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There are not many mid-sized cities in Spain, and probably even in all of Europe, that can offer the variety and diversity that San Sebastián serves up to its visitors (and residents). I live here, so I should know!

While the city has only 190,000 inhabitants, this is a place with a lot of history and it lies at the crossroads of two countries (Spain and France), and within the heart of the Basque Region, which you might also call its own country. This means that the city, like its people, language, and culture, is varied.

San Sebastian is distinctly Basque, but it also has its own sort of French “spirit”, making it a bit of a hybrid place where you can feel the essence of both those peoples and cultures as they blend together.

This is simply a marvelous town, known globally for its cuisine, its sea-oriented lifestyle, its Belle Epoque architecture, and its close relationship with nature. And depending on where you choose to stay during your visit here, you’ll be able to experience all of these features to varying degrees.

And while each neighborhood is different, I think it’s worth noting that the city itself is quite compact and is extremely walkable, meaning that no matter where you book your accommodation, you’ll never be far away from other areas of interest.

So, just pick the neighborhood that has the atmosphere that you’re after, and don’t worry so much about its location: you'll be able to quickly get to wherever else you want to go no matter what.

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Table of Contents

Overview of the city’s layout and neighborhoods

The best way to figure out San Sebastián’s geography is by understanding the city’s relationship to its five principal geographic “features”: the Cantabrian Sea, the 3 mountains of Igeldo, Urgull, and Ulia, and the Urumea River.

The city's central neighborhoods are all laid out along a curving bay that opens up into the Bay of Biscay and the greater Cantabrian Sea. The sea has always been San Sebastián's lifeblood - the gateway to the city as well as its departure point for the voyaging sailors, merchants, and fisherman who have always called this place home. The Urumea River roughly divides the city into eastern and western halves and lets out into the bay.

After the sea, the main reference points are the 3 mountains that I mentioned above. These mountains are not behind the city, but rather on its sides - they rise up directly in front of the sea and form the NE, NW, and Northern borders of town. On the northeastern side of the city you have Ulia; due north of the old town and the city center is Urgull; and to the west is Monte Igeldo.

Given that this is a coastal town, San Sebastián’s most sought-after neighborhoods are all along the water.

The city developed around the Old Town - the little peninsula jutting out into the bay and topped by Mount Urgull. From there, the other central neighborhoods spread out along the beaches of La Concha and Zurriola, with more modern neighborhoods having been developed inland behind them.

Quick summary of my 4 recommended neighborhoods

As I mentioned above, San Sebastián isn’t especially big and as long as you stay somewhere relatively central, you’ll be within easy walking distance of the main sights in town. Basically, if you’re looking at a map, just choose anywhere that’s fairly close to Lo Viejo (old town) or the city center and you’ll be fine.

There’s also very good public transportation here, so even if you stay somewhere more removed from the center, you’ll be able to get around quickly and easily. Having said that though, if this is your first time in the city and you’ll only be here for a few days, I don’t think it really makes sense to stay further out, as those neighborhoods are very residential, aren’t nearly as pretty as the more central ones, and figuring out the public transit could be a hassle.

Below are my 4 recommended neighborhoods for first-time visitors, each of which includes a quick explanation of what their primary “attraction” is and what type of traveler they’re best suited for.

1. The Old Town (Lo Viejo) – for great food, easy access to the main sights, and historic architecture. Red on the map.

Located right at the bottom of Monte Urgull, which surges up from the ocean to form a peninsula in the middle of the city, the Old Town is San Sebastián's historic center. It’s undeniably touristy, but the architecture is beautiful and the vast majority of the city’s best restaurants and pintxos spots are found here.

The neighborhood is right along the sea, is heavily pedestrianized, has a number of great parks, and is within easy walking distance of just about anywhere you’re likely to want to visit.

2. City Center/Area Romántica – for luxury and belle époque elegance. Green on the map.

Heading south from the Old Town, San Sebastián’s busy and magnificently elegant City Center is blessed by Spain’s most iconic urban beach – La Concha. San Sebastián was long a summer retreat for European nobility and the center was the part of town in which they stayed and built their gorgeous Belle Époque style apartment blocks.

The neighborhood is full of gorgeous bridges, high-end shops, grand boulevards, and upscale hotels, bars, and restaurants.

3. Gros – for a youthful, cosmopolitan vibe right by the beach. Blue on the map.

Just to the east of the Old Town and City Center (across the Urumea river), Gros was once a mostly neglected working-class neighborhood, but has rapidly gentrified in recent years and is now unquestionably the most cosmopolitan part of the city.

Many of San Sebastián’s young people choose to live here (or at least hang out here) and it’s filled with cool bars and cafes and international restaurants. Centered along La Zurriola beach, which has great waves, you also have the opportunity to do all sorts of water sports.

4. El Antiguo – for a slice of genuine local life. Yellow on the map.

Located west of the city center and laid out along Ondarreta beach, this is a distinctly local neighborhood that few tourists choose to stay in. Local residents call themselves antiguotarras and consider their neighborhood to basically be its own separate town (even though it’s very close to the center).

This is a very pleasant area and it’s an ideal base if you want to get away from the touristy areas and be surrounded by locals rather than tourists. Just don’t come here expecting it to be especially “hip” or “youthful”.

See below for a more detailed overview of each of these neighborhoods.

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1. Lo Viejo (Old Town)

*Plaza de la Constitución. Photo:* *Edorta Subijana*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Sheltered from the harsh forces of the ocean by Mount Urgull, San Sebastián’s Old Town (Lo Viejo, for us locals) is its quintessential area where all its fundamental traits reside: a close relationship with the sea, lovely old architecture, great food (pintxos anyone!), and the lively Basque lifestyle.

Here, you'll find pleasant pedestrianized streets dotted with pretty squares, most of the city's best pintxos restaurants and cideries (don't make the mistake of thinking that the restaurants here are tourist traps - we locals come to eat too!), and lots of great cafes and bars. It is said that the city holds the most Michelin-star restaurants by square kilometer, and this is where most of them are located.

Although this was historically a neighborhood inhabited by fishermen and the craftsmen who worked at or by way of the harbor, Lo Viejo has more recently become a touristic hotspot, but not in the soulless mass tourism way. The historic charm very much still remains here, it’s always lively - filled with locals and visitors alike - and this is the part of town where everyone comes to mingle and eat.

Given that the rest of the city expanded out from this area, it’s also the most central base from which to explore other parts of town. Most of the main sights are within a 10-minute walk, and you can almost anywhere in the city on foot.

You’ll also be quite close to a central transport hub, the nearby Boulevard Avenue, which is a major stop for buses heading all over the city.

If you’re after historic charm, great food, a lively atmosphere, and a central location, Lo Viejo is hard to beat. Of course, given its popularity and everything that it offers, accommodation here is more expensive than other parts of town. Because of its narrow, ancient streets, there is not much space for huge hotels and you'll mostly find pensiones (guest houses and B&Bs).

Where to stay

Hotel Atari - One of the few actual hotels in the Old Town, Hotel is a lovely and thoughtfully designed 4-star hotel that is also home to one of the city's best restaurants. $300-550 USD.

Lasala Plaza Hotel - An adults-only boutique hotel, the location here is perfect with privileged views of the Bay of Biscay and La Concha beach. You also get luxurious features like a rooftop swimming pool. $150-400 USD.

Hotel SANSEbay - A great mid-range choice located in a quiet corner of the old town with views over the water. $100-300 USD.

Pensión ab Domini - A slightly upscale guesthouse that is an absolute gem. It mixes the charm of a classic home from the Old Town with the highest levels of comfort. $150 USD.

Pensión la Marinera - A simple but excellent value guesthouse in a good location. $80 USD.

Main sights

Mount Urgull: Mount Urgull is the 120-meter high hill that protects San Sebastián’s Old Town from the sea and the inclement weather it brings on the days when it gets angry and wild (which in the Basque country, happens a lot!).

I know that most people visit this city during the summer, but for me, there’s nothing better than climbing the hill on a winter’s day and looking out at the fierce sea as it whips wind and waves at Urgull, trying to get into the city.

Regardless of the season in which you visit, Urgull is a natural wonder and the easy walk up to its summit is the perfect plan at any time of year. It’s also a great way to burn off some of the calories you’ll have no doubt taken on during your days of feasting here.

La Bretxa market: As I’ve mentioned above, Lo Viejo (Old Town) is the premier gastronomic area in the city, and La Bretxa market is the perfect representation of that, showcasing the best of centuries-old Basque culinary traditions.

Come for a wander through the market and watch as young chefs and local families show up to chat with vendors and buy their groceries, most of it locally grown and produced.

31 de Agosto Street: Truly historic, the tale behind this famous street is worth telling and hearing again and again. This was the only street that survived the fire of 1813, when English and Portuguese troops besieged the city, expelled Napoleon’s army, sacked the town, and set it ablaze.

Along this street are the only still-standing buildings built prior to the fire, so if you’re after history, this is the place to find it.

The pintxos route: Don’t even ask, just follow my instructions - make a reservation for a tortilla pintxo in Bar Néstor, eat the carrilleras in Gandarias, go for the croquetas d txuleta in Txuleta, and finish with the cheesecake in La Viña.

And please, please, reserve a spot for dinner in Bodegón Alejandro.

2. City Center/Area Romántica

*Plaza de Okendo in the city center. Photo:* *Валерий Дед*, *CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Monumento a Antonio de Oquendo y Teatro Victoria Eugenia in the City Center. Photo:* *Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Just to the south of the Old Town, the City Center lies between La Concha beach and the Urumea river. This is an architecturally magnificent area, filled with beautiful structures, monuments, historic hotels, and an elegant, refined atmosphere.

This is the place to go for long, aimless walks, always looking up and all around you, just enjoying being in one of the most beautiful cities in Spain (and yes, maybe all of Europe).

San Sebastián is undoubtedly the most “French” city in Spain and part of that is explained by location - the French border is only 25 km away. But I think that history has actually played a bigger role in creating the French, Belle Epoque atmosphere that you find here.

Back in the middle of the 19th century - the height of the French-inspired Belle Epoque era - Queen Isabell II of Spain chose San Sebastián as one of the main summer retreats for the Spanish royal court. A few decades later, Queen María Cristina converted the town into the Crown’s second “base”, and she set about constructing many beautiful new buildings in the city center.

Gorgeous structures from this period, like the Teatro Victoria Eugenia, the María Cristina Hotel, and the current City Council, are now some of the city’s main attractions. Having been built during the Belle Epoque era, they give the area the distinctly “French” ambiance for which it’s known.

Of course, this is not just an open-air museum: it’s also a busy, lively part of town, filled with shops, businesses, restaurants, and people going about their daily lives. It's bigger and busier than Lo Viejo, and is also less focused on tourism, meaning that it offers a nice mix of touristic attractions and regular life.

Where to stay

Hotel María Cristina - The movie critics get Hotel de Londres, but the best is reserved for the actors themselves! And they always choose to stay here. It's a gorgeous five-star hotel that lies just beside the Urumea River and is the essence of the Belle Époque elegance. $500+ USD.

Hotel Londres - A luxurious 4-star hotel with unbelievable views of La Concha beach and its bay. Supposedly, back in the 20th century, It was once a favorite of movie critics who stayed here while attending the San Sebastian International Film Festival. $150-350 USD.

Hotel Arbaso: With a prime location right next to the city’s cathedral, the rooms here are comfortable and modern, many of them with their own separate sitting areas. $150-$350 a night.

Hotel Catalonia Donosti - A 10-minute walk from the beach, this is a lovely 4-star hotel in a beautifully renovated convent from the 17th century. The rooftop, with a pool, has magnificent views and the rooms are lovely. $150-300 depending on the time of year.

Sercotel Hotel Europa - A solid mid-range option one block off of La Concha beach. $120-300 USD

Hotel Zinema 7 - Technically in the Amara neighborhood just south of the city center, this is a comfortable and functional hotel in a nice residential area. A city bus line passes directly out front to bring you into the center in a couple minutes. $70-200 USD.

Pensión Aristizabal - A good value 6-room pensión that's well located on Plaza de Bilbao. $50-100 USD.

Main sights

La Concha Bay: The epitome of San Sebastián’s way of life, the most iconic view of the city, the best urban beach in Europe. All of that and much more is what the beach of La Concha means for this town, and you should enjoy it to the fullest.

Walk alongside it, relax in the sand, swim in its clear (but chilly) water, grab a paddleboard and head out to the Island of Santa Clara, luxuriate in the beachside La Perla spa. And then come back the next day and do it all again!

Avenida de la Libertad: I’ve said quite a few times by now that San Sebastián is the most French city in Spain, and while there are many examples of this, I think the Avenida de la Libertad, with its countless boutiques, stylish and avant-garde shops, cafés, and restaurants, is the street that demonstrates this most clearly.

This is the principal shopping spot in the city center, and it will make you feel like you’re in Paris.

The Belle époque route: Start by María Cristina Hotel, which got its name from the queen of the same name, who chose San Sebastián as her second home, and in many ways built the city that you see today. You have her to thank for making this belle époque route possible.

From the hotel, head nearby to the lovely Victoria Eugenia Theatre. Then, spend some time crisscrossing the Urumea river, weaving your way along it by crossing over the multiple gorgeous bridges.

Make your way up to the Plaza de Bilbao at some point along the walk, and be sure to enjoy some of the pleasant greenways alongside the river. Eventually, head down to Plaza de Gipuzkoa, where you can see the provincial government building, built also during the 19th century.

And then, to cap it all off, make your way to La Concha beach for a walk besidet the sea or a swim and some sunbathing.

3. Gros

The neighborhood of Gros along Zuriola beach seen from the top of Ulia mountain in San Sebastian, Spain. — *Gros and Zuriola beach seen from the top of Mount Ulia. Photo:* *Ander.gd*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Common*

Across the Urumea River and east of Lo Viejo and the City Center, the neighborhood of Gros is another waterfront area, but with a totally different vibe.

Life here revolves around the neighborhood’s beach, La Zurriola, which, with its consistently strong waves, is a surfing hotspot. And the atmosphere is very much what you would expect from a surfer’s “hood”: youthful, pretty hipster, a bit alternative, and a lot of fun!

During the summer, people will be out on the water all throughout the day, you’ll hear indie music playing in bars and cafes, the restaurants are international (with a focus on healthier options), and lots of independent shops line the streets.

If you’ve heard that the Basque Country is Spain’s version of California (which I think is a fair characterization in many ways), Gros is the place that will confirm that stereotype.

Back in the day, this was a mostly forgotten working-class neighborhood, but the last 30 years have seen Gros become one of the city's most attractive neighborhoods. This is now indisputably the most cosmopolitan part of town - full of fashionably dressed people chatting at the trendy cafes - and you’ll hear English spoken everywhere.

Within easy walking distance of pretty much anywhere you’ll want to go and perfectly connected to other areas by buses and protected bike lanes, this is a great base for exploring San Sebastián, especially if you’re looking for somewhere young, hip, and modern.

Where to stay

Boutique Hotel Mendi Argia - In a green and secluded part of the neighborhood, this boutique hotel is an absolute treat. The views are great and the rooms are modern, but filled with character. It's a particularly great option for a romantic stay. $200-300 USD.

Hotel Punta Mompás - A cute little hotel in an area that I think has the best views in all of San Sebastián at the foot of Ulía mountain. At sunset, the views over the Cantabrian Sea are extraordinary, and the hotel is worth staying at for that alone. $50-150 USD.

Pensión Kursaal: This is the best guesthouse in Gros, right in front of the Kursaal Congress Center and a few steps from La Zurriola beach. It’s a perfect spot for surfers and visitors who want to enjoy the sea and the outdoors. $50-100 USD.

Main sights

Zurriola Beach: Zurriola Beach is the heart of Gros, the star attraction that draws people here and fosters the youthful, hipster, surfer, and outdoors vibe that have made it relatively famous throughout Europe.

Head to the beach to catch some waves or to relax alongside it in one of the many chiringuitos (beach bars) while drinking a locally brewed craft beer.

Kursaal: A gem of modern architecture as well as the center of the San Sebastián International Film Festival, the Kursaal Congress Center, located right next to Zurriola beach, is one of the most iconic sights in the city.

If you have the chance to watch a show or see an exhibit here, just go, no matter what it is.

Ádamo tortilla by El Muro: In San Sebastián, food must always be foremost in your plans, and in Gros, the best course of action is to pick up a tortilla pintxo in El Ádamo Beach and take it to munch while you sit on the Sagués wall, at the eastern end of La Zurriola.

Every day, countless people gather along the wall in the evening to hang out and watch the sunset, looking out on the city and the water. Can you think of a better plan?

Mount Ulía: The mountain that shelters San Sebastián on its eastern side, Mount Ulía is the perfect place to go for a hike and escape from the city for a while. Try the 7-km Ulia to Pasaia route, which runs over the “mountain” and along the coast all the way to Pasaia. This walk will help you understand this city’s deep relationship with the sea.

4. El Antiguo

*Plaza Jose Maria Sert. Photo:* *Xabier Cañas*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped*

On the western side of the city, this is a very local and down to earth neighborhood. Located along family-friendly Ondarreta beach, El Antiguo was actually the original settlement of the city, making it the oldest part of town (not many people know this!).

While the city’s development shifted east to the Old Town and the City Center over time, this is the real “old San Sebastian” and it offers a chance for total immersion into the city’s local way of life.

And a day in the life of a local almost always includes some of the following: a simple daily routine (work, school, family, etc.), some sports or other athletic activities, drinks with friends in the evening, and a stroll through the streets and parks or a visit to the beach. And of course, lots of good food. If you stay here, you'll get to experience it for yourself!

Calle Matía, a lively commercial avenue that is always busy and filled with people - almost exclusively locals-, is the center of the neighborhood. Around it and throughout the neighborhood, you'll find lots of little squares and pleasant green spaces.

Perhaps better described as a village unto itself, El Antiguo has a kind of independent spirit from the rest of the city. To better demonstrate that attitude, think of this: antiguotarras (residents of the area) usually say they are “going to San Sebastián” if they plan to head into town.

If you want to get away from other tourists and see a slice of authentic local life, this is the neighborhood I’d recommend.

Where to stay

Go Donosti Chillida - If you want to experience San Sebastián as a true local (albeit one with a decent salary), the modern apartments from Go Donosti Chillida, with their exceptional views of La Concha Bay, are a great choice. $150-250 USD.

NH Collection Aranzazu - A large, modern hotel a few blocks off the beach. Rooms are very spacious and it's good value. It's a particularly good option if you'll have a car and need to park. $100-200 USD.

Letoh Letoh San Sebastián - Located in the heart of Calle Matía and just meters away from Ondarreta Beach, this is a modern hotel that offers perfect working spaces (great for work trips or digital nomads) in addition to comfortable, very tastefully furnished rooms. $80-150 USD.

Ilunion San Sebastián - A classic, four-star hotel that's very modern and conveniently located right next to Ondarreta Beach and Calle Matía. $75-150 USD.

Main sights

Peine de los Vientos (The Comb of Wind): The most emblematic artwork in San Sebastián, this tough, iron-made, modern sculpture that rises out of the rocks above the waves, was created by the city’s chosen son, Eduardo Chillida. This is an unmissable site that sits right beside La Concha Bay. Go see it and you’ll understand its name.

Ondarreta Beach: The most local beach of the three that San Sebastián has to offer, Ondarreta has calmer waters than the others and is perfect for families with little kids. It’s not nearly as busy as La Zurriola or La Concha, and is the perfect spot to spend a couple of hours hanging out and enjoying being on the sea.

Calle Matía: As I mentioned above, the entire neighborhood is really centered around this street, and it’s the focal point for life here. Go for a wander, pop into the shops, and enjoy the local atmosphere. It’s great any time of day: from morning through late in the evening.

Other neighborhoods to consider

Easo

A more tranquil, easy-going, and middle class neighborhood, Easo offers an interesting contrast with the upscale (and expensive) life found in the other city center neighborhoods.

Technically, this is really still part of the City Center, but Easo is a bit to the south and west, and is often thought of as its own mini neighborhood. It sits at the base of a steep hill which rises up around Calle Easo and continues into the upscale neighborhood of Aiete.

The Plaza de Easo is a very pleasant square, and it’s a nice spot to grab some drinks and start up or wind down an evening.

Wherever you stay in this area, you’ll be only a couple of minutes away from the main sights, but with many fewer tourists and a much more “regular” local crowd.

Egia

To the east of the city center, across the Urumea River, and to the south of Gros, Egia is an “up and coming” area that artists and hipsters who have been displaced from other neighborhoods (as they become too expensive) have begun to flock to.

It’s definitely not a wealthy or touristy area, but it’s still quite central and you’ll be within easy walking distance of most of the rest of the city from here.

It’s also a haven for independent art and culture, and you’ll find innovative music and expo spaces like Dabadaba, Le Bukowski, and Tabakalera (all centers of the hipster movement in San Sebastián) sitting side by side with good quality, traditional restaurants with great prices here.

Hotel Villa Eugenia: A three-star hotel located close in central Egia but still close enough to La Zurriola beach, Villa Eugenia is a good spot if you want to be able to hit the beach and check out the neighborhood’s arts scene.

Igeldo

Mount Igeldo rises up on the western edge of San Sebastián, and the neighborhood that sits atop it, Igeldo, is a perfect transition between urban life and the rural Basque lifestyle found outside the cities. Here, you can go hiking, get to know nature, enjoy nice views of the ocean, and see La Concha Bay from the most unique amusement park in Europe.

Mercure San Sebastián Monte Igueldo: Right next to the amusement park, Hotel Monte Igeldo is a good luxury choice for an escape from the city without being too far away.

Pasaia

Although it’s not actually a neighborhood of San Sebastián - since it belongs to a different city council -, the Bay of Pasaia (located on the eastern side of Monte Ulía and well to the east of San Sebastian overall)) is still the town’s main industrial port, and it more or less makes sense to think of Pasaia as just another neighborhood.

That being said, it is much further away from the city center than anywhere else I’ve mentioned so far. Pasaia is definitely not a conventional choice for a place to stay, and you’d be traveling back and forth a lot if you want to spend most of your time in central San Sebastian, but the charm here is undeniable.

The narrow streets and the fisherman-like houses running along the waterfront are iconic, the sea is at your fingertips no matter where you go in the area, and the character is local, authentic, and real.

Also, whether you stay here or not, you must go for dinner at Txulotxo Restaurant.

Donibanea Hotela: Have you read everything I’ve just said about Pasaia? About the sea, the fishing tradition, the narrow streets, the bay? Well, if all of that could be converted into a hotel, it would be Donibanea Hotela.