A Local’s Guide to Visiting Modica, Sicily
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Modica, one of the eight Unesco-listed towns in southeastern Sicily’s Val di Noto, is a lovely Baroque town lying in a gorgeous valley at the foot of four surrounding hills, just a 20-minute drive from Ragusa.
Its current character was largely determined by the massive earthquake of 1693, which badly damaged a large part of the old medieval town, once carved into the rock, and which has since been replaced by Baroque churches and palaces. A city of two halves - Modica Alta and Modica Bassa -, one old and one now, you can easily meander between the two different parts of town as they are connected by a maze of narrow staircases and winding alleys.
Due to its geography and the narrow, labyrinthine streets that traverse the city, Modica is best explored on foot and this is somewhere that you must readily accept you will get lost in, not once, but many times.
So embrace your curiosity, forget about maps and directions, and set off into the city, discovering how every turn can lead to a hidden courtyard, a spectacular viewpoint, or lovely houses seemingly stacked one on top of the other.
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Modica?
How to get here
How long to stay
Modica itinerary - an afternoon visit
What to see & do
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Where is Modica?
Modica is located in southeastern Sicily, in a deep gorge among the Hyblean mountains in the Val di Noto. It is about 250 km sotheast from Palermo, the capital of Sicily, and around 130 kilometers south of Catania, eastern Sicily’s biggest city.
The nearest “big” city is Ragusa, just 16 kilometers away, while another famous town, Noto, is about double that distance.
Modica lies in a valley formed by 4 hills, and the city rises up the slopes, before giving way to typical Mediterranean countryside all around it.
Why visit
Photo: Davide Mauro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
While the Val di Noto (where Modica is found) is and has been a very popular tourist destination for quite a while now, Modica is still very much an authentic town. I love to stroll up and down its maze of narrow stairways and alleys that connect the two towns, Modica Alta and Modica Bassa, and wandering around its streets makes me feel like a true explorer.
Even though I know the town very well and have been here many times, it still has surprises for me each time I visit. So my advice to you is to slow your pace and soak up the atmosphere of this town built in honey-colored stone and listed as a UNESCO Heritage site for its magnificent Baroque architecture.
If you take your time, you’ll uncover a surprising and mysterious small city, and will have a fabulous time getting lost in its labyrinth of streets, periodically stumble out into imposing Baroque churches, hidden medieval chapels, and and picturesque buildings, such as the impressive façade of the Palazzo Polara that you’ve probably seen in the hit TV series Inspector Montalbano.
I won’t lie to you though: you will need quite a lot of energy if you set off to explore this whole city on food. Modica is hilly and its streets and staircases can be demanding, so be prepared to work hard. Luckily, the town offers a number of pastry shops selling special chocolate, so you will have ample opportunity to refuel on some delicious sweets!
Modica has a 400-year tradition of chocolate-making and they produce it the Aztec way, a method brought back from South America when Sicily was part of the Spanish kingdom during the 16th century. It’s excellent, and after hours of walking and hard work, you should absolutely treat yourself.
How to get to here
By train and bus
Ragusa is the nearest city, connected to Modica by train and bus.
The train station is a 15-minute walk from the historic center. Regular but not very frequent direct trains connect Ragusa to Modica in 24 minutes. The train ticket cost € 2.40 one way, and you can count on 7 departures per day, fairly frequently from 9 am to 9 pm.
Buses are more frequent, with 18 daily departures connecting Ragusa to Modica, and a journey time of 25 minutes. Buses start at 6 am and continue until 10 pm. The ticket costs € 2 and the bus drops you off in Modica Bassa (the lower part of town).
By car
You can reach Modica by car from Ragusa in 20 minutes, from Noto in 40 minutes and from Siracusa in an hour. Arriving from Catania airport will take about 80 minutes.
Due to its narrow streets, Modica is not advisable to drive in. Park your car at the end of Corso Umberto, the main street in Modica Bassa (the new town), then enjoy the city on foot.
Renting a car
All the big rental companies have offices in Sicily and you also have many local agencies. If you begin your visit in Palermo, Catania, or any other larger city, you’ll find plenty of options for car rentals. If you want to pick up a car while in Marsala, know that your best bet will be to pick up a rental at the airport in nearby Trapani.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, which is a website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can find some great deals.
How long to stay
Being a small city, Modica will take no more than an afternoon to explore. If you’ve got a car and will be exploring other towns in the Val di Noto, you can visit Ragusa first and then head here after lunch.
Arriving in the mid-afternoon, you’ll have time to enjoy a stroll up and down its narrow streets, grab a sweet treat in one of the town’s classic shops, and enjoy a good dinner in a local trattoria.
In the evening, the Modica becomes extremely atmospheric, so plan for another pleasant stroll after dinner.
See the end of this article for a more complete itinerary for your afternoon and evening here.
Where to stay overnight
If you’re planning to stay here overnight, the B&B Il Giardino Dei Mandarini is your best bet. It features wooden furniture and beautiful floors and offers a little garden for guests to enjoy breakfast or chill in the evening with a glass of wine.
Candelieri19 has a more contemporary flare in a restored historic building.
Modica itinerary - an afternoon in town
Start your stroll along Corso Umberto to discover the Baroque soul of the city in Modica Bassa: admire the Duomo of San Pietro, the noble palace Palazzo Leva, Palazzo della Cultura and Palazzo Polara, among the filming locations of the popular tv series Inspector Montalbano.
Then head to the Duomo of San Giorgio, located in Modica Alta, by climbing 250 steps to reach the imposing church. It offers a great view of the city.
Wander the winding alleys of the old town, visit the Nobel prize Salvatore Quasimodo’s house and the tiny 12th-century church of San Nicolò Inferiore carved into the rock.
Stop at Dolceria Bonajuto to refill your energy by tasting the local chocolate. Walk up to the church of San Giovanni Evangelista to enjoy an old district, a Baroque church, and a great view over the valley.
End your day by sitting at a little trattoria to taste local delicacies.
Things to see & do
1. Climb the Duomo of San Giorgio
Now saddle up and tackle the stairs to the Duomo of San Giorgio, located in Modica Alta. It is connected to the lower part of the town by 250 steps. Your effort will be rewarded with an outstanding view over the city.
The church is quite impressive and is rightly considered among Sicily’s most beautiful Baroque churches. It is Rosario Gagliardi's masterpiece, the same architect that built the Duomo in Ragusa Ibla and many churches in Noto.
Photo: Ludvig14, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Go for a stroll along Corso Umberto
Start your exploration strolling along Corso Umberto. Modica’s main street is lined by historic churches, airy squares, decadent palaces, and pastry shops.
Stop at Palazzo Leva, a former noble palace now hosting art exhibitions, and admire the 19th-century Teatro Garibaldi.
Palazzo della Cultura houses the Museo Civico, where to discover the city’s long history.
Do not miss Palazzo Polara, among Modica’s most famous sites. Many scenes from the popular TV series Inspector Montalbano were shot here.
3. Tour a Nobel prize recipient’s house
Did you know that the Nobel prize poet Salvatore Quasimodo was born in Modica? He is among my favorite poets, and that's why I love to visit his birthplace, which is now the museum Casa Natale Salvatore Quasimodo.
You can retrace his life and work by walking through the rooms where he was born in 1901. The main rooms house the original bedroom and the furniture from his study in Milan.
You can join a guided tour and listen to the original voice of the poet who recites his poems.
4. See the second Duomo
Yes, Modica has two Duomos, being two cities in one. If the Duomo of San Giorgio is the main church in Modica Alta, the Duomo of San Pietro is where Modica Bassa’s heart beats. Its honey-colored stone turns red under the sunset.
It was built in Baroque style over a previous 14th-century church destroyed by the 1693 earthquake. A vast staircase and life-size statues of the 12 Apostles were added in 1876.
Photo: Gameworks, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Enjoy panoramic views from atop Modica Alta
Reach the church of San Giovanni Evangelista, built at the very top of Modica Alta. It is my favorite place in the city. It is quiet as if it were a place suspended in time: no traffic, no noises, only the sleepy houses with clothes hanging outside. It sits at the highest point in the city.
Enjoy the beautiful Baroque church, then head to the nearby viewing platform to enjoy the best panorama of the old town and the surrounding countryside.
Photo: Vincent et Catherine, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Discover the local chocolate culture
As part of the Spanish kingdom during the 16th and 17th centuries, Sicily received all the bounties brought by the new world, such as the Aztec method of chocolate making.
After 400 years, it is still practiced in Modica. The local chocolate is processed in such a way that the sugar remains crumbling and melts in your mouth. It is a must-try.
I am addicted to the chilli-flavored chocolate, but you can also choose cinnamon, vanilla, pistachio, citrus, or even a local red wine, Nero d’Avola. Stop at Dolceria Bojauto, the oldest chocolate shop.
It is the best place to taste a very good cannolo freshly filled with ricotta and a local delicacy called ‘mpanatigghi. It is a Modican biscuit stuffed with chocolate, almonds, honey, and minced meat. Can you believe it? It is delicious!
If you want to learn about chocolate-making, you can visit the small chocolate museum. If you happen to be in Modica in December, join the chocolate festival ChocoModica. In April, take part in Ciokowine Fest, a festival pairing chocolate and wine.
7. Visit the Castello dei Conti
The Castello dei Conti is perched on a rocky outcrop dominating the town. The medieval building dates back to the 13th century and provides a glimpse into the local history before the earthquake that razed down the city in 1693.
Next to the castle walls, there is an 18th-century clock tower built upon a previous 17th-century lookout tower, destroyed by the same earthquake.
8. See the medieval church carved into the rocks
San Nicolò Inferiore is a tiny 12th-century church carved into rock. It is considered the oldest Modica’s church and it was discovered by accident in 1987.
Its apse is covered with Byzantine-style icons. The Christ Pantocrator is right in the center. During excavations, earthen tombs were also brought to light.
9. Take in the sunset views
After dinner, hop in the car and drive for less than a km outside the city center to reach Via Sant’Andrea, on Monserrato Hill. From there, you’ll have the most beautiful view of Modica.
Come at sunset and watch the town illuminated by the street lamps.
10. Explore prehistoric caves in Cava d’Ispica
The impressive Cava d’Ispica is less than 10 km away from Modica. It will take about 10 minutes by car. It is an extensive cave system dating back to the 2000 BC.
The caves were also used as early Christian tombs and dwellings during the Medieval Age. A 13-lm-long path crosses the gorge, running along a verdant valley. Lace your boots up and go explore!
Photo: Davide Mauro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
11. Enjoy a typical meal of local specialties at Osteria dei Sapori Perduti
End your day by enjoying a typical Sicilian dinner in a local trattoria. Sit at Osteria dei Sapori Perduti to taste some classic Sicilian dishes. The Muriana family, which runs the restaurant, offers old culinary traditions: tasty, authentic, and unpretentious.
If you’re feeling fancy, book a table at Accursio, an intimate Michelin-starred restaurant.
A few doors down, you can find Accursio Radici, a more affordable sister restaurant. My favorite dishes? Caponata (chopped fried vegetables in agrodolce sauce) and pasta con le sarde (pasta with anchovies).
12. Make a quick trip out to the beach
Although I love to wander towns full of artistic treasures, at a certain point I miss the sea. If you'd like to add a quick trip to the seaside, reach Sampieri, Marina di Modica, or Donnalucata on the southern coast of Sicily.
They lie 20 km away from Modica and offer the opportunity to enjoy a Sicilian beach without the usual crowd. They are quiet even in August!
Donnalucata. Photo: Davide Mauro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
13. Visit the nearby Baroque town of Scicli
Most likely, if you are in Modica you have also been (or will go) to Ragusa. Don't miss the opportunity to visit Scicli too. It is another Unesco-listed Baroque city located between two steep ridges.
Enjoy a walk along the central Via Penna flanked by impressive Baroque buildings such as Palazzo Spadaro and Palazzo Beneventano. It was also a filming location for the TV series Inspector Montalbano.
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