A Local’s Guide to the Best Restaurants in Split
Split is the second-largest city in Croatia and a favorite holiday destination in the region of Dalmatia. It is also a vital travel junction, the terminal of trains, buses, and ferries coming or going from some of the outermost islands in the Croatian Adriatic Sea.
The city is home to one of Croatia’s most beautiful sights, Diocletian’s Palace, which once housed the estate of a Roman emperor and the Roman imperial court and is still inhabited even now, 2,000 years later.
This long history of inhabitation combined with the city’s status as a nexus for trade and transit has created a very interesting cuisine. While distinctively Dalmatian, the food culture in this town is quite diverse, ranging from Bosnian-influenced Balkan cuisine to Mediterranean fine dining.
Read on for my tips and advice on how to make the most of your culinary adventures in Split!
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Must-try typical dishes in Split
Split is the center of Dalmatia and it offers excellent Dalmatian cuisine, characterized by fresh ingredients, fish and seafood, a lot of vegetables, olive oil, grilled meat, and rich desserts.
Dalmatia is very much part of the Mediterranean, and its food follows the healthy way of eating found throughout the Med. When in Split, do try the following dishes:
Fish – prepared grilled (na gradele), boiled with seafood (buzara), or as a fish stew (brudet)
Pašticada – sweet-and-sour meat stew (mostly veal) served with homemade gnocchi
Dalmatian prosciutto – a favorite appetizer, smoked and dried
Grilled lamb – roasted on a spit
Octopus – made with potatoes under a bell-shaped iron lid (peka)
Brač olive oil – coming from one of the largest islands in Croatia
Vis Hib – fig pie from the faraway island of Vis
Hvar wines – wine from the sunny island of Hvar, particularly Plavac mali, Zinfandel, and Pošip
Meals and mealtimes in Split
Breakfast
Breakfast in Split is eaten early and is a light meal. It usually consists of eggs and pastries made in the local bakery, followed by many vegetables. While tea and fruit juices are always on the table, Split people love coffee.
Locals have a habit of leisurely nursing their coffee, often spending hours wiling away the time and people watching. It’s also not uncommon for locals to take a sip of local brandy with their coffee! Taking it slowly and savoring life is the way Dalmatia works!
Lunch
Many traditional taverns (konoba) in Split will open at 10.30 am and serve marenda, a brunch consisting of very local food, which people usually make at home. It is the best homestyle cooking with familiar flavors. Think of it like Croatian soul food! Time for marenda stops at 2 pm at the latest; it is rare to find any dish left after that.
A la carte lunch usually starts after marenda, although everyone can order a la carte food. While taverns open a bit earlier, standard restaurants don’t usually open the doors until noon. Some places won’t even open at lunch or will only set up shop significantly later in the afternoon. Another local curiosity, Dalmatians usually eat a small second lunch at home, around 4 or 5 pm.
Dinner
Dinner in Split does not start before 7 or 8 pm, and in summer it may be even later. With the oppressive summer heat, it’s ideal to wait until later in the evening when the day’s heat turns into a pleasantly cool evening, perfect for seaside dining.
Dinner is the most elaborate meal of the day, and this is when you’ll be able to order the most interesting and creative dishes. It’s also when wine starts to appear on the menu, not so common at lunch.
Croatians like to take dinner slowly, and to consume plenty of wine while doing so, and you should plan on the same! Don’t expect a quick meal.
Paying at restaurants & tipping
Split upgraded its payment methods a few years back, and finding a place where one cannot pay with a card is now very rare. Even bakeries and cafes will accept credit cards. The only place where you’ll certainly need to have cash is at local markets.
It’s also good to know that Croatians like to pay visitors’ bills, but if a friendly stranger pays yours at a bar for instance, know that it’s typically common for you to then order a round of drinks as a little thank you. At local taverns (restaurants in Croatia, not to be confused with the North American idea of a tavern) it’s also quite common for for the owner to give you a round of drinks on the house towards the end of your lunch if you had a substantial meal.
Tipping in Croatia is not required or expected in most places (especially not in the taverns) but it is appreciated. It is normal for Croatians to round up on the bill, often leaving the waiters 20-40 cents. That said, no one will be angry if you don’t tip.
The only exception to this is at fine dining establishments and posh restaurants catering to tourists. In these places, a tip is actually expected, and something between 5-10% is appropriate.
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My 8 favorite restaurants in Split
Dalmatian cuisine is historically a mix of Croatian, Italian, and Balkan/Turkish influences. It is very much cherished by the locals who still pick Split’s marketplaces for their food shopping and love to prepare meals from locally grown products.
The town is surrounded by many farms, vineyards, and olive groves, and the fish market is abundant with locally-caught fish. For the best meals, always ask your waiter what is local and fresh.
1. Bokeria Kitchen and Wine Bar
Inside the walls of Diocletian’s Palace, Bokeria serves up traditional Mediterranean cuisine with a modern twist. Imaginative dishes are prepared in an equally exciting interior: high ceilings giving the interior a more urban and contemporary touch.
On the menu, subtle details such as homemade Dalmatian prosciutto and jars of cured local products keep the menu authentic and local.
My favorite dishes: prosciutto, oxtail risotto, lamb shank, octopus
Find it on Google Maps here.
2. Šug
This restaurant’s name denotes the Dalmatian word for “sauce”. Two friends, great culinary connoisseurs and enthusiasts, Duje Kanajet and Mateo Kordić, know that šug is essential to every meal and indispensable in life.
They draw their inspiration from traditional dishes which they then take and elevate using creative twists and modern techniques.
My favorite dishes: carpaccio with smoked swordfish, tečada meat plate, lobster a la Šug, steak
Find it on Google Maps here.
3. Artičok
This lovely spot is located on one of the most beautiful terraces in the city and just a few minutes from the waterfront.
Owner Marin Radić, an interior designer, is responsible for the bohemian-decorated space. They have a dozen dishes on the menu and about 50 wine labels.
They also offer homemade Barba beer, and their cocktails are all unique and made just for the restaurant.
My favorite dishes: homemade macaroons, steak tartar, octopus, cholocate mousse with lavender.
Find it on Google Maps here.
4. DeListeš
This local favorite is known for their traditional Dalmatian dishes and rustic atmosphere. Obrov Street, where DeListeš is located, is a Split gastro hot spot with all different types of restaurants with diverse styles and cuisine.
The competition keeps everyone on their toes and the quality here is always excellent. styles.
My favorite dishes: goat’s meat with peas, barley with prawns, veal schnitzel in sauce, squid with fava beans.
Location:Find it on Google Maps here.
5. Otprilike ovako
This classic restaurant on a side street in the Varoš neighborhood is run by the Grabovac family and is named in honor of a cult music band which the owner, Davor, just so happens to have played in.
They source their fish directly from local fishermen and only serve fish caught that very day. They take farm to table to a whole new level here - on their own family farm they grow vegetables, produce their own olive oil and wine, and cure their own meat (exclusively from prized Slavonian pigs).
My favorite dishes: everything on offer. Taverns such as these usually have brunches without a pre-organized menu.
Find it on Google Maps here.
6. Zrno soli
Meaning “pinch of salt” in Croatia, this restaurant is located in Split’s marina, overlooking the Riva and the ferry port. It features a nautical-themed interior and is a favorite among yacht owners.
My favorite dishes: Duke Branimir Adriatic squid, lobster, black pig steak.
Find it on Google Maps here.
7. Fetivi
If you want to experience a 100% authentic meal in an original Dalmatian tavern, Fetivi is the place for you. This is the perfect spot to relax in their small, warmly decorated space with wood planks and guitars on the walls, rustic wooden tables, and a terrace that changes style depending on the season.
The tavern prepares excellent traditional Dalmatian cuisine at more than affordable prices.
My favorite dishes: prosciutto and cheese plate, fried small fish, grilled fish, cuttlefish stew.
Find it on Google Maps here.
8. Oš kolač
The name of this charming little cafe roughly translates to “do you want a cake”, and that’s exactly what you should plan on having! This is the ideal place in Split to indulge in a decadent dessert, ice cream, and all things sweet! Grab a coffee while you’re there too!
Find it on Google Maps here.
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