A Local’s Guide to Travel in Nice, France
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One of the jewels of the Côte d’Azur, Nice really doesn’t need much introduction, and if you’re planning a visit to the French Riviera, there’s no doubt that you’ve already seen countless photos of this charming seaside city.
And what you see is what you get: the sun, the beach, the Mediterranean Sea, and a heavy dose of Belle Epoque glitz and glamor. All of that is what makes Nice world-famous, and it’s a deserved reputation. This is both a wonderful holiday destination for visitors, and also a genuinely lovely place to live. But, as with anywhere, that’s not everything that Nice is; there’s much more to the city than just that.
Nice is an intimate city that invites you to take your time discovering it. And despite being a global tourism hotspot, as soon as you step away from the crowded center, you’ll find authentic life and friendly locals who are happy to stop and chat with you.
Of course, it’s here, in the back streets and local neighborhoods where you’ll find the real atmosphere of southern France and the best bars and restaurants. This is the part of Nice that you need to slow down in and take your time with.
Finally, Nice is also city right on the edge of nature, a fact that few visitors fully appreciate. In just a few minutes, you can reach the heart of the wild hinterland and set off on wonderful hikes through the mountains, stopping to swim in rivers and lounge in the shade of the forest. In other words, this is an ideal base from which to discover this part of the Alps!
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Why visit
As I’ve already explained a little bit above, Nice is quite a versatile city - much more than “just” a beach town. Boasting gorgeous architecture, a wealth of history and art museums, an excellent cuisine, beautiful beaches (of course) and great access to nature, and, perhaps unexpectedly, also a great carnival and electronic music festival, this is somewhere with a lot to see and do.
The people of Nice are quite transparent about their pride for their city (as they should be!) and they love to celebrate their culture and traditions. So don’t be surprised if you see signs written in both French and the local Niçois dialect, or if you come across a commemorative procession or local celebration during your visit. That’s because there's a lot to commemorate here, and we don't ever forget it!
Founded over 2,000 years ago, the town has been Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Savoyard, French, and even completely independent at times. The glorious era of high-class tourism at the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth (which gave rise to the famous name of the Promenade des Anglais) put the finishing touches on the city's architectural heritage:
Among the hundreds of lovely Belle-Époque buildings, you can see a giant royal crown on top of the former Hotel Regina (the residence of Britain's Queen Victoria), or an Orthodox church in the heart of the most chic district where the old Russian aristocracy once congregated.
This architectural heritage and wealth of history and culture allows visitors to seamlessly switch between leisure and culture, between past and present, building a holiday exactly as they desire. Nice has a bit of everything, so it’s entirely up to you what you make of your visit here.
Where is Nice?
Located in the far southeast of France, 480 Miles from Paris, Nice lies wedged between the sea and the Alps and is just a stone’s throw from the Italian border. This city, one of the principal ones in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region and the second largest French city on the mediterranean coast, sits at the very beginning of the French Riviera (on the eastern side).
Although located in a 'corner' of France, Nice is far from isolated and is even a gateway to the world, to the great benefit of the surrounding territories. The train links the city directly to Paris and other major French cities (in particular Lyon and Marseille), as well as to Italy.
Meanwhile, Nice has its own international airport, meaning that tourists can arrive directly from anywhere on the globe... and locals can depart to anywhere they want!
Nice and the other towns of the French Riviera enjoy an extremely privileged geographical position: we're talking here about an area that has both the sea and the mid-to-high mountains right at its doorstep.
In summer, the beach is never more than a few minutes walk away, and it takes just a half-hour drive (or better still, a half-hour ride on the Alpine trains) to discover the lushness of the Alps. And in winter, the ski resorts are within easy reach.
How to get here
The best way to get to Nice will largely depend on where in France or elsewhere in the world you’re coming from. If you’re already in southern France or along the Riviera, then the coastal train is the perfect option.
If you’re in Italy on the Italian side of the riviera, you can catch a train or make a quick and easy drive over.
However, if you’re coming from further away in France or other international destinations, you will probably want to first fly into either the local airport in Nice or the international one in Marseille.
Here’s some more info on these options:
Arriving by air
Nice has its own airport which offers multiple direct daily flights to/from Paris as well as other destinations throughout France and Europe. The low cost carrier EasyJet runs many of these routes, so one-way tickets are often fairly inexpensive (under 100 euros).
Alternatively, you can also fly into the airport in the much larger city of Marseille, which has many daily connections with Paris and throughout the world. Whichever airport you fly into, the flight from Paris will take about 1.5 hours.
If you fly into Marseille, the best way to continue on to Nice is via the train. All the main towns of the French Riviera are connected by train, so if you won’t have a car, this is always the best and easiest way to travel around the area.
The train line runs along the coast, and you will have almost uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean sea the whole time, so it’s a glorious way to arrive into the Riviera.
There are many daily trains between Marseille and Nice, and the journey takes around 2.5 hours. Tickets cost from about 40 euros.
Arriving by train
If you’re coming from Paris and prefer to take the train, that’s a fine option, but it will require some patience on your end. You’ll first need to catch a high-speed 3-hour train to either Marseille or Aix-en-Provence, and will then make a transfer to a new train for the remaining two-hour journey to Nice.
Nice is actually very close to Marseille and Aix-en-Provence, so this leg of the journey should be much quicker, but unfortunately, high-speed trains can’t travel at their top speeds here because of the limitations of the Riviera’s rail network.
From Paris, more than a dozen trains make the journey every day and, if you book well in advance, you won't spend more than 30 euros per person (70 or 90 at the last minute), provided you use Ouigo rather than the SNCF.
Arriving from Italy
Many visitors to Nice and the French Riviera first spend some time on the Italian side of this lovely stretch of coast, so if that will be you, know that getting here from Italy is very easy.
You can either take the motorway (less than an hour's journey to the border) or one of the three gorgeous coastal roads, each of which is at a different altitude level as they cut through the steep cliffs of the coast.
There are also trains from Italian cities that will bring you right into the Riviera, and which are well coordinated with the connecting French trains on ours ide.
Transportation and getting around
Once you’ve arrived into Nice and the Riviera more generally, your transport options are quite varied. All the major cities and towns along the coast are connected by train, with regular service traveling between them all throughout the day. If you’re mostly planning to stick to the main towns, the train is extremely convenient and quite affordable.
There are also buses that will take you to some smaller towns both on and off the coast, but these don’t always run very frequently, so if you’re relying on them for a daily itinerary with multiple stops, you will lose a lot of time.
So, if you want to get up into the hinterland to visit little villages away from the coast (some of which are splendid), or if you want to hop around to the beaches outside of the cities, you will really need to have your own car.
Renting a car
For the most selection of cars and companies, renting your car in Nice is always a good idea. It’s the biggest city on the Riviera and has an international airport and busy train station. If you want to save some money, be sure to look at rentals in the city center in addition to the airport.
You also have rental agencies in Cannes, Antibes, Saint-Tropez (though very few), Sainte Maxime (also very few), and a few other towns.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
When to visit
There's a secret that the Riviera shares with Italy, Corsica, and other sun-drenched parts of southern Europe: the best time to visit is either just before the hottest time of year (summer) or just after it, but never during it.
Why? Because Nice and all of southern France can be scorchingly hot in summer. It’s not a lot of fun to explore the city while the midday sun beats down on you relentlessly, and although the beaches offer a respite from the heat, you will need to bring plenty of sunblock and make sure you find somewhere shaded. Don’t underestimate how hot it gets here in the summer.
Summer is also the busiest time of year (as it is basically everywhere), and crowds from around the world flock to Nice and the surrounding towns during this time. The atmosphere is certainly fun and festive, but prices are high, just about everything sells out, and tourism sort of dominates the city during this time.
Here’s some more information on what to expect at different times of year:
Best time to visit - late spring or the end of summer
As I said above, my recommendation is to come here either right before or right after the summer. In other words, come in April, May, or September if you can.
By doing so, you'll benefit from warm days where you can dress lightly and enjoy some time on the beach, but you won’t need to contend with oppressive heat. In the spring, you might want a sweater or light jacket for the evenings, but you’ll rarely be cold. This is also a good period for hikes in the mountains, so it really is the ideal time to visit for anyone who wants an active trip.
Being the shoulder season, you’ll also avoid the summer crowds, meaning lower prices and more availability for accommodation, restaurants, and tours/activities. This is also a chance to experience local life, when the town isn’t overrun by visitors.
While you might be tempted to come in October, and it certainly will still be pleasantly warm, this month is prone to thunderstorms (a natural consequence of the heat from the summer), so you can’t bank on having good weather.
Visiting in summer
I know I’ve already made clear that summer is not my recommended time to visit, but that doesn’t mean that it’s the wrong time, as it can be a lot of fun as long as you know what to expect and don’t mind the heat.
Summer is the busiest time of year in Nice and all throughout the Riviera, and the city bursts with life during this season. There are many festivals (jazz, electronic music, and more), open-air concerts, and other cultural events that take place during the summer months, so it’s great if you’re interested in music and theater.
Of course, you need to prepare to follow the rhythms of summertime here. Mornings are usually quiet and get started fairly late, but you should expect to get going earlier in the day to take advantage of the relative coolness during the mornings.
In the afternoon, find somewhere cool to escape to during the height of the midday heat (sitting in a cafe, visiting museums and galleries, taking a nap, etc.), and then head back out in the evening, when it starts to cool off again.
The city becomes increasingly active at night, with restaurants, bars, and nightclubs filling up, concerts taking place, and beach parties continuing late into the night.
Visiting between fall and winter
As I mentioned above, October sees heavy rains, but I do want to clarify that rain is still relatively infrequent during this month. It doesn’t rain every day or anything like that, but just know that when it does rain, it’s always torrential.
While November is drier, it starts to become a bit chilly, making a visit to a coastal destination less pleasant. Even so, it isn’t cold here in November (especially not for people coming from colder countries), and the crowds are almost entirely gone by this time, so it’s a good chance to see local life. You will also benefit from good prices and wide availability for hotels.
Now, things change a bit for the better in the winter. This is, of course, the coldest time of year (although it’s still quite mild for most people), but as I’ve mentioned above, Nice lies at the doorstep of the Alps, which means that winter sports are a distinct possibility here.
There’s great skiing to be had at nearby resorts (Isola 2000, Valberg...), and special trains and buses run during this time, taking you directly to the mountains. If you want to ski, Nice is a great base from which to do it.
The Nice carnival is held in February, which is another good reason to come here outside the warmer times of year.
Basically any time between October and March you need to know that there won't be as many terraces open, you won’t be able to swim in the sea (unless you’re very brave), and the weather will be chilly, although mild by most people’s standard.
Even so, the restaurants and bars will be full nonetheless: the city is always bustling with activity and students, and museums and galleries will all be open as well, so there will be no shortage of options for cultural visits.
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How long to spend
For most people, especially those planning to visit other parts of the Riviera (or wider France), I think 3 to 4 days is a good amount of time to spend in Nice. This gives you ample opportunity to comfortable explore the city center and other major areas/sights rather than flying past them, and to relax on the beach, get into the hinterland, or visit nearby towns and villages.
Here’s a quick potential 4-day itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive into Nice and spend a few hours strolling around the old town (you'll be coming back to it often) and the surrounding area. Later in the day, head to the seaside Promenade des Anglais, and enjoy a leisurely walk along the coast. If you’ve got good weather, take a dip in the sea.
Day 2: Take advantage of the cool morning air to head up to Castle Hill (Colline du Château), where you’ll have beautiful views over the city and coastline. You could follow this up with brunch in the old town or at the port. If it's a market day, head to the Cours Saleya market to check out the local goods. In the afternoon, why not spend some time on the beach or visit one of the many excellent museums?
Day 3: Enjoy a more leisurely morning today, and then head to the beach for a mid-to-late morning swim. Then spend some time wandering around any of the neighborhoods you haven’t seen yet (or ones you especially liked), and grab lunch somewhere.
In the afternoon, take the bus or walk to the upper district of the city, called Cimiez Hill, where you can visit the small but very remarkable archaeology museum, or one of the art museums (Musée Matisse, Musée Chagall, etc.). After, enjoy the view from the top of the hill, and then head back down. In the late afternoon, you can sit on the terrace of a bar on the Cours Saleya or enjoy an ice cream by the sea.
Day 4: If you're staying here for more than 3 days and have already got the hang of Nice, it’s time to branch out. By train, you can reach Cannes or Antibes to the west, or Monaco or Italy to the east: in both cases, it's less than an hour's journey.
If you want to explore the mountains and hinterland, a car will be your most practical means of transport, but otherwise the regional bus network is very efficient: the TAM buses will take you anywhere for a modest fare.
Where to stay
Being a global tourism hotspot, Nice has an incredible number of hotels and accommodations.
For the best value, there are many inexpensive hotels close to the airport, but these are more of a stop-over for travelers rather than somewhere to stay for an extended visit. Located around twenty minutes by tram from the city center, staying here won’t give you a chance to assimilate into local life.
Similarly, avoid hotels that are too close to the train station: as always in this type of area, they are noisy and not always pleasant.
For the best location, you should look at the area between the train station and the coastline, mostly around Avenue Jean Médecin. The Riquier district (behind the port) is a particularly good place to stay, thanks to its proximity to the old Palais des Congrès.
The big international hotel chains are always a safe bet, but you can also find more local, traditional establishments. Wherever you choose to stay, don't expect to pay less than 100 euros a night and remember that in the French Riviera, when it comes to prices, the sky is the limit.
Luxury
Hotel Le Negresco - If you have the budget for it, Le Negresco is certainly one of the most iconic properties on the Riviera, and probably all of France. The rooms are each unique and opulently decorated with sumptuous furniture and chic touches. In high season, expect to pay $800 USD and up.
Hôtel La Pérouse - With eye-watering prices to match the eye-watering views, this almost unbelievably refined hotel is among the most elegant on the Riviera. To call the decor delightful would be a massive understatement. Summer rates start around $800 USD, but can be found for half that in the fall.
Palais de la Méditerranée - With modern rooms that are refined and elegant, this waterfront hotel has long been one of Nice’s most classic. Rooms start at $450 USD per night.
Mid-range
Hotel Villa Victoria - Boutique hotel with cute decor and a lovely garden located just far enough away from the action to be close to it all while still affording peace and quiet. Rooms from around $300 USD.
Le Grimaldi - Colorful, eclectic, and pure Belle Epoque style in the heart of town. Expect to pay around $250 USD for a standard room in summer.
Hotel Nice Excelsior - Walking distance from the train station and the old town, this is a nice mid-range option with colorful rooms in a lovely historic building. Nightly rates from $200 USD.
Budget
Nice Garden Hotel - Simple, but tasteful rooms, a lovely little garden, and a location just steps from the Promenade des Anglais make this a solid budget choice. Rooms from $150 USD.
EasyHotel Centre des Congrès - This is an “apart-hotel” where rooms all have little kitchens which is quite nice if you want to save on meals. Even in the summer you can often snag a room for close to $100 USD.
Honorable mentions
If you’re looking to stay near the beach and want a festive atmosphere, there are two large hotels popular with locals for their rooftop parties: Aston La Scala and Anantara Plaza. Anantara Plaza is the nicer hotel of the two.
If you’re on a very tight budget or are just the kind of person who likes community life, the youth hostels located right in the heart of the city are a good bet. Les Camélias is basic but very pleasant, while La Maïoun Guesthouse is a bit nicer. Both offer beds in shared 3 or 4-bed forms for around 50 euros per person.
What to see and do
1. Explore the Old Town – the beating heart of the city
Even locals can't go a week without visiting the old town, the seaside Promenade des Anglais, or heading for a stroll up Castle Hill (Colline de Château). These sights are unmissable on any tour, because they’re fantastic, and are also right next to each other!
Stroll along the seafront, then explore the historic streets, which will naturally lead you towards the hill. So head up and take in the views, then return to the old town, grab an ice cream, and watch the sun set (if you’ve planned the day out right). This is a regular program for many of Nice's residents.
During your wanderings, you’ll also discover the Cathedral of Sainte-Réparate, the Church of Gesù (one of the first Baroque churches ever built in France), the very different and very cool Russian orthodox Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas de Nice, and the inricate Basilique Notre-Dame de l’Assomption.
You should also take the time to visit the Palais Lascaris, the former residence of a powerful Savoyard family who once ruled the region. It’s now a museum dedicated to musical instruments, but even if that doesn’t interest you, the building itself is fabulous.
For a bit of “far niente” (literally “doing nothing” - but by which I mean “leisure”), your first instinct will undoubtedly be to sit on a terrace on the Cours Saleya, a central square in the old town. But don't limit yourself to just this spot, which although pleasant, is quite touristy.
There are many great places to explore, and the bars on Rue de la Préfecture (near the courthouse - you can't miss it) are renowned. But take your time wandering around, listen to your instincts, and pop in anywhere that strikes you.
The Promenade des Anglais, beside the beach. Photo: Alexander Migl, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Visit the Cimiez neighborhood and catch the views from Cimiez Hill
Cimiez, accessible by bus or a good hour's walk from the old town, is the most chic district of the city. Here, you can enjoy views over the whole bay from the monastery gardens (which are very famous: brides and grooms come here every Saturday to have their photos taken), as well as make a visit to two of the city's finest museums: the Museum of Ancient Archaeology and the art museum dedicated to one of the most important Impressionist artists, Henri Matisse, who lived and worked here in his final years.
In addition to the museums and views, the neighborhood itself is lovely and elegant, so it’s very nice to spend a bit of time here just wandering around aimlessly and enjoying the scenery.
Looking at the Roman baths, Matisse museum, and Regina hotel from Cimiez Hill. Photo: Broenberr, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Do some shopping on Avenue Jean Medecin
If you find yourself looking for a bit of retail therapy at any point during your visit, head to Avenue Jean Médecin, which links the railway station and the old town. Filled with shops, this the perfect place to go if you want to pick something up or even just window shop.
Avenue Jean Medecin. Photo: Aeris06, Frédéric Oropallo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Relax on the beaches
This is the French Riviera after all, so no visit to Nice would be complete without ample time spent relaxing on the city’s fantastic beaches. But be forewarned: many visitors are unaware that Nice's beach, despite being 2.5 miles long, consists almost exclusively of pebbles, not fine sand.
You either like it or you don't, and if you don’t, then I suggest taking advantage of the sandy beach at Eze, a ten-minute train journey to the east.
Although there are several private beaches, the local council has had the good idea of leaving the coastal area in front of the historic centre almost completely open to the public. This is where the people of Nice prefer to go swimming: the beach is wider and and there are many bars and cafes just a few yards away. Be careful when you go for a swim: it gets deep quickly!
5. Walk along the Promenade du Paillon
Beginning down by the water at the lovely Jardin Albert Premier and continuing along to the MAMAC museum, the Promenade du Paillon is a lovely strip of green spaces, pedestrian walking paths, recreation areas, and stately squares. This is one of the most pleasant spots in the city to go for a stroll, and many major landmarks are found along it or on the streets branching off from it.
The iconic Fontaine du Soleil with its sculpture of Apollo is found here, as is the magnificent 19th century Place Masséna square. If you’re looking to spend an hour or two people watching, wandering, and just enjoying Nice, there are few better places to do it.
The Promenade du Paillon. Photo: SarahVstk, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Check out the flower market on Cours Saleya square
In terms of activities, a priority here should always be to discover local life. There are beaches everywhere in the world, so if you’ve come to Nice, it should be about the culture and the people in addition to the sea.
With that in mind, nothing beats a visit to the flower market on the Cours Saleya. It’s open every morning from Tuesday to Sunday and offers the widest range of plants and flowers at competitive prices.
The city’s impressive food market is also here, and on Monday’s the square holds a very neat flea market.
The market stalls in the Cours Saleya. Photo: Zairon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Get out into the surrounding countryside and visit the villages
Nice is lovely and is worth a few days in its own right, but if you’re here for more than a few days, you should absolutely get out into the countryside and visit the nearby villages.
For this, I suggest renting a car and making a full day trip out of it. Visiting the inland villages will put you in touch with wild nature and a past that is still kept very much alive here. The Riviera is dotted with ancient villages clinging to the mountainside everywhere; places where time seems to stand still and the warmth of the locals will take you by surprise. This is a totally under-appreciated (and little known) delight in the Riviera.
Discover Contes -perched on a rocky outcrop-, Entrevaux, with an astonishing fortified town on the side of a cliff, Levens - a village accessible by a charming road carved out of a deep valley -, or anywhere else you fancy.
Entreveux. Photo: joopwiki, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Ride the scenic Train des Merveilles
You can also take the Train des Merveilles, a magnificent rail journey through the mountains, to Sospel, Breil-sur-Roya, or even Tende. This line, built in the 19th century, was a technological feat at the time, as it climbs and crosses the mountains, following along the valleys and rivers.
Along the way, a free, very friendly guide gives explanations in French and English. If someone offers you a paid service on this train, do not accept it - there’s no need to pay for anything other than your train ticket.
A mountainous part of the route of the Train de Merveilles. Photo: Egaowakaii, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. Experience the art and culture
In terms of culture, you will be spoiled for choice in Nice:
For contemporary art, there is the Museum of Modern and Contemporary art - abbreviated to MAMAC.
For fine art, all the museums are named after a local or national figure: Chagal, Chéret, Jakovski, and Matisse museums are the big ones, but there are others.
For photography, the Charles Nègre museum is quite nice.
And we can’t forget the very intimate and beautiful Asian Arts museum, located in the equally beautiful Parc Phoenix near the airport, whose temporary exhibitions are always remarkable.
My other personal favourite is the Masséna museum: this former villa overlooking the sea is a museum of the luxurious life of the great families of the past and a museum of the city's history. By the way, it belonged to the family of a man from Nice who is very famous in France and even the world: Marshal André Masséna, one of Napoleon's most brilliant generals.
The Musée Masséna. Photo: Cayambe, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
10. Visit the history and heritage museums
In terms of history and heritage, you can choose between prehistory (Terra Amata museum), antiquity (Nice-Cimiez archaeology museum), the natural history museum (located just in front of the MAMAC), and the latest addition: the highly successful National Sports Museum.
And let's not forget Castle Hill, which is like an open-air museum.
The view out from MAMAC (the contemporary art museum). Photo: Bamzin at the Portuguese language Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Common
11. Make some day trips to the other cities of the Cote d’Azur
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere in this article, Nice is very conveniently located and well connected to the other cities and towns along the coast. So if you plan to use this city as your base and want to get out to some of the other highlights of the region, it’s super easy.
You can spend a day exploring Cannes, Antibes, and Menton, all of which are accessible by train. Cannes is famous for its Belle Epoque atmosphere and festival venues, while Antibes and Menton are best known for their charm and far more intimate atmosphere than what you find in Nice or the other bigger cities.
Antibes
Restaurants and dining
The food in Nice can be excellent, but as in any touristic place, the key is to discover the places frequented by locals rather than those intended for tourists. In local spots, you’ll eat great traditional food and will pay far more reasonable prices, so this is always the way to go.
The local cuisine
So what is the local cuisine? Well, it's all about the sun: courgettes, aubergines, tomatoes, olive oil, olives, fish, thyme, rosemary, basil and, of course, pasta.
For specific dishes, there’s the famous Niçoise salad, which you'll find everywhere, along with two other must-try specalties: pan bagnat - a kind of local sandwich -, and socca - a crispy flatbread made of chickpeas -.
Restaurants to try
You'll find good pan bagnat everywhere, but the one reputed to be the best is at Kiosque Tintin, in the Libération district (five minutes north of the train station).
When it comes to socca, two addresses dominate the old town of Nice: Lou Pilha Leva and René Socca. But don't miss Chez Pipo, in the port district. The first two are informal socca bars where you can eat at communal tables while drinking an old-fashioned glass of wine or beer. The third, Chez Pipo, is more of a restaurant, offering a wider choice
While we're on the subject of restaurants, there are a number of addresses that are familiar to everyone in Nice: in the city centre, you'll find Lou Balico, a small family restaurant where I recommend you go at lunchtime (the service is friendlier and atmosphere better at this time of day), and Lou Fran Calin in the old town.
Even the Cours Saleya, the city's tourist hub, has some excellent places to try out, which is surprising considering how touristy it is. Notably the Café des amis has friendly service and a good selection of wines and small plates to share.
L’Autobus, one of the best speciality restaurants in town is excellent but a little more complicated to get to, as it's out on the Gairaut hill. You can get there by car or bus numbers 35, 63 or 76. This spot is fancier and more expensive than the others that I’ve recommended, but is well worth the price.
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