Where to Stay in Florence - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide
Florence, my hometown and the place I still call home, is an ancient city with a lovely historic core that’s densely packed in a somewhat rambling, medieval layout. Like many Italian cities, Florence wasn’t designed to accommodate a vastly growing population, and today it can be looked at as two distinct areas: the historic core and the modern part of town, which encircles the center.
Within its historic core, the winding, narrow streets are exceedingly atmospheric, but can also feel almost claustrophobic at times, and they certainly don’t allow for easy access by car. While that makes everyday life somewhat difficult, I think that adds to the appeal of staying in this part of town, as it’s where you’l get the clearest sense of what this Renaissance gem was like hundreds of years ago.
All of Florence’s treasures - its museums, great works of art, palaces, churches, and best restaurants - are concentrated within this core, which can easily be walked from one end to the other in as little as 40 minutes. From a sightseeing perspective, it couldn’t be more convenient.
Of course, being one of the most visited cities in the world, Florence’s historic center has in some ways given itself over to tourism, and the locals who once lived here have steadily been moving out to the newer parts of the city for years (both for the convenience of modern apartments and because of tourism-driven rising costs). While that takes away from the ambiance a bit, Florence is somewhere you primarily visit to see Renaissance masterpieces, so I’d prioritize access to those over seeing “how the locals live” (our lives aren’t all that interesting anyways!).
I’ve spent a good portion of my 30+ years exploring this city, so I think I have a pretty good feel for the various neighborhoods and what makes some of them better places to stay than others. Below, I’ve recommended 4 neighborhoods in the historic center, all of which are the very same ones that I suggest to friends when they come to visit. They’re all centrally located and convenient for sightseeing, so which one is best for you will depend mostly on the atmosphere that you’re looking for.
Let’s dig in!
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Overview of Florence’s layout
For its size (400,000 residents), Florence is a very compact city and its layout today still clearly reflects its medieval roots. The historic center, which originally extended out from the Duomo (the city’s cathedral), is where nearly all of the city’s attractions are located, and it’s the most atmospheric part of town.
To understand what this area includes, look on a map and take the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio bridge as your reference points: the historic core is essentially the small area crowded around the southern side of the bridge and then everything on the northern side extending out to the city’s ring road, labeled as SS67 on maps.
Another key feature is the Arno river, which divides the historic center into two parts known as “di qua d’Arno” (this side of the Arno) and “di là d’Arno” or “Oltrarno” (the other side of the Arno). These two sides are not equal: the larger side, the “di qua d’Arno”, includes the three sizeable historic quarters of San Giovanni, Santa Maria Novella, and Santa Croce, as well as most of the modern city stretching beyond them. Across the river in the Oltrarno (“di là d’arno), it’s much smaller, with just the 3 little neighborhoods of Santo Spirito, San Niccolò, and San Frediano.
The city developed in this way because hills rise up almost immediately beyond the Oltrarno, forming a natural barrier that makes construction quite difficult. While the hills are a natural boundary, there’s also a man-made one here: the still-intact historic city walls clearly define the edge of the neighborhood, anchored by the hilltop Forte Belvedere, which offers one of the best views of the city.
Moving beyond the historic center (everything outside of the ring road that I mentioned above), the city begins to feel much more residential and far less magical. There aren’t many sights of interest to visitors, fewer shops and restaurants, and the evenings can feel fairly quiet and dull. These areas are designed for residents, not visitors, so they cater to regular daily life, not people in town for just a couple of days.
For more info on the city, see our guide to Florence to and 3-day Florence itinerary.
Summary of my 4 recommended neighborhoods
As I just mentioned above, modern Florence has expanded well beyond its ancient core, with development and construction responding to population growth and the demands of its residents for the conveniences of modern construction and development.
Those newer neighborhoods don’t offer much for visitors, as the buildings aren’t especially pretty or historic, there are essentially no sights to explore, and they’re not set up to accommodate tourists. They’re really just residential areas, and evenings can feel pretty quiet and dull, especially if you’re here on vacation.
With that in mind, the four neighborhoods that I’ve recommended below are all within the historic core. This is the part of the city where the Renaissance was born and it’s where you’ll find the incredible collections of artistic masterpieces, monuments, famous landmarks, and grand palazzi. By far the most beautiful and atmospheric area of the city, just about everything of touristic interest is here, so it just makes sense as your base.
And while I know you may find yourself thinking “but aren’t those areas super touristy?” - they are! -, that’s a small price to pay for the charm and convenience that they offer. Florence is one of the most visited cities in the world, so you were never going to be able to avoid fellow tourists anyways.
Here’s a quick overview of the 4 neighborhoods that I think make the most sense for visitors:
Oltrarno (red above)
Personally, this is my favorite neighborhood in the city. The Oltrarno is, in many ways, the most authentic and artistic area of the historic center. Long known for its artisan workshops and studios (many of which still remain), it’s preserved the romanticism of the old city better than anywhere else. And being slightly removed from the big sights on the other side of the river, it’s less intensely touristy, even if not a “hidden gem”.
Santa Croce (purple above)
Santa Croce, on the southeastern side of the city center, is the liveliest and most fun area of Florence, offering a nice mix of tourists and locals, who mainly come here in the evenings to eat and drink. The predominant mood is that of festivity, with an upbeat, cheerful vibe usually filling the streets.
San Giovanni/San Marco (green above)
The San Giovanni neighborhood, centered around/between the cathedral and Ponte Vecchio, is where many of Florence’s most significant historical sites, artistic works, and prettiest buildings are concentrated. For convenience to the big sights, this neighborhood is simply unbeatable. It’s by far the most touristy part of the city though, and it can feel a little bit like a Disneyland version of a real city.
If you want to stay close by but in a more local area, San Marco, just to the north, is a good choice.
Santa Maria Novella (blue on the map above)
On the western side of the historic center, this is where you’ll find Florence’s train station. The area around the station is heavily commercial and always busy, with lots of shops, casual restaurants (not always the best though), and more affordable accommodation. It becomes relatively atmospheric as you move toward either the river or the Duomo, and you’ll find lots of small, typical streets, pleasant squares, and pretty Renaissance-era buildings.
1. Oltrarno
Pros: Wonderful atmosphere, great restaurants and bars, not overly touristy
Cons: On the other side of the river away from the main city center sights
Just across the Arno River to the south of the rest of the Centro Storico (Historic Center), the Oltrarno is my favorite part of Florence. Once a predominantly working class area, it’s now much more upscale than it used to be (and a fair deal more touristy), but it’s still home to many artisans and artists, whose workshops and studios you’ll find all over the neighborhood.
Technically three separate neighborhoods, San Frediano; Santo Spirito; and San Niccolò, going from west to east, I’ve included them all together because they’re quite close to one another and I don’t think it especially matters which of the three you stay in. While you’ll find tourists all over the Oltrarno, it’s significantly less touristy than anywhere in the historic core north of the River.
Thanks to the hills that rise up quickly to the south of the neighborhood, most everything here is stretched out along the river, clustered tightly along its southern banks.
In San NIccolò, which lies just beneath Piazzale Michelangelo, you’ll find a few excellent luxury hotels, albeit at high prices. Very narrowly confined right beside the river, the options here are limited, as there just isn’t space to build. Many artists and artisans are based here, and you’ll find hidden shops and boutiques, along with with the workshops of painters, carpenters, and other craftspeople.
Moving west towards Santo Spirito, between Ponte Vecchio and Porta San Frediano, you'll discover an area that I think perfectly balances the best of Florence’s many attributes: lots of art and handicrafts, a few major attractions, great restaurants, plenty of nightlife, and an authentic Florentine energy. Personally, if I were visiting Florence, this is where I’d stay.
On the western edge of the Oltrarno, toward Ponte della Vittoria, you'll reach the area of San Frediano, which quickly transitions into a more residential, local area. You’ll still find lots of pretty architecture, as well as shops and restaurants geared toward locals more than tourists. Hotel options are more affordable as well.
As I said above, there are some major sights in this part of town (Palazzo Pitti, Boboli Gardens, etc.), but I think the biggest pleasure when visiting is simply wandering and exploring.
I have a few favorite walks here, two of which are fairly obvious: the first is the walk from Porta San Niccolò up to Piazzale Michelangelo. To get there, you’ll walk along a series of stairways past well-kept gardens (the Giardino delle Rose is wonderful!). At the top, you’ll have a great view of Florence and will see street musicians and maybe even a marriage proposal or two - predictable, yes, but always lovely to witness.
From there, head back down to the river and stroll beside it all the way from Ponte San Niccolò to the Ponte Vecchio. Look out for rowers and boaters cruising on the river below you.
The third walk is my personal favorite. It starts from Porta San Miniato, one of the few remaining gates still connected to the ancient city walls, and climbs past hundreds of olive trees until you reach Forte di Belvedere. The fort offers what is, in my opinion, the best view in the city.
Offering more than just great views, this is also a lively neighborhood filled with places to go out and have fun. All along Borgo San Frediano and Via Santo Spirito, you'll find countless spots to grab a drink or enjoy a meal. It’s the perfect area to hop from one place to the next, wandering in at random and seeing how it goes.
One of my favorite combinations is having an aperitivo at Il Santino, and then heading next door to ll Santo Bevitore for dinner. Piazza Santo Spirito, is another unmissable spot, surrounded on all sides by bars and restaurants. At night, it's one of the most enjoyable places to be in the city.
Where to stay
Hotel Lungarno: Elegant and refined, with breathtaking views of the Arno and original works of art. Here, Ponte Vecchio is your next-door neighbor, offering a once-in-a-lifetime experience. $500-$100 USD per night depending on the season.
Hotel Palazzo Guadagni: A historic building with a spectacular terrace overlooking Piazza Santo Spirito and its church, perfect for relaxing away from tourist crowds while still being steps away from bars and restaurants. $300 per night.
Soprarno Suites - On the top floors of an old mansion and filled with vintage furnishings, this is an appropriately bohemian, albeit luxurious, base in middle of the Oltrarno, the city’s artisan quarter. $250-$300 per night.
Hotel Horto: A 4-star hotel with a contemporary design and a relaxed atmosphere, set within a well-preserved portion of the city's ancient walls. Slightly on the edge of the historic center, offering a quieter and more reserved option. $250 per night.
Serristori Palace: An elegant residence overlooking the Arno, perfect for those wanting to experience Florence in style without really breaking the bank. $250 per night.
Spirit of Florence: A boutique little guesthouse right on Piazza Santo Spirito, the hotel has only a few rooms, which are charmingly decorated and surprisingly spacious. With triples and suites, it’s a great option if traveling in a group. $150-$250.
Hotel Silla: A convenient and comfortable option with a warm, family-friendly atmosphere. A smart choice that doesn't sacrifice the neighborhood's local vibe while staying within reach of the main attractions. $150-$200 per night.
B&B Il Beatrice: A historic building right next to the Pitti Palace and Piazza Santo Spirito, this is a pleasant little hotel that the owners still actually live in. Good value for a great location. $130-$180 per night.
2. Santa Croce
Pros: Very lively with great nightlife, easy access to Florence’s main sights, local feel in parts
Cons: Can be loud in the evenings, some parts are very touristy
On the southeastern side of the city center, beginning just above the Arno River, Santa Croce is a lovely area with a permanently festive mood. It’s more touristy than the Oltrarno, but not overwhelmingly so, and lots of locals still live here. And while it’s mostly historic and has lots of pretty architecture, parts of it are more “modern” (by Florentine standards) than the absolute center, so you’ll find some newer construction here.
The north of the neighborhood, around the Sant’Ambrogio market (definitely go there for great food!), is quieter, more local, and fairly residential. Here, there a few nice hotels clustered around the lovely and serene Piazza d'Azeglio. It’s slightly farther from the neighborhood’s and other city center sights, but offers a nice chance to see local life while still in the center of the city, which is rare.
To the south, moving toward the river, it’s more upscale (more touristy too), and you’ll find lots of fun bars and places to go out. The streets and squares here are always lively, especially after dinner, and the stretch of Via dei Benci between the Teatro Verdi and the river is one of my favorite places for an evening stroll and some drinks. Karakoe at “Red Garter” is always a blast, drinks at “Kikuya” are great, and if you want a big night of dancing, “XO Club” is a good choice.
For a more local night of festivities, set out along Via Pietrapiana/Borgo la Croce (same street, different names), a narrow little street filled with restaurants, bars, and shops, where Florentines are always out until very late at night. So join them in partying, eating, and drinking for as long as you’d like.
When it comes to big sights, there are a few that stand out: the Basilica of Santa Croce faces a beautiful square (Piazza di Santa Croce) where, every year on June 24th, the historic Calcio Storico match takes place. For the match, the square is filled with sand and bleachers are set up, and then a very ancient, and also very violent version of football is played. It’s a thrill to watch.
Behind the basilica, you can enter through a small alley into the Scuola del Cuoio, a place where artisans and apprentices produce and sell high-quality leather goods. There’s also the Synagogue and Jewish Museum, built in an Arabic style and one of the most important structures of its kind in Europe. And for a bit of art, major museums like the Bargello and Orsanmichele are just a few streets away over in San Giovanni.
Where to stay
Hotel Portrait Firenze: Pure luxury with views of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio, where every detail is meticulously considered for a truly exclusive stay. The prices are way out of reach for basically everyone (me included), but if you can swing it, it’s an incredible hotel. From $1,000 USD per night.
Hotel Bernini Palace: This luxurious historic palace right behind Piazza della Signoria, with elegant rooms and impeccable service is the best if you are dreaming of living in noble Florence, like a true $350-$500 per night.
Hotel Calimala: You can't get more central than this. Surrounded by historic palaces and monuments, this modern boutique hotel with an artistic touch is perfect for those expecting full immersion in Florence's Renaissance history. $300 per night.
Villa Tortorelli: A historic structure with an elegant atmosphere and beautiful inner gardens, perfect for a romantic and relaxing stay in a slightly more peripheral area of the historic center. $250 per night.
Locanda de Ciomp: A small, cozy inn right in front of one of the city's most energic nightlife streets, ideal for those seeking an authentic experience without giving up tranquility. $150 per night.
Casa Leopardi: Along Via Verdi and just a few blocks from Teatro Verdi and the Sant Ambrogio Market, this is a great budget hotel with an excellent location just a few minutes from all the city center sights but removed enough to be pretty quiet. $100-$150 per night.
3. San Giovanni/San Marco
Pros: You’re right in the center of everything; walking distance to all the main attractions and other neighborhoods, and surrounded by Renaissance masterpieces
Cons: Extremely touristy, with most restaurants and shops catering exclusively to visitors. Higher prices for just about everything
The absolute heart of historic Florence, this is where the most of the city's great artistic works, monuments, landmarks, churches, and gorgeous buildings and squares are located. It’s almost absurd how much history and artistic and architectural splendor is concentrated here, contained within only a few blocks. With heavily pedestrianized streets, it’s also a pleasure to wander around, as you rarely have to worry about cars.
Simply put, this is the Florence you’ve seen photos of and dreamed about visiting. Why haven’t I chosen it as my favorite neighborhood then? Well, because it’s overwhelmed with tourists. Almost nobody lives here anymore, and just about everything in the area is centered around tourism. Apartments have been converted into short-term rentals, hotel prices are expensive, and a huge number of the restaurants are focused on serving tourists rather than locals.
So, I guess what I’m trying to say is that staying here is an act in compromise: on the one hand, you’ll be in the heart of Italy’s Renaissance masterpiece, just steps away from the Duomo and Brunelleschi Dome, Piazza della Signoria, Piazza della Repubblica, Uffizi Gallery, Ponte Vecchio, and countless other marquee sights. For sightseeing and experiencing the glory of Florence, this area simply cannot be beat.
On the other hand, you’ll be routinely surrounded by crowds of other tourists, will have to be careful choosing restaurants to avoid the tourist traps, and will pay higher prices for accommodation. Like I said, it’s a tradeoff, but as long as you know what to expect, it’s a perfectly reasonable one. And of course, you’re still within easy walk of all the other central neighborhoods, so you can always head over to any of them when you want an easier time finding good restaurants or want to mingle with locals.
For a good middle ground, I’d suggest staying just to the north of here, in the adjacent neighborhood of San Marco. Basically, as soon as you cross north over Via Guelfa/Via degli Alfani and up until you reach the SS67 ring road, it quickly becomes much more local and residential. The Unveristà degli Studi di Firenze is here, so it can also be quite fun to see all the students coming and going from their classes. The atmosphere is always fun and lively, especially during the day before the students have returned home.
I’ve already mentioned lots of the major sights in the neighborhood above, and I’m not going to name each of them because there are just too many. Besides, I think you get the picture: it’s all here. I do want to share some less obvious ideas with you though: whenever you visit the Piazza della Signoria, stop for a coffee or quick meal at either Caffè Perseo and Rivoire, two historic cafes.
Alternatively, head over to Piazza della Repubblica and choose between Caffè Paszkowski and Caffè Gilli, two famous bars that may just be the best options in the city for an aperitivo (they’re expensive though).
For another Florentine classic, grab a focaccia at I Fratellini on Via dei Cimatori. And if you find yourself on Via Panicale (near the central market), stop in for a bottle of Chianti Classico wine at the charming Divina Enoteca.
Be sure to also go for a wander down Via Cavour, one of Florence’s grandest streets, lined by monumental buildings and Palaces, like the Palazzo Medici Ricciardi, once home to the Medici Family. At the northern end of the street, Piazza San Marco is known for its beautiful church that hosts organ performances. If you’re lucky, they’ll be playing when you visit. The famous Accademia Gallery, with the David statue is right there, as are the lovely Botanical and Gerardesca gardens.
And finally, my favorite place in the entire city: the Medici Chapels. An unbelievably beautiful and ornate building, this is the resting place for members of this famed family and it showcases their opulence and the extraordinary wealth they amassed.
Where to stay
Il Tornabuoni - A medieval palazzo-turned-hotel, they’ve been welcoming guests for almost 200 years, and these days they are hosted in chic, frescoed surroundings and enjoy a roof terrace high above the city’s most stylish shopping street. $400+ USD.
Palazzo Castri 1874: A more relaxed option overlooking Piazza Indipendenza, offering a quieter, less crowded environment. Features include a spa and a mix of modern design with classic elements. $300-$400 per night.
Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo: An elegant and historic hotel offering a unique stay with exceptional, personalized hospitality and breathtaking views of the Duomo. $350 per night.
Hotel Spadai: A modern, boutique hotel just steps away from the Duomo and with very comfortable, chic rooms. $250-$400 per night.
B&B Hotel Firenze Laurus al Duomo: A more modern hotel with its main strength being the proximity to the Duomo. It offers spacious rooms at an honest price, with access to a panoramic terrace with one of the most beautiful views of Florence. Prices range from $200-$300 per night.
Corte Guelfa: With a welcoming atmosphere combining contemporary comfort and vintage charm, this hotel is excellently located near the San Lorenzo market, perfect for stepping out and exploring places to eat and drink. $150-300 per night (their rates vary significantly by season).
Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti: Up in a quieter part of San Marco, this is a former monastery from the 16th century that’s loaded with old world character and comforts. $150 to $300.
Reisdenza San Gallo 79: A very nicely renovated B&B up in quiet San Marco, just a quick walk north of the Duomo area. Rooms are big and bright, with high ceilings. $100 to $200 per night.
4. Santa Maria Novella
Pros: More affordable accommodation, always busy, convenient access to the train station
Cons: Fairly commercial/business oriented, rather crowded, not the best ambiance
Santa Maria Novella, on the western side of the historic center (just a couple of minutes’ walk away from the Duomo and other attractions), is where you’ll find the city’s train station, also called Santa Maria Novella. This is a lively commercial hub, filled with businesses, shops, and fast-casual restaurants.
This part of the neighborhood is especially convenient if you’re planning to do any day trips to surrounding areas, and it has a large number of surprisingly affordable hotels, but it’s a bit grittier than anywhere else I’ve mentioned in this article.
The southern side of the neighborhood, moving toward the Arno river, is a somewhat newer part of the city center, so it’s a bit more modern and also has good value hotels, as well as what I think is a more pleasant atmosphere. It’s a little less commercial and feels more relaxed. This is generally where I’d suggest staying.
Starting down by the river and heading east, the area between Piazza Ognissanti and Palazzo Strozzi is especially nice, and as you walk between them the atmosphere becomes increasingly pleasant. In general, the neighborhood is more historic and traditionally Florentine the closer you get to Centro Storico. Approaching the Duomo and Palazzo Strozzi, you start to feel small in front of the large buildings, impressive monuments, and sophisticated and opulent style.
No matter which part of Santa Maria Novella you choose to stay in, just know that there will be lots of other tourists. The easy access to the train station and super short walk to the city center landmarks, along with its relative affordability, make this a perennially popular choice for visitors, especially anyone on a budget.
One of the things I like about this area is that it has fewer “must see” sights than a lot of the rest of the center. I know that feels counterintuitive, but I think it’s nice to be in a neighborhood that isn’t filled with museums or monuments, as it means you can just relax and hang out when you’re there.
With that in mind, here are some of the things I like to do when here: Before visiting any monument or museum I always recommend an “exploratory walk”. In Santa Maria Novella, that means starting at the train station and continuing down Via Panzani, where you can catch a great view of the Duomo. Check out Piazzi degli Antinori too, and then make your way south along Via Tornabuoni, which is always decorated with lights and adornments, as well as luxury stores with eye popping prices.
If you’re a runner (or just like pleasant strolls), the riverfront Lungarno Vespucci is a great spot to take a jog, leading out to the lovely and leafy Parco delle Cascine.
When its comes to eating, this is actually a really good area, with a lot of longstanding charming little spots. Starting from Piazza Ognissanti, there are a number of small streets very typical of old Florence, each with some great places to grab a bite to eat or enjoy a good drink. My favorites are Trattoria 13 Gobbi, Enoteca Vigna Nuova, and Manifattura.
For a very local experience, head up to the area around Via Faenza, which is packed with bars and restaurants. It really comes alive in the evening, but it has a number of historic businesses to be visited during the day, like Il Cantuccio di San Lorenzo, where I always like to treat myself to a bag of excellent traditional Florentine cantucci (biscuits).
Of course, no description of this neighborhood would be complete without mentioning the Piazza Santa Maria Novella, where you can enjoy an aperitivo in the evening or lunch during the day, or simply have a coffee with a great view of of one of Florence’s most beautiful churches, the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella.
Where to stay
The St. Regis Florence: If you want to stay in absolute luxury and budget is no issue, this is always one of my top recommendations. Located in front of Piazza Ognissanti, with a terrace overlooking the river, the only thing better than the view is the luxuriousness of the rooms themselves. $1000 USD+ per night.
NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa: Located in the more historical part of the center, where you can even smell the Florentine air. Once you step out of the hotel, you’re fully immersed in the grand palaces of the historic center, and it’s very close to all the major attractions, not only in this neighborhood but also in Santa Croce and San Giovanni. $500 per night.
Hotel L’Orologio: A clock-themed hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella, with a terrace overlooking the church. Its close proximity to the train station and center is excellent, but the surrounding area is a bit noisy. $300-400 per night.
Grand Hotel Baglioni: A large historic hotel in Florence, where great celebrities sometimes stay. The structure is imposing, and being a historic hotel, it offers very attentive and precise service, with the option to choose from multiple onsite restaurants and bars. $150-$300 (big seasonal variation).
Residenza Fiorentina: Basic but adequate 3-star hotel right on Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Good value and close to the river, big sights, and train station. $100-$200 per night.
La Porta del Paradiso: House in a lovely 16th century building on the outer edge of Santa Maria Novella between two lovely gardens, this is a good budget option at $100-$150 per night.
More Florence & Tuscany travel info
For more advice on planning your trip to Florence and Tuscanyl, have a look at some of our other guides and itineraries!