Lake Titicaca Travel Guide
Lake Titicaca, sitting on the border between Peru and Bolivia, is one of Peru’s highlight attractions. Considered to be the birthplace of the sun according to Inca mythology, and a vast shimmering blue body of water high in the Andes mountains, this is surely a must-visit destination on any trip to Peru.
The little islands dotted across Lake Titicaca’s surface are rightly what captivates people the most on their visits here. When touring the lake, you’ll find an entire archipelago of isles made from reeds, including the island where the Inca believed the ‘son of the sun’, Manco Cápac, arose and brought the sun back to the world.
You’ll also encounter idyllic spots where you can escape from modern life, staying in some of Peru’s finest homestays and gaining valuable insights into local life and culture.
Unlike some parts of Peru, Lake Titicaca and its surroundings are less dominated by “must-see” sights and adrenaline activities. Rather, what you get here are beautiful bucolic experiences where the key objective is to relax and let yourself unwind, immersing yourself in your surroundings and soaking in the traditional lifestyle of the locals.
Enjoy meals with locals in their own homes, go on walks to some of the fascinating pre-Inca ruins in Peru, and just drink in the dazzling views, sparkling lake, distant mountains, and pleasant community life.
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Table of Contents
Why visit
Where is Lake Titicaca
How to get here
Best time to visit
How long to spend
Where to stay - best bases
Transportation and how to get around
Places to visit and things to do
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Why visit?
Looking out on the lake from Taquile Island. Photo: Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
For me, Lake Titicaca and the surroundings areas are a place to live life in the slow lane for a few days, a week, or maybe three. In my opinion, this is by far the best part of the country for visitors to get acquainted with local culture, and it rivals anywhere in South America for this. In Lake Titicaca, you can truly become a part of local life.
The reason for this is the superbly developed array of homestays, found on islands like Isla Amantaní or in shoreside communities on the Capachica and Chucuito Peninsulas. These are places that give you the chance to interact with, dine with, and learn from locals that for the most part, are still faithful to ancient Aymara and Quechua traditions and beliefs.
Even Puno, the main travelers’ hub for the lake, has retained its colorful traditions and festivals so much so that it is known as the folklore capital of Peru.
All of this goes on, of course, beside the tranquil waters of one of the most famous and fabulously beautiful lakes in South America. And while there certainly are tacky touristy spots, it doesn’t take long to get outside of the main tourist areas (Puno, Islas Uros, Copacabana and Isla del Sol) and leave the crowds behind.
Head out just a bit further and you’ll be rewarded by a lovely, laid-back, and mass-tourism-free version of Titicaca, found in sleepy rural towns and villages containing bewitching colonial churches and poignant pre-Inca ruins.
Where is Lake Titicaca?
Lake Titicaca is part of the wider Peruvian Andes region and it lies in the southeastern end of Peru’s Southern Andes, and Peru as a whole.
The lake is shared between Peru and Bolivia, with its northwest portion in Peruvian territory and the southeastern part of the lake in Bolivian territory. Surrounded by altiplano (high-altitude plains), it sits at an elevation of 12,500 feet (higher than Cusco!).
Within Peru, the region is bordered on the west by the area containing Arequipa & Colca/Cotahuasi canyons – a zone containing Peru’s second-biggest city (Arequipa) and some of the world’s deepest canyons –, while heading northwest will eventually take you into Cusco and the Sacred Valley region. To the east is the border with Bolivia, and heading southwest will eventually take you to Chile, about 200 miles away.
How to get to Lake Titicaca
Arriving by air
The main airport of relevance for travelers wanting to explore the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca is Juliaca. Latam and SKY Airlines combine to offer four or five direct daily flights connecting Juliaca with Lima, with prices for a one-way ticket usually costing about $100 USD. The journey time is just over 1.5 hours.
There are also regular daily flights from Cusco, as well as other airports throughout the country, but they all require making a transfer in Lima first.
Once arrived in Juliaca, most travelers depart right away for Puno, which can be reached by a 1-hour bus ride. A host of companies run this route and there are frequent departures all throughout the day. Tickets will usually cost you less than $10 USD.
Arriving by bus
You can also reach Juliaca overland by bus. A standard trip with a reputable long-distance bus company (such as Civa) takes about 20-25 hours from Lima and costs around $50 USD. Civa typically offers 3 or so departures per day.
Buses also connect Juliaca and Puno with Cusco, with the trip taking about 6 hours to Juliaca and 7 hour for Puno. These are usually overnight buses, run by a few different companies. Tickets cost aroud $30 USD.
Arriving by train
An option for the romantics is to take the train from Cusco to Puno. Trains link Cuzco’s Wanchaq station with Puno, and currently run on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. This journey was the main way of connecting the two cities in the days when roads were poor, and the journey is extremely comfortable and scenic, but the bus is now significantly quicker and cheaper.
Trains leave in the morning from Cusco between 7 and 8 AM, tickets for this route cost around $270 USD, and the trip takes approximately 10.5 hours. Check Peru Rail for complete schedules and fares.
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Best time to visit
A viewpoint on Isla Challeca on the Bolivian side of the lake. Photo: EEJCC, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lake Titicaca’s climate is typical of the rest of the Peruvian Andes and altiplano and is divided into two distinct periods: a dry season and a wet season. Dry season, at its height from June through August, is chilly but bright and sunny and virtually rain-free. Wet season, at its height from December through March, is milder, but as the name implies, much much wetter.
April to October: Dry Season
The heavy rains of summer abate in April, and the region starts to take on a hue of dazzling green. This inspires the increase of tourism, which reaches its height between June and August, coinciding with the southern hemisphere’s midwinter.
Temperatures in/around Lake Titicaca during this time reach average daytime highs of 65°F, which is slightly warmer than in the wet season. However, it gets far colder at night, with temperatures dropping to mean daily lows of just 19°F during July.
In general, this season is great for hiking, taking photos, and exploring Late Titicaca’s villages and communities rain-free.
Just be sure to pack some layers and warm clothing for the evenings.
October to April: Low Season
Come October, the Lake Titicaca area sees daily rainfall begin to dramatically increase. There is frequent cloud cover and you should expect regular heavy downpours. It can also be very foggy, obscuring your views over the lake.
Temperatures are a little bit warmer than during the dry season, especially at night, when the temperature does not drop nearly as much.
While the weather is most definitely not ideal during this period, the upsides to a rainy season visit is that there will be far fewer fellow tourists and most of this folklore- and tradition-rich region’s best festivities occur during these months. Puno’s pageantry includes the Virgen de la Candelaria (Candlemas) celebrations in February, and Fiesta Jubilar de Puno, celebrating the birth of the first Inca Manco Cápac, in November.
For more info on visiting Peru in each season, check out our guide to visiting Peru in every season.
How long to spend visiting Lake Titicaca
If you have very limited time and are trying to fit Lake Titicaca into a super tight schedule, 4-5 days would be enough time to whoosh into Puno, see the Islas Uros, storm on to Copacabana (in Bolivia), and finish up your whirlwind tour with a one-day trip out to the Isla del Sol in the southeast of the lake. But you would definitely be rushing, and that is the bare minimum that you’ll need do the Lake and surrounding area any semblance of justice.
Because of the fantastic access to authentic community life here, and the type of slower, more immersive tourism that that demands, you will really want more time though.
Homestays and community visits are a major component of any trip to Lake Titicaca, and for those to be as meaningful as they should be, you need to set aside time for leisurely days spent with no real goals or checklists in mind.
4-5 Days: for a whirlwind lake tour
Arrive in dramatic style, taking the train from Cusco to Puno. On your first morning in Puno, arrange a one-day trip out to the Islas Uros, the famous floating reed islands. On day two, poke around the Museo de la Coca y Costumbres before heading out to the pre-Inca funerary towers at the amazing Sillustani, or for something more active, try kayaking on the lake.
On day three, pay an early morning visit to Chucuito’s Templo de la Fertilidad before continuing to Copacabana on the Bolivian side of the lake. Walk up to Cerro Calvario to see sunset over Lake Titicaca.
Next, head out for an overnight trip to Isla del Sol, basing yourself in Yumani, and going for hikes to appreciate the entrancing island scenery.
7-10 Days: community stays and deep cultural insights
If you can spare a week or more, Lake Titicaca will reward you with immersive cultural experiences that you’ll never forget.
On top of everything mentioned above for your first 4-5 days, add on an overnight stay on the Islas Uros to appreciate and understand life on these majestic isles where almost everything is made from reeds.
Afterwards, take in another island, such as Isla Amantaní, where you can also stay with members of the community.
Then, explore the northern part of the lake and kick back on the balmy Capachica Peninsula for a few days, where tourists are fewer and insights into local culture are greater because you stay with families in homestays.
You could also opt to spend more time on Isla del Sol, and fit in a visit to the quieter nearby Isla de la Luna – well-known for the quality of its lake-sourced fish.
Where to stay
Puno
The chilly city of Puno is the key base and entry point for travelers visiting the Peruvian shores of Lake Titicaca. The city has a good range of places to eat and sleep, a couple of interesting museums and – most crucially of all – is the port from where you can explore many of Lake Titicaca’s islands.
Spend a day or two in the city on either side of a trip to some of the islands, such as the Islas Uros.
Islas Uros
There can be few more unique places to stay in Peru than on this archipelago of floating islands made from reeds. There are a few standout accommodation options on the isles, where you’ll stay in traditional huts made out of reeds, just like the isles themselves.
Staying here overnight is a great way to soak up some of the region’s traditional culture.
Capachica Peninsula
Perhaps the best way of all for getting insights into the culture of the Titicaca area is to lodge out on the Capachica Peninsula, which protrudes out of the lake’s northwest shore. Far fewer tourists come here, and the only way to stay is in a homestay with a local family.
It has a feeling of timeless authenticity – especially if you spend two or three days here. Main communities include Llachón and Chifrón.
Copacabana
I would be remiss not to mention this attractive traveler’s base on the Bolivian (southeastern) shore of Lake Titicaca, tucked away on an isthmus with another lake to its southeast. Copacabana offers a lively array of places to eat and stay, cracking views of Lake Titicaca, and is the base for trips out to the magical Isla del Sol or Isla de la Luna.
Spend at least a day in Copacabana if you can – looking at the lovely cathedral and the view from the top of Cerro Calvario.
Isla del Sol
Also on the Bolivian portion of Lake Titicaca, Isla del Sol is a tradition-entrenched island that is one of the highlights of any trip to the Lake. It was here that ‘son of the sun’, Manco Cápac, appeared in Inca mythology, heralding the return of the sun to the world. These days it is extremely popular with tourists who arrive by boat from Copacabana.
The main community for a stay is Yumani, which offers access to lots of hikes and ancient Inca sites. Stay here overnight, and ideally a couple of nights, if time allows.
How to get around Lake Titicaca
Photo: EEJCC, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
On the shores of the lake, Puno is the central transport hub from which to reach the islands (via ferries) and other towns and points of interest (mostly via buses, combis, and colectivos). Below is a quick overview describing the transport options and which destinations are most accessible via them.
Getting to the islands
From Puno, ferry boats depart from the city’s port to the Islas Uros, Isla Taquile, and Isla Amantaní. At the port, you will find kiosks for each of these destinations, with their names clearly displayed.
There is regular ferry service out to the Islas Uros, which are quite close, while boats typically depart less frequently for the other islands, which are much further away. For Isla Taquile and Isla A,antaní the first boat usually leaves around 7:00 or 8:00 AM and returns from the islands later in the afternoon, around 3:00 or 4:00 PM.
If the public ferry schedule doesn’t work with your timing, you can also usually hire a boat at the port to take you to the islands and back, or book a tour with any of the many tour operators in town.
The ferry is much slower than the tour boats, but also much cheaper (only a few dollars).
From Copacabana, ferries depart for the Isla del Sol and Isla de de la Luna, typically with a morning and mid-afternoon departure. The trip to Isla del Sol will take around 1.5 hours.
Alternatively, in both Bolivia and Peru there are lots of private tour operators who offer tours of the islands, which usually include multiple stops and an english-speaking guide.
Buses, combis and colectivos - for overland travel around the lake
Organized, formal bus travel run by established companies is not especially common in this area, but the major cities do provide regular links. Juliaca and Puno, for instance, are well connected by frequent buses every day, as are Puno and Copacabana (in Bolivia).
However, for most destinations, including smaller towns ands sites of touristic interest, you will be reliable on combis (shared buses - usually minivans really) and colectivos (shared taxis)
Combis and colectivos are everywhere and they travel all over the region.
Both means of transport operate in a similar way, running fixed routes, and stopping along the way to drop off or pick up passengers. They may have some standard stops along the route, but will often only stop if someone requests to get off or if they need to fill an empty seat.
They are not official buses operated by the government, but they’re extremely common and generally very safe. You can't get everywhere with a combi or a colectivo but they run dozens of routes connecting towns and even tiny villages all across the region.
Typically, combis and colectivos depart from a fixed location in any given town or village (although in larger towns there may be various combi/colectivo “meeting points”), but the departure times vary tremendously. As these are not official transport, there is no schedule and drivers will leave whenever they manage to fill their car.
To get where you want to go, you’ll have to ask various drivers if they’re going in your direction. If they are, you’ll then have to negotiate the price of your fare, which may vary depending on how far into the route they need to take you.
Key destinations served by combi include Lampa (from Juliaca) and the Capachica Peninsula (from Puno).
Taxis and private drivers
Regular taxis and private drivers are also available for transport to all destinations in and around Lake Titicaca, and they can be hired to bring you to most places within a reasonable drive of the key transport hubs. While expensive by local standards, the fares are very affordable by most travelers’ standards.
In many destinations around Lake Titicaca, you’ll find lots of “pseudo-taxis” that will offer to drive you around. These are usually just private individuals with a car, not official taxis and they rarely have any government license. While usually safe, it’s best to exercise caution when dealing with private individuals.
Tour operators - bus and boat tours
Organized tours run by local agencies are also an option to get to some out-of-the-way destinations. For example, the dramatic pre-Inca ruins of Sillustani can be visited by tour from Puno, along with many other towns and sites of interst.
On the lake, any and all of the well-known islands on both the Peruvian and Bolivian sides of the lake can be reached by private boat tour. There are a host of agencies/tour companies, in addition to private boat captains who you can book tours and transporation with.
Where to go and what to do in/around Lake Titicaca
1. Arrive in the region in style by train from Cuzco
It’s no longer the fastest way to arrive in the region, but it’s still undeniably the most stylish. On three days per week, you can take the train from Cusco across a part of the altiplano rarely otherwise glimpsed by tourists, getting some gorgeous views of the scenery along the way, and being treated to traditional regional food and even a music performance en route.
2. Wander Lampa’s charming streets
The town of Lampa is a happy alternative for visitors who may otherwise be tempted to linger in the unattractive regional transport hub Juliaca. It sports the beautiful Iglesia de Santiago Apostol church, with its copy of Michelangelo’s La Pieta, and fascinating catacombs, an interesting museum, and an atmospheric, sleepy Spanish colonial vibe.
Get here by combi from Juliaca.
Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol in Lampa. Photo: Yoshua29.ydsr, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Experience local life in the Capachica Peninsula
Specific sights are few and far between on the stunning Capachica Peninsula – but that’s because it is nearly all serenely beautiful. Located on the northwest shore of Lake Titicaca, it’s the perfect place to experience community-run tourism.
The only accommodation is in local homestays in one of the laid-back little communities such as Llachón or Chifrón – which even has a beach! The main thing to do, however, is to find learn about the traditional communities here and their inhabitants’ way of life.
4. Do a home-stay in Luquina Chico
Another tranquil lakeshore peninsula hang-out, Luquina Chico is about 33 miles east of Puno, at the far end of the Chucuito Peninsula. It’s the ideal place to stay in a homestay and get to know the area through the recommendations of locals.
While here, consider renting a kayak to explore the lake, and walking out to the funerary towers erected by pre-Inca lakeshore peoples such as the Colla.
5. Take a boat trip to Isla Taquile
From Puno, taking a boat trip out to this lovely little island is a great way to spend a day. You can climb to the island high-point for incredible views of the lake, and experience the way of life in one of the few Quechua-speaking communities around the lake.
Most of the other communities speak Aymara, a culture which has similarities in beliefs and language but is also its own separate thing.
Looking out at Amantani island from Isla Taquile
6. Learn about coca and local folklore at Puno’s Museo de la Coca y Costumbres
For first-timer to the Puno region unfamiliar with the intricacies of its strong traditional folkore (which is famous all across Peru), a visit to this informative Puno museum is of huge interest. It will give you excellent insights into traditional costumes and other folkloric traditions.
It also provides an informative look at the role that coca plays in Highland Peru society. More famous as the leaf used to make cocaine, coca is strongly incorporated into local peoples’ diet, medicine, history, and culture here.
7. Party at La Virgen de la Candelaria in Puno or Pucará
One of the biggest and best festivities in the region occurs during February around the date that Candlemas falls. A likeness of the Virgen de la Candelaria is paraded through the streets to much music and dancing by the region’s Aymara and Quechua peoples, remembering a time in the late 18th century when parading the virgin around by candlelight supposedly repelled invaders.
Puno and Pucará, 40 miles north of Juliaca, have some of the most renowned celebrations.
8. Go kayaking on Lake Titicaca
Imagine the gleaming blue waters of one of the highest large lakes on the planet, gently sloshing as you cut through them under your own steam with your own paddle on a peaceful kayaking trip.
It really is a level of seclusion and tranquillity on the lake that you could never find on a larger organised tour or a boat trip.
You can arrange kayaking trips with tour operators in Puno.
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9. Take a boat trip to the unique Islas Uros
This remarkable archipelago of tiny floating islands assembled from reeds is the most-photographed and the main tourist attraction on Lake Titicaca. Sitting in the lake a few miles east of Puno, and accessible for day visitors by regular ferry or guided tour, the islands are worth seeing despite their popularity.
Reeds are gathered to form not just the islands but also the structures on them, in which traditionally-clad Aymara people live and go about their daily lives. You can also stay on some of these isles for a longer experience.
Photo: Frans-Banja Mulder, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
10. Experience a homestay on Isla Amantaní
From Puno, Isla Amantaní is the second most popular island to visit, after those of the Islas Uros archipelogo. Sitting in the lake to the east of the Capachica Peninsula, Amantaní is best visited on an overnight stay.
The islanders are accustomed to offering homestays for touristst, and the window that an extended visit provides into local life is quite compelling, as are the superlative views of the lake and the walks up to ancient pre-Inca sites.
11. Hike to Inca ruins at Ichu
One of the top hikes around Titicaca’s shores begins just a few miles southeast of Puno. The complex itself is called Centro Ceremonial Tunuhuire, and is spread over a large area within verdant rolling uplands.
You can walk here yourself from the main road passing through the town of Ichu (heading southeast in the direction of Copacabana), or explore on a tour from Puno. You can spend several hours walking around and picnicking at the site.
12. See the ancient funerary towers of Sillustani
Visit Sillustani, and you will see some of the most interesting pre-Inca ruins in Southern Peru. The Colla people, who would later come to form the region’s Inca population, raised myriad funerary towers known as chullpas in this area to honor their dead.
The biggest and best-known group of these haunting ancient monuments is Sillustani. The ruins site is adjacent to a lake known for its birdlife, so you can combine an archaeological and historical visit with excellent wildlife spotting.
Transportation to Sillustani is limited or nonexistent, so it’s easiest to visit on a guided tour from Puno. Devote at least a half-day to see the site.
Funerary towers in Sillustani. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
13. Find fertility at Chucuito’s Templo de la Fertilidad
One of the big draws along the road from Puno to Copacabana is the Chucuito archaeological site, known for its Templo de la Fertilidad (Fertility Temple).
The site – well worth an hour’s diversion – is a collection of dozens of erect stone phalluses, raised in pre-Inca times and said to bring the gift of fertility to those who come into contact with them.
14. Be transfixed by Templo de Pomata Santiago Apóstolo
This temple is the standout surprise of the little lakeshore town of Pomata, about 15 miles southeast of Juli. The magnificent church is hewn out of sandstone and there are many carvings of the puma – sacred in Aymara mythology – around the building.
Regular combis pass by en route between Puno and the Peru-Bolivia border town Yunguyo, so this can easily be reached on your own.
15. Explore enchanting Isla del Sol on foot
Isla del Sol on the Bolivian part of Lake Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology and an enchanting tradition-steeped island that you can visit from Copacabana.
Yumani is the prettiest and main community to base yourself, ideally for one or two nights. From there, you can go on a host of scenic hikes and visit ancient Inca sites. Beware that inter-island disputes can and do restrict tourist activity to the area around Yumani though.
With more time here, you could also visit the smaller nearby island of Isla de la Luna for another dose of serene lake life.
A trail on the Isla del Sol. Photo: Steve Bennett, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
16. Gaze in awe at Copacabana Cathedral
Copacabana, on the Bolivian lakeshore, is home to this grand Moorish-style cathedral, housing the important shrine of the Virgen de la Candelaria.
The shrine centers around a statue carved by Francisco Tito Yupanqui to which miracles began being attributed soon after its creation.
Get here by bus from Puno or La Paz (in Bolivia).
17. Watch sunset over Lake Titicaca from Copacabana’s Cerro Calvario
For sublime views over the lake from the south-eastern (Bolivian) end, climb up to hilly Cerro Calvario viewpoint outside of Copacabana. The summit is lined in crosses, enhancing the aesthetics.
The start of the 30-minute hike up is from the chapel of Capilla del Señor de La Cruz de Colquepata, on Calle 3 de Mayo (in Copacabana).
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