Spain Itinerary for First Timers - 14 Days Without a Car
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Spain is a deceptively large country, one that continues to surprise even those travelers who have returned again and again to the Iberian Peninsula during their lifetime. The different regions each come with their own flavor, and the sheer breadth of cultures and landscapes that you can experience here is mind-boggling.
As such, 14 days is too little to explore the entirety of Spain – but it’s a nice amount of time to give it a darn good try. With two weeks, you’ll be able to visit both Madrid and Barcelona, head down south to Andalucía (the Spain you’ve daydreamed about), and also head north into the Basque Country, that unique little corner of Spain that feels like an entirely different country.
So, this whirlwind 2-week tour of Spain will give you a good overview of the country, showing you just how different local cultures can be, even between places just a few miles apart, and will have you plotting your return journey after you discover the sheer amount of diversity Spain offers as a destination.
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Table of Contents
What to know when planning your trip
How long to spend
When to visit
Where to go on a first trip
How to get around
Itinerary overview
Two week Spain itinerary
Days 1-3: Madrid
Day 4: Sevilla
Day 5: Ronda and the White Villages
Day 6: Córdoba
Days 7-8: Granada and the Alhambra
Days 9-10: Barcelona
Days 11-12: San Sebastian
Days 13-14: Bilbao
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Things to consider when planning a Spain itinerary
Below I’ve put together a quick overview of the main things you should think about when planning a first trip to Spain. For more in-depth answers to the questions/topics, have a look at my Spain travel guide.
How long to spend
If you’re hoping to see a decent chunk of the country, you need at least two weeks for a first trip to Spain. 14 days gives you enough time to visit Madrid and Barcelona, explore the highlights of Andalusia, and see a little bit of Northern Spain.
Even with two weeks, don’t make the mistake of thinking you’ll be able to see the entire country. You can’t. You’re inevitably going to spend 5-6 days just between Madrid and Barcelona, so that’s basically already your first week gone. To visit Andalusia, you’ll want at least 4 days (and 5 and up would be better). That leaves you with 4 remaining days - which I think are best spent getting a little taste of Spain’s north via the Basque cities of Bilbao and San Sebastian.
Also know that both Barcelona and Madrid have lots of excellent nearby day trips, so you could quite easily spend 4 days based in each city, dedicating a few days to each city and a few more to the surrounding region. These are two of Europe’s grandest cities and they are unbelievably full of sights, monuments, museums, pleasant neighborhoods, and fabulous restaurants. You don’t want to rush through them.
Now, if you only have 10 days, you can still have a good trip, but you can’t try to see so much of the country.
With 10 days, you should just focus on 4 main cities: Madrid, Barcelona, Granada, and Sevilla. You’ll have enough time to see each city’s highlights and take a few days trips to some wonderful nearby places.
The right way to divide up a 10 day trip is: 3 days in Madrid, 3 days in Barcelona, 2 days in/around Granada, and 2 days in/around Sevilla.
It’s not enough time, but you’ll still have a wonderful visit.
When to visit
The best time to visit really depends on where you’re going and what you’re hoping to do while here. Spain’s different regions have very different climates, so you can’t assume that one time will be best for the entire country.
For example, central Spain and Andalusia in the south are both very pleasant in the month of October when you’ll get warm and sunny days, crisp evenings, and very little chance of rain.
That description is not true for Northern Spain, however, which can become chilly and rainy by October.
The same advice is true for the spring - April and May can be great times to visit from Madrid and south, but the northern coastline, the Pyrenees mountains, and the area all around Barcelona may still be a bit chilly and rainy. It also may be lovely in those areas, but you run the risk of bad weather.
High season (avoid if possible - unless you’re coming to hit the beach)
High season in Spain runs from June through the first half of September. This is when the vast majority of visitors come and you should expect for prices to skyrocket, for everywhere to be crowded, and for popular sights and destinations to feel their most touristy. It can be a nice time to visit the country if you’re coming for a beach trip, but I never recommend it for a sightseeing trip, and especially not if it’s your first time and you’ll be visiting the biggest cities and most touristed destinations.
Shoulder season (best time to visit for most people)
Shoulder season in Spain is basically April and May and October and November. Both periods represent a good balance between ideal weather and ideal prices.
Personally, I prefer the fall to the spring because I think the scenery is gorgeous and I like the way that everywhere in the country falls back into its natural rhythms as people prepare for the winter. The vineyards, the mountains, medieval villages, and cities’ grand boulevards and leafy squares all become very atmospheric in the fall. And the light is divine everywhere.
So, if you’re coming for a countrywide trip and planning to combine sightseeing in towns and cities with a bit of outdoors activities (including a possible beach day here and there), I think the ideal time to visit is the end of September and the very start of October.
I like the fall period so much that I’ve even written little guides to visiting in each month:
Winter (good for returning visitors or off-the-beaten-path travelers)
A winter visit will not be right for most first-time visitors, but it can actually be quite pleasant, especially for returning visitors or those who want to see a less touristy and less “summery” side of Spain.
The south of the country remains comparatively pleasant all throughout the winter and there’s still little rain in most of it even in this period, so you can still hike, bike, sightsee, and road trip around.
Big cities also become festive in the period around Christmas and New Years, and it can be very fun to be here for the celebrations.
Additionally, there are almost no crowds anywhere and hotels, car rentals, and all sorts of other tourist services can be found for an absolute bargain.
All this said, I would avoid visiting the north in winter as it can be cold, wet, and quite dreary.
For more on a winter visit, you can see my guides to visiting in each month:
Where to go on a first trip
For a first visit to Spain, I think your absolute “must-visits” are Madrid, Barcelona, Granada, and Sevilla.
These are 4 of Spain’s most beautiful cities and they have each held extreme importance for the history and development of Spain, the Iberian peninsula, and all of Europe. You cannot come to Spain and not visit them.
Each city also has lots of excellent nearby cites, towns, countryside, and sights/monuments, many of which are easily accessible via public transit, so they are the perfect places in which to base yourself for at least a few days.
From Madrid you can visit the medieval cities of Toledo, Avila, and Segovia as well as the stunning palace/monastery of El Escorial.
From Barcelona, you can take a day trip to the Costa Brava, the wonderful mountaintop monastery of Montserrat, and the little-visited Empordá wine region.
From Granada, the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains are just beyond the city limits while Sevilla offers access to Cordoba and her amazing “Mezquita” in addition to the lovely “Ciudades Blancas” (white villages, like Ronda).
These 4 major cities and their surroundings encompass a bit of Spain’s center, east, and far south, so I think the right way to round out an exploratory countrywide trip is with a visit to the country’s north.
The north is one of my favorite parts of Spain and you could spend weeks exploring only it, but I think the region of the Basque Country provides the best “concentrated dose” of what this area offers. Within it, Bilbao and San Sebastian are the obvious places to focus on.
For more ideas on where to go in Spain, have a look at my guide to Spain’s regions and my article on 16 beautiful places in Spain.
How to get around
Spain’s public transportation is excellent and a fantastic network of high-speed trains connects almost all major cities as well as most medium and smaller ones as well. Many towns are even connected by local trains and there are almost always regular buses to places that the train doesn’t reach.
Spain’s highway system is also very good and road conditions are excellent.
Although all large cities have airports, most journeys are actually quicker and more convenient by train.
Within cities, Madrid and Barcelona have fairly comprehensive metro systems and most other cities have good bus networks.
Public transportation
For this itinerary, you should plan on using a combination of train, bus, and flight. The only time when you will ever need a car (or a private driver) is on day 5 when you’ll be visiting Ronda and the White Villages in Andalusia.
There’s also only one flight, from Granada to Barcelona on day 9. For all other travel days, you can easily use the train. Having a car would not improve the experience and would actually just be a hassle.
Public transport in Spain is excellent and the high-speed rail network will realistically get you between your destinations much faster than by car, and sometimes faster than by plane! Trains run all across the country, including to smaller towns, service is frequent, trains are comfortable, and ticket prices are fairly cheap.
The national rail carrier is called Renfe.
Renting a car
For this specific itinerary, you don’t need a car (and you wouldn’t want it on the long travel days). However, if you plan to change the route or if you just want the freedom of a car, it can still be nice to have.
If you plan on renting, you’ll find all the big international rental agencies in Spain. Any medium or large city will have rental offices, but for the best selection it’s usually ideal to rent in a city with an international airport or a busy train station.
To check prices and book a car, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
Itinerary overview
I’ve designed this itinerary with first-time visitors in mind, and have prioritized including as many as possible of what I think are Spain’s truly unmissable places.
I’ve also been very intentional about covering a wide geographic area, because the different parts of Spain have very different landscapes, cuisines, cultures, and even architecture. To get a real feel for all of that, you have to cover at least some of the center of the country, the south, the east, and the north, which is what I’ve done.
This is most definitely a whirlwind trip and it will have you moving around quite a bit, but that’s what you need to do if you want to see a large swathe of the country.
Here’s a quick overview of the plan:
Spend your first 3 days exploring Madrid, including a day trip out to one of the medieval cities or palaces nearby (Toledo, Segovia, El Escorial).
Then, head south to Andalusia for 5 days, visiting Sevilla, the White Villages, Córdoba, and Granada.
From there, I’ve planned 2 days in Barcelona, on the northeastern coast.
And to wrap things up, you’ll have 4 days in the north, split between San Sebastián and Bilbao.
Days 1-3: Exploring Madrid
Starting any trip to Spain in Madrid is a wonderful idea. Over the next few days, you’ll explore the Spanish capital, a pulsing hub of good food, culture, and nightlife.
Day 1: Madrid - the city’s highlights
Madrid’s Plaza Mayor
Morning
Madrid is jam-packed with great things to see and do, so it’s time to get cracking. Start off your explorations on foot in Puerta del Sol, where you can see the famous statue of the bear and the strawberry tree, the symbol of Madrid. Also here is the Kilometer Zero plaque, from where all roads in Spain are measured.
Southwest of here and just a few minutes away is Plaza Mayor, another central square to admire. Then, head over to the Mercado de San Miguel, a historic food market made of iron and glass that holds a wealth of gourmet options for tapas (note this down for later!).
From the Mercado, continue heading west in the city and you’ll turn up on the doorstep of the Royal Palace, the official resident of Spain’s royal family (although it’s only used for State ceremonies). It’s worth venturing inside (book tickets in advance) to gawk at the lavish rooms, complete with exquisite artworks, red-velvet walls, golden ornaments, and crystal chandeliers.
If you choose to just admire the palace from the exterior, a good place to end your morning’s walking tour is just to the north at Plaza de España. Formerly a traffic-choked square to avoid, the cars have now been rerouted into underground tunnels and the large esplanades on all sides given over to pedestrians.
For lunch, stroll back toward Plaza Mayor for a classic bocadillo con calamares, one of the typical dishes of Madrid.
Afternoon
For your afternoon in Madrid, head over to the Parque del Buen Retiro, the city’s famous park east of the city center. What was once solely reserved for the enjoyment of the Spanish royals has been the shady and green retreat for Madrileños since the early 19th century. The center-point of it all is the pond in the middle, where you can rent pedal boats and enjoy some time on the water.
Near the pond you can also find the Crystal Palace, another major landmark inside the park. Once you’ve ticked off these two spots, the park is a nice place to get lost, wandering the paths, admiring sculptures and fountains, and gearing up for Madrid’s fierce nightlife.
Evening
For tapas and drinks, head into La Latina and you’ll find a wealth of options to choose from. And if you’re keen to sample Madrid’s famous nightlife, west of La Latina is the barrio Lavapiés, which turns into a large street party most nights as the bars overflow with Madrileños.
Day 2: Madrid - the Golden Triangle of Art
The Museo del Prado. Photo: Coralma*, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning
Madrid’s most famous attraction might just be its Golden Triangle of Art, made up of three world-class museums: El Museo del Prado, Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza. The three combines are home to one of the world’s most valuable collections of art.
There’s far too much to cover in one morning – far too much even for three days – but it’s recommended to visit at least one of these museums. El Museo del Prado is home to works by several Spanish masters, including Velázquez, Goya, and Zurbaran. The most famous piece on show here is undoubtedly Velázquez’s Las Meninas.
In the Reina Sofia, most attractive are the great works of Surrealism and Cubism by artists Dalí and Picasso, with the latter’s work Guernica the biggest draw.
And finally, inside Thyssen-Bornemisza is a private collection of art that showcases an incredible amount of works by some of the best European and American artists from the 13th until the 20th century.
Afternoon
After lunch (perhaps a picnic in El Parque del Buen Retiro after exhausting yourself with art?), head down onto the metro to whisk yourself back across the city toward the Templo de Debod, an ancient temple gifted to Spain by Egypt.
From here, it’s a short hop over to Gran Via, one of the main thoroughfares in the city and also one of the busiest shopping streets in the world.
Evening
For dinner and drinks tonight, tapas crawl your way through the streets of gritty Malasaña, another barrio that’s filled with some of the coolest bars and restaurants you can find in Madrid.
Day 3: Day trip from Madrid - Toledo, Segovia, or El Escorial
There are a lot of worth things to see within an easy distance of Madrid, so on your third day, it’s time to leave the city in the rearview mirror. Here are three fantastic day trip options:
The city of Toledo is a popular choice, a historic city that was once the capital of Spain. Known in the Middle Ages as ‘The City of Three Cultures’, here is where Christian, Jewish, and Muslim communities lived together peacefully.
As such, the city is filled with historic gems, from mosques, cathedrals, and synagogues, and a day spent here getting lost amongst the winding, Medieval streets is a day well spent. It’s only 30 minutes away on the high-speed train from Madrid.
The city of Segovia is even closer than Toledo on the train, home to Spain’s most impressive pieces of Roman history, the Aqueduct. Also in the city is the formidable Alcázar, a castle that looks as if it was lifted straight out of a fairy-tale – or perhaps the other way around, since it’s said that this castle is where Walt Disney found inspiration for Sleeping Beauty’s castle.
El Escorial is another option to consider as a day trip from Madrid. This beautiful little town rests in the foothills of the mountains north of Madrid, home to the Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial.
This monastery and palace served as a royal retreat for King Felipe II in the 16th century, surrounded by magnificent gardens and filled with wonderful artworks.
Days 4-5: Seville, Ronda, and the White Villages
From Madrid, high-speed trains whisk you down south into the heart of Andalucía in under 2.5 hours. Here, you’ll spend a few days exploring the wonderful culture and heritage of the city and drive through the nearby mountains to discover a clutch of stunning, white-washed villages.
Day 4: Seville - The cathedral & Real Alcazár
Sevilla’s Plaza de España
Morning
Catch the high-speed train from Madrid and you’ll be hopping off at the station in Seville in just under 2.5 hours later. It’s a wonderful way to arrive in the capital of Andalucía, a devastatingly beautiful place filled with ornate palaces, Moorish heritage, and leafy parks.
Head straight into the old town after hopping off your train, making your way to the Cathedral of Seville. It’s the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world, so you should have no trouble navigating yourself there.
Take a tour of the rooftop and you’ll enjoy wonderful views over the city while learning about the construction of the cathedral, built on top of a former mosque.
Afternoon
Tapas is serious business in Seville, so take your pick from the thousands of taverns you’ll find in the side streets and back alleys of the old town.
Then, make sure you’ve reserved entrance to the Real Alcazár, a 10th century palace where you can see remarkably well-preserved layers of history, with everyone from the Moors to the Christians leaving their mark on the impressive building.
As the afternoon wears on, head over to the Plaza de España, a magnificent monument celebrating Spain’s historic cities and villages, each represented by a unique mural made of the famous azulejo tiles of Seville.
Evening
More tapas awaits for dinner, and ask anyone about places to eat and the restaurant La Brunilda will probably come up in conversation. Despite its popularity, this is a spot that’s deserving of its hype. Order the papas bravas, a house specialty.
Day 5: Ronda and the While Villages of Andalusia
Ronda
Today, it’s time to leave the city behind and venture into the Andalusia countryside, so hire a driver/tour guide for the day or pick up a rental car first thing and hit the road.
Start from Seville and drive for about an hour and a half to Zahara de la Sierra, a picturesque white village perched on a hill overlooking a reservoir. Here, make sure to admire the castle and the cathedral, both of which enjoy exceptional views points over the surrounding Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park.
From Zahara, continue for another half an hour to Grazalema, a charming village nestled in the mountains, famous for its woolen blankets and cheese. Here, the cobbled streets are a joy to explore for a while, turning up sunny squares for a drink and some food.
After lunch, in about 45 minutes you can be at Ronda, one of the most spectacular and popular pueblos blancos in Andalucía. Built on both sides of a deep gorge with a spectacular bridge connecting two halves of the city, the jaw-dropping setting is only one of the attractions of a visit here.
The historic bullring is one of the oldest in Spain, and indeed, this town is where bullfighting was practically invented, there are beautiful squares and quiet gardens to explore, and the views over the gorge toward the plains below are unforgettable.
From Ronda, it’s just under a 2-hour drive to get back to Seville for the night.
Day 6: Córdoba & the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba
On Day 6, you’ll travel on the train from Seville to Córdoba to visit La Mezquita, one of the most impressive pieces of Muslim architecture in the entire world.
Moorish Arches in the Mezquita
Morning
From Seville’s station, the high-speed train whisks you to Córdoba in about 45 minutes, giving you plenty of time to walk the 30 minutes to the Mezquita from the station in Córdoba.
Despite the crowds it’s a serene experience to visit this incredible mosque, where you can spend hours admiring the mix of Moorish and Christian architecture styles, the graceful interior patios, and the cathedral that was erected inside the center of the mosque.
Afternoon
For lunch, try some of Córdoba’s classic tapas dishes, like salmorejo (a thicker and creamier version of gazpacho) and flamenquines (pork meat wrapped in ham, then crumbed, and deep-fried). Both are mainstays on most tapas restaurants in Córdoba’s historic center.
Then, next to the Mezquita is the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, a 14th-century castle and palace that boasts some excellent gardens filled with bubbling fountains, cypress trees, and statues.
Evening
As the evening falls, the area around La Mezquita is perfect for exploring. This area is known as La Judería, the city’s old Jewish quarter.
Amongst the jumble of narrow streets and white-washed houses you’ll find plenty of small tapas bars, as well as handicraft stores; the area is particularly famous for its silver jeweler makers.
Connect with Alfonso in San Sebastian for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Days 7-8: Granada
From Córdoba, jump on one of the many trains that swoop down to Granada, one of Andalucía’s most popular destinations. Here there’s even more Moorish heritage to experience; you’ll want to dedicate an entire morning to the Alhambra (bookings in advance are required), and also take to exploring the historic Moorish neighborhoods of the city.
Day 7: Granada - the Albaicín neighborhood & Arab Baths
The Albaicín neighborhood
Morning
As you arrive at Granada, make your way to the eastern end of town, where you can spend your morning taking in the views from the lofty Albaicín neighborhood.
This is the old Moorish quarter nestled on the hill, filled with a jumble of white-washed houses, steep cobbled paths, and plenty of tranquil squares and views toward the Alhambra. The narrow streets are full of cozy restaurants as well, so take your pick.
And remember, Granada is famous in Spain for tapas coming with your drinks; all you need to do is order two or three glasses of wine or beer in succession, and with each round comes another plate of food that quickly adds up into a full meal.
Afternoon
After a well-deserved siesta, spend a relaxed afternoon soaking in hot water like the Moors used to do at the Al Ándalus Hammam. This is a bath complex inspired by the Moorish baths of old, one of the first to reopen in Europe after Christian rulers closed the Moorish bathhouses across Andalucía.
The interior is luxurious, and will leave you feeling like a Moorish Sultan after some time in the thermal water.
Evening
For tapas tonight, spend time hopping between the bars in the Realejo neighborhood, the city’s old Jewish quarter until they were expelled after the Christian Conquest in 1492. Here, the tight-knit streets feature plenty of street art and small, hole-in-the-wall bars, bodegas, and tea rooms.
Start off in the main square Campo de Príncipe at some of the bars and then see where the night takes you.
Day 8: Granada - the Alhambra Palace & Flamenco
The Alhambra
Morning
On the morning of Day 8, you’ll want to head to the Alhambra first thing. It opens at 8:30 AM, but an early start will reward you with fewer crowds as you explore.
Don’t underestimate how large the Alhambra is. This complex is made up of several points of interest worth checking out. The most famous features include the Nasrid Palaces, the Charles V Palace, the Alcazaba, and the Generalife Gardens. Tickets include entrance to some of the above or all of them, and you can easily spend 3–4 hours taking it all in.
Afternoon
After you’ve had your fill of the wonderful Alhambra, head down into the city center below, where you can wander the streets and discover local ceramic artist shops, guitar makers, and ancient-looking tea rooms.
The Granada Cathedral is worth a look inside, as is the Royal Chapel. The atmosphere of the center is infectious; for tapas, wander up and down the streets Calle Navas and Calle Elvira, both overflowing with good spots to enjoy some drinks and food.
Evening
A traditional way to enjoy Granada has always been to go to one of the flamenco shows that take place in the caves of the Sacromonte hill, which lies just to the south of the hilly Albaicín neighborhood.
Try venues Cueva La Rocio or Venta el Gallo for some of the best shows.
Days 9-10: Barcelona
On Day 9, catch a flight from Granada to Barcelona, capital of Catalonia and one of the major attractions of any trip to Spain. Here, you’ll spend a few days taking in the best the city has to offer, including the zany architectural creations of Antoni Gaudi.
Day 9: Barcelona - Gaudi and the Sagrada Familia
Looking out from Parc Guell
Morning
On your first day in Barcelona, get an early start (and a jump on the crowds) and head to the famed La Boqueria Market, off Las Ramblas. Normally chock-full of tourists, early mornings are best for exploring this ancient marketplace which has been here since the early days of Barcelona.
Head to El Quim de la Boqueria, where you can grab a stool at opening and wolf down the specialty eggs and baby squid.
After you’ve had your breakfast, make your way toward Antoni Gaudi’s most famous creation, La Sagrada Familia. This spectacular and intricate cathedral towers above the rest of Barcelona and is one of the most visited sites in the world.
Book your ticket in advance and make sure to venture inside, which is equally as spectacular as the exteriors.
Afternoon
There’s more Gaudi waiting for you in the afternoon. After lunch and a siesta, catch the metro or a bus up the hill toward Park Güell. The curvy terrace and the vibrant Guard’s House are backdropped by views over the city and sea, one of the most enduring images you’ll have of Barcelona.
Then there are Gaudi’s bizarre architectural details to take in: a giant lizard, the shattered tiles that he used to bring life to his architectural forms, and huge columns that resemble tree trunks.
Evening
As night begins to fall, make your way back down to the city center, taking a stroll down the shopping street Passeig de Gracia.
Here, you’ll be able to admire the exteriors of both Casa Mila and Casa Batlló, two more of Gaudi’s works, which take on a different atmosphere as the sun goes down and the street lights illuminate their curving, bizarre façades.
Day 10: Barcelona - El Barrio Gótico, El Born, & Barceloneta
The beach down by the Barceloneta neighborhood
Morning
El Barrio Gótico (the Gothic Quarter) is the old medieval city center of Barcelona, a web of cobbled, pedestrian-only streets filled with interesting things to see. Spend your morning wandering the streets, looking into local handicraft stores, picking up souvenirs, and essentially soaking up the atmosphere.
La Plaza Real is a central hub, as are the large squares in front of and behind the Barcelona Cathedral: Plaza Nova and Plaza de Sant Jaume.
From the Cathedral, you can easily cross over into El Born, which has even more narrow streets to explore and an overflow of local craft stores.
Continue through to reach the area around Arc de Triomf, where street performers entertain locals with music, puppet theater, and dancing.
Afternoon
When you’re ready for lunch, there are plenty of modern restaurants lining the leafy Passeig de Sant Joan, which runs up from the Arc de Triomf.
After you’ve eaten, make your way back down to Parc Ciutadella for a stroll, and then through to Barceloneta, the city’s historic beach neighborhood.
Evening
The beach here is busy most days, especially at sunset when locals gather with friends on the sand. Bars and restaurants line the promenade heading up the coast, and there are also chiringuitos (beach bars) on the sand, good spots for paella.
Try Peix Vela at the foot of the W Hotel, or Chiringuito Escribà further up the coast.
Days 11-12: San Sebastian
From Barcelona, you can either choose to catch the train to San Sebastian (5 hours 45 minutes) or a flight (1 hour 15 minutes) to San Sebastian, a city in the Basque Country of Spain near the border with France. This is one of Spain’s culinary capitals; over the next two days you’ll get to experience the incredible Basque flavors and explore the beautiful city.
Day 11: San Sebastian - Pintxos & the Casco Viejo
San Sebasitan and its La Concha Beach
Morning & Afternoon
If you’ve taken the train from Barcelona, you should be arriving just in time for lunch. The old town of San Sebastian is the best place to try pintxos, small bites of food on top of slices of bread, the entire thing held together by a skewer. This is the Basque Country’s answer to tapas, and you’ll find pintxo bars everywhere you go in the area.
Inside the pintxo bars, the countertops are laden with platters of different types of pintxos, and the way to go about it is to grab a plate and load it up with whatever you like. You pay at the end according to how many skewers you have.
After lunch, a stroll through the old town is a must, home to some of the most elegant buildings you’ll see in Spain. If you head east and cross the river, you’ll find yourself at Zurriola Beach, where you can relax on the sand and watch the surfers catch waves offshore.
Evening
For sunset, head back out across the bridge and follow the riverside promenade as it leads out onto the headland. Here, each evening, locals and visitors gather along the footpath and sea wall to watch as the sun sinks below the Bay of Biscay.
Then, it’s back into the old town for dinner, where you can hop between pintxo bars to your heart’s delight.
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Day 12: San Sebastian - Monte Urgull & the city beaches
Monte Urgull, rising above San Sebastian’s old town
Morning
Start your second day in San Sebastian by hiking up Monte Urgull, looming over the old town. It’ll take about an hour of wandering to reach the peak, and along the way you’ll get to enjoy stunning views over the city and its two beaches.
Afternoon
Come down the mountain on its western edge, where you can walk by a small port area on the bay. Here, there are plenty of great seafood restaurants lining the water – take your pick for lunch and enjoy a well-deserved break after your morning walk. Seafood here is best washed down with a glass of Txakoli, the local white wine.
After lunch, collapse on the sand at Playa de la Concha, San Sebastian’s other beach, and one of the finest city beaches a place could ask for.
Evening
For your last evening in San Sebastian, take a taxi to a cider house in the hills behind town, who open their doors to thirsty drinkers for what is known as txotx. For a fixed price, you’ll be able to enjoy unlimited cider from huge barrels, and a series of rustic dishes cooked over the grill.
Those dishes usually include tortilla de bacalao (salt cod omelet), bacalao con pimientos (cod with roasted red peppers), and txuleta (aged local beef).
Days 13-14: Bilbao
As you come to the end of your 14 days in Spain, it’s going to end with a bang in Bilbao, the largest city in the Spanish Basque Country. Nowhere else in Europe has undergone such radical change in the past decades, with the city transforming itself from a fading industrial port into a hub of art, culture, and food.
Day 13: Bilbao - the Guggenheim Museum & Casco Viejo
The Guggenheim museum, along the river in Bilbao
Morning
From San Sebastian, Bilbao is an easy bus or train ride away. This is Spain’s fifth largest city and a wonderful place to end your trip in Spain.
On the morning of your arrival, make a beeline for the famous Guggenheim Museum. This masterpiece created by Frank Gehry is the iconic building of the city, representing the changes in Bilbao that have been wrought as it moved from fading industrial port into a cultural powerhouse.
Take in the twisting silver exterior (and the giant puppy made from flowers) before heading inside.
Afternoon
After the zany exhibits of the Guggenheim, make your way into the old town (Casco Viejo) of Bilbao, located on the eastern side of the river. Here, the narrow streets are filled with a historic atmosphere, and it’s the perfect place to wander, admire the gorgeous architecture, and pop into unique stores.
You’ll also pass plenty of tempting pintxo restaurants for lunch – for some of the best, Plaza Nueva is a good hub.
Evening
If you’re lucky enough to be in Bilbao while there’s a football match on, it’s a fantastic experience to watch live with 50,000 other passionate fans. Bilbao is fiercely proud of its team, which has a policy of only signing players who are native to or trained in the greater Basque Country.
This makes it even more impressive when you consider they’ve never dropped out of the first division of La Liga. Matches take place at the San Mamés Stadium.
Day 14: Bilbao - food & culture
Bilbao, seen from the hills outside of the city
Morning
On your last day in Bilbao, start off your morning alongside the locals at the Mercado de la Ribera, the absolute best spot in the entire Basque country to pick up some fresh produce. Think cheeses, fresh fruit and vegetables, charcuterie meats, plump olives, and everything else.
After browsing the stalls for a while, you can also wander up to the second level, where there’s a huge food court made up purely of pintxo bars; grab a table and take your pick.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, make your way to the upscale neighborhood of Indautxu, home to the fascinating building called Azkuna Zentroa. A former warehouse for wine and olive oil, the building has been transformed into a cultural center by renowned French architect Philippe Starck.
Venture inside to the ground floor to admire the 43 unique columns, enjoy a coffee at the café, or take the elevator up to the rooftop terrace where you’ll find a swimming pool.
Evening
You could spend an entire lifetime exploring the pintxo scene in Bilbao, so for your final evening in Spain, take in as much as possible.
Head back to the old town for the atmosphere, or hang out in the Abando district (the newer part of town on the western bank of the river) along Calle Diputación, loaded with more modern choices.
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Alfonso Nuñez
Spain Expert based in San Sebastián
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Hi, I'm Alfonso, and I've been a tour guide and travel consultant here in Spain for the last 18 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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