A Local’s One Week French Riviera Itinerary
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For many foreigners, and for most French people, the very word Provence conjures up an imaginary world in which a gentle way of life, games of petanque, the sea, the cicadas, and of course, the omnipresent sun all gloriously coexist.
And if you also mention the Riviera, an even clearer picture emerges: the tourism of yesterday's elite and that of today's upper-middle classes, the Var coastline, Cannes and its festival, Grasse and its perfumes, the Baie des Anges, the ramparts of Antibes, elegant Nice, and of course Monaco, the second most famous city-state in the world (after the Vatican).
Other French people are sometimes a little jealous of those of us from here, and it’s easy to understand why! In addition to beautiful cities, fabulous beaches, and a near perfect sea, the many foreigners who visit, live, and study here (almost as many as in Paris) give us a richness and diversity that makes the Riviera one of the most cosmopolitan places in France.
But of course, as is often the case when a place is very famous, the image people have of my region is both justified and incomplete; flattering, but not always in line with reality.
And some of the Riviera's best known appeals actually obscure other things that also make the region special. The fame of our coastline overshadows the draw of the mountains (and their great winter sports resorts). The glamour of the Cannes Film Festival outshines the natural beauty of the Lérins landscapes. The Nice Carnival (which people come all the way from China to see!) eclipses the rich historical heritage of a city that was a military stronghold for centuries.
I suppose what I'm trying to say is that, away from the glitzy resorts and the chic parties, a whole different Riviera awaits. It takes some time to discover it, but for those who do, the rewards are immense. Yes, visit our beaches, meander through our beautiful cities, and dance the night away by the sea, but don't only do that.
I won't claim to be able to show you the “other side” of the Riviera in just one week. Nor would you want to spend your entire first trip going off the beaten path. However, I do believe I can give you a few essential keys that will enable you to discover some places that will surprise you (and delight you) and offer a window into a very different side of this region. In these places, you'll encounter an unsuspected authenticity that many travelers miss out on when visiting here.
Read on for my recommendations on how to spend one fabulous week in my home, the French Riviera!
Table of Contents
Things to know when planning your trip
Before we get into the itinerary, I want to cover a few common questions/topics that will help as you put together your plan. I've tried to be comprehensive while keeping things short.
For a more detailed guide to travel in the region, have a look at our French Riviera travel guide.
Is a week enough time?
I think a week-long visit to the Riviera provides the perfect introduction to the region. 7 days here gives you enough time to traverse the coast from east to west (or in reverse), visiting all of the region’s principal cities and towns and also getting out into the countryside to see the spectacular scenery and charming little villages.
While you could probably dash madly through in less time (especially if you have a car), that wouldn’t be doing the Riviera justice, as this is far more than just a beach destination.
There are tons of old towns here with interesting history and architecture, an almost obscene number of great beaches, a few big cities where you can get a taste of our cosmopolitan culture, a truly impressive array of artists, artisans, and local producers, lots of old palaces and ornate gardens, and a gorgeous countryside filled with lovely scenery and bucolic little villages that will transport you back in time.
If you want the luxury of exploring everything I’ve mentioned above, I really recommend at least a week here, during which you could spend your days doing a nice mix of urban exploring, outdoor activities, beach lounging, and historical/cultural visits.
Best time to visit
With an average of over 300 sunny days per year and a climate that never gets any colder than “chilly”, there really isn’t a bad time to visit the Riviera. That doesn’t mean some periods aren’t nicer than others, though.
For the average visitor, late spring or early fall are the two best times for a visit.
Both periods offer pleasantly warm but not overwhelmingly hot daytime temperatures, fewer crowds, and the sea will be warm enough for swimming from June all the way through October.
Summer
Summer, of course, also offers great beach weather, but it comes with overwhelming heat in the middle of the day that makes doing basically anything unpleasant. As it's high season, crowds are significant everywhere you go and prices for everything are at their highest.
Fall
The fall, particular the early part of the season, offers many of the benefits of summer, but with more moderate temperatures, fewer crowds, and reduced prices. By the middle of September, most vacationers will have returned home, so you’ll get a much more local experience.
This is a great period for exploring the cities, hiking in the countryside, and yes, hitting the beach. Just be aware that as the season progresses, the chances of rain increase, with October in particular seeing short-lived but intense downpours and thunderstorms.
Winter
Winter would not be most people’s choice for a visit to the south of France, but as long as you know what to expect, it can actually be a nice time to be here. It does start to get chilly, but it’s rarely downright cold, and the fall rains have fully passed, meaning that you’ll have many bright, sunny days.
Also, as the Riviera lies at the base of the Alps, you can do some surprisingly excellent skiing and winter sports just by heading a short drive up into the mountains.
Yes, many tourism-focused businesses will be closed and you won’t find some many open terraces or patios, but the cities will still be lively, the crowds will be nonexistent, and prices will be low.
Spring
Spring is an excellent time for a visit, especially later in the the season when the temperatures have started to warm up and the periodic spring rains have ended. The countryside will be in full bloom, so it’s a lovely time of year to get out into nature.
And tourism doesn’t really get going here until around the middle of June, so this is a nice period to see local life picking back up after the quiet of winter.
Just be aware that in early and mid-spring, you will not really have conditions for swimming.
How to get around
In terms of travel, the Riviera has one defining characteristic: its shape, which is entirely linear. The coast stretches from east to west for a little over 150 kms - larger than most people realize.
This linear shape is a bit of a disadvantage because even if you choose a location in the center of the coast, you'll inevitably wind up repeating your route as you make day trips. On the flip side, the positive is that it's very hard to get lost, and your route is always obvious!
Once here, your options for transport are train, bus, and car, each of which work very well.
If you're coming on a short trip, are focusing just on the coastal highlights, and/or plan to spend a lot of time beach lounging, you'll probably find that the train will get you everywhere you want to go. If you want to get off the coast and into the hills, you'd do well to rent a car.
By train
The entire Riviera is very well served by train, and has been since the 19th century, when the arrival of the railway transformed this peaceful little region into a world-renowned holiday destination.
The train is called the TER (Express Regional Train) and in high season it is generally a much better option than buses as you won’t get stuck in heavy traffic.
Train service is operated by the French national rail service, Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français (SNCF). You can purchase tickets directly on their website or in-person at any train station.
By bus
Even in places where the train doesn't run (inland), there are bus routes that make most any city or town that you’d be interested in visiting accessible by some combination of train and bus. A couple of different companies operate bus routes, but the main two are Lignes d’Azur and Zou.
Bus tickets can be purchased at bus stations, ticket kiosks/vending machines, directly aboard the bus, and on the Lignes d’Azur mobile app. Single use tickets cost 1.50 euro, but you can also buy unlimited use 1-day passes (5 euro) or an unlimited use 7-day pass (20 euro).
Remember that you must validate bus tickets.
By rental car
While you can move around the Riviera quite well using public transport, if you have limited time it's much more practical to have a car at your disposal.
Having your own set of wheels will also allow you to get out into the surrounding hills, which are quickly accessible by car and offer superb views and nature. Aside from being able to see more, you’ll be able to get away from the most crowded places too.
Nice, with its international airport, has by far the widest selction of rental car agencies, but you’ll also find offices in Cannes, Antibes, Saint-Tropez (though very few), Sainte Maxime (also very few), and a few other towns.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
Itinerary overview
Traveling from the east of the Riviera to its western edge, this itinerary will take you through some of this area’s most famous places. You'll visit Nice, Monaco, and Cannes while also sprinkling in visits to lesser-known gems where you can fully experience the famous atmosphere and relaxed pace of life of the Cote d’Azur.
While the plan I’ve put together for you is very much doable in any season, I’ve assumed that you’ll be visiting during the warmer months of the year, and have included ample opportunity for beach visits, water sports, and lounging in the sun (that’s a big part of the allure of being here, after all!).
No visit here would be complete without exploring our architecture, culture, and history, so you’ll also find many recommendations for museums and historical sites, both well-known and more off-the-beaten-path.
For this particular itinerary, I've decided to take you on a journey in the direction that I'm most familiar with: from east to west.
Here’s a quick look at the plan:
Day 1 - Nice
Start off in Nice, the biggest city in the Riviera and the place that you’re undoubtedly going to fly into anyways!
Day 2 - Monaco
From there, head on to Monaco for a taste of luxury, glamour, and nightlife.
Day 3 - Antibes
Continue your journey with a visit to the charming little town of Antibes, which offers a totally different perspective on the region from busy Nice and luxurious Monaco.
Day 4 - Grasse and Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Today, head into the hills away from the coast and check out the charming villages of Grasse and and Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
Day 5 - Cannes and the Lérins islands
Return to the coast to visit Cannes, famous for its international film festival and “high society” lifestyle. From the city, spend half the day visiting the wonderful Lérins islands just off its shore.
Day 6 - Fréjus and Saint-Tropez
Make your way further west to Fréjus and Saint-Tropez, two smaller towns that perfectly straddle the line between authentic local life and upscale tourism.
Day 7 - Hyères and its Golden Isles
On your final day in the Riviera, wrap up your time here by enjoying island life off the coast of Hyères.
Day 1 - Discovering Nice
The inhabitants of Nice like to say that they live in a village, not a town or city, and this is with good reason: nestled between the sea and the foothills of the Alps, Nice occupies a tiny little space within which it sometimes feels as if everyone knows each other. That's a good thing, because it's easy to meet new people and make new friends.
Nice and its Promenade des Anglais waterfront
Morning - Explore Vieux Nice (the old town)
If you get up early enough, make the most of the early morning calm by watching the sun rise from Nice’s famous Promenade des Anglais and, more specifically, from Rauba Capeu, the little cape at the foot of the Colline du Château hill. From here, you can enjoy an exceptional panoramic view of the sea, stretching as far as Cap d'Antibes.
After sunrise, it's time to head to Vieux Nice (the old town), which comes alive in the morning sunshine. This is the section of the city that sits in front of the sea, squished between the port and the famous Promenade du Paillon.
Cours Saleya Market
The Cours Saleya market is the heart of the old town and every day except Monday you can do your shopping here, whether it's for handicrafts, art, fruit and vegetables, or flowers.
Pro tip: flowers are a big thing on the Riviera, and they're everywhere, so you should always be on the lookout for them.
If you haven't eaten yet, enjoy breakfast or brunch in the old town. I suggest you explore the streets to find your ideal spot, but be wary of the restaurants on the Cours Saleya, which are too touristy. Instead, lose yourself around the courthouse and the cathedral and get breakfast there.
Promenade du Paillon and Place Massena
While here, you're sure to encounter the Promenade du Paillon and Place Massena. This promenade and square separate old Nice from "new” nice and feature in most photos you'll have seen of the city (with their checkerboard black and white sidewalks). The Fontaine du Soleil fountain in Place Massena is particularly picturesque. I'd recommend grabbing a coffee and doing some people watching.
Colline du Château
Then, head for the Colline du Château, the high hill on the edge of the old town that overlooks the city and the Promenade des Anglais waterfront. It's accessible via a number of roads and staircases. On the top, you'll see a clearly designated area where the Château that topped this hill once was (it no longer exists). Enjoy the view over Nice from here and the peace and quiet of the place. And the waterfall, too!
An ice cream and lunch
Once back down from the hill, it'll certainly almost be lunch time, but first… how about an ice cream?
There are good shops that you'll find just about everywhere, but my favorite is at Azzurro, which makes its own ice cream and cones and is priced quite reasonably.
For lunch, you should know that while finding somewhere to eat in Nice is always easy, finding restaurants that serve authentic Niçois cuisine is much more complicated. My best advice is to choose a family-run establishment with a bistro atmosphere and to just follow your instincts.
I have a personal affection for Lou Balico, located near the museum of contemporary art, and it’s always my top choice. Another excellent choise is Lu Fran Calin in the center of the old town.
The stalls in the Cours Saleya market. Photo: Zairon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Fontaine du Soleil fountain in Place Massena
The view from Colline du Château. Photo: Choinowski, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon - Cimiez Hill for a little history and art
After lunch, it's time to get off the beaten track and head for a different part of the city for another great view and a look into Nice's ancient history and perhaps a little bit of art!
Cimiez Hill and park
2,000 years ago, the hill of Cimiez was the site of the Roman city of Cemenelum, the ancestor to our modern city. Today, it’s one of the most exclusive residential areas in town, but it remains, to an extent, the city's true soul. Aside from offering a prileveged view over town, it also houses Roman ruins and a good archaeological museum. It's a 10-minute bus ride to get here from the old town.
Along your way to the hill you'll pass by the old Hotel Regina, a hotel decorated with a huge crown to commemorate Queen Victoria's stay there in the 19th century.
Roman Arena and archaeology museum
On your way up the hill, the ancient Roman arena (known in French as the Jardin des Arènes de Cimiez) is a mandatory stop and free to visit. Little pro tip - if you're here in May, this is where's Nice's Jazz festival is held. If you have a car, you can leave it at the parking lot on Avenue du Monastère, right nearby.
After a wander in the arena and the surrounding park, cross over to the archaeology museum to discover the remains of the city's past, which are superbly showcased by the museum's exceptional team and its cultural curator, whose name is...Romain. You can't make that up!
Matisse and Chagall Museums
If you're more interested in more recent art, you're also at the doorstep of the Matisse Museum. This great artist spent part of his life in Nice, and excellent works are displayed here. The museum is very much worth visiting.
From here, you can move on to the Chagall Museum, which is on your way back down the hill returning toward the city center.
These are small museums, so they don't require a ton of time to visit and you won't find yourself overwhelmed by all the art.
Whatever you do, head back down into central Nice when you've had your fill.
The remains of Nice's Roman Arena. Photo: Édouard Hue (User:EdouardHue), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Nice and Colline du Chateau seen from atop Cimiez hill. Photo: Esby, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening - Dinner and drinks
Having returned to the center of town, it's time for a drink. The old town is an obvious place to go as there are countless pubs, lounges, and cocktail bars. The port, which has been fairly extensively renovated recently, is currently the trendiest spot.
Rue Bonaparte
If you want to see a new part of Nice instead of the old town, yu camn head to rue Bonaparte behind the port. This area is pleasant and renowned for its friendly and busy atmosphere.
And if you're feeling peckish before dinner, try Pipo's, which is in the same district. They have a reputation for preparing excellent socca, a typical Nice chickpea pancake.
Liberation neighborhood
Beer lovers (myself included) cannot miss a visit to Beer District in the Libération neighborhood. It's a bar that serves excellent beers and fries at very reasonable prices, all with a great festive atmosphere.
For dinner, it's typically best to concentrate on the city center. However, if you chose to visit Beer District, you should absolutely take note of this totally astonishing restaurant: La Route du Miam. This a tiny place run by a couple, where you can enjoy half a duck (!) served with foie gras and potatoes fried in...foie gras. But be warned: if you want a table, you'll need to book well in advance or be very lucky.
Overnight in Nice
For the best location, you should look at the area between the train station and the coastline, mostly around Avenue Jean Médecin. The Riquier district (behind the port) is a particularly good place to stay, thanks to its proximity to the old Palais des Congrès.
Here are some hotels I can recommend:
Hotel Le Negresco - Certainly one of the most iconic properties on the Riviera, and probably all of France. $800 USD
Palais de la Méditerranée - Modern rooms that are refined and elegant on the waterfront. $450 USD
Le Grimaldi - Colorful, eclectic, and pure Belle Epoque style in the heart of town. $250 USD
Hotel Nice Excelsior - Nice mid-range option that is walking distance from the train station and the old town. $200 USD
EasyHotel Centre des Congrès - Budget “apart-hotel” where rooms all have little kitchens. $100 USD
Day 2 - Monaco
Here again we have an incredibly famous place that is really essentially unknown. Monaco is a very surprising microcosm - in just 2 square kilometers you have an ancient fortress, modern buildings, a casino, tennis courts, an ice rink, a football stadium, a zoo, a botanical garden, 40,000 inhabitants, a prince and his family, and, of course, a Formula 1 Grand Prix.
And we still haven’t covered everything. How do they do it? Monaco is an inimitable place.
Monaco's harbor
Morning - Monaco's old town
From Nice, if you're travelling to Monaco by road, you should make a quick stop (about an hour) to visit the old village of Eze, which sits perched on a rocky peak. And in all cases, never take the highway! Always travel along the Grande Corniche road, from which the views are magnificent.
If you're taking the train, the route to Monaco is direct, taking about 30 minutes.
Rocher du Monaco (the old town)
Once you reach Monaco, head straight to the Rocher du Monaco, the famous "Rock of Monaco", a huge rocky outcrop that is home to Monaco-Ville, the city's oldest neighborhood. The Prince's Palace sits here at the top. Beware, the Rock lives up to its name and is a good climb! You can get to the top by bus, but the old access route along the ramparts is much nicer. It's well worth the effort of a short walk, and it takes you straight to the Palace.
If you're in this part of town around noon, know that the changing of the guards happens every day at 11:55 am.
Enjoy a wander through the neighborhood and take note of the architecture around you; while most of Monaco is a very modern (and glitzy) city, the Rocher is quite historic. This is a small area - just a handful of streets - so it won't take you long to walk around.
Oceanographic Museum
After your wander and some time to admire the Prince's Palace palace and its guards, head straight to the wonderful Oceanographic Museum.
This astonishing museum, housed in a huge historic building that plunges into the sea, was built as a tribute to Monaco's Prince Albert the 1st, nicknamed "the Prince Navigoator", who from 1889 to 1922 travelled the world and led numerous scientific expeditions. It's an unusual place to visit - a museum, a palace, a cabinet of curiosities, and an aquarium. If nature, the sea, and the world interest you even a little, don't miss it.
Lunch and a wander in the Condamine district
After your visit, I suggest you have lunch in the Condamine district behind the port (and just below Le Rocher).
This is a very pleasant pedestrianized area where you'll find lots of brasseries offering lunchtime specials. Monegasques (as local residents are called) like to enjoy their lunch break here, so the prices are often reasonable and the crowds are quite local.
Condamine is a lovely neighborhood full of pretty streets, so I suggest you spend some time wandering around and browsing at the many shops and boutiques.
The Rocher du Monaco rock on the left
The Prince's Palace
Afternoon - The Prince's Car Collection and Monte Carlo neighborhood
After lunch, it's time to move away from the historic part of Monaco and venture into its contemporary neighborhoods.
The Prince's Car Collection
In "new” Monaco, I recommend starting with the Car Collection of H.S.H. the Prince of Monaco (Rainier III, father of the current prince). And yes, you read that right: it's not a museum, but rather a personal collection of over 100 cars.
Aside from the fact that the cars are simply wonderful, this is also a good starting point for understanding one of the most important aspects of Monaco: it's a city of extreme income disparity, where the poor, working class, and middle class rub shoulders with the wealthiest of world's elites.
The port
From the car collection, head to the port. Here, you can admire the (absurdly big) yachts and get a close up view of some of Monaco's vast wealth. The port is always bustling, so it's very nice for some people watching.
Casino de Monte-Carlo
Once you've finished enjoying the boats, set off on another climb, this time up the Avenue d'Ostende. The street will take you right past one of this city-state’s most central places: the famous Casino de Monte-Carlo.
Naturally, you may be tempted to go to the casino. Enjoy it if you like, but know a curiosity - citizens of Monaco are neither allowed to gamble nor work at the casino.
Monte Carlo neighborhood and Monaco's gardens
This part of Monaco is, as the casino name suggests, the neighborhood of Monte Carlo.
Here, luxury cars meet the most humble of scooters, revelers in dinner jackets and evening dresses meet people in the most casual of outfits, and designer stores line the streets. Here you are at the heart of the Monegasque atmosphere.
Not to be missed are the lovely trio of garden that line the opposite side of the street from the casino. Stroll between the Casino Garden, the Japanese Garden, and the Jardins de la Petite Afrique. As night falls, the area lights up and comes alive.
Yachts in the marina
Formula 1 racecars on display at the Prince's collection. Photo: Andromeda2064, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Looking at Monaco from the Casino entrance
A section of the Japanese Garden
Monte Carlo Casino
Evening - Dinner by the port
For drinks and dinner, you might be tempted to head back to the port. I think that's a good idea. Here, you'll find both the city's most chic establishments as well as perfectly normal ones. Refined cocktails or generic beer, gourmet dishes or burgers - it's all available here.
Finally, if you opt to sepnd the night in the city and want to go out dancing, you'll find the best clubs near the casino (the Buddha-Bar is the most well-known among the French) or a little further along, towards Larvotto beach.
If you won't be spending the night, it's time to hop back in your car (or back on the train) and return to Nice.
Overnight in Nice
For hotel suggestions, see my recommendations from Day 1.
Day 3 - Antibes
After two very urban days, it's time to start discovering a little-known yet essential aspect of the Riviera: the permanent communion between the city and nature. For this, we head to coastal Antibes.
This former French border town (before 1860 Nice was not part of France and Antibes formed the border with Italy) is the perfect example of the region's contrasts. An old fortified town where once again, everyone seems to know everyone else, Antibes is also an embodiment of the touristic history of the Riviera.
Its Juan-les-Pins district, where trendy bars and nightclubs flourish around the casino (yes, another one), is an absolute tourist hotspot.
Perhaps more than anywhere else on the Riviera, Antibes combines the Provencal way of life with the dynamism of a seaside resort.
Morning - Wander Antibes
Getting to Antibes from Nice is a total breeze. The train is really the easiest (and quickest) option, but you can also drive. Trains depart every 10-15 minutes and the ride takes just 20 minutes. By car, it's a 40-minute drive.
This morning you'll be doing a lot of walking around town, so bring a good pair of shoes. If you think that a swim is in order, be sure to pack a bathing suit.
Provencal market
As you arrive in town, I suggest that you stop off at the Provencal market on the Cours Masséna. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, it's smaller than the one in Nice, but more authentic and more varied.
A "hike” around Cap d’Antibes (and perhaps a swim?)
After a stop at the market, start your visit with the quintessential Antibes walk, the one that runs from Antibes’ old town along Cap d’Antibes (Cape Antibes) and out to Juan-les-Pins on the other side. Every local has done this walk at least once, so every tourist should do! It's a wonderful experience and you’ll meander down small paths while enjoying magnificent views, little coves, and big mansions.
If you're up for a very long walk, you have the option of a 10 km path that leads from the town center all the way to Juan-les-Pins. The first and last parts of this path are on a sidewalk along a quiet stretch of road. The middle section, known as both "chemin des contrebandiers" (smugglers' path) and “Sentier du Littoral” is a 5 km patch of coastal walking trails that begins at Plage de la Garoupe and finishes in the Baie des Milliardaires (Billionaire's bay). The smaller section is basically this path that you'll on AllTrails.
The section of the path on the tip of Cap d’Antibes (beginning at Plage de la Garoupe) is the most scenic and it offers breathtaking views all the way out to Cannes across the bay. It's a almost wild and marvelous little area and the path really does feel hidden.
If you do the longer walk, be prepared with snacks and lots of water. You'll pass by plenty of places to potentially stop at, but you should have some supplies with you. You'll need to dedicate the entire morning to do the whole route. You'll also pass some lovely beaches, so may find yourself stopping for a swim.
For those on the longer route, do make a small detour to Phare de la Garoupe lighthouse, whose panorama is totally unique. Visit its chapel, decorated with dozens of superb ex-votos from fishermen of days gone by, grateful to have escaped a storm or shipwreck. I think this scene helps you to imagine what life was like here before the arrival of tourism.
Lunch in Juan-les-Pins
After all your exercise, it's time for a well-deserved lunch. From the Boulevardn du Cap street or the lighthouse, you can walk along the seafront to Juan-les-Pins, or back to Antibes. Regardless of where you choose to go, you'll find plenty of places to eat along the walk, including good-quality bistros at very reasonable prices.
Personally, I'd opt for lumch in Juan-les-Pins. Here, I have three favorite places to recommend: for an ice cream, Gelatita with its 100% home-made products is an absolute must. For lunch, try either Le Congrès or Provence Café. Located side by side between two pine gardens, these two restaurants are as welcoming as they are different.
Le Congrès is a small Vietnamese restaurant run by a Vietnamese family who prepare everything themselves (not very "local” dishes, but excellent nonetheless).
Provence Cafe offers a variety of typical dishes with regular daily specials (more local and always pleasant).
Or, if you choose to make your way back to old Antibes, let yourself be tempted by whatever strikes your fancy. You’ll find chic restaurants, burger bars, Breton crêperies, etc.
A section of the Sentier du Littoral path. Photo: Indigo&fushia, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
A section of the Sentier du Littoral
Plage du Ponteil beach
The waterfront in Juan-les-Pins. Photo: Txllxt TxllxT, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon - Old Antibes, Picasso Museum, and Fort Carré
Antibes town center
After lunch, enjoy an hour or two in Antibes’ lovely town center. Wander the narrow streets and the city ramparts for as long as you like and then prepare for a more relaxed afternoon.
Picasso Museum
Right in the old town is the excellent Musée Picasso, housed in the Château Grimaldi, a superb building in front of the sea whose oldest parts are almost two thousand years old and which overlooks the town and the Baie des Anges.
It was here that the Spanish artist set up his studio in 1946, before moving to Vallauris (a village very close to Antibes) until 1955. As a result, the museum boasts a unique collection that is very well displayed. You won't see any of Picasso's most famous or most impressive pieces, but it's a very personal collection. Exhibits also show the work of other artists.
Entrance costs 12 euro for adults, but is free for children under 18. I'd expect to spend about an hour in the museum.
Archaeological museum
If you visit the Picasso Museum quickly, or if twentieth-century art leaves something to be desired for you, the Musée d'Archéologie is another pleasant visit.
Antibes was known as Antipolis 2,000 years ago, when it was a Greek colony, and the shipwrecks discovered off the coast of the town, parts of which are now on display here, bear witness to this fact.
Entrance for adults costs just 3 euro, and the museum can be visited in as little as a half hour if you just want to pop in.
Fort Carré
Finish your afternoon of discovery with a majestic visit to the Fort Carré which is across the marina/harbor from Antibes’ center.
From the 16th to the 19th century, this fort stood sentinely on what was then France's easternmost coast. It is also famous for having played host to General Napoleon Bonaparte, who was imprisoned for a fortnight in 1794 during some of the revolutionary unrest.
The fort can only be visited in groups with a guide, so make the most of it, and let their excellent team of English-speaking enthusiasts explain to you what military life was like at the time. Finally, the view is absolutely breathtaking.
Please note, the site closes at 5pm.
Relax on Antibes' good beaches
If you've read through the above and find yourself thinking “That all sounds nice enough, but what about the beach?!", then fret not! Antibes’ beaches are very nice and you have plenty to choose from.
You could easily walk the coastal trail in the morning, grab lunch in Juan-les-Pins, and then enjoy an afternoon lounging on the beach.
For city beaches, you have many, but here are a few easily accesible ones:
Plage des Ondes (a personal favorite)
If want to enjoy a bit of seclusion and don't mind rockier beaches, then I'd recommend looking along the Sentier du Littoral. This is a section of the Cap d’Antibes walk I mentioned before.
Antibe's old town
The Picasso Museum. Photo: Clemensfranz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Fort Carre seen from across the harbor. Photo: Linette02, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening - Aperitif and dinner
As dusk approaches, walk from the Fort along the harbor back to Antibes’ center.
Now, partake in an Antibes tradition and head for an aperitif on the boulevard d'Aguillon, a pedestrianised street just behind the ramparts that is full of bars and restaurants of all kinds.
Or, for a more seaside atmosphere, head back to Juan-les-Pins, where one beach bar after another affords views of the sun disappearing behind the Estérel massif. Enjoy the sights while sipping a drink with your feet in the sand. In Juan-les-Pins, I'm partial to the Ruban Bleu beach bar as the atmosphere is very pleasant and the location is unbeatable. Stick to drinks, the food is not great.
For dinner, you're spoiled for choice. I'd recommend dining in Antibes’ old town. For warm Mediterranean cuisine in a family atmosphere, I dare to suggest L'Écureuil Espagnol - Casa Amando. The owner (Amando) prepares an amazing paella. This is a popular spot, so book ahead.
Overnight in Nice or Antibes
Day 4 - Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Grasse
It's time to begin climbing a bit above sea level and to make your way into the foothills of the surrounding Alps. For this, I recommend that you visit the villages of Grasse and Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
The walled town of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Photo: Jpchevreau, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning - Saint-Paul-de-Vence
From Nice or Antibes, you are about 30 minutes away from Saint-Paul-de-Vence by car. If using public transport, from either city you'll need to take a train and then switch to a bus, with the journey taking about 1-hour. Getting from SPdV to Grasse will then involve another bus to train journey.
I'd highly recommend having a car for this day.
Explore Saint Paul de Vence
Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a feast for all five senses. On arrival, take advantage of the free car parks at the entrance to town so that you can get lost in the medieval streets and browse the lovely art galleries on foot. The town's strong ties to art are a distinctive feature of the village, so exploring the galleries and admiring the artwork is highly recommended.
Maeght Foundation
If you're interested in contemporary art, spend an hour or two visiting the Maeght Foundation, where works by Braque, Calder, Chagall, Giacometti and Miró live side by side in and around a magnificent villa.
If you visit the museum (which you absolutely should), you will certainly spend the entire morning here.
A typical stone staircase in Saint-Paul-de-Vence
A path inside the Maeght Foundation. Photo: Waterborough, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon - Grasse
To get to Grasse by car, take the scenic D7 or D2210 roads, both of which are worth the effort (around forty minutes driving) and offer some very beautiful scenery.
Lunch
For lunch, I recommend Grasse over Saint-Paul-de-Vence because it's larger and less touristy, so offers a wider choice of restaurants and bistros.
For lunch in Grasse, head below the Route Napoléon, which is one of the town's main thoroughfares (it actually extends as far as Grenoble, but that's another story). Here, you’ll find small Provençal restaurants like Lou Pignatoun and La Cigale, alongside a wide variety of other eateries.
One of the Riviera's great strengths is that it is not just a tourist destination - it remains an area with a strong local life that is still reminiscent of traditional villages. This means that no matter where you are, it’s never hard to find authentic, inexpensive places to eat.
While there are tons of tourist traps, with a little work and planning, they can be very easily avoided.
Musée International de la Parfumerie
Every Frenchman knows that Grasse has been the city of perfume for centuries. So, once you've enjoyed its timeless atmosphere, head to the Musée International de la Parfumerie to learn more about this. Here, you'll discover the history of perfume, the history of Grasse, and some very surprising manufacturing processes.
You’ll also see dozens of old objects that have long since disappeared, such as the tube-shaped perfume bottles that horsemen used to slip into their boots so that they could be used at any time.
Fragonard museum
And while we're on the subject of the ancient art of living: continue with the Fragonard museum. This former perfume factory belonged to the descendants of Jean Honoré Fragonard, the most illustrious of the painters who depicted the "douceur de vivre" (sweetness of living) of the 18th century.
Between olfactory discoveries and exhibitions of works by the master, you'll travel three centuries back in time.
Take a stroll
Finally, take a stroll around the city and enjoy the view. It should be evening by this point, just about when the sun begins to set over the Mediterranean. Grasse is small, so I don't think it necessary to tell you a route to wander; just go wherever the light takes you!
Hilltop Grasse. Photo: Lylambda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Grasse
Grasse
Evening - Dinner with a view in Grasse
In the evening, the terraces of many restaurants in Grasse are lit up with lanterns and offer you the chance to dine with a view over the sea and the Baie des Anges.
Evenings in Grasse are synonymous with contemplation, and from this height, you'll see the Riviera in a whole new light. As night falls, the shoreline of the Bay lights up, the villages become islands of light in the landscape, and the moon is reflected on the Mediterranean. If you’re looking for a romantic evening, this is it.
So take a stroll, have a drink, and enjoy a meal in the French style; leisurely. If you didn’t make it everywhere during the day, you can also enjoy one of the nighttime tours that the perfume shops sometimes offer. Even in summer high season, Grasse remains a town where you can enjoy a certain serenity.
Overnight in Antibes, Nice, or Grasse
For tonight, it's really all a question of how frequently you want to pack and unpack your bags. To minimize packing, I normally recommend spending 2 nights in Antibes (after 2 nights in Nice), but you could also do 3 nights in Nice to start with and then stay in Grasse for tonight and your next night.
Day 5 - Cannes & the Lérins islands
Today, you’ll explore France's most chic city along the Riviera. Cannes is of course much more than its festival. First and foremost, it is the epitome of the Belle Époque and the incredible palaces of the Carlton, Majestic, Martinez and Splendid are impressive reminders of this. The many luxury boutiques are yet another reminder.
Cannes and its marina
Morning - Trip to the Lérins islands from Cannes
From Antibes, Cannes is a 20-30 minutes drive, but only 10-15 by train. From Nice, expect for it to take around 40 minutes by either means of transport. If you stayed in Grasse, it's just 20 mintues by either car or bus.
Here, the most surprising discovery you can make is not Cannes itself, but rather the nearby Lérins Islands, which are not to be missed. That's how you'll start the morning, saving a visit to Cannes itself for the afternoon and evening.
Lérins islands
From the Cannes harbor, take a 15-minute ferry ride to the islands. The first boat leaves at 7.30 AM, and the last one back to Cannes departs from the islands at 6:30 PM. It's a very pleasant crossing and a round-trip ticket will only cost you 17.50 euros.
The Lérins islands are actually comprised of 4 different islands, but there are really only two that merit a visit: Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat. You can visti both, of course, but just be careful not to run out of time as we still have Cannes to visit later in the day.
Sainte-Marguerite, closest to Cannes, is interesting for its royal fort which is known for having housed the most famous of French prisoners: “the man in the iron mask”, imprisoned on the orders of Louis XIV and whose identity is still unknown to this day.
Personally, I prefer Saint-Honorat. The very first monastery in the West was founded here in 410 and continues to operate in modern day. On this little 0.37 km² plot of land, you'll find an ancient fortified monastery, ruined chapels, a still-functioning monastery, vineyards (of course!), and around twenty friendly monks who can be heard singing several times a day.
The island's products are renowned, especially, its wine and liqueurs, which are sold all over the world and served at the tables of the President of the Republic and the Prime Minister.
For lunch, I highly recommend a picnic by the water, rather than going to one of the island’s restaurants. The restaurants here are good but quite expensive, and when you can eat by the sea and enjoy the view, I can’t see a reason to do anything else.
The Lerins islands
The Abbey of Lerins. Photo: Florian Pépellin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
The Fortress of Saint-Honorat. Photo: Helge Høifødt, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Afternoon - Cannes
Pop by the Palais des Festivals
Whenever you’re ready to return from the islands, it's time to explore Cannes itself.
You should, of course, begin your visit at the Palais des Festivals, the famous convention center that sits along the waterfront and hosts that most famous of events, the Cannes Film Festival. The venue hosts conventions and events all throughout the year, so it's always worth checking what's going on in case you find something that interests you.
Although the Cannes Film Festival is a thing of great glamour, know that the "palace” is just a modern convention center. You can do tours of it, but honestly, I don't know why you would.
Take a walk through town
After a visit to the palce, the most interesting thing to do in Cannes is really just to walk around and soak up the atmosphere.
This is a busy, modern town, whose streets are ill-suited to car traffic, which can be frustrating for residents going about their daily lives, but very nice for visitors who don't have to deal with cars. The lack of cars also means that the town preserves hints of the past, which you can only feel when you discover it on foot. So stick to the areas around the harbor and follow your instincts as you wander.
And wherever you are, be sure to look up constantly! Cannes is notable for its Belle Époque architecture, so always be sure to admire the architecture around you. Spend the afternoon soaking up the soul of this place, visiting its churches and, of course, going shopping (if you feel like it).
Check out the elegant hotels on the Croisette promenade
Running east from the port, the Croisette promenade is a lovely section of Cannes’ waterfront and you must go for a walk down it when you visit. Cannes was historically a holiday resort, so the coastline is quite lovely and the waterfront hotels are very pretty.
You’ll find a wide green promenade, a welcoming beach and series of beach clubs, restaurants, and bars, along with a magnificent view of the sea and the Lérins islands.
Boulevard de la Croisette. Photo: Gilbert Bochenek, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Canne's city beaches at sunrise
Evening - Dinner in Cannes
Cannes takes on a different look in the evening as young people and those looking to party start filling the streets. Along with Juan-les-Pins, this is one of the Riviera's favorite destinations for a big night out and there are many bars and nightclubs on offer, particularly near the Palais des Festivals.
If you're looking to party, this is a good place to be.
For dinner, I personally tend to avoid eating in Cannes as it's not really my scene and I don't find the restaurants to be particularly good. When I "must” eat in town, I usually get a burger or nachos at Ma Nolan's Pub. It's about as far from fancy as you can get, so perhaps this is my subconcious way of contrasting with the town's chic atmosphere.
If fish is your thing, head to the restaurants along the western part of the port.
If you opt to spend the night in Grasse, I'd recommend returning there for dinner.
Overnight in Cannes or Grasse
Grasse makes the obvious choice if you spent last night there. But… if you're planning a big night out, maybe staying in Cannes is a good idea.
Day 6 - Fréjus and Saint-Tropez
The little cape that blocks the view to the west of Cannes is the foot of the Estérel massif, which after the charming village of Théoule-sur-Mer, marks the boundary between two very different parts of the Riviera.
To the east (Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monaco), you have the best-known part of the chic and touristy Riviera.
To the west, you enter the part of the Riviera whose atmosphere is much closer to Marcel Pagnol's novels. It's the Provence of petanque, pastis, and calanques. This is more traditional, more authentic, and much less visited.
The town of Fréjus perfectly embodies the junction between these two atmospheres.
Saint-Tropez
Morning - Fréjus
From Cannes or Grasse, there are two possible routes to Fréjus: the one along the seafront or the one inland through the Estérel massif. Whichever you choose, don't take the highway: it would be a waste!
The coastline, made up of surprising red stone, offers some remarkable scenery. Villas are being built all over the place, but the area remains unspoiled and you can still find many places to go for a swim if you feel like it.
As for the inland road, it takes you through a rugged landscape typical of Mediterranean scrubland and a little reminiscent of California. It’s also well worth exploring.
If you take the highway, you'll miss this lovely scenery.
Whichever route you choose, you’ll be in Fréjus fairly quickly, typically in about 40 minutes from both Cannes or Grasse.
Enjoy Fréjus' historic center
On arrival, go straight to the historic center. Here, you'll always be halfway between unspoiled local life and the tourist dynamism of this famous town. The people of Provence love to come and swim in Fréjus, which is quieter and more intimate than Cannes and Nice.
The one must-see attraction in town is the Roman amphitheater, which now hosts cultural events and concerts. Entry costs just 3 euro, but honestly, you don't really need to go inside. Much of the amphitheater has been rebuilt with concrete, so it doesn't offer much history anymore. You don't have to feel guilty if you just have a look from the outside!
Fréjus, once known as Forum Julii, was an important metropolis in the Roman Empire, as evidenced by the remains that can be seen all over the town (which will remind those who know it of Rome).
In 1959, the town was hit by a tragedy of exceptional proportions. A 48 million cubic meters dam burst and the water rushed over Fréjus. Astonishingly, the ancient amphitheater was one of the buildings that resisted the deluge and it even diverted part of the torrent. Talk about Roman quality! It goes without saying that the locals love their historic heritage.
Lunch and a swim
After exploring the town, you can have lunch in the historic streets or, if you prefer, by the sea. In the latter case, head over to the area between the port and the old harbor (towards Saint-Raphaël). You'll be able to enjoy a view of the beach from many of the restaurants and you can even choose to have a picnic there if you prefer.
After lunch, relax for a bit and enjoy a swim. Unlike with the amphitheater, you 100% should feel guilty if you don't go swimming while in Fréjus. It is not technically a criminal offense not to, but it should be!
Post-swim, take a stroll along the town's harbor to drive off.
Fréjus and its sandy beach. Photo: Cyrilb1881, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon - Scenic drive and visit Saint-Tropez
Drive the scenic D559 road to Saint-Tropez
Once dried off from your swimming in Fréjus, it's time to hit the road again, this time heading for Saint-Tropez. It's about a one-hour drive on the D559 road, but for something a bit different you can also take a 1-hour ferry from Frejus.
Theoretically, the journey by car takes an hour, but I very much recommend that you take your time. There are plenty of viewpoints and swimming spots along the way, so you should take advantage and enjoy them! This route is an opportunity to fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Provence.
Stop for the view (and a dip?) at Pointe des Sardinaux
Before reaching Saint-Tropez, you must stop at the the Pointe des Sardinaux, overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. This spot has been preserved in a natural state, so take a walk and enjoy the view and the clear water.
Enjoy some time in famous Saint-Tropez
Finally, you’ll arrive in Saint-Tropez. Here again, authentic local life happens alongside the most glamorous of atmospheres. Before indulging in the famous nightlife, explore the town.
Stroll around the old port and, above all, visit the citadel to discover the surprising history of this town, which was occupied by the Arabs in the Middle Ages and then for a time was an independent city-State, like Monaco.
The maritime museum (housed in the citadel) will round off your discovery by telling you that Saint-Tropez was also one of the most important ports in the kingdom of France. It was a place of war, trade, and exploration; a far cry from the jet-setting crowd that you’ll find here now. It also offers a great view.
A view over Saint-Tropez. Photo: Ryodo477, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A beach club at Pampelonne beach on the edge of Saint-Tropez
The "port” of Saint-Tropez
The gorgeous coastline near to Saint-Tropez
Evening - Enjoy a stylish night out
Some Tropéziens will tell you that a good evening is spent on the Vieux-Port, where you’ll find bars, restaurants, nightclubs, and of course, atmosphere. Others will tell you that you need to head south of the city to Tahiti and Pampelonne beaches.
Many outdoor parties are held here and you can enjoy beach bars, DJs, sand, and nighttime swimming. It's up to you to choose the atmosphere that you prefer!
For dining, I prefer the harbor area and its fish restaurants. They eat a lot of fish in this part of the Riviera and many restaurants offer menus based on the daily catch, which is a guarantee of quality.
I don't have a favorite place in Saint-Tropez, but here's some advice: always go for family-run restaurants instead of large establishments. That's where you'll find authenticity.
And after dinner, there's nothing to stop you from making your way to the beaches if you want to extend your evening. Of course, they're busiest in summer!
Overnight in Saint-Tropez
Day 7 - Hyères and its "golden isles”
Enough glitter and festivities. On your final day in the Riviera, immerse yourself in one of the most authentic parts of the region. Hyères, its bay, and above all, its islands, are truly enchanting.
Amongst this beautiful Mediterranean landscape, you’ll experience an unspoiled place where you can enjoy the sun and the sea in bliss. One of the islands, that of Port-Cros, even has national park status.
A sail boat off the coast of the island of Porquerolles
Morning - Trip to the Iles d'Hyeres (the Hyeres islands)
You’ve probably already guessed, but yes, it's time for some more islands. The Îles d'Hyères, also sometimes called the Îles d’Or (golden islands) are made up of 3 islands: Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Le Levant.
They're all worth visiting and, if you plan well, you can actually visit all three in a day. From the town of Hyeres, it’s 24 euros for a round-trip ferry ticket to Porquerolles, and 29 euros for each of the other two.
The drive to Hyeres from Saint-Tropez takes around an hour if you go on the inland road or 1 hour 30 if you take the more scenic D559 coastal road.
Ferries to Port-Cros and Levant leave from Port d'Hyeres Saint-Pierre, the town's marina that is on the coast a few km away from the (inland) center of Hyeres. Ferries take about 45 minutes. To get to Porquerolles, you'll want to go to the little town of La Tour Fondue, about 20 minutes from Hyeres.
If you don't want to deal with organizing ferries, you can also book a spot on a full-day boat trip.
Hyeres islands
Like most people, I prefer Port-Cros, which is wild, unspoiled, and welcoming. When here, you'll feel like you've been transported centuries back in time, long before buildings were springing up everywhere. The entire island is a protected national park.
A visit to the Fort de l'Eminence and the Fortin de la Vigie will reinforce this impression of traveling back in time. Not to mention the views you'll enjoy from these heights.
If you're coming in summer, I'd recommend two things: first, try to arrive fairly early in the morning, before the majority of visitors get here. Second, take the time to prepare your visit to the islands in advance. Many events are organized here, so it’s worth seeing what’s happening during your travel dates and making reservations if necessary.
Finally, don't come without flippers, a mask, and a snorkel. You'll miss out on half the beauty of the landscape - the underwater part – if you don’t have them.
Have lunch directly on Port-Cros or Porquerolles. Both islands have good snack bars and restaurants. The latter again offer excellent seafood. Personally, I prefer a picnic in a quiet, secluded spot by the water. In summer, I know of few pleasures greater than eating a mixed salad and a slice of watermelon on the beach before going for a swim.
As for any trash from your picnic, the islands have plenty of bins, even in their most isolated parts. Everything is well organized to ensure that visitors respect the area. As always, don't forget to take water (at least one liter per person per half-day in summer).
The tiny marina of Port-Cros. Photo: Rémih, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A beach on Porquerolles
Another beach on Porquerolles
A trail on Port-Cros. Photo: VT98Fan, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon - More time to relax on the islands and a late arrival to Hyères
Take your time on the islands; you really should spend all day on them. I'd recommend planning to depart for Hyeres in the late afternoon, meaning you'll arrive to town in the early evening.
Enjoy the late afternoon in Hyères
Arriving to town in the late afternoon, you should begin your visit with a stroll through the narrow streets. Of course, Hyères is also a place deeply marked by history. The city was founded over 2,500 years ago after all.
It's up to you to plan your visit according to the time you return from the islands. Among other remarkable sites (the castle, the art galleries, etc.), I particularly like the Templar tower, which is very small and can be visited freely. It was one of the commanderies of this famous order of fighting monks.
The Tower has the advantage of being located in the heart of the historic city, on a square occupied by numerous terrace bars. So, grabbing a drink on a terrace is an excellent way to make the transition to the early evening!
All the more so as, in my opinion, the most interesting restaurants in town are also located along the square. Take the time to choose the one that inspires you most, and beware of the exorbitant prices charged by some during the summer period.
A view over Hyères and the coast beyond. Photo: Hyerestourisme, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening - Dinner in Hyères and a visit to its night market
By now you've probably understood that however peaceful a place on the Riviera may be, its nightlife remains vibrant, especially in the warmer months, thanks both to tourism and to the locals taking advantage of the cool night air.
There's no shortage of places to spend the evening in Hyères, and the "Cité Médiévale" (the old town) has the widest choice of bars. However, it would be a shame to miss out on the attractions of the port.
The harbor offers a triple advantage: its typical Mediterranean setting (a small marina located between two beaches), its bars and, above all, its night market. The market is a succession of stalls, crafts, etc. which make the harbor the busiest place in town. This is only true in summer though, as while the market is held every evening, it only runs from July through August.
In any case, this is a great way to make the most of your last evening on the French Riviera, whether you go for a drink, some shopping, or an evening swim overlooking the islands.
Overnight in Hyerés or return to Saint-Tropez for another night
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