicious - sweet in Cantabria, I imagine you're already booking your trip to the Valles Pasiegos!
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Things to do in Cantabria
1. Trek in the Picos de Europa starting from Fuente Dé
Are you a fan of mountain treks? Do you want to see the Picos de Europa up close? Well, regardless of the type of route you're looking for, whether it's more or less challenging, with more or less elevation gain, with or without exposed clifftop sections, the chances are you can find the perfect hike from Fuente Dé.
This point in the Cantabrian Mountain Range, famous for the cable car that ascends a 700-meter elevation gain from the village, is also a starting point for numerous mountain hiking routes. Choose the route that best suits your fitness level, enjoy nature, and afterwards, head down to Potes to treat yourself to the feast of your life at dinner. What a plan, isn't it?
2. Spend a morning or afternoon at the Centro Botín
Banco Santander, one of the most important financial institutions in the world, was born in the capital of Cantabria almost 200 years ago, driven by the growth of trade in the Santander port. After having expanded globally over the past decades, one of the Bank’s ways of rewarding its hometown was the Centro Botín, an art space designed by the architect and Pritzker Prize winner Renzo Piano, and located in a privileged position overlooking the sea.
In addition to being an architectural marvel that makes the visit worthwhile just for that, the Centro Botín always has an exhibition or event going on. And considering that it can rain a lot in Santander, it's always good to have the option of the Centro Botín at hand when the rain starts to pour.
3. Learn the history of salted anchovies in Santoña… and eat them!
Legend has it that many years ago several Sicilian families arrived in the coastal town of Santoña, a few kilometers from Laredo, and settled there to build a fishing business. They’d buy fish from the port, salt it in the Sicilian way, and send it back to Sicily for sale on their home island.
The business was successful and the families stayed in Santoña, becoming just another Cantabrian family. If you go to Santoña, they will surely tell you the story in detail, and the best part is that you'll be able to try the town’s famous salted anchovies, one of the delicacies par excellence of Spanish cuisine.
4. Experience the mystery of Garabandal
If you're into mysticism and esotericism, you'll surely be interested in what happened in Garabandal between 1961 and 1965. According to reports, in this village lost among the mountains of Cantabria, the Virgin Mary appeared to four school girls from the village, and one of the messages she had for them was that Pope John Paul II would be the last in the history of the Church, and that the end of the world would then come.
Here we are still, but, hey, any fan of the esoteric will be interested in a visit to Garabandal just the same. This is a place that still retains a certain mysterious air, and which sits in a beautiful natural setting.
5. Do some road cycling
Road cyclists will find that really all of northern Spain, but especially the mountain roads of Asturias, the Basque Country, and Cantabria, are incredible cycling destinations. Drivers respect cyclists here so it’s very safe, and while the mountain passes are demanding, they are beautiful and well-maintained, the environment is gorgeous, and the roads are well-kept.
So, if you enjoy pushing yourself to the limit while climbing a long mountain pass, bring your bike (or rent one) and prepare for a workout like no other! Here's a selection of the best mountain passes and routes to plan your own route when you go out to explore Cantabria on two wheels.
6. Traveling with kids? Go to Cabárceno. Don't have kids? Go to Cabárceno anyways!
Cabárceno is somewhere every kid should visit if given the chance, and children from all over Spain dream of it. The closest thing you can find to an African natural park in Europe, Cabárceno is a preserve/park where 120 species of animals hailing from five continents live and roam mostly freely.
If you're traveling to Cantabria with children, give them the pleasure of a safari here, where they'll see animals that they probably won't ever see in the wild again. Lions, giraffes, hippos, tigers, and practically any animal you can think of is in Cabárceno.
And yes, of course, even if you don't have kids, you can still go, because I know you want to!
7. Learn why they call Santillana del Mar the “town of 3 lies”
If I were you, I would go to Santillana del Mar just so that I could say I’ve been to the town with the most famous saying about its name anywhere in Spain. We Spaniards like to joke that this is the town of 3 lies, because its name implies 3 things about it, none of which are true: because Santillana del Mar, as you will see from that moment you arrive, is neither saintly (santi), nor flat (llana), nor does it have a sea (mar)".
In any case, although its name may seem like an ancient tourist trap designed to trick you into visiting, this beautiful town, which is less than half an hour's drive from Santander, is a must-visit. Get lost in its streets, marvel at the centuries-old architecture, check out the palaces and mansions, and eat some Cantabrian delicacies. Here, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time into an ancient medieval village and you’ll quickly stop caring that its name is a lie!
One tip: the summer crowds can be intense, so the town is best visited during other times of year.
8. Visit El Soplao cave
The Cave of El Soplao, just 80 kilometers from Santander, is an international reference point in the world of speleology. Opened during the 19th century during the mining boom that took over the north of Spain, the cave was abandoned for years after the mining industry left. However, in recent years, the cave has had a resurgence and is now a top tourist destination.
Of its 20 kilometers of caverns, four are open to the public, and offer the chance to see a unique array of earthly elements. There are various ways to explore the cave, with everything from tours adapted for young children to adventure sports and thrill seekers. In addition, the El Soplao complex has a hotel and restaurant.
9. Listen to electronic music in Saltacaballo
When I think of a grand finale for any trip to Cantabria, the first thing that comes to mind is spending a night (and a sunrise) at Zul, in the village of Saltacaballo, a few kilometers from the border between Cantabria and the Basque Country.
At the foot of a cliff, with stunning views of the Cantabrian Sea, Zul is the place to watch the sunrise every morning while the world's best DJs liven up the party with electronic beats. A music club like no other in Spain, I know this isn’t for everyone, but it’s certainly a unique way to finish a trip here. If it sounds at all appealing to you, then don’t hesitate - just go!
Best beaches in the region
With its extensive coastline, there are literally countless beaches to visit in Cantabria. Here, you’ll find calm sandy beaches, rocky shores, big waves perfect for surfing, and everything in between.
With that in mind, I’ve put together a list of some of the beaches that I personally like, but this is by no means comprehensive.
1. Playa de Barnejo-Berellín: My favorite beach in all of Cantabria, Playa Berellín is just a short distance from the town of San Vicente de la Barquera. Tucked away at the end of a narrow bay and lying at the base of tree-covered cliffs, this is an enclosed little beach with very calm waters and a completely secluded atmosphere. It’s a wonderful place to escape to!
2. El Sardinero beach: right in downtown Santander, El Sardinero is one of the finest urban beaches in all of Spain. A wide sandy beach with very cold water (as with just about every beach in the north!), this is a fun spot to take a dip and people watch when you want a break from the city. The beaches seaside promenade, the Paseo Marítimo is a great place to take a stroll and enjoy the views.
3. Mataleñas beach: Also in Santander, but out near the lighouse, and reached via a walk along the city’s promenade is Mataleñas beach. This is one of the prettiest beaches in Cantabria, and is nestled in a tiny little cove right at the bottom of steep cliffs. You have to walk down quite a few stairs to get here, but it’s well worth the bit of exercise.
4. Playas de Langre: Just outside the town of Langre, and only about a 30km drive from Santander, are the two beaches of Langre, La Grande and La Pequeña. Both are golden sandy beaches backed by vertical green cliffs, and are great for surfing and sunbathing (less good for swimming because of the waves).
5. Playa de Galizano: Almost right next door to the Playas de Langre is Galizano beach, another great spot to check out. Also at the base of steep cliffs covered in trees, this is a little 150-meter or so beach tucked away with a shallow river running through the sand.
6. Playa de Tagle: Near to Suances, this is an expansive sandy beach with gentle waves, making it a good choice for swimming and family outings. The sunsets here are fantastic and it’s a popular spot for locals, who come here to escape the crowds on the town’s beaches.
7. Playa de Somo: Just across the bay from Santander and reachable via frequent ferry service from the city’s Estación Marítima Los Reginas, this beach boasts a long stretch of fine golden sand, backed by dunes and pine trees. It’s a popular with surfers due to its consistent waves.
8. Playa de Valdearenas: Near the town of Liencres and located within the Parque Natural Dunas de Liencres, this is another pleasant and extensive sandy beach backed by impressive dunes and pine forest. The waves are often significant, so it’s not a great swimming beach, but the surrounding park is very nice for wandering around amongst the dunes.
9. Playa de El Puntal: Like Playa de Somo, Playa El Puntal is found just across the bay from Santander. A thinner strip of sand than some of the other beaches, this is a popular spot for city-goers to escape to during the summer. You’ll find some amenities and services on the beach during the high-season and the beach can be reached by ferry from Santander or via a short walk along the promenade from the town of Somo.
10. Playa de Ris: An easy walk from the town of Noja, this is a nice sandy beach with gradual slopes and calmer water than many others. Reachable via a pedestrian promenade, you can also get to lots of other nearby beaches if you’re up for a pleasant walk. The area along the promenade is mostly marshland, and this is a major stop for migratory birds.
11. Playa de Berria: Just a couple of kilometers north of the town of Santoña, this is one of my favorite beaches in the region. A sandy, blue flag beach (great for swimming), it’s tucked between Mount Brusco to the west and the Buciero massif to the east, giving it a great atmosphere and lovely views.
12. Playa de Merón: Right in the lovely town of San Vicente de la Barquera, this expansive, crescent-shaped beach has great views of the Cantabrian coastline. Stretching out over 4 kilometers, it often has bigger surf, whereas the adjacent Playa El Rosal is calmer and offers great views of the town.
13. Playa de Luaña: Near the town of Cóbreces, this is a little cove-like beach tucked away at the foot of green, field-topped cliffs. It has a delightfully secluded feeling and often has fairly calm waters.
14. Playa de Oyambre: Inside the protected Oyambre Natural Park, this 2 kilometer stretch of golden sand is entirely unspoiled and offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. The waves and currents can be strong, so check the conditions before swimming.
My suggested 7-day Cantabria itinerary
As I mentioned before, I think anywhere from 4 to 7 days is about the right amount of time to spend in Cantabria. With that in mind, here’s my suggested 7-day itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival in Santander, stroll along the city's coastline from Sardinero Beach to the city center in the morning, touring the headland and La Magdalena Palace. Head to the Centro Botín in the afternoon, and then enjoy an evening in the Puertochico neighborhood.
Day 2: Take a day trip to the beaches and towns along the Costa Quebrada, either by public transportation, car, or on foot. Return to Santander for dinner at Restaurante Marucho.
Day 3: Travel to Santillana del Mar to explore the charming medieval town, and then visit the Altamira, El Castillo, and/or Las Monedas caves to see ancient cave art.
Day 4: Visit Cabezón de la Sal and enjoy a traditional cocido montañés (hearty mountain stew) at El Ciclo restaurant in the town of Ruente.
Day 5: Journey to the coastal town of Comillas, visit its university, then head to San Vicente de la Barquera to explore the town and Berellín Beach, the best in Cantabria..
Day 6: Head to Potes and spend the day at the gateway to the Picos de Europa Mountains visiting la Hermida Gorge and relaxing in the thermal waters of the Deva River.
Day 7: After spending the night in Potes, embark on a mountain hike in the Picos de Europa tailored to your skill level. Bid farewell to Cantabria from its highest point and end your last day with cider and delicious food back in Potes.
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Luis Fernández
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Hi, I'm Luis, and I've been a travel consultant here in Spain for the last 11 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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