A Local's Guide to Visiting Sifnos, Greece
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Nicknamed the ‘Island of harmony’, Sifnos packs a lot into its 74 square kilometers (28.5 square miles). A sophisticated, serene little island with a cliffy coast interrupted by deep inlets and sandy beaches, its rolling terraced hills are dotted with pretty whitewashed villages built to a human scale.
Although the gold and silver mines that made it fabulously wealthy in antiquity have long run dry, Sifnos exudes a sense of contentment and well-being. Because it has no airport, it has little boutique hotels and family guest houses instead of big resorts.
It isn’t an island with must see-attractions—and so far it has managed to keep most of the cruise ships away. Instead, Sifnos invites you to linger, to discover its gentle rhythms, slow pace of life, and harmony.
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Table of Contents
Why visit
What is Sifnos known for
Where is Sifnos
How to get to Sifnos
Transportation and getting around
Best time to visit
Where to stay
Things to see & do
Best beaches on Sifnos
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Where is Sifnos
Why visit Sifnos
A visit to Sifnos is ideal for travelers looking to spend time on an authentic Greek island with a relaxed and slow pace of life. The island has a number of stunning villages to explore, sandy beaches with calm waters, good hiking trails, and a ceramic-making tradition that goes back four thousand years, with workshops open to visitors.
Sifnos also has an excellent food and dining scene, and is home to some of the best restaurants in the Cyclades.
What is Sifnos known for
Sifnos is famous for its soft sandy beaches and the pure Cycladic architecture of its older villages that resemble bowls of sugar cubes spilled over the land. Its steep hills are corrugated with terraces, a souvenir from the centuries when the islanders had to grow most of their own food. Sifnos is not as arid as many of the other Cyclades, so there’s still a fair amount of agriculture; the island makes superb olive oil.
Sifnos’s reputation for its food and chefs dates back over a century, after it produced modern Greece’s first cookbook writer, Nikos Tselementes. He was first in a long line of well-known island chefs; in summer it’s not unusual for a super yacht to anchor offshore just so the passengers can eat dinner in one of the island’s excellent restaurants.
Along with creative Mediterranean dishes you’ll find classic Sifniot dishes such as mastelo, succulent lamb slow cooked in red wine, and revythada, chick pea stew, baked overnight in rain water.
Conveniently, the earthenware vessels essential for making these dishes are also made on Sifnos, thanks to its abundant fine clay. Pottery has been manufactured here for over 4,000 years. Today 19 pottery workshops across Sifnos carry on the tradition.
Sifnos attracts a mix of beach lovers, foodies, families (its sandy beaches are safe for small children) and upmarket visitors in search of authenticity. If you want to bask in an all-inclusive resort, or while your days away on a sunbed with fancy cocktails at your beck and call, or want to dance the night away at clubs, Sifnos is not an island for you.
How to get to Sifnos
One reason why Sifnos is relatively unspoiled is because it doesn’t have an airport. The only way to get there is by sea. Your main options are to take a ferry from Athens, Greece’s capital city, or from the islands of Serifos, Milos, & Kythnos, all of which have direct service to Sifnos. Bear in mind that departures are far less frequent over the winter months.
As a general rule, you pay more for speed: high-speed Sea Jet tickets cost about 50% more than the slower ferries, and as with flights, the earlier you book your ticket, the cheaper the fares.
The nearest airport is on Milos, but it’s small and only takes domestic flights, so unless you’re planning to visit Milos prior to Sifnos, flying won’t save any time and certainly not any money.
Where to book ferry tickets
To check schedules and prices, I recommend using Ferry Scanner which is an aggregator that shows options from a bunch of different ferry companies. Their schedules are always up to date, it’s easy to use, and the price difference between using them and booking direct is negligible.
Main connecting ports
From Athens: Ferries from Athens’ port of Piraeus to Sifnos depart almost daily. The journey takes from 2.5 – 5 hours depending on schedules and the ship, and tickets cost $45-70, one way. Many ferries on this route also call at the islands of Serifos and Milos.
From Milos: Sea Jets to Sifnos take 45 minutes; a one-way ticket costs around $38.
From Santorini: The fastest sailing time is just under 3 hours; a one way ticket will be around $103.
From Naxos: Direct connections from Naxos to Sifnos are infrequent and begin in March; on Sea Jets the journey takes 4.5 hours and costs around $105.
Getting around Sifnos
Sifnos is decently served by public transport in the summertime, but rather tough to get around in winter.
In summer, there are local buses almost every hour during the daytime that go between the island’s villages and some of its beaches. In the evening and nighttime service slows down, with buses only every couple hours.
In winter, you only have two or three buses a day.
Bus tickets on Sifnos cost $2—$2.50. While in summer you can move around by bus, you won’t be able to get everywhere you want to go and you’ll lose a lot of time. To get to secluded beaches, good hikes, interesting sites, and anything not directly between one town or another, you’ll be out of luck. For serious exploring, you’ll need to rent a car, jeep, motorbike/ATV, or e-bike.
There are also taxis on Sifnos, but you cannot hail them on the street. All journeys will need to be reserved in advance. To hire a taxi, call +30 697 320 9720 or +30 697 320 9720.
Where to find a car rental
Most car rentals have to be picked up in the town of Kamares, by the port. You have a couple agencies also in Apollonia.
For car rentals, check out Suntrail or Elmar. Motor bikes and ATV’s can be rented with Protomotocar and you can rent an e-bike with Sifnos Bike Experience.
If you’re planning on renting a car, I also always recommend checking prices on DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can find great deals.
When to visit Sifnos
Spring
Sifnos is at its most beautiful in the spring, when much of it is green and the temperatures are perfect for trekking over the hills. Most people find the sea on a sheltered beach warm enough for a swim by late May. The island’s biggest annual festival at Panagia Chrissopigi takes place on Orthodox Ascension Day (Analypseos), in late May or June, which is also huge fun.
Summer
July and August are the hottest, busiest and most expensive months, especially August when all of Europe goes on vacation; this is also when the northerly meltemi wind (the ‘air conditioning’ of the Aegean) blows strongest and can make for rough seas and ferry cancellations, which is something to consider when booking flights to and from Athens.
Fall
September into early October are idyllic weeks on Sifnos, when the kids go back to school. It’s still warm enough to bask on the beach and swim in the sea, and cool enough for long walks--plus hotel prices tumble down. For three days in the middle of September, the island hosts the annual Cycladic Gastronomy Festival Nikolaos Tselemedes in the village of Artemonas, featuring visiting chefs from each island in the archipelago, preparing their local specialities.
The autumn rains usually arrive in mid-October, although these days the rains are harder to predict.
How many days to spend on Sifnos
To visit Sifnos, allow a minimum of 3 days to take in the highlights—the beautiful villages, landscapes and beaches without rushing. While not enough time to do the island justice, with 3 days you can see the highlights—the villages of Kastro, Apollonia and Artemonas, hit the beaches at Kamares and Platys Gialos, take a day cruise, and sample some of the island’s great restaurants.
Ideally, you’d stay at least a week to get a real feel for the island, to see everything there is to see, to try out a good range of its restaurants, and to let its tranquil, slow-paced life offer a real break from the stresses of the 21st century. In summer, there will lots to see and do—concerts, art exhibitions and at least one village festival (paniyiri) with feasting, live music and dancing will happen while you’re there.
On the whole, Sifnos is an island for being rather than seeing. Many visitors fall in love with it and return year after year; linger long enough to find out why.
For a guide on how to spend a few days on Sifnos, check out my 2-day Sifnos itinerary.
Connect with Luca in Sifnos for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips for a better visit!
Where to stay on Sifnos
Unlike many islands, accommodation is fairly evenly spread across Sifnos and there are all types of options - hotels, studios, apartments and budget guesthouses. Nearly all are small, family run, and should be booked well in advance in summer. If money’s no object, or you are visiting as a family or group of friends, consider renting a villa. There are beautiful ones on Sifnos, some with private pools.
If you’re looking to stay somewhere with a bit more going on in the summer, focus on the villages of Kamares, Platys Gialos and Apollonia. For quieter stays, consider Vathi or Artemonas.
Kamares
If you want to be near a beach, enjoy beautiful sunsets, and have a good selection of tavernas and bars, shops, and activities, base yourself in Kamares.
Oniropagida studios, all built in stone, are in a peaceful location above Kamares, with grand views over the sea.
Hotel Afroditi, away from the hustle and bustle but only steps from the beach, is cheap and cheerful.
Makis Camping, the one campsite on the island is here
Platys Gialos
Platys Gialos on the south coast is especially popular with Greek families who want to be right on the beach.
Hotel Platys Gialos offers contemporary suites and a delicious breakfast a two-minute walk from the sands.
Cyclades Beach Hotel is also mere steps from the beach and is one of the few hotels to stay open out of season.
Vathi
Vathi on the southwest coast is a quieter choice, with a beach that’s sheltered from the meltemi winds.
Elies Resort, set back a bit from the sea with a large sea water pool and spa, is a good option for couples or families.
Artemonas
Wind Mill Sifnos is an upscale, boutique hotel with spectacular views in a quiet setting outside of Artemonas.
Smaragadi Hotel is a pleasant little 3-star option offering a really good cost-benefit ratio.
Apollonia
The stylish Gerofinikas Boutique Hotel or the Petali Village Hotel (if you don’t mind a lot of steps) are both located just outside the island capital, Apollonia.
Things to see & do on Sifnos
1. Go hiking
One of the best things to do on Sifnos is walk: a network of 19 trails, some dating back to the Bronze Age, crisscross the land and allow you to slowly drink in the beauty of the countryside.
Along the way you’ll find impressive dry stone walls, windmills (most of them minus their sails), 360 gleaming whitewashed churches and chapels, ancient mines, dovecots, and the ruins of a series of 5th-century BC signalling towers - Sifnos has 77, more than all the other Cycladic islands combined.
The most unforgettable walk is the trek up to Profítis Ilias tou Psilou Monastery (678m/2,237ft) at the island’s highest point, site of a fortress-like monastery dedicated to the Prophet Elijah, dating from the 8th century; the trail begins southwest of Apollonia and takes about two hours: the reward is spectacular views over the entire island and beyond.
For a look at all the trails, check out - https://sifnostrails.com.
2. Take an e-bike tour
Based in Apollonia, Sifnos Bike Experience offers an excellent way to see the best of Sifnos if time is short. Choose between a tour through the villages, the countryside, or the ‘ultimate sunset tour’.
3. Cruise the sea on a traditional wooden boat
Aegeas Cruises and Amanda Boat tours, both based in Platys Gialos, offer full day cruises including lunch and refreshments to the isolated beaches of Sifnos or the spectacular volcanic islet of Poliegos, a Natura 2000 site—the choice will depend on the weather.
4. Take a cooking lesson
On this food-obsessed island, consider taking a cooking lesson: the organic family-run Narlis Farm just outside Apollonia offers tours of the farm and classes on how to prepare traditional Sifniot dishes.
5. Visit ceramic workshops
While every village on Sifnos has at least one ceramics shop, workshops are concentrated in Kamares, Artemonas, and Platys Gialos. A few welcome visitors, including Yiannis Apostolides whose pottery is located just outside Kamares, Lempesis in Artemonas (best to ring ahead, +30 22840 32010), and Atsonios in Vathi.
6. Wander around Apollonia
The pretty capital of Sifnos, Apollonia is located in the centre of the island. Named after the god Apollo, it’s a showcase of Cycladic architecture, immaculately white washed, and lively after dark in summer when its bars and restaurants along the Steno or ‘nightlife alley’ attract people from across the island. In the main square, there’s a little folklore museum on Plateia Iroon, open summer evenings
7. Check out Artemonas
Apollo’s twin sister is Artemis, the goddess of the hunt, and Artemonas is Apollonia’s twin village just to the north, where the multi-domed church of Panagia Koghis occupies the site of the goddess’s ancient temple. Artemonas is the swankier of the two villages, with a number of late 19th-century Neoclassical houses, and lovely views across the island from the belvedere near the windmills.
8. Get lost in Kastro
The ancient and medieval capital of Sifnos, Kastro sits high on a cliff over the sea under a ruined Venetian castle. Wander through its labyrinth of narrow streets, designed to confuse invaders, dotted with ancient columns, Roman urns and reliefs from centuries gone by; the most precious artefacts are housed in the little Archaeology Museum.
There are some nice bars in Kastro and a few rooms to rent, and fish tavernas down by the little pebble beach of Seralia. After visiting Kastro, walk down to the little blue domed chapel of Epta Martyron, isolated on a rocky cape, then follow the beautiful coastal path to another picturesque seaside church, Panagia Poulati.
9. Try rock climbing
The cliffs around Kamares have been equipped with 70 rock climbing routes although you’ll need to bring all your own ropes and equipment. Check out Sifnos Climbing if you’re interested.
10. Visit a Mycenaean acropolis
Located on a commanding hilltop with views down to the sea, the church of Agios Andreas stands in the midst of Sifnos’s most important archaeological site: the recently excavated walls and towers of a Mycenaean Acropolis dating from the 12th century BC, along with the foundations of five buildings that were inhabited into the 8th century BC and beyond. A little archaeology museum on the site helps to make sense of it all.
Luca has answers!
Connect with Luca in Sifnos for insider advice, local tips, and help planning a better trip!
Best beaches on Sifnos
Platys Gialos
Located on the south coast, sandy Blue Flag Platys Gialos is second longest beach on Sifnos and the liveliest in summer (if it’s too lively, you can hire a dinghy, canoe, RIB or sailboat for a day from Bloo Marine.
Platys Gialos also boasts superb restaurants, including the fish bar Omega 3 - which has counted Jeff Bezos and Tom Hanks among its clients.
Kamares
Conveniently located near the ferry port, this long sandy Blue Flag beach on the west coast enjoys magnificent sunsets; it’s well endowed with bars and tavernas, and the Sifnos Diving Center.
Vathi
Set back in a deep bay, this sheltered beach is protected from the wind and gently shelves into crystal waters, making it a good bet for small children. Trees provide shade and there are good tavernas nearby.
Chrissopigi
The prettiest of the three sandy beaches near the south coast village of Faros, Chrissopigi has tamarisks and a taverna. Combine a visit with the picturesque church of the island’s patron saint, Panagia Chrissopigi, built in 1650 and a favourite for weddings and baptisms.
Cheronissos
This little sandy beach is an unspoilt fishing village in the far north of Sifnos, with trees and a handful of places to eat and drink; it’s perfect for spending a lazy day away from the crowds.
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