Where to Stay in Bologna - Guide to the City’s Neighborhoods
Bologna is a wonderful city and one that’s far too often overlooked by the countless travelers who zoom right past it on their way to Venice, Florence, Rome, or the Amalfi Coast. But that makes it all the better for those of us who do choose to visit, and if you’re already thinking about a place to stay here, you’re on the right track.
This is a truly rewarding place to visit, partly because it feels refreshingly authentic compared to other more popular places in Italy, but also because it’s one of Europe’s best preserved medieval cities, is genuinely full of palaces, churches, and fascinating museums, and has the best food in all of Italy.
And I especially like that no matter where you are in Bologna, it never feels like a tourist playground - the capital of the Emilia Romagna region, this is a lively, energetic, and youthful center of commerce, and regular daily life still plays out in the beautiful and atmospheric Centro Storico (Historic Center).
I’ve spent a lot of time in Bologna over the past 20 years and have never had a bad meal (gastronomy is big business here) or failed to stumble onto some new and remarkable sight I hadn’t previously known about. I think that’s another big part of the city’s appeal: it’s not a “one and done” type of town, and it always has something new to offer you.
Now, when it comes to deciding on your base in the city, I have to admit that I can be a bit problematic when giving advice about this. I constantly frustrate my friends when they ask me to recommend the “best” neighborhoods for a stay because my answer is always the same: I tell them all that you can’t go wrong settling down just about anywhere in the city. And I mean it! That’s because all of central Bologna is lovely, and the city is very compact, so as long as you stay in or relatively near the center, you’ll have pretty surroundings and an easy walk to the big sights.
Really, where you should stay depends on the experience you want to have. Do you want to enjoy the lively (and touristy) atmosphere around Piazza Maggiore, the city’s main square? Or would you prefer to soak in the quiet medieval surroundings of the former Jewish Ghetto?
If you’re a night owl, the youth-oriented University District will stay up all night with you, while just beyond the city gates to the south of the center, the elegant and leafy neighborhoods of Saragozza/Colli provide tranquility and easy access to nice parks. And then there’s multicultural Bolognina, north of the Centro Storico on the other side of Bologna Centrale train station. You really can’t go wrong in any of them.
Below, I’ve provided a comprehensive introduction to each of these 5 neighborhoods so that you can choose the right one for your tastes.
Overview of Bologna’s layout
Bologna with the city’s historic core outlined in grey
Bologna is one of the easier big cities in Italy to get a grasp for, as it can easily be split into two parts: the inner city, which is the historic center (Centro Storico in Italian), and the more modern city, which spreads out around the center.
The Centro Storico, with its arcaded streets and lovely red brick buildings, is entirely surrounded by a ring road, which up until the 19th century was where the city walls stood (parts of them are still intact). Along with the remaining walls, 10 of the city’s original gates are still standing, and everything within them and the ring road counts as the historic center.
The city’s main square, Piazza Maggiore, lies in the absolute center of the Centro Storico and is the best reference point to use when looking at maps or trying to choose hotels. If you stay near the square, you’ll be able to reach most anywhere you want to go on foot in around 15 minutes or less. There are two principal avenues to keep in mind as well: Via dell’Indipendenza cuts through the city north to south, while Via Ugo Bassi/Via Rizzoli (same street, different name) bisects it from east to west.
Moving out from the center beyond the ring road, the neighborhoods are much more modern and a lot less attractive. These are primarily local and residential areas, and there’s little in the way of tourist attractions. The exception to this are a few upscale neighborhoods to the south, which are fairly elegant.
When it comes to getting around, the historic center is extremely walkable, so you don’t really even need to think about transportation when doing your sightseeing. And when you want to head to farther out neighborhoods or see some of the sights outside the center, know that the city has an excellent bus network. Many bus routes run along Via Ugo Bassi/Via Rizzoli and Via dell’Indipedenza.
Quick summary of my 5 recommended neighborhoods
Being realistic, whether this is your first time in Bologna or your tenth, you’ll probably want to stay within the Centro Storico. A gorgeous medieval center, this is the most atmospheric part of the city and is where you’ll find many of the best shops, restaurants, and sights. The architecture is lovely, the narrow streets are always bustling, and it feels like stepping back in time to the Middle Ages or Renaissance (depending on which part you’re in!).
Now, I just want to quickly point out that while the Centro Storico is really just one neighborhood, I’ve chosen to break it up into a few “sub-neighborhoods” in this guide because I think there are a few areas with very distinct atmospheres that are worth distinguishing between. To clarify, those neighborhoods are the Jewish Ghetto, the University District, and Piazza Maggiore area.
Again, while I’d generally recommend staying in the historic center, there are a few neighborhoods just outside it that can make for very good bases depending on what you’re looking for (I’ve recommended two of them below). These areas are not as historic or charming as the Centro Storico, but they’re a fair deal more affordable, are much less touristy, and give you excellent access to parks and green spaces. The main tradeoff is that you’ll have a longer walk or will need to take buses to get in and out of the center.
With those caveats aside, here’s a quick look at the 5 neighborhoods that I think are your best options:
1. Centro Storico around Piazza Maggiore (purple on the map above)
The vast majority of Bologna’s major sights and landmarks are contained within the large and beautifully preserved historic center, whose heart is the grand Piazza Maggiore square. A stay near the square puts you in the middle of everything, steps from museums, churches, monuments, and great shops, bars, and restaurants. But make no mistake, this is not just a historical showpiece for tourists - the Centro Storico is also the center of the modern city and a hub for everyday life.
2. Former Jewish Ghetto - Ghetto Ebraico (orange above)
I think of this little enclave within the Centro Storico as a peaceful retreat within the city. Once you step off the lively streets that border the neighborhood, you’ll find yourself in a different world, where tall houses line quiet lanes and little squares. Otherworldly as the surroundings are, Piazza Maggiore is just a five-minute walk away.
3. University District (green above)
About a 15-minute walk to the northeast of Piazza Maggiore, the University district, home to Europe’s oldest university, is a predictably youthful part of town where you’ll be surrounded by casual restaurants, lively coffeeshops, cheap and fun bars, and legions of students. It’s a really fun area and is a great choice for the young and young at heart who plan on spending late evenings out (the party often goes late into the night).
4. Saragozza/Colli/Murri (blue above)
Step out through the old city gates to the southwest, south, orsoutheast of the Centro Storico and you’ll be in elegant and refined Saragozza, Colli, and Murri, respectively. In these adjacent upscale neighborhoods the medieval lanes of the center give way to green hillsides, pretty parks, and stately apartment blocks. Colli is especially leafy, Murri is the most elegant, and Saragozza is a bit busier.
5. Bolognina (red above)
Just to the north of the city center and right above the train station, Bolognina is a modern, multicultural, and middle-class neighborhood. The city’s most ethnically diverse area, it’s filled with shops catering to a global clientele and ethnic restaurants serving up great, inexpensive meals. It has become increasingly popular with young Bolognesi in recent years, so you’ll see some trendier spots mixed in as well.
1. Centro Storico (specifically around Piazza Maggiore)
Pros: Busiest part of the city, architecturally gorgeous, loaded with landmarks and attractions, tons of shops and restaurants
Cons: Parts are very touristy, hotels are more expensive than elsewhere
Bologna’s gorgeous Centro Storico
Looking out over the Piazza Maggiore
Strada Maggiore. Photo: Fabrizio Garrisi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
The Basilica di San Petronio, on the Piazza Maggiore
For most visitors, especially anyone here on a short trip, this is where I generally recommend looking for your accommodation. It’s a central, beautiful area that’s filled with things to see and do, has tons of great restaurants, and is always fun and lively, but not excessively touristy. That combination is pretty hard to beat.
Bologna’s large and beautifully preserved historic center, the Centro Storico, is still the busy heart of the city, as it has been since the Middle Ages. It’s lined by a mix of broad streets - like shop-lined Via Indipendenza and sight-filled Via Ugo Bassi/Rizzoli - and a web of weaving narrow alleyways, all of which lead out to countless squares, churches, monuments, and gorgeous medieval palazzi.
Many streets are pedestrianized, while others have sidewalks covered by graceful porticoes, protecting you from the elements should there be any bad weather during your visit. The buildings, many of them dating back to the 14th century or before, are built in Bologna’s characteristic red brick style, and they stand high above the streets, creating an intimate, closed-in atmosphere.
The grand and enormous Piazza Maggiore square lies at the very heart of the city center, and from there, colonnaded streets lined with medieval houses and Renaissance palaces fan out in all directions, leading you to a host of sights, none more impressive than the two medieval (and precariously leaning) towers, the Due Torri, that pierce the skyline.
Most of the main sights and many renowned markets and eateries are on or within easy walking distance of Piazza Maggiore. And while Bologna doesn’t have blockbuster sights like you’ll find in Rome and Florence (no Colosseum! no Uffizi!), it seems that another treasure is tucked away behind every door in the Centro Storico.
The shortlist I give anyone coming to Bologna includes a visit to see the terrifying frescoes of Satan eating doomed souls in the basilica of San Petronio, the moving terracotta figures lamenting the dead Christ in the church of Santa Maria della Vita, and the charming, atmosphere-rich medieval church complex of San Stefano. There’s much more to see, but those are some of the highlights (or my favorites anyways).
But the center of Bologna is not just a tourist playground - you’ll share the animated streets and squares with locals, so staying here amid many of the major landmarks also comes with a chance to experience everyday Italian life as you sit down for a coffee or shop in the city’s famous markets.
Then, of course, there’s the Quadrilatero, a district just east of Piazza Maggiore that’s entirely devoted to food, where little lanes are lined with gourmet shops filled with the region’s famous hams and cheeses.
Where to stay
As I said above, there are tons of hotels in the Centro Storico, ranging from fairly inexpensive to quite high-end. In general, hotels in Bologna are pretty good value, but just be aware that the city often hosts big fairs and conventions, during which hotels will book out way in advance and prices will skyrocket. So always book ahead if you want to stay in the center.
Grand Hotel Majestic Già Baglioni - One of the oldest and most prestigious hotels in the city, this is without doubt my top pick if money isn’t an issue. Everything from the common spaces to the rooms are opulent, and the excellent onsite restaurant is decorated in magnificent frescoes. Its location right on Via dell’Indipendenza is also excellent. Rates start at $500 per night.
Hotel Brun - Just renovated in 2023, I think this is one of the nicer hotels in the city. It’s a tastefully decorated design-hotel, and the rooms are elegant, warm, and inviting - places you want to spend time in. Just a 3-minute walk to Piazza Maggiore, you’ll be in the middle of all the action. $300 per night.
Art Hotel Orologio - Many of the charming rooms in this centuries-old inn, named for the city hall clocktower, provide a glimpse of the Piazza Maggiore, just around the corner. $220 per night.
Hotel Metropolitan - Stylish surroundings just off main thoroughfare Via Independenza are a soothing urbane hideout, complimented by a roof terrace. $185 per night.
Art Hotel Commercianti - The basilica of San Petronio is your next door neighbor at this atmospheric hostelry, where you’ll be swaddled in old-world luxury in what was once Bologna’s town hall. $130 per night.
Phi Hotel Bologna Cappello Rosso - Bologna’s oldest inn, just steps off Piazza Maggiore, has been welcoming guests since the 14th century, but the surroundings are chic and upbeat, and accented with old timbers and other reminders of the provenance. $125 per night.
Albergo delle Drapperie - An atmospheric old inn is set amid the food shops of the lively Quadrilatero food district. $120 per night.
Hotel Roma - Old-fashioned charm, hospitality, and comfort prevail at this Bologna landmark just off Piazza Maggiore. $120 per night.
2. The Jewish Ghetto (Ghetto Ebraico)
Pros: Quiet and peaceful, medieval atmosphere, extremely central
Cons: Relatively few shops and restaurants
Piazza Rossini on Via Zamboni. Photo: GennaroBologna, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
One of the last remaining canals in in Bologna
A street in the Jewish Ghetto. Photo: Daniel Ventura, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
I think of this small medieval neighborhood just north of the city’s famous Due Torri as an enclave within an enclave. Wedged between Via Zamboni and Via Oberdan in the Centro Storico, this quiet neighborhood seems to be a world removed, as it has been since the 16th century, when this center of the Jewish community was shut off from the rest of the city by walls and gates.
The whole neighborhood is filled with tiny little alleyways that mostly branch off from Via dell’Inferno, its main street, and lead into a warren of tall houses lining little passageways and compact squares. It is an absolute pleasure to wander around in.
A stay in one of the Ghetto’s pleasant hotels provides an escape in the midst of the city but, quiet as the surroundings are, it’s still only a five-minute walk to Piazza Maggiore and many of the other places where you’ll want to spend time. Buses also run up and down Via Rizzoli, near the southern edge of the ghetto, for whenever you need to go farther afield.
The main “attraction” here is the Jewish Museum, which tells the story of the neighborhood and Jews/Jewish life in Bologna. Other than this well-done collection, there’s not much else to see or do except soak in the quiet, medieval atmosphere, and for me that’s the appeal.
Some of my favorite vestiges of old Bologna are in the Ghetto or just on the fringes. A short walk up Via Oberdan brings you to Via Piella and a small window, la Finestrella, that opens onto a view of one of the city’s few remaining canals. The waterway that slips quietly between brightly colored houses was once part of an extensive network that, beginning in the 12th century, powered mills and provided transportation around the city.
Overall, this is jus an exceedingly atmospheric part of the city, and considering its central location, is a really excellent place to stay.
Where to stay
Canonica Suites - Beautiful, light-filled, and chicly outfitted apartments bring a modern twist to the medieval surroundings and are a homelike base while exploring the city. $220 per night.
Corona D’Oro - In the former residence of a noble family, pleasant and comfortable rooms and a glass-domed conservatory-like lobby provide a perfect city-center oasis. This is the only full-service hotel in the immediate neighborhood and a longtime favorite of many visitors to Bologna. $175 per night.
Residence le Porte - Large, fully equipped apartments at the southern edge of the Ghetto are steps away from the church of Santo Stefano and other sights and come with views of the Due Torri, some from their own terraces. $170 per night.
YAWHome - Rooms and suites at this old-fashioned and character-filled bed and breakfast are embellished with beams and other architectural flourishes. $120 per night.
Aquaderni Rooms - At this old-fashioned guest house rooms are beautifully done, nicely equipped, and full of character. $85 per night.
3. The University District
Pros: Extremely lively, great nightlife, full of bars, restaurants, and cafés
Cons: All the youthful energy can be overwhelming, especially at 2 AM when a chorus of shouting students on the streets disturbs your sleep
Piazza Giuseppe Verdi on a busy evening
A portico along Via Zamboni in the University quarter. Photo: Giovanni Osbat, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Looking across a square at Basilica di San Giacomo Maggiore. Photo: Papisc, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Porta San Donato, on the edge of the University Quarter. Photo: GFreihalter, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
As you might have guessed, the University District is where you’ll find the University of Bologna, the oldest in Europe, founded in 1088. The university does not have a campus per se, but instead occupies historic palaces and other buildings in the northeast corner of the Centro Storico, along Via Zamboni and the surrounding streets and squares.
With more than 90,000 students attending the university, this attractive and historic neighborhood is overwhelmingly youth-oriented, and coffeeshops, bars, inexpensive eateries, and some of the city’s most popular late-night spots do a brisk business serving a young clientele. The heart of the district is the Piazza Verdi, an impressive square that lies at the entrance to the Teatro Comunale, the city’s main venue for classical music and opera. You’ll find groups of students hanging out in the square from morning until quite late at night, and it’s always lively, with a clear sense of excitement and vitality.
As with the other parts of the Centro Storico, the architecture here is lovely, the streets are charming, and there are pretty little squares all around, making it another delightful part of Bologna where just wandering aimlessly is a pleasure.
Depending on your age, you might enjoy all the youthful energy and the chance to mingle, or you might find it a bit too much. This is hands-down the best neighborhood for night owls, as shops, bars, and cafés stay open very late, and people are out on the street until all hours. Wherever you stay, you won’t have far to stumble home when closing time comes around.
However, if you’re like me and are well beyond college age, you’ll probably still find the neighborhood to be welcoming and fun to visit, but you’ll probably be happy to get back to other parts of town where you’re not the oldest person around.
Piazza Maggiore is just a ten-minute-walk away and most of the city sights are also within easy reach on foot. If you stay here, you’ll rarely need to to use public transportation, but when you do (maybe for the trip to and from the train station, about a 20-minute walk), you’ll find bus stops at Porta San Donato, at the northeastern edge of the neighborhood.
For sightseeing, the University District has several noteworthy landmarks of its own: The 15th-century Palazzo Poggi, the seat of the university on Via Zamboni, houses fascinating and diverse collections of anatomical models, Asian art, maps, and surgical instruments, and the city’s masterpiece-filled art gallery, the Pinacoteca Nazionale, is here, too, in a former seminary on Via delle Belle Arte.
The university’s 500-year old botanical garden, tucked up against the old city walls, enlivens the district with a spot of greenery.
Where to stay
Accommodations in the neighborhood include a few pleasant hotels and a scattering of nice bed and breakfasts. These all do a brisk business with parents visiting from out of town and guests on university business, and, while they are not as luxurious as some of the choices elsewhere in the Centro Storico, they tend to be comfortable and a good value.
Steamhouse - The very large, loft-like accommodations at this stylish little bed and breakfast (just five rooms) have a chic vintage aesthetic and provide homelike comfort in the middle of this youth-oriented neighborhood. $175 per night.
Casa Bertagni - A family converted their comfortable home into a guest house in 1948, and the charming rooms and garden have been a favorite of visiting writers, artists, and politicians ever since. $135 per night.
Hotel Accademia - One of the few full-service hotels in the neighborhood is up to date, with comfortable and attractive rooms—the preferred ones face the courtyard, away from late-night street noise. $125 per night.
Casa Elide - Bologna accommodations don’t get much more friendly than this homey, family-run bed and breakfast, where the brightly colored rooms are comfortable and immaculate. $95 per night.
Almarossa - Many of the attractive units are suites and apartments, making this a good choice for families and groups. $75 per night.
4. Saragozza/Colli/Murri
Pros: Upscale but relaxed, tons of green spaces, easier to park if you have a car
Cons: Far fewer shops and restaurants than the Centro Storico, not many hotels, farther away from the main sights
Santuario della Madonna di San Luca in Saragozza. Photo: Gianni Careddu, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
A typical street in the Murri neighborhood
Looking out at the Saragozza neighborhood from the city gate. Photo: Maretta Angelini, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The pond in the Giardini Margherita park in Colli
These are 3 upscale neighborhoods that between them cover everything to the south of the city center beyond the city walls. As you can see from the map at the top of this article, the area that I’m including here is rather extensive, but I’ve grouped these 3 areas together because they all offer basically the same thing, and which one you choose to stay in among them isn’t especially important.
All three are upscale, mostly local residential neighborhoods that are far greener, calmer, and less densely packed than the Centro Storico. They’re much more modern as well, and they offer a mix of apartment blocks with impressive single family homes. They’re all still totally walkable, but are much more spread out than elsewhere in the city, and start to feel very slightly more suburban.
The streets are broader as well and there’s much more space, so if you’ll have a car when visiting Bologna, these could be especially convenient areas as you’ll be able to find parking.
As for where to stay within them, as long as your accommodation is relatively close to the ring road you’ll be within about a 20-minute walk of the Piazza Maggiore and Bologna’s other big sights. There are also some bus lines that pass through the neighborhoods, and many more that make stops along the ring road, so there are some ok public transit options.
Any of these three neighborhoods is an especially good choice in the summer, when the city can be sweltering and you’ll welcome all the greenery. The Giardini Margherita park, on the border of Colli and Murri, is one of my favorite in-town summer getaways, as it has a lovely pond, big lawns, nice walking and jogging paths, and some pleasant shady spots beneath oaks and plane trees.
Over in Saragozza, the beautiful gardens and park surrounding Villa Spada is another green oasis, while the 36-acre Giardino Lunetta Gamberini in Murri provides tons of recreational opportunities.
Here’s a quick description of each neighborhood to help you differentiate:
Saragozza
Saragozza, outside Porta Saragozza to the southwest, is leafy and pleasant, but less exclusive than Colli or Murri and a bit livelier, especially along its busy shopping street, Via Andrea Costa.
Saragozza is home to one of Bologna’s favorite landmarks and the city’s most popular venue for an outdoor outing: the Portico di San Luca, a 3.5km (2-mile) stretch of covered walkways that climb a green hillside up to the Santuario della Madonna di San Luca. The monumental Certosa di Bologna cemetery is also here, which is filled with sculptures, statues, and impressive mausoleums.
Colli
Refined Colli, just to the south of the center beyond the Porta San Stefano and Porta Castiglione, is sometimes called the Beverley Hills of Bologna, so named for the lovely villas hidden behind walls on its hilly, tree-shaded streets. It’s the richest neighborhood in the city and as many of the homes are single-family and detached, is rather spread out.
If you choose to stay here, you’ll either want to stay very close to the city walls or should have a car. The city’s favorite park, the large Giardini Margherita, is in the neighborhood, and the enormous and beautiful Parco di Villa Ghigi rises up in the hills behind it.
Muri
To the east/southeast of the city center, Murri is another nice neighborhood that feels pretty upper-middle class, and it’s the most densely packed of the 3, so is a good choice if you want to stay in a relaxed and nice area without sacrificing any city conveniences. Like Colli, it borders Giardini Margherita and also has a couple of other nice parks, in addition to the expansive green spaces in the hills to the south. It’s very local and residential, which means there are unfortunately very few hotels.
Where to stay
Being primarily residential neighborhoods, there are not a lot of hotels in Saragozza, Colli, or Murri, but the ones that you’ll find here are often very nice, boutique-style. They often have designated onsite parking too (or street parking nearby), so are super convenient if you’ll have a car.
Villa Savioli B&B - Over in Murri and about a 20-minute walk to Piazza Maggiore, this is a lovely bed and breakfast housed in a beautiful 19th century palazzo. The building has been recently renovated and the rooms and common spaces are comfortable and updated while retaining their historic character. Private onsite parking is a big plus. $200 per night.
Hotel Touring - The green hills just beyond the Centro Storico are a welcome sight from the roof terrace and many of the comfortable, nicely furnished guest rooms. This is one of my favorite hotels in Bologna. From $150-$300 depending on season.
Accademia al Colle - This old villa tucked away high in the hills above the city provides a countrylike getaway, with sweeping views from the charming rooms and apartments, the terraces, and the garden. You’ll probably want to take a taxi back up the hill. $150 per night.
Hotel Porta San Mamolo - I feel like I’m on a country getaway when in the soothing rooms here that face a large garden and the breakfast conservatory. And all the more so since Giardini Margherita and the green hills of Colli are just down the street. $135 per night.
Villa Gotti - The stylish rooms and suites overlook green hills and tree-shaded streets and are just steps away from Giardini Margherita. $130 per night.
B&B La Magnolia - This charming bed and breakfast, in a converted family home run by an amiable mother-daughter team, is on busy Via Andrea Costa, the main shopping street of Saragozza, but it’s set in a flower-filled garden. $100 per night.
I 4 Gatti - At this welcoming Art Nouveau villa in Saragozza just outside the Centro Storico, the book-filled lounge and pretty garden will make you feel like you’re staying in a private home. $100 per night.
5. Bolognina
Pros: Very local & multicultural, great & varied restaurants, next to Bologna Centrale train station, more affordable accommodation
Cons: Modern and not especially pretty architecture, somewhat far from the city center
Looking out toward Bolognina from Parco della Montagnola
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The impressive Parrocchia Sacro Cuore Gesu
Heading straight north from the city center, you’ll reach Bolognina after crossing the city walls and continuing just past the Bologna Centrale train station. A middle-class, close-in neighborhood, its proximity to the train station makes it an a great base from which to explore the wider region, and it also connects directly to the city’s airport via the Marconi Express, an automated aerial tram.
It’s an easy and rather pleasant walk of 25-minutes or so to reach Piazza Maggiore and the main sights, but there are also frequent buses that will take you to all parts of the city, as Bolognina’s Piazza Medaglie d’Oro square is a major transit hub.
Before World War II, Bolognina was an industrial area, but most of the factories have long since moved farther out. Blocks of red-brick apartment houses have gone up in their place, and these days the neighborhood is popular with Bolognese who work in the city and want to live near their jobs, students looking for less expensive housing that’s within easy reach of the university, and in recent years, immigrants from Eastern Europe, North Africa, and Asia.
If you want to feel like a local while visiting, this is probably the best neighborhood to do it.
You’ll sense a multiethnic vibe here that’s not present in some other Italian cities, or most other parts of Bologna for that matter, and among the many non-touristy shops that cater almost exclusively to locals are a lot of Asian and Moroccan markets. You’ll also find Asian restaurants and kebob shops, along with inexpensive but mostly good neighborhood trattorias serving the typical food for which Bologna is famous.
There are also a number of nice parks on any side of the neighborhood, which is a welcome change from the distinct lack of greenery in the historic center. The expansive Parco di Villa Angeletti is the biggest, but others like Parco della Montagnola, with its magnificent staircase, round things out, providing a lot of nice recreational options.
Two of Bologna’s lesser known, but in my mind most affecting sights are in Bolognina, and I always recommend that anyone who comes to town for even a short visit walk out here to see them. One is the Holocaust Memorial, just above the railway tracks at the intersection of Via Carracci and Ponte Matteotti, where two 30-foot-tall steel blocks face each other to form a dark chasm.
The nearby Museo per la Memoria di Ustica, on Via di Saliceto, is an art installation that commemorates the crash of a Bologna - Palermo flight off the Sicilian island of Ustica in 1980, with wreckage of the plane allegedly shot down in error by an Italian military missile, accompanied by haunting sound and light effects.
And with the train station just steps away, the neighborhood is a good base if you want to explore Emilia Romagna and beyond. That’s very much worth considering, because some of Italy’s most art-and-architecture-rich cities are nearby and Bologna is perfectly poised as a base for visiting them on easy day trips.
Where to stay
Aside from a few good hotels, most of the accommodations out here are Airbnbs. These tend to be a little less expensive than those in the center, making Bolognina a good choice for travelers who want to save money and don’t mind the trek into the Centro Storico.
Hotel Sav - The only large, business-oriented hotel in the neighborhood caters to visitors to the nearby convention hall and fairgrounds with stylish rooms and four-star amenities. From $125.
Hotel Il Guercino - Colorful lounges and comfortable guest rooms at my favorite neighborhood lodging choice are warm, welcoming and slightly bohemian, and bikes are on hand for a ride into the center. From $90.
Liluna - This friendly bed and breakfast houses guests in nice but fairly basic rooms that come with coffee makers, a shared kitchen, and some other welcome amenities. From $80.
Hola Bologna - All of the large rooms at this friendly little hotel have balconies, and studios, with kitchens and pullout couches, are a good choice for families. From $75.
Social Hub - This Bologna outlet of a popular European hospitality group offers pleasant, functional accommodation for short or long-term stays, along with shared workspaces, and a bar and restaurant. The swimming pool is a welcome summertime perk. From $75.
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