Where to Stay in Milan - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide
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Anyone who thinks they know Italy will tell you to skip Milan, but anyone who really knows Italy will tell you Milan isn’t to be missed. I was once guilty of the former myself. Before I visited my now adopted city for the first time, I would ignorantly repeat what others told me about it: “It’s gray, and there’s nothing to see there but the Duomo and the Last Supper.”
I moved to the Lombard capital 12 years ago, and, honestly, I’ve never felt more at home anywhere. I can confirm that this perception is pure myth. Milan is Italy’s best unkept secret, yet it remains overlooked, misunderstood, and undervalued, and most people get it wrong, so they leave here with just a cursory experience that barely scratches the surface.
Admittedly, it’s not an easy city to get to know. Its many layers aren’t evident at first glance, so the neighborhood you stay in can influence not just what you experience, but also how whether or not you feel like you’ve connected with the city. To understand that depth, it helps to look out how the city is laid out.
Unlike many major cities, landlocked Milan lacks a defining geographical feature, such as a river, to organize itself around. Instead, the city unfolds in a series of concentric rings, rippling outward from the historic center. Within them, you’ll find remnants from every era of its history, often standing side by side: Roman, medieval, Renaissance, Art Nouveau, postwar, modernism, and not only. That layered contrast is part of what makes Milan feel so complex and compelling.
The further you branch out from the center, the city sheds its touristy sheen, and the neighborhood you choose can enhance or diminish the experience of your stay in the city. Some are ideal for classic sightseeing, while others are better suited for families or design lovers, and still others offer a deeper, more local immersion.
I’ve broken down the Milan neighborhoods I most often recommend with details to help you find the one that suits your trip best.
And once you've figured out where to stay, have a look at our 3-day Milan itinerary for ideas on what to see & do!
Table of Contents
Overview of Milan’s layout
Milan, with its 3 concentric rings defining the city’s various areas. Photo: Dr. Blofeld, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Though Milan is nowhere near as large as London, it’s similarly sprawled in a way that encourages branching out. The city is shaped by three concentric rings, with the historic center at its core, and this circular layout provides the framework for the city’s overall urban design.
The innermost ring follows the path of the ancient Roman walls, and both within and along its fringes you’ll find what’s considered Milan’s historic center, a hub cradling the city’s major sights and landmarks: the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the Golden Rectangle (Quadrilatero d’Oro), and just beyond it, the Brera district, Sforza Castle, and Santa Maria delle Grazie, home to Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper.
The Cinque Vie neighborhood also falls within the innermost ring. While technically part of the historic center, it’s nestled cozily into its own small nook, giving it a distinct, somewhat removed feel, which is why it’s often referenced separately.
Though, the historic center isn’t defined solely by what’s within the Roman walls, as Sforza Castle, the Brera and The Last Supper lie on the outer perimeter, within the second ring, which traces the path of the 16th-century Spanish walls, remnants of Milan’s fortified past under Spanish rule from 1535 to 1706. Also within this loop is most of Porta Venezia, a neighborhood east of the Duomo, and the Isola neighborhood north of the city center.
Lastly, the outermost ring includes districts like Isola in the north and the Navigli in the south, where Milan’s canal-city roots come into focus. The once-extensive network, commissioned in the 1200s and expanded over centuries, linked the city to the countryside.
Quick summary of my 5 recommended neighborhoods
Most visitors to Milan, especially first-timers, are naturally drawn to the Duomo and the Brera as they’re close to the major sights. Plus, there is something reassuring about being in the center of it all. Indeed, I felt the same way on my first visit. But I soon came to learn that the center isn’t Milan’s be-all end-all. The neighborhood is convenient and ticks a lot of boxes for most travelers, but I think it’s worth giving other neighborhoods a chance, as the center isn’t the most ideal backdrop for getting to know the city.
Milan is both highly walkable and well-connected by public transport, a convenience that’s only improved with the recent expansion of the M4 (blue) metro line. So, navigating the city by metro, tram, or even on foot is remarkably easy. Its centermost zone is just a quick metro ride or enjoyable stroll away from most of the neighborhoods.
Where to stay in Milan depends on what matters most to you. Do you want to be in the heart of the action? Are you comfortable using public transport, or would you prefer to rely on it as little as possible? Is your priority sightseeing, or would you rather immerse yourself in local rhythms by staying in a neighborhood that feels more lived-in than touristy? Do you prefer less-obvious museums? Are you in town to shop? Do you want to be within walking distance of buzzy restaurants?
Below, you’ll find five neighborhoods I’ve selected, each with its own personality and each well suited to different types of travelers.
1. Cinque Vie (red on the map above)
A warren of winding streets tucked just southwest of the Duomo, Cinque Vie flies under the radar. It’s close to the city’s main attractions but offers a quieter, more old-world feel: historic and atmospheric without the crowds.
If you’re going to be in town for more than a night or two and want to be well-connected without feeling overwhelmed by the crowds, base yourself here. It’s footsteps from the Duomo, but it feels a world away. I love this neighborhood, and I would have stayed here my first time if I had known about it.
2. Porta Venezia (purple above)
This vivacious neighborhood on Milan’s eastern side isn’t directly in the center, but it’s central enough to feel connected. If you want to “live” the city rather than just visit it, Porta Venezia is an ideal choice.
It’s a sprawling, loosely defined zone that blends everyday Milanese life with great walkability and transit links. You’ll get a genuine local vibe without sacrificing easy access to the city’s major sights.
3. The Duomo and Brera (black/grey above)
Located in the heart of the city and forming part of the historic center, the Duomo and neighboring Brera are an obvious choice for first-time visitors, offering easy access to most of Milan’s most iconic sights. This is where I stayed on my first trip, and I loved being surrounded by quintessential Milan.
It’s well connected by public transport, and an ideal base for travelers who want to prioritize sightseeing and convenience. Just keep in mind that, as Milan’s central tourism hub, the area feels more polished and touristy than other parts of the city.
4. Navigli (blue above)
Located in the southwest part of the city, the Navigli is romantic by day and rowdy by night. Canal-crossed and full of character, it’s one of Milan’s most vibrant and talked-about neighborhoods.
If you’re looking to experience the local social scene or want to be surrounded by classic European charm (think canals, vintage trams, and quaint architecture), this is the place. That said, if you're sensitive to noise, you might want to stay elsewhere.
5. Isola (yellow above)
Just north of the Garibaldi train station, Isola offers a window into contemporary Milanese life. While it’s still home to longtime locals, the neighborhood has steadily attracted young professionals and families. It’s hip but not too hipstery, with pockets that even feel surprisingly suburban.
If you’re less focused on ticking off landmarks and more interested in soaking up the city’s daily rhythm, Isola is a wise choice.
Map of my suggested hotels
For anyone who’s just looking for a quick collection of suggested hotels and doesn’t want to read through my individual neighborhood overviews below, here’s a map of Milan that shows all the hotels that I’ve recommended throughout this guide.
These are spread across the 5 neighborhoods that I’ve suggested that you stay in, and they encompass a wide range of star levels and nightly prices, so everyone should be able to find something to suit their preferences.
And if you want to know more about the hotels, you’ll find quick descriptions of each of them in the “Where to stay” sections of the relevant neighborhood overviews below.
Happy (hotel) hunting!
1. Cinque Vie
Best for: Shopping enthusiasts, creatives, early sleepers, those that enjoy low-key evenings
Pros: Quiet, full of character, close to the center but away from the worst crowds
Cons: Not super exciting food scene, evenings die down early
Piazza San Sepolcro. Photo: Paolobon140, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Casa Radice Fosatti in the Cinque Vie. Photo: Melancholia~itwiki, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
The courtyard of the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. Photo: Clippa70, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropepd
Piazza Borromeo in the Cinque Vie. Photo: G.dallorto, Attribution, via Wikimedia Commons
The Cinque Vie neighborhood, southeast of the Duomo, is tucked into a maze of narrow streets behind the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, Via Torino (a bustling shopping artery), and the San Lorenzo district. Close to the main sights without feeling overrun nor out of the way, it’s a less frenetic alternative to the Duomo and Brera (the absolute city center).
When it comes to Milan’s medieval charm, the Brera often springs to mind first. And while the Brera is undeniably alive and full of treasures, I’d argue that Cinque Vie, named for the “five roads” that converge there, deserves equal attention. Once a Roman trading hub, the district is home to a fascinating architectural hodgepodge (Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassical, and more) in a Medieval layout, reflecting Milan’s deeply layered history.
Compact yet full of character, Cinque Vie is both historic and contemporary. It may be the most quintessentially Italian-feeling pocket of Milan, with its winding medieval street plan, tight sidewalks, and photogenic architecture. It’s prime people-watching territory, where locals linger at cafés or stroll unhurriedly with their dogs.
Property here is considered gold - no one wants to part with their real estate, so expect a mix of long-time locals and a generation of younger professionals and families who’ve inherited homes with the occasional creative and rare newbie thrown in for good measure.
A walk through the neighborhood reveals a mix of boutiques, galleries, and artisan workshops - keep an eye out for Roman remnants hiding in plain sight. With few (if any) chain stores, this refreshingly uncommercial district feels more like a village than a shopping destination. If you're looking for thoughtful gifts - or to treat yourself to a little something - this is the place.
I should point out though, that for anyone seeking nightlife, you won’t find it here. Shops close early, and the streets fall quiet soon after dark. But that makes it suited to early risers or anyone seeking a peaceful night’s sleep.
On the dining front, the standout is Confine, a gourmet pizzeria currently ranked fourth best in the world. San Mauri is a lovely trattoria for 0-kilometer food, and you can satisfy your sweet tooth at Antica Confetteria Romanengo. Otherwise, the fare leans more classic than cutting-edge.
Culturally, the area boasts a few gems. In addition to the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, whose library displays Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus, you’re also close to the Milan Archaeology Museum.
If you're visiting in April, prepare for a shift in tempo. During Design Week, the neighborhood transforms into a buzzing hub for FuoriSalone, the city’s unofficial offshoot of Salone del Mobile. It’s easily one of the most exciting times to explore and even access some buildings that are usually closed to the public.
I love this neighborhood, and I would live here if I could. It’s a perfect base for culture vultures or travelers who want to be close to the main sights, but prefer a quieter, more local experience. It moves at a slower pace, and has a small-town atmosphere, which is ideal if you want a more local feel.
If you’re chasing nightlife or buzzy, late-night energy, this isn’t the place. Early risers, families, and visitors who want a peaceful stay imbued with old-world character will enjoy Cinque Vie as their base.
Where to stay
Casa Brivio - Housed in a 15th-century palazzo, this design-forward, 16-room boutique property expresses quiet Milanese elegance. Each room is distinct, and the ambiance feels more like a stylish private residence than a traditional hotel. $400 USD per night
Hotel Mentana - Modern 4-star hotel that's especially well-suited for business travelers, but nicely avoids the sterile feel that characterizes corporate accommodation. If you’re traveling by car, there's the added convenience of a private garage on-site. The hotel will be closed in July and August 2025 for a renovation. $360 USD per night
Santa Marta Suites - Set in an elegant 18th-century building, this 11-room boutique hotel features a great rooftop terrace on which you can have breakfast with a view of the city. An actually good on-site restaurant adds to the appeal, especially considering that the neighborhood doesn't have a great dining scene. $250 USD per night
Hotel Regina - At the southern edge of Cinque Vie (moving in the direction of the Navigli area), this mid-sized hotel is one of very few decent midrange options in the historic center. $200-300 USD per night.
Grand Hotel Duca di York - Set in a historic building very close to the Duomo, this little 3-star hotel isn't fancy, but the rooms are big, cheerful, and comfortable. It's a very good deal for the location. $235 USD per night
2. Porta Venezia
Best for: Foodies, architecture lovers, LGBTQ+, urbanites
Pros: Lively, well-connected, lots of green spaces, offers a feel of authentic Milan
Cons: A bit distant from the main sights, Corso Buenos Aires is always crowded, some streets on Corso Buenos Aires’ northern side can be dodgy after dark
Corso Buenos Aires. Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Pretty Viale Piave. Photo: Jwslubbock, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Giardini Publicci, on the neighborhood’s eastern border. Photo: Stefano Stabile, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
You can walk to this eastern Milan neighborhood from the Duomo in about 30 minutes, or just take the M1 (red) metro line three stops from the Duomo station. If you’re traveling on foot, you’ll know you’ve arrived when you spot the neoclassical toll houses where Corso Venezia becomes Corso Buenos Aires.
One of the best ways to experience Milan is to truly “live” it, and Porta Venezia is the place to do so. (Full disclosure: I live around here, so I’m a bit biased!) Wide streets, spacious sidewalks, and some of the city’s most stunning architecture await, especially from the Milanese Liberty style, Italy’s Art Nouveau era that flourished in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This style is characterized by intricate, curved ironwork, floral motifs, ceramic inlays, sculptural objects, and grand double entrance doors.
Milan is famous for its ornate entryways (there’s even a book dedicated to them), which abound in and around Porta Venezia, but are not limited to the Liberty architectural style - you can find them all around Milan.
Corso Buenos Aires, a heaving shopping street often mentioned in guidebooks, slices through the neighborhood. While it’s mostly chain stores, the real treasures lie tucked away on side streets, especially on the southern side, where independent clothing and accessory shops abound. Head further south from Porta Venezia along Viale Piave toward the Risorgimento neighborhood, and you’ll find even more independent boutiques and lively local haunts.
Porta Venezia is also one of Milan’s best food neighborhoods. If a meal on Via Melzo - what I call Milan’s de facto restaurant row - isn’t on your itinerary, you’re missing out. But it’s not all traditional Italian fare here: you’ll find everything from Japanese to Ethiopian to Chinese cuisines. Don’t skip the Middle Eastern bakeries along the side streets north of Corso Buenos Aires. Wondering why you’d eat international food in Italy? Milan is Milan - a global city, not just Italy.
Milan is famous for a network of four house museums, and two of them are nearby: Villa Necchi Campiglio, which I always recommend as the one thing you must do in Milan (take an English-language tour so you get the most out of it), and Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano. In Corsa Venezia, the Fondazione Luigi Rovati is home to an ancient and contemporary art collection, and remains relatively overlooked compared to the main attractions.
A nook of Porta Venezia just north of Corso Buenos Aires, especially around Via Lecco, has been Milan’s historic LGBTQ+ neighborhood since the 1970s, and it remains beloved by the community today. Porta Venezia also serves as a gateway to East Milan’s colorful neighborhoods: Lambrate, Città Studi, and NoLo, all favorites among food and drink lovers.
If you enjoy being around green spaces, such as for a morning walk or run, the Giardini Pubblici, one of Milan’s oldest parks, is nearby. What I love about Porta Venezia is that it exemplifies what lies beneath Milan’s surface: the magnificence and majesty associated with its grandeur, undercut with an international flair and multiculturalism.
I mean it in the best way possible when I say that Milan can feel more like a global city than “Italy,” and Porta Venezia is an ideal base for travelers eager to immerse themselves in a neighborhood that, at its core, displays the essence of Milan.
Where to stay
Senato - Located on the edge of Porta Venezia beside the fashion district, this is a very nice four-star boutique hotel set inside a renovated 20th-century neoclassical palazzo signorile (a sort of palace). The rooms are modern and sleek and the lovely rooftop bar is exclusively for hotel guests. $350 USD per night
Hotel Cristoforo Colombo - In a lively part of the neighborhood and adjacent to the Porta Venezia metro stop, this is a very nice mid-sized hotel. Once a noble residence from the 1800s, it was completely renovated in 2023 and does a nice job of blending a bit of classical charm with modern updates. If you’re sensitive to noise, ask for a room facing the back as Corso Buenos Aires can get quite loud. $300-450 USD per night
Aparthotel Casa Mia - If you prefer apartments over hotels, then this serviced guesthouse on the border between Porta Venezia and Porta Nuova (another nice neighborhood) is a solid option. The apartments - all with kitchens - are very comfortable and have been nicely updated. It’s a pretty good deal for central Milan. $150-200 USD.
Eurhotel - This three-star hotel offers functional, no-frills accommodations. The rooms are basic but well-equipped, ideal for travelers seeking a comfortable stay without fuss or a focus on luxury or amenities. It does its job, and it’s great for travelers on a budget. $125 USD per night.
3. Duomo and Brera
Best for: First timers, short-term visitors, sightseeing, shopping
Pros: You’re in the center of it all, well-connected to the other neighborhoods
Cons: Again, you’re in the center of it all, so crowds abound, and with that, tourist traps and pickpockets, so just keep your belongings tight
Milan’s iconic Duomo and main square
Pedestrianized Via Dante, just in front of Sforza Castle. Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Via Fiori Chiari in Brera. Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A stretch of Via Montenapoleone in the Quadrilatero della Moda Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
A section of Parco Sempione with the Sforza Castle behind it. Photo: Alessandro Perazzoli, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
In Milan, it doesn’t get more central than the Duomo, the city’s iconic Gothic cathedral, and its neighboring Brera district, with its medieval origins and timeless Old World charm. This is where you’ll find the Milan of the guidebooks and glossy editorial spreads. And it doesn’t disappoint.
Expect the majestic 19th-century grandeur of Piazza del Duomo, the intricate wrought iron and glass work of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the Renaissance-era Sforza Castle, and the understated Neoclassical façade of Teatro alla Scala.
The Duomo and Galleria are always crowded - you’ll notice chicly-clad Milanesi hastily meandering their way around the slow-moving tourists and selfie-takers as they try to get to the office.
While the crowds do spill into the Brera, the pace slows down a bit. It’s less corporate hustle and more about local artisans and shops that occupy the ground floors of the low-rise 17th-,18th-, and 19th-century buildings that line its original Medieval layout–the streets aren’t so much cobbled as they are paved with uneven stone blocks that jut out (pack comfortable shoes).
The Brera has more of a close-knit community feel and is rather affluent, inhabited by fashion and design professionals, footballers, and more of a similar ilk, along with a strong showing of expats. During the day, students from the Accademia di Brera, a prestigious art school, roam the streets, and at night, expect trendy tastemakers to be out and about.
Milan is a fashion capital, so if you’re in town to shop, you’ll find something to suit every taste and budget in these two areas: from high-end boutiques and mid-range favorites to global chains and hidden outlets. For luxury labels, there’s Via Montenapoleone, one of the key streets in the designer-studded Golden Rectangle (Quadrilatero d’Oro). Meanwhile, Brera is known for its independent boutiques, galleries, and artisan shops, offering a more eclectic and creative shopping experience.
While Duomo and Brera hub is the nucleus of the city, there’s more to see beyond its confines. So if you’re staying here, don’t limit yourself. It’s well-connected by the metro, so you can easily branch out and explore other neighborhoods or reach train stations like Centrale, Garibaldi, and Cadorna if you’re planning a day trip. Both the M1 (red) and M3 (yellow) metro lines stop at Duomo.
Do know, though, that the Duomo stop is a notorious pickpocket hotspot, so I often opt to hop on at a nearby stop instead, as the central-most stations are just a short distance apart.
If you’re looking to be within the heart of Milan’s cultural and historical tapestry, this is the neighborhood to do so. It’s especially ideal for first-time visitors prioritizing the city’s most iconic sights, with unmatched convenience for exploring on foot or via metro.
While lively and bustling, the area’s unique blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication perfectly captures the city’s spirit. That said, if you’re seeking a quieter, more residential vibe or want to avoid crowds and tourist-heavy zones, this isn’t the place for you.
Where to stay
The Matilde Boutique Hotel - This 25-room family-run luxury hotel is housed in a stately 1920s building designed in the Art Nouveau Liberty style. It's a delicious mix of Old World charm with modern style that's all very chic. If you want true luxury in the city center, it's a great choice. $300-500 USD per night.
Roommate Collection Giulia - Very cool four-star hotel inside a lovely 19th-century building just steps from the famous Galleria. It's unique with colorful rooms that are quirky, stylish, and fun. You also get some nice amenities like a gym and spa. $350-500 USD per night.
The Unique Hotel Brera - Classy 4-star in the Brera. If glossy marble floors and plush green velvet couches sounds like your vibe, then you're in luck! $300-400 USD per night.
The Brunelleschi Hotel - I actually stayed at this hotel my first time in Milan. It’s not grand or particularly luxurious, but, as the neighborhood tends to be pricey, the rates here are more approachable. Plus, it’s conveniently nestled between the Duomo and Missori metro stops—just a five-minute walk from Piazza del Duomo. $200-300 USD per night.
Moscova Luxury B&B - This lovely B&B is actually in Porta Nuova, but it's just a couple blocks north of Brera and I've included it because it's very nice and a good deal. You won't get the cobblestone streets and medieval atmosphere, but you can get there in a few minutes and the comfortable and modern rooms are immaculately clean and really well maintained. $175-250 USD.
4. Navigli
Best for: Foodies, night owls, artsy types, cyclists
Pros: Teems with character, atmospheric, plenty to do, well connected to transport
Cons: It gets wild at night and can feel spring break-esque; overcrowding, especially on weekends and evenings; not ideal for early risers
Naviglio Grande. Photo: Flavmi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A lively evening in Navigli. Photo: Spens03, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Naviglio Pavese. Photo: PFAnythingGoes, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
As a food tour guide, the Navigli is the neighborhood clients inquire about the most. Admittedly, I have a love-hate relationship with this canal-laced district in southern Milan. It's undoubtedly worth seeing, but it’s not without its caveats. Not only does its reputation as a party zone precede it, but it also lives up to it. On weekend mornings, you’ll likely notice the smell of disinfectant wafting through the air. Apart from that, though, there is something undeniably alluring about the Navigli.
It’s in the southeast part of the city, within the second ring, but well connected–the Duomo is just a 20 to 30 minute walk. The Navigli is inhabited by a mix of old-timers and a younger crowd drawn by nearby universities; it’s popular among students and young adults sharing rentals, rather than families or those with ample disposable income.
The central canal, the Naviglio Grande, is lined with colorful postcard-perfect 18th- and 19th-century buildings fronted by outdoor seating. While many spots cater to American-style happy hours and two-for-one specials, there are standout cocktail bars for those who appreciate a more refined libation. As a rule of thumb, if there’s a sidewalk board advertising drink deals, you might want to keep walking. For quality canal-side sipping, head to Rita, Mag Café, or Ugo.
The Naviglio Pavese runs slightly parallel to the Naviglio Grande. It’s a little less colorful in the sense that the further southwest it drifts, the buildings become more modern (20th-century post-war), and the old-school European flair that distinguishes its counterpart starts to taper off.
Similarly, the Navigli’s outer streets mix the pre-war with the post-war, with the latter becoming more predominant the further south you go. The paved narrow lanes are crammed with parked cars, but if you decide to walk around, you'll happen upon artist studios and the occasional designer sample sale.
The neighborhood also leans into its artsy, boho spirit. It's fun to explore the galleries, vintage shops, and indie boutiques, especially during the sprawling antiques market held on the last Sunday of each month. If you’re into cycling, a 20-kilometer bike path begins at the Darsena, the former port transformed into an urban waterfront market of sorts, and winds along the canal to reach the town of Abbiategrasso.
Dining can be hit-or-miss along the canal itself, but dig a little deeper into the side streets and you’ll find excellent restaurants, wine bars, and cocktail spots.
There’s no denying the Navigli is lively, atmospheric, and full of character—a must-visit neighborhood. If you want to delve into Milan’s vibrant social scene and nightlife, the Navigli’s energy is unmatched. In that case, it’s an ideal base, especially since finding a taxi at night can be notoriously daunting.
That said, the later it gets, the rowdier it becomes. If you’re sensitive to noise or prefer to stay somewhere quieter, the Navigli isn’t for you. If you’re traveling with kids or are an early riser, then this is probably not the best neighborhood for you. I also wouldn’t recommend it for couples celebrating special occasions—by nightfall, the district loses much of its romance. And if you're visiting in warm weather, make sure to have mosquito repellent on hand.
Where to stay
Vico Milano – This seven-room four-star boutique hotel is nestled into a garden off Corso Genova just north of the Navigli. It’s close enough to the action to stay connected, yet tucked away just enough to enjoy quieter evenings. It spans two floors of a 19th-century bicycle factory turned fashion showroom turned hotel, and there’s no elevator. $300-500 USD per night
Aethos Hotel – If you're a heavy sleeper and don’t mind the noise, the 32-room four-star Aethos Hotel has it all, including a cocktail lounge called the Doping Bar. It also provides bicycle rentals for anyone who wants to explore the quarter and beyond on two wheels. $350 USD per night
Maison Borella – This boutique four-star hotel embodies Navigli's old-school charm, set inside a 19th-century “casa di ringhiera” building, a style noted by long communal balconies that serve as walkways to the apartment entrances. It’s right on the Naviglio Grande, so request a courtyard-facing room at the time of booking if you’re sensitive to noise. $200-300 USD per night
21 House of Stories – This four-star multi-concept hotel perfectly captures the social and creative spirit of the Navigli. With 104 rooms across four distinct styles, plus a restaurant, a two-level rooftop cocktail bar, a bistrot, and co-working spaces, it’s designed to bring people together, whether for working, relaxing, or partying. $150-225 USD per night
5. Isola
Best for: Social travelers, repeat visitors, foodies, anyone seeking a local feel
Pros: Trendy and vibrant street life, less congested, well-connected by public transport, and packed with excellent restaurants and cocktail bars
Cons: Not as central, so it takes some time to get to the main sights
Mercato Isola in Isola. Photo: Saggittarius A, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazzale Lagosta. Photo: Jwslubbock, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Biblioteca degli Alberi park. Photo: Hornet 117, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Isola district is often coined “up and coming,” but that description felt more accurate when I first moved to Milan over a decade ago. It’s located north of the city center within the second concentric ring, and you can reach major sights quickly by metro or even on foot if you don’t mind strolling–it’s about a half-hour walk to the Brera.
Isola means “island,” and is so-called because back in the day, it was once physically cut off from the city proper, separated by a now-drained canal. Originally a working-class enclave where residents commuted into the city by train, Isola today is one of Milan’s most dynamic districts, populated by a melting pot of long-time locals, young professionals, creative types, and families. Yet, it is still relatively under the radar for most visitors.
If you’re the type of traveller who is less concerned with sightseeing and more about absorbing atmosphere, Isola is perfect. Equal parts gritty and sleek, the neighborhood offers a window into everyday Milanese life, capturing the city’s signature contrast between old and new. Juxtaposing well-worn 19th-century facades with towering modern, glossy structures, it's lovely to wander and admire.
But architecture is just part of Isola’s draw. The neighborhood bursts with vibrant street art from local artists, and it’s dotted with independent boutiques, lively restaurants, laid-back cocktail bars, and the recently opened Mercato Isola food market, all rooted in a strong sense of community.
Most people are surprised to discover how Milan is more green than gray, and Isola is living proof. A major draw is the Bosco Verticale (Vertical Forest), two residential towers covered in greenery - a contemporary architectural icon and a testament to Milan’s green ambitions.
The neighborhood is home to Biblioteca degli Alberi (Library of Trees), a sprawling nine-acre park inaugurated in 2018. Beyond offering a break from the bustle, it hosts cultural events, fitness classes, and creative workshops, while remaining equally suited for a picnic or some quality downtime.
Well-connected by public transport, Isola is situated beside the Garibaldi train station, providing easy access to both the M2 (green) and M5 (lilac) metro lines. For day-trippers headed to Lake Como, direct trains to Como’s San Giovanni station depart from here, and the Malpensa Express airport route also passes through the station.
Isola is another neighborhood I adore. I find it offers the side of Milan that most guidebooks overlook. As it doesn’t cater to tourists, Isola manages to feel both urban and residential, peaceful but never dull. The streets are relatively quiet, except for a couple of traffic arteries.
During the warm weather months, outdoor seating is a way of life, particularly along the leafy Via Borsieri, where you can sip an aperitivo al fresco.
It’s ideal for travelers who crave a lived-in Milanese vibe away from the tourist crowds and are willing to trade a bit of central convenience for an atmosphere that feels more neighborly. But if you prefer being in the thick of things or staying within easy reach of the city’s main attractions, Isola might feel a little too removed or out of the way.
Where to stay
Crowne Plaza Milan City - Set on Isola’s northern fringe, this four-star hotel isn’t in the thick of the action, but it's good value and you get nice amenities like a rooftop pool and bar complete with sweeping city views. $200-300 USD per night
Aiello Hotels-Isola Design District - Nice 3-star option with trendy minimalist decor that is stylish, but not fussy. It’s centrally located, close to the metro, and the rooms are well soundproofed. $200 USD per night
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