Valparaíso is the capital of the Chilean region of the same name and one of the most important ports in Chile. It’s the third largest urban area in the country, with a population of 300,000 people, increasing to almost a million if we include the surrounding metro area.

The city is located 75 miles northwest of Santiago along the Pacific Coast and it’s a key center for politics, trade, and commerce. It’s the seat of our National Congress and the headquarters of our Navy. Since the 19th century, it has also been an important stopover for large-sized vessels such as cruise ships that each year bring in thousands of tourists to the city.

Known as the ‘Jewel of the Pacific’ (a slightly optimistic nickname, in my opinion!), Valpo is built over 44 rolling hills around a half-moon bay, and together with the city’s colorful Victorian-style architecture, gives it a unique atmosphere, and one that at times feels like being inside an enormous amphitheater.

The city is full of winding narrow roads and alleys that lead from the downtown area (near the port) up to the higher sections along the hillsides. There are 22 cable cars/trams and endless stairs that can take you all over this UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.

Valpo is also always buzzing with artisans selling handicrafts, vendors hawking goods, merchants negotiating and coordinating shipments, and live music floating on the air all around. The streets are also full of fantastic street art, turning the whole city into an open-air theater. This has always been an inspiring place which is why many famous Chilean artists, like poet Pablo Neruda and cartoonist Lukas, lived here.

In short, Valparaiso is a lovely, lively, Bohemian place that should be on any Chile itinerary.

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Why visit?

Valparaiso was Chile’s main commercial port for centuries, and many of the country’s “firsts” were here, adding to its historical value. For example, Chile’s first railroad, telegraph, newspaper, and fire station were all built here.

It was Valpo that was the economic and industrial engine that brought Chile into the 20th century with a great economic boom. With the boom came the charming Victorian-style houses which have resisted not only the test of time but also devastating earthquakes.

And each time the city faces a tragedy, it quickly rebuilds. This accounts for its architectural mix with foreign influences brought by colonies of immigrants from different countries that settled across different neighborhoods as trade opportunities increased.

With the decline of ships and trade passing through the city, economic power moved elsewhere and the city fell on somewhat hard times. The once grand Victorian buildings now have a slightly run down air and the feeling of faded glory is everywhere. The once innovative trams that run up and the city’s hills are now gloriously rickety (not so glorious, however if you need to use them every day as a means of transport).

But with this fall from grace has come at least one major positive - relatively cheap housing prices. And with cheap housing come artists, restaurateurs, and creative people of all types, imbuing the city with an energy and creativity found nowhere else in Chile.

Aside from the historical importance and the great cultural scene here, Valpo (as the locals call it) is also just an all around atmospheric place to spend a few days. It’s exceedingly different from Santiago too, so visiting provides an interesting contrast.

And, of course, all those high hills offer up endless fabulous viewpoints from which to admire the glistening Pacific Ocean.

A brief modern history

Most visitors to Chile don’t know this, but Santiago only became a major city once the Panama Canal opened in 1914. Why? Because the canal provided an option for vessels coming from Europe to reach the pacific in a more direct route, which meant they didn’t need to pass by Valparaiso anymore.

Previously, boats had to pass through the Strait of Magellan and Cape Horn at the far southern extreme of Chile, and then head north. Ships would stop at Valparaiso during their northward journey, bringing the city trade, money, and ultimately political power too.

The Panama canal let boats cut this entire South American section out of their journey. Chile’s focus therefore shifted away from the coast and more to industry inland, and Santiago rose as the the nation’s premier city. Valparaíso thus became a bit of a backwater with relatively little national and international importance.

Today, it remains a fairly important port and the gateway for goods entering the country and the departure point for resources and products being shipped to markets abroad. It is also the seat of Chile’s national congress, a major porto of call for cruise ships, and a center of artistic and Bohemian life. Commercial fishing is also an important industry.

Where is Valparaíso?

One fun fact is that Valparaíso is the name of three things: the city, its bay, and the Administrative Region where it is located. This can lead to some confusion unless you have proper context!

So, the city of Valparaíso, the focus of this article, is approximately 75 miles northwest of Santiago, Chile’s capital. It is located right on the Pacific Ocean, almost 2,000 kms south of the Chile-Peru border and some 3,000 kms north of the city of Puntarenas in Chile’s far south.

Valparaiso, and the Pacific, are separated from Santiago by the Chilean Coastal Range, a long spine of mountains that lie west of the Andes and run all the way north almost to Chile’s border with Peru.

Between the mountains and the coast is the verdant and fertile Casablanca Valley, a wine-producing region where you can find some excellent white wines. The coastline all around is hilly, with frequent breaks in the ridge line where you’ll find little fishing villages and sandy beaches.

Valparaíso bay itself is mainly divided into two sections, the city of Valparaíso to the south and the city of Viña del Mar to the north. As I mentioned before, Valparaiso city unfolds along 44 hills, all lined on a crescent moon-shape bay. So, the “amphitheater” looks like this: the port is the stage and the curving hills are the audience’s seats.

The road between Valparaíso and Santiago, highway 68, is completely paved and a very good highway. It includes very few tolls and is heavily trafficked, especially with large trucks carrying goods due to be shipped all over the world from Valparaiso’s port.

How to get here

To get to Valparaiso from Santiago, your only options are a bus or a car. There are no passenger trains available between both cities, just cargo freight. Another option is via a tour operator, which offer shared or private trips either on buses or small vans.

Arriving by bus

Several companies run bus routes from Santiago to Valparaíso, departing from Santiago’s inter-regional bus station, and you normally have departures every 30 minutes all throughout the day and night. The bus ride takes approximately 2 hours. It’s a bit slower than traveling by car due to the difference in the speed limit for buses.

You’ll see that companies offer semi-cama (half-way reclining seat) and cama (fully reclining seat) options, which are more expensive than a traditional seat, but also make the journey far more comfortable. You can check timetables and rates on these websites featuring both Spanish and English dashboards: https://kupos.cl/en and https://www.recorrido.cl/en

Prices for bus tickets actually change throughout the year, but on average they cost roughly $5,000 Chilean Pesos, or $5 USD.

Taking a tour/private transfer

If you want to skip the bus, but also don’t feel like driving, then you can hire a private transfer or a day tour. You can ask your hotel concierge to arrange either option for you.

Alternatively, if you’re at the Santiago airport and want to head straight to Valparaíso, you can request a transfer at the booth of any of the authorized companies.

Driving

Driving to Valparaiso is super easy since Chile’s highways are mostly in great shape, and the road from Santiago is direct. If you’re doing a road trip, then renting a car on the day you leave Santiago is a good idea. It’s about a 1.5 hour drive from Santiago.

If you plan on renting a car, I also always recommend checking prices on the website DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.

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How long to spend

I really love this city and I enjoy it equally every time I come back for a new visit! The inspiration alone of walking through the same streets that helped artists such as Pablo Neruda hone their passion is amazing. I could spend weeks here!

For the average visitor with limited time in their itinerary, I would recommend a 2-day stay in Valparaiso. This gives you enough time to get a solid introduction to the city without having to make a mad dash through just a few “must visits”. You’ll have time to see some of the different neighborhoods (which are quite different from each other), hop on and off the trams, visit a museum or two, and just enjoy wandering. You could also slip away for half a day to see somewhere like Viña del Mar or go do some wine tasting in the nearby Casablanca Valley.

That said, if you have limited time or are hoping to visit from Santiago, you can reasonably visit the city on a day trip. You won’t get to enjoy the evening (which I think is the best time to be here), but you’ll be able to see the main sights, wander around the most interesting neighborhoods, and maybe even squeeze in a very quick visit to Viña del Mar next door.

Best time to visit

Because of its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, which helps regulate temperatures, Valparaíso has a moderate and stable climate all year round, just like most coastal cities in our country.

I personally enjoy visiting in the spring and autumn seasons because the city is not very crowded.

An interesting fact that you might not know is that Valparaíso experiences two particular weather effects. The first is that most of the year the days will be cloudy until noon and then things clear up, revealing bright sunshine.

The second one is that there is a frequent fog called camanchaca which is very dense and tends to enter the bay and even reach the nearby valley of Casablanca, providing the area with a special microclimate. This occurs mainly during the winter season, and it increases the windchill factor in the city.

Temperatures in the city vary widely throughout the day, although the fluctuations tend to be minor in comparison to a valley city like Santiago.

Summer (December to March)

Most Chileans travel to Valparaíso during this season, because they often take their vacations during February and this is also when schools are on summer break. Also, this is the only season when it isn’t very cloudy. And although it’s summer, temperatures are never too high, ranging between 58° F and 66° F.

Many people flock to the city around New Year for its famous celebrations. Valparaíso hosts one of the biggest and best firework shows in the world within the bay. This is sponsored by the City Hall and it is, of course, free to watch.

Autumn (March to June)

This is considered mid-season (media estación) in Chile. The weather is still very similar to the summer months, but with autumnal orange hues coloring the city. Daily temperatures range between 55° F and 61° Fahrenheit.

Valparaíso is home to important universities such as Universidad Católica de Valparaíso and Federico Santa María. Therefore, this season is marked by the return or arrival of college students from the surrounding areas.

Winter (June to September)

This is the coldest and rainiest season. Cloudy days and dense fog are almost a daily occurrence. Average rainfall is only about 4 inches, so still relatively mild. Temperatures are relatively moderate due to being on the coast, but the windchill factor makes it feel colder than it is. Having a raincoat and a decent winter coat are a necessity this time of year. Daily temperatures range between 47° F and 56° F.

Throughout the winter the city is less crowed as there are few domestic tourists and students have winter break, so university students return home to visit their families.

Something else to keep in mind is this old Chilean saying: “Don’t eat shellfish during months without an R in their name.” Months without an R would be the ones from May to August. Because of this (somewhat nonsensical) saying, a not insignificant percentage of the population doesn’t eat shellfish in this period. The result is that if you do order it at restaurants, it may not be super fresh as there is relatively low turnover on inventory.

Spring (September to December)

Spring is also considered mid-season (media estación) in Chile, but the city starts to show signs of blossoming. Temperatures are also very nice and range between 52° F and 61° F. Like in the Autumn, the clouds usually clear right after noon so you can get lots of good photographs while enjoying pleasant afternoon wanders.

Mid-September can be a particularly interesting time to visit because of the Independence Day holidays that are celebrated on September 18th and 19th. Celebrations include traditional parties known as Fondas.

The holiday is almost always just before or just after a weekend, so lots of people take off a few extra days and make it a weeklong holiday, with lots of festivities and parties. The city shuts down to an extent (everything must close for national holidays), but the parties are in full swing.

This is also the beginning of the cruise ship season in Valparaíso, which usually lasts from October through March. The vessels dock at the pier and thousands of tourists disembark almost daily, some enjoying time in Valparaiso and others continuing on to Santiago for flights back to their home countries.

Where to stay

Because of Valparaíso’s geography (all those hills), there’s really no space for big hotels. As a result, most of what you’ll find here are small boutique hotels. They’re mostly concentrated down by the port and in the closest hills, where most of the marquee attractions are. Hotels here are very picturesque and blend in with the city’s artistic spirit.

You’ll find good options for all different budgets, and below I’ve listed a few of my favorites. The rates provided below are just for reference (and will likely change throughout the year) and in most cases there are only a few rooms in these establishments, so they sell out quickly.

Palacio Astoreca Hotel - Also in Cerro Alegre, this “palace” set inside a Victorian mansion dates from 1923 and has been carefully renovated to offer some modern comfort while retaining the city’s historical heritage. There are 20 rooms divided into four different classes. It’s located right next to the beautiful Paseo Yugoslavo promenade, and offers some of Valpo’s best views. It also has a spa to relax in.

The average rate for a double room is US $164 per night.

Hotel Augusta - Localted on Cerro Alegre (Gleeful Hill) in a very pleasant part of town, this is a new addition to Valparaiso’s hotel options. Boutique and elegant, the apartment-style rooms have enormous glass windows (some with sea view balconies), beautiful wood floors, and tasteful decoration. Many rooms have kitchenettes too.

The average nightly rate is around $120 USD.

Winebox Hotel - This is a newer boutique hotel that was built to blend in with the city’s street art. It’s located on Cerro Bellavista (Beautiful View Hill - you guessed it, the views are good!). There are five classes of studio apartments to choose from, all of them made out of shipping containers. Pablo Neruda’s house-museum La Sebastiana is right nearby too.

The average rate for a double room is US $112 per night.

Hotel Manoir Atkinson - Also located on Cerro Concepción (Conception Hill), this hotel is located inside a quaint manor from the 1800s that has been nicely renovated. They have six rooms and one suite.

The average rate for a double room is US $95 per night.

Gran Hotel Gervasoni - This was the first boutique hotel in Valparaíso. Located on Cerro Concepción (Conception Hill), it’s been a testament to the city’s glory days since it was built in the 1870s. It’s right next to the Concepción Funicular and the Museum that houses the collection of cartoons by Lukas, as well as the famous Turri Café.

The average rate for a double room is US $90 per night.

Hotel Diego de Almagro - This is a modern building in the downtown area. Although it offers good access to transportation, it lacks the views of other hotels located up on the hills. It’s one of the city’s largest hotels however, with 177 rooms.

The average rate for a double room is US $75 per night.

Hotel Brighton - This is a 3 in 1 experience, since it has the boutique hotel, a restaurant, and a pub. Located in the Atkinson promenade, also on Cerro Concepción (Conception Hill), its nine rooms offer a wonderful view of the city.

The average rate for a double room is US $65 per night for this 3-star option.

Honorable mentions

Valparaiso’s hotel options have expanded enormously in recent years, and long gone are the days when most hotels where small B&BS in converted Victorian mansions, rickety and slightly rundown 2 and 3-star pensiones, or decent but rather characterless conference-style hotels around the port.

If none of the above hotels suit your fancy, here are a few more good options:

Casablu Hotel - High up in Cerro Alegre and offering exceptional views of the bay and city, everything here is elegant and boutique. $100 USD
AYCA La Flora Boutique Hotel - Charming B&B with lovely gardens and tasteful, unique rooms at the bottom of Cerro Alegre hill just a few streets away from the port. $100 USD.
Hotel Faro Azul - Deep into Cerro Alegre, this hotel is a bit away from the area’s attractions, but it’s a good option for travelers who want their own little house, bungalow, or just spacious rooms with multiple beds. $80 USD.

Restaurants and dining

The city of Valparaíso has a very interesting mixture of cultures. When the immigrants arrived during the 19th century, they brought with them their culinary traditions which have been passed on and blended with local culture.

Creativity is always in the air and that is also true for food There is a famous dish known as chorrillana. No one knows exactly how it came about, yet most Chileans agree that it was born in Valparaíso.

Although there are several variations depending on the city, the original version is a big platter of French fries topped with fried sliced onion, fried egg (sunny side up), and beef cut up into strips. Usually accompanied by a healthy serving of ketchup!

I would recommend the following dining options:

J. Cruz

Located on Condell Street, this small quaint eatery is said to be the birthplace of the famous chorrillana. Therefore, I recommend you try the generous servings directly from the source and pair it with a Chilean beer. Even though we are known for our wines, most people prefer beer.

The price range is affordable, with a chorrillana for two people (which could actually serve 3 or 4) costing around USD $16.

Café Turri

This café & restaurant is located on Templeman Street, Cerro Concepción, close to several interesting sites in the city. The views of the bay are amazing, they offer a complete menu with entrees, main dishes, desserts, cocktails, and an ample bar and wine offer, as well as teatime specials.

The prices are more on the high-end, but the experience is worth it. One of the chef’s specialties is the pastel de jaiba (crab gratin or pie), a delicious and typical Chilean classic.

Bar Cinzano

Known as the ‘oldest bar museum in the world,’ it opened in 1896. It’s located downtown along Condell Street and is a must-see venue in Valparaíso. You can enjoy live music and stand-up comedy shows.

I recommend you try a pitcher of borgoña, a very typical Chilean mixture consisting of red wine, strawberries, and sugar. The options for empanadas (turnovers) are great to accompany the delicious drink!

Restaurante Bote Salvavidas

This is definitely one of my favorite places in Valparaíso. It has great food, and it also contributes to a humanitarian charity. It belongs to the non-profit organization of the Lifeguard Boats of Valparaíso.

Their mission is to gather volunteers and provide aid in search and rescue operations within the bay. Created in 1925, it’s one of the oldest marine rescue organizations in Latin America.

The restaurant opened in 1940 and is still going strong! Their staple dish is the locos papas mayo, a platter of Chilean abalone with a garnish of boiled potatoes all topped with mayonnaise. These shellfish are not available all year round, so they are considered a delicacy.

The prices range widely depending on what you order, but keep in mind that everything goes to helping a great cause!

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What to see and do in Valparaíso

1. Going up? Ride the funiculars!

The entire city is an open art museum, but without a doubt there are some striking spots! Since it was built on 44 hills, there are stairs and funiculars that will take you up and down the main sites.

Although not all of them are operational, there is one that you just cannot miss: Ascensor Artillería. It will take you to one of the best lookout points of the city atop the Cerro Artillería, which has a short promenade known for its handicraft stalls that offer lapiz lazuli jewelry at reasonable prices. The other option to move around are the seemingly never-ending stairs.

Two of the most noteworthy are as the Piano, which was painted to look like piano keys and leads up to Cerro Concepción, and the Plaza Los Poetas, which is covered in mosaics and takes you to the top of Cerro Bellavista.

Ascensor Artilleria. Photo: Éric Depagne, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

2. Take a deep dive into Chile’s naval prowess

Our naval history has played a key role in the blossoming of the city of Valparaíso. Until today, the main headquarters are located here. The Museo Marítimo Nacional (National Naval Museum) is a wonderful way to learn more about our seafaring history, with both temporary and permanent exhibitions.

The miniature replicas of the vessels are breathtaking, as well as those on the tainted glass windows. There are 15 rooms dedicated to different time periods and events and some exhibits include descriptions in Braille for the visually impaired.

In addition, there is an outdoor section with cannons, and you can also see one of the Fenix Capsules used to successfully rescue the 33 miners in 2010.

3. Find inspiration at Pablo Neruda’s House Museum La Sebastiana

This is one of the poet’s three homes that were turned into museums by the Foundation that manages them to showcase his personal collections along with his most famous works. The tour leads you up many stairs to hidden spaces, each dedicated to one of Neruda’s passions such as his glass bottle collection.

A small café, a garden, an art studio, and a shop create a harmonious space with breathtaking views of the city and the bay. Take a break and relax, and feel the same inspiration as this Nobel Literature Prize winner!

Casa Museo La Sebastiana, one of Pablo Neruda’s former homes. Photo: Marcelo Ois Lagarde, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

4. Discover the art of engraving

Th unique Museo Universitario del Grabado – MUG – (University Engraving Museum), located on Cerro Alegre, is owned by the University of Playa Ancha (UPLA) and opened in 2021. The building itself is the restored Walbaum Manor, dating back to 1880 and reflecting the city’s English neoclassical architectural style.

It features only engraved art and has six exhibition rooms, each one named after a famous teacher of this discipline. Additionally, there are two special exhibitions. The first one showcases different temporary collections that are renewed every three months. The other houses artwork made on aluminum with a relief engraving technique.

The museum provides information using Braille for people with visual impairments. It also includes a documentation center and engraving workshops to disseminate this wonderful art style.

5. Travel around on the electric trolley buses

Valparaíso is not too large, but it is very steep, and you need someone knowledgeable to drive you around the winding streets. However, there are two very interesting options. The most common are the colectivos, shared cabs with a fixed route that will take you almost anywhere in the city. But the real surprise are the trolley busses!

Since 1952, locals have used this cleaner alternative to travel through the downtown or plain area of the city. Electrically powered, they also have fixed routes that you can hop on and off. This will definitely take you back in time and it’s the only city in Chile that still has them.

One of the city’s electric trolley buses

6. Take a peek at the National Congress

Located at the entrance of Valparaíso on Pedro Montt Avenue, you’ll see our Congreso Nacional (National Congress). This building with approximately 40 floors was built in 1990 and harbors both our Senate and House of Representatives chambers.

The huge modern construction is quite a contrast from the rest of the city. Even though the main governmental buildings, along with the Presidential Palace - are located in Santiago, the Congress was constructed here to help boost the city’s economy and restore it to its importance of the 19th century.

Guided visits are very rare, but the sheer magnitude of the building in the middle of the city clearly contrasts with that of the surrounding buildings dating from over 100.

Walking down Valparaíso’s downtown area, you can appreciate the different construction styles of each of the immigrant colonies that established in the city throughout its history, and the refurbishing or restoration after major events such as the 1906 earthquake (8.2 magnitude).

Photo: Carlos Figueroa Rojas, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

7. Hunt for retro and vintage treasures

Every Sunday, you can visit the Antiques Fair at Plaza Bernardo O’Higgins, located on Pedro Montt Avenue right next to the National Congress building. There are always stalls selling anything from used books, vinyl records, cassette tapes, China, and household items found during the renovation of the 18th and 19th century homes in the city. You never know what treasures you will find in this entertaining visit!

8. Enjoy some poetry and wine at Isla Negra and in the San Antonio Valley

Approximately one hour away from Valparaíso, you can reach Isla Negra, a small coastal town where you can visit Pablo Neruda’s second house and resting place. Just like La Sebastiana, it’s also a house-museum that you can visit. The collections displayed are amazing and the view of the open Pacific Ocean is quite liberating.

You can combine this trip to Isla Negra with a visit to a unique winery in the San Antonio Valley, Matetic, to see their organic and biodynamic vineyard. You’ll be able to get a tour of the facilities and taste different wines paired with their own goat cheese. The whole place is amazing and gives you a countryside feel with the herds of sheep and beautiful scenery.

The restaurant and boutique hotel are also very sought after to get a full relaxing experience away from the hectic city life!

Playa Las Ágatas in Isla Negra. Photo: Jorge Barrios, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

9. Do some wine tasting along the Casablanca Wine Route

Heading southeast towards Santiago, about 40 minutes away from Valparaíso, the Casablanca Wine Valley has a very unique microclimate, aided by the dense fog that enters from Valparaíso, which helps in the production of high-quality wines. Because these are the ideal temperatures and terrain for growing white grapes, they constitute nearly 90% of this valley’s production, mainly focused on the Chardonnay variety.

As part of their sustainable production methods, you’ll see that local winery owners plant rose bushes to the sides of the vineyards. That’s because they are sweeter than the vines, and attract plagues before they get to the vine. They are also more sensitive than the vines to the lack of water or fertilizers.

All of this helps warn oenologists if there’s anything wrong, saving time and money by preventing any of these issues to expand throughout the winery. The roses also serve to identify the vines; red roses for red grape vines and white roses for white grape vines.

10. Sample some Chilean culinary delights in the Curacaví Valley

Heading southeast for approximately one hour from Valparaíso, you will find the Curacaví Valley, a major agricultural hub. This valley produces mainly citric fruits -mainly oranges and lemons-, avocados, walnuts, peaches, prickly pears (a fruit obtained from a cactus), onions, and potatoes.

However, it is mostly known for its pastry delicacies and chicha a local alcoholic drink made of grapes. The pastries are mainly made of merengue and manjar. Manjar or dulce de leche is the final product of condensed milk boiled for two hours in the can. As a result, the sugar caramelizes and mixes with the milk, creating a very sweet brown cream.

Chicha is an alcoholic drink that the Incas used to make. The tradition lived on here in Chile, but now instead of using corn to make it we prepare it with grapes here in the central region, and with apples in the south. Go easy, though, because the chicha’s sweetness can be deceiving!

How to spend 2 days in Valparaíso

Day 1

On your first day, I suggest you spend time in the downtown area close to the pier. The walking distances are not too long and there are also plenty of colectivos (a shared cab system that allows you to hop on and off anywhere throughout its fixed route) for anyone who doesn’t want to walk.

For colectivos, keep in mind that every time you hop on you have to pay the fee, which is approximately $500 Chilean pesos (USD $0.60 cents). They are relatively easy to use since signs on their roofs indicate the main streets that they travel on, and they are also assigned route numbers.

In downtown, I always like to start my visit in the northern part, and then make my way south, starting at the Congress building. Right in front of its western side, on Avenida Argentina, there is a massive sculpture made entirely out of copper which is fabulous!

From here, if you continue down Pedro Montt Avenue, you’ll reach Plaza Victoria, the city’s main square. Like most Spanish-built cities, it has a Cathedral on its west side. In the square you’ll also be able to see four statues, one on each corner representing the four seasons of the year. They were brought from Peru at the end of the 19th century.

If you continue west towards Brazil Avenue, you will see a copy of the Arch of Triumph, which was a gift from Britain in 1910 for the 100-year celebration of our independence from the Spanish.

Finish your route at Plaza Sotomayor (Sotomayor square), which harbors the headquarters of the Chilean Navy. It also has a monument to Captain Arturo Prat and the heroes that we lost in the Battle of Iquique on May 21, 1879, which was a turning point in the Pacific War with Perú and Bolivia.

Nearby, you will see a building that still has its original facade intact but with a new construction for its interior. The reason the old facade remains is because Chilean law declares old facades as National Cultural Historical Monuments, so they cannot be demolished. This ensures that the vintage look is incorporated even within new spaces!

A few blocks away, you’ll find Restaurante Bote Salvavidas, a great place to have lunch. Afterwards, I recommend a stroll along the Muelle Prat pier and then a short boat ride.

Day 2

I’d suggest you spend your second day in Valparaiso hopping between some of the city's hills and neighborhoods. Every hill has its own unique attraction.

Personally, I like starting in the city’s south and making my way north up along the hills. So, get to Funicular Artillería and take the tram to the top of the hill. From here, take a walk along Paseo 21 de Mayo, a promenade with wonderful lookout points, handcraft stalls, and the Naval History Museum.

Then trace your steps backwards until you arrive at Cerro Concepción, a new hill. Take the funicular and have a wander around the neighborhood. There are lots of great restaurants here, so I’d stop for lunch too. One must-visit in this area is the Atkinson promenade, a long street lined with old mansions that have been carefully renovated. The interesting Lukas Museum is housed inside one of the homes, and worth a visit.

In the late afternoon, head back downtown and take a colectivo to visit Pablo Neruda’s house-museum, La Sebastiana. It is one of three former Neruda homes in Chile that have been turned into museums dedicated to the poet.

Whether you choose to ride the famous funiculars to go up and down the hills or climb some of the longest stairs you’ve ever seen, you will have the time of your life! Make sure to take plenty of breaks for refreshment and great views from the city’s many excellent cafes.

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