Visiting Peru in December
December is arguably the most idiosyncratic month for a visit to Peru. On the coast, it is the start of beach season, while in the Andes and Amazon rainforest the wet season has settled in to stay.
It isn't an idyllic month for extensive countrywide explorations and packing can be a bit of nightmare. Yet, prices are high and tourist sites crowded (mainly in the latter half of the month) simply because this is an insanely popular travel time worldwide.
While December is definitely not our favorite month for a visit to Peru, you shouldn’t discount coming altogether if this is the time you have. Read on for crucial details that may tip the scales for you one way or the other.
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What to expect when visiting in December
For those thinking about coming in December, it’s important to have realistic expectations about what you’ll be able to do and where you should spend most of your time.
For avid hikers looking to do multi-day treks in the Andes or Amazon, be forewarned; the risk of getting rained out in December is very real. However, if you’re more interested in day hikes in the Andes, are thinking of taking the train to Machu Picchu, or plan on boat rides in the Amazon instead of walks, a little rain won’t stop you.
With this in mind, extended stays in the Andes and Amazon probably aren’t going to be as rewarding as at other times of year simply because of the number of rainy days. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing - the whole stretch of coast, with plenty of nice beaches and countless stunning archeological sites like Chan Chan and the Nazca lines, is in its prime season.
So, you could plan on more time in Paracas, Ica, Nazca, and Trujillo instead of Cusco, Huaraz, and Iquitos or Puerto Maldonado. There’s always time for a return visit…
Visiting the Andean highlands in December is certainly doable, but because of the rain and the Christmas holiday it takes good advance planning in order to ensure that things run smoothly.
In the Amazon, increased rainfall translates to higher river water levels, which entirely determine the kind of activities you can do in the rainforest. Trails in the jungle may be flooded or too wet to hike, limiting what you can see. However, rain is ever present in the Amazon, and every trip is rewarding, no matter the time of year.
Meanwhile, down from the mountains the entire coast of Peru is enjoying the start of its busiest and best season. Beach towns are gearing up for the big crowds with summer activities and events, fun festivals, and late-night parties. Surfers also descend en mass to enjoy the world-famous waves with a bit of good weather. December is busy and pricey on the coast, but it's also a very fun and friendly time.
If you’re coming in December, we strongly recommend coming in the first two weeks of the month. As you get closer to Christmas and New Year, not only do prices skyrocket and crowds increase dramatically, but you’ll also get significantly worse weather.
Weather
December in Peru is full-on wet season, and those light November rains have by now made themselves at home. That said, while the Andean highlands and Amazon are starting to see daily rain, Lima and the coast stay warm and dry.
Lima sees temperatures around 75°F (24°C) in December, increasing as the month progresses. Up north, Mancora boasts 78°F (26°C) days, 68°F (20°C) nights, and a cool breeze.
While air temps are rising on the coast, keep in the mind that the Humboldt Current keeps sea temperatures perennially cooler regardless of the time of year, and especially so along the central stretch. There's minimal chance of rain and around 30% cloud cover. It’s peak season on the coast for a reason!
In the highlands of Peru, be it in Cusco or Huaraz, expect mild(ish) temperatures ranging between 68°F (20°C) during the day and 45°F (7°C) at night. The increasing cloud cover and rains keep the temperatures moderate, but wet.
Bucket-list Christmas visits to Machu Picchu continue to be popular year after year despite the crowds and prices, which tells you that the weather must be at least alright. The accompanying crowds are unfortunately a bit less pleasant…
In the Amazon, temperatures remain pretty constant throughout the year, and in December you’ll see temps of around 83°F (28°C) during the day and 74°F (23°C) at night. Rains are frequent this time of year, as are humidity levels of about 80%.
Don’t let those statistics scare you off - the only people who genuinely notice increased rain and humidity in the Amazon are those who live in the rainforest. For us visitors, an Amazon trip is always a time for hot and sticky days and nights.
Events
A host of December festivals and events add to the appeal of a summer (for South America) visit to Peru. It's the start of summer, much-needed rains are finally drenching and replenishing the countryside, and we’re about to ring in the new year - there is much to celebrate!
Peruvian Independence Day - Ayacucho
On December 9, 1824, Peruvian liberation forces triumphed over the Spanish at the Battle of Ayacucho, leading to Peru’s independence and ultimately the liberation of most of South America. This remarkable event is celebrated from December 2 in Quinua, a district of Ayacucho, with a series of week-long festivities that include sporting events, cultural activities, and displays of local crafts.
Inmaculada Concepción - Countrywide
On December 8, Peru commemorates the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. However, unlike most of the Catholic world, Peru’s festivities do not celebrate Mary’s virgin conception of Jesus, but rather her conception. According to tradition, Mary - the daughter of Saint Joachim and Saint Anne - was born without original sin, so this day celebrates her ‘immaculate’ birth.
From one region to the next in Peru, the celebrations usually involve vibrant and colorful street processions with plenty of music, dancing and traditional food.
Virgen de la Puerta - Otuzco
The city and province of Otuzco, east of Trujillo, hold the Virgen de la Puerta (Virgin of the Gate) in the highest regard. The statue has been associated with several miracles since it was credited with preventing a pirate invasion in 1674.
The image of the virgin is a revered religious symbol in all of Northern Peru, and people from all over congregate each year to participate in its 3-day procession – from December 12 to 15. A wonderful cultural experience if you're heading up the north coast of Peru!
Santuranticuy Festival - Cusco
Santuranticuy is a traditional Christmas festival celebrated in Cusco, the famed base for visits to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. Artisans and vendors from around the country descend on Plaza de Armas to sell (primarily) traditional decorations for nativity sets and Christmas trees. Hand-carved and embroidered dolls, figurines, fabrics and pictures take over the plaza, attracting buyers from all over the continent.
Buying something from these merchants is believed to bring the purchaser great luck in the new year. Naturally, you can expect plenty of music, dancing, processions and traditional food.
Danza de Tijeras – Huancavelica
For an exceptionally unique cultural Christmas experience, head to the high-altitude town of Huancavelica. From December 24 to 27, the city hosts a festival of the ‘scissor dance’ (Danza de Tijeras), a traditional Andean performance that showcases incredible skill and athleticism.
The dance emerged during the middle of the 19th century when traditional Andean music was most vibrant and is defined by the rhythmic cutting of scissors, accompanied by an array of colourful clothing, panpipes and drums. The fiesta re-enacts and celebrates a legendary battle of two men competing for a woman's hand in marriage. This is, by far, one of Peru's most colourful yet lesser-known cultural events.
Pro tip: Huancavelica is a fascinating highland town that’s so far off the tourist trail that most foreigners have never even heard of it. It's about a five-hour drive inland from the coast south of Lima and sits at a dizzying altitude of 12,000 feet (3,676 meters). Like all of its provincial neighbors, its inhabitants are mostly of indigenous Quechua origin.
The town boasts a fascinating history, enchanting culture, a lovely colonial core, and stunning surrounding landscapes dotted with archaeological sites. December is the wettest month in Huancavelica, but for intrepid travelers with waterproof gear, it’s also a fascinating time to explore the region.
Where to visit in December
As mentioned, you’ll probably have a more enjoyable time if you plan your visit to Peru for the first two weeks of December and if you allocate a bit more time to the coast than the highlands or jungle. If you're planning a Christmas visit, just be sure to prepare yourself for the cost and get ready to celebrate with the crowds – and a lot of rain.
The Coast
December is party time on the coast of Peru, a month when beaches – and their services – are at their best. The super lively and buzzy atmosphere is either enticing or not… and that's for you to decide. If the high temps and sunny skies entice you, know that the coast of Peru is ridiculously long and traveling up or down from Lima is easy.
There's a beach town for everyone here –upmarket or laid-back, busy or quiet. Yes, even in December! Because of the distances involved, you’ll really need to focus on either the North Coast or the South Coast.
The Andes
In the Andean highlands, clouds and rains appear in the early morning and from lunchtime onwards. Aim for a 9 am to 12 pm window for the most photogenic spots. Half-day hikes can be enjoyable this month, or full-day excursions if you don't mind waterlogged trails and a probable afternoon drenching. Avoid late December if you don’t want to deal with daily rainfall.
Conditions hold true throughout the Andes, be that the southern highlands around Cusco, the central highlands around Ayacucho, or the cordilleras surrounding Huaraz.
The Amazon
The Tambopata Nature Reserve is a swath of virgin Amazon forest near the border with Bolivia. This southern selva is close to Cusco, and a favorite for quick, last-minute trips and easy add-ons to short visits focused on Cusco and Machu Picchu. Tambopata is revered by outdoor adventurers who want a mix of land and river-based adventures in the Amazon.
This month, the reserve transforms into a flooded forest paradise, attracting nesting macaws en mass. Less off-the-beaten-path than Iquitos in the north and both more affordable and easier to access, this section of the Peruvian Amazon is a wonderful option for December trips.
What to do in December
Hit the beach
Locals and tourists besiege beach resorts in December. However, finding a quieter seaside alternative is not difficult if you keep away from well-developed tourist towns.
If you don't want to veer far from Lima, then head down to the stunning desert beaches of Paracas, up to the northern beaches at Tuquillo, or way north to catch wicked waves in Mancora – although the latter's reputation means it isn't nearly as quiet and 'hidden' as it once was. Generally, most beachgoers in Peru like amenities – a lot of amenities. If you find a beach on the map with no rental umbrellas and food stands, count on it being quieter.
Learn to surf
Peru is a world-famous surfing destination, home to some of the biggest and longest waves. Surf camps have sprung up all over the coast, and December is a great time to dedicate a few days to getting the hang of the exhilarating sport. It's cheaper here than in most other renowned surfing countries, even this month.
Popular destinations for beginners are Punta Negra and Punta Hermosa, as well as Mancora and Huanchaco. Because modern times, many camps offer a combo of surf & yoga retreats.
Visit Machu Picchu
Unless you’ve been here before, it makes no sense to skip a visit to the country’s crowning jewel because of rain! The train schedules change from mid-December due to higher chances of landslides, so you know trails will be soaked, and chances of rain will be high.
Still, Machu Picchu is magical, no matter what. Enjoy a less hurried visit and fewer tourists around – and the ethereal scenery drenched in low clouds and mist.
Stay in an Amazon Lodge
Splurging on a high-end lodge stay in the Amazon is a phenomenal way to enjoy a December trip in Peru. Given the excessive heat and downpours, luxury lodges' air-conditioned cabins and larger communal areas are ideal.
This is a great way to add more comfort to an otherwise arduous stay in the rainforest. Plus, spending Christmas day sitting comfortably on a covered terrace watching the world's most luscious rainforest get drenched by rain, with Pisco sour in hand, is a truly remarkable experience.
Spend Christmas in Cusco
With its intoxicating blend of ancient tradition and Catholic symbolism, Cusco offers a fantastic – and rather unique – Christmas experience. The yearly Santuranticuy festival and a joyous, all-inclusive atmosphere overtake the town.
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