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Sicily, located smack dab in the center of the Mediterranean Sea, has been fought over and ruled by great empires for Millennia, making it a cultural, architectural, linguistic, and gastronomic melting pot. Here, you’ll find that we have a unique culture quite different from the rest of Italy, a varied and global cuisine, a wonderful mix of architectural styles, and a local dialect that embraces the languages of the various civilizations that have conquered this land.

In short, a visit to Sicily is a chance to travel through thousands of years of history, art, and culture in just one trip and on only one island. And in a 10-day visit, you’ll be able to cover the island from coast to coast, discovering most of its essential wonders.

I’ve organized the itinerary below assuming this is your first visit to Sicily and that you want to see and do as much as possible in the 10 days you have here. This is most definitely a road trip itinerary, so you’ll need to have a car and should expect a fair deal of driving.

And I won’t lie and tell you that I’ve organized a relaxing, tranquil holiday from which you’ll return home “refreshed and recharged”. Very much to the contrary, each day is full of places to visit and things to do, and I’ve tried to strike the perfect balance between fitting in as much as possible while ensuring you’re not rushing crazily from one place to the next and have an adequate amount of time to enjoy everywhere you visit.

If you like to see and do a lot on your travels, and want to get a comprehensive introduction to Sicily, I think this is pretty close to the perfect itinerary. Let’s dig in!

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Table of Contents

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These are one-hour Zoom calls where you’ll get to chat with Gaetano about the trip you’re planning and he’ll share his tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.

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Things to know when planning your trip

Below I've quickly covered the main questions that I imagine you have while working on your plan. For more in-depth answers to all these questions, have a look at our Sicily travel guide and article on the best places in Sicily.

Is 10 days enough time?

In short, yes! For first-time visitors trying to see the “highlights” of Sicily, 10 days allows you to cover the whole island, visiting many of its most famous towns, natural areas, and archaeological sites. You’ll be moving around quite a bit and will have to have a car if you want to do everything I’ve outlined below, but it’s totally possible and will not feel terribly rushed.

You can of course plan a lovely visit here with less time, but in that case you’d need to pick a specific area (typically either the east or the west) and stick to that part of Sicily, leaving the other side of the island for a second trip.

Keep in mind that Sicily is the biggest island in the Mediterranean, so distances here are significant, and being mountainous, travel times can often be longer than you would expect. Traveling around the whole island takes pretty careful planning, and you will often want to break up the journeys between your principal destinations with stops at cities/towns, historical sights, or natural areas that lie along the route.

Here’s how I would typically suggest dividing your time:

Set aside 4 days for western Sicily, during which you can visit Palermo, the seaside town of Cefalù, the Madonie mountains, the fortified hilltop town of Erice, and the lovely Marsala salt pans.

Then plan on a day for a visit to Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples, followed by a 1-2 days hopping between the beautiful Baroque cities of the Val di Noto (Mdocia, Noto, Ragusa, and Scicli).

Finally, you’d finish up your trip with 3 or 4 days on the east coast, splitting your time between Syracuse and Ortigia, and Mount Etna, Taormina, and Catania.

When to visit

I think Sicily is a true year-round destination due to its pleasantly temperate climate and the diversity of sights/attractions that it offers, but having said that, there are some important considerations when choosing the right time for your visit.

Summer is great if you want to hit the beach, but it can get stiflingly hot, especially away from the coast, and the midday sun is intense and strong, making sightseeing an urban exploring pretty unpleasant. This is also the busiest time of year, so expect there to be crowds just about everywhere you go, and for prices to be at their highest.

If you want to come in summer, I’d suggest June rather than July or August, as the crowds won’t yet be at their peaks and the temperatures will be more moderate.

Fall is probably my favorite time of year to travel in Sicily as the days are still pleasantly warm (but not overwhelmingly so like in summer), the sea temperature is at its nicest, you have pretty long daylight hours, and the crowds and prices begin to decrease from their summer highs.

There are also some interesting cultural events during the autumn, like the Taormina Film Festival, the Greek Theater Festival in Syracuse, and the “sagre”, which are festivals held all over the island to celebrate the fall harvest.

Winter is the least attractive time to visit Sicily, but even so, it’s not a bad choice, especially if you’re after local atmosphere and low prices. You’re unlikely to see other tourists here during the winter months, which is very refreshing, and while this is the rainiest time of year, it certainly doesn’t rain every day, and temperatures rarely drop below 50°F.

Strictly touristic towns and beach areas will be closed down for the season, but as long as you stick to cities and towns with significant year-round populations, there will still be plenty of things going on.

Spring, especially the later part of the season, has many of the same positives as the fall: warm but not hot weather, lighter crowds and lower prices, the start of the beach season (although the water will be cold), and an explosion of flowers and life, making it the ideal time to explore the mountains and natural areas. Late April or any time in May would be my recommendation.

Transportation and how to get around

To be frank, Sicily in general does not have good public transport. Our train network has always been woefully inadequate and trains are old, slow, and often late. Many cities aren’t even connected by train, and what routes we do have are basically limited to the northern coast between Messina and Palermo and the eastern coast between Messina and Siracusa.

Outside of destinations along those routes, I wouldn’t even bother looking for a train, and even when one is an option, you should be aware that they are often late and they are always very, very slow.

Trains aside, Sicily does have a relatively decent bus network, with far more comprehensive coverage and much more frequent service. Our main cities, touristic towns, and popular sights are all well connected to one another by bus, and the towns within the vicinity of a large metropolitan area will also often have good connections.

A potential challenge of traveling by bus, however, is that the system here is made up of many different companies who are the sole operators on either particular routes or for regions of Sicily. This means that you can’t just go to a company’s website and plan out all your trips, as no one company covers the whole island. Sais, Interbus, and AST are three of the bigger operators, but there are lots more.

Renting a car

Due to the limitations of the public transit network here, I basically always recommend that anyone planning a trip covering large parts of the island should rent a car. Having a car will give you far more flexibility in terms of where you go and it will free you up from the limited timetables that the trains and buses offer.

Moreover, very few of Sicily’s splendid natural areas are reachable by public transit, so if you want to head out from the cities, a car is your only option.

To check rental car prices and make a reservation, I recommend using DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.

Check car rental prices on DiscoverCars!

Itinerary overview

Considering that we’re covering almost the entire island with this itinerary, I want to be clear that you cannot stay in only one or two bases if you want to see and do everything I’ve planned out below. Sicily is big and its star attractions are fairly dispersed, so my plan for you here is squarely road trip territory, meaning that you’re going to have to stay somewhere new every night or two.

Here’s what I’ve put together for you:

Day 1: Spend the morning and afternoon exploring Palermo and then enjoy a sunset swim in Mondello.

Day 2: A day trip out to lovely seaside Cefalù.

Days 3: Visit the village of Scopello in the morning, check out the Zingaro Nature Reserve in the afternoon, and end the day in the fairytale town of Erice.

Day 4: A quick trip over to Marsala to see the salt pans and ruins on the Island of Mozia, followed by a visit to the incredible archaeological site of Selinunte. End the day in the thermal spa town of Sciacca.

Day 5: Visit the little-known greek site of Eraclea Minoa, hit the beach in the Torre Salsa Nature Reserve, check out the Scala dei Turchi cliffs, and spend an evening in Agrigento.

Day 6: Pay a morning visit to the Valley of the Temples and then make your way east to the Val di Noto, stopping along the way at the impressive Donnafugata Castle. You’ll end the day in Ragusa.

Days 7: Spend the first part of the morning touring Modica, followed by a quick visit to the impressive gorge of Cava d’Ispica. Grab lunch in the fishing village of Marzamemi and then spend the rest of the day in the Vendicari nature reserve. Make your way to Syracuse for the evening.

Day 8: Explore Syracuse and Ortigia, including a boat ride on Cyane River and swim at Cala Rossa beach.

Day 9: Dedicate the better part of the day to exploring Mount Etna, and finish up with an evening in Taormina.

Day 10: Spend your final day in Sicily in Catania, also known as the Black City for its distinctive black buildings built from volcanic stone.

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Day 1 – Palermo

Palermo, Sicily’s capital city, is a lively metropolis of 700,000 inhabitants and it’s a place of stark contrasts. With just a day here, you’ll explore the center, discovering its artistic beauties and bustling daily life, before driving out to Monte Pellegrino, which offers a great view over the city.

End the day relaxing at the charming seaside resort of Mondello, which is essentially a suburb of Palermo.

Morning

A walk through the city center down Via Vittorio Emanuele

Start your day by exploring Palermo’s historic center and its Arab-Norman heritage. A great plan is to stroll along Via Vittorio Emanuele, an old street also called Càssaro. Starting from the Royal Palace, you’ll have a 1-mile stretch of road that is filled with fantastic sights.

Palazzo dei Normanni & Palatine Chapel

Your first stop is the Palazzo dei Normanni, which was built as a royal palace under the Norman rule of Sicily. An absolutely incredible building, it now hosts the Sicilian Parliament and offers visitors the chance to marvel at its Palatine Chapel, covered in golden mosaics.

You can visit on your own or as part of a guided tour, and should expect to spend around 1.5 hours here either way.

The Villa Bonnano park/gardens directly in front of the palace are also a nice and relaxing place to stroll or have a seat in the shade.

*The inner courtyard of the Norman Palace. Photo:* *Holger Uwe Schmitt*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*The Palatine Chapel. Photo:* *Holger Uwe Schmitt*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original*

Cathedral of Palermo & Quattro Canti

From the palace, begin walking down Via Vittorio Emanuele (downtown Palermo’s most famous street) and stop when you reach the incredible and monumental Cathedral of Palermo. You can climb up to the roof, which affords an excellent view of the city center.

From the Cathedral, it’s just a couple of minutes to the Baroque Piazza Vigliena, also known as Quattro Canti, because it is the spot where all four ancient quarters of the city center intersect.

Here, you’ll be beside the Piazza della Vergogna (Square of Shame) which is famous for its ornate Fontana Pretoria, a 16th century fountain with ornate designes and naked statues of mythological figures.

*The Duomo (Cathedral) of Palermo. Photo:* *Kiban*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Piazza della Vergogna and the Pretoria Fountain. Photo:* *Bjs, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Piazza Bellini

In the nearby Piazza Bellini, you can tour some of Palermo’s finest churches, each of which are quite distinct:

Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (or La Martorana) has opulent Baroque interiors
San Cataldo, an austere Arab-Norman church with impressive red domes
Santa Caterina boasts a pleasant cloister garden, incredibly ornate interiors, and it’s here that you can try the best cannolo of your life - prepared by the nuns

Chiesa del Gesù

Not far away, the Chiesa del Gesù, also known as Casa Professa, may be Palermo’s most symbolic Baroque building. A bombing raid in 1943 partially destroyed the structure, but it still retains much of its splendor. The marble walls are incredible, and the painting on the ceiling, showing a stairway connecting heaven and hell, is exquisite.

Afternoon

Lunch at Vucciria street market (or Ballarò)

It should be lunchtime by this point, so stop in at the Vucciria street market, about 5 minutes walking from Piazza Bellini. This is one of the best places in the city to sample Palermo’s street food, especially sfincione (a spongy bread topped with tomatoes, onions, anchovies, and oregano), pane e panelle (chickpea fritters held in a sesame-seed bun), and pani ca meusa (a spleen sandwich much loved by locals).

Alternatively, you could opt instead to eat at the Ballarò market, which is bigger, a little more “authentic”, and much more hectic. It’s right next to the Church, so you can check it out even if you decide to eat at Vucciria instead.

A stroll through Kalsa and visit to the Botanical Gardens

After lunch, take a relaxing break at the Botanical Gardens, just 15 minutes away from the market. Designed in the late 1700’s by Léon Dufourny, the gardens now hold over 12,000 species of plants.

To reach them, you’ll cross the historic Kalsa neighborhood, which is the heart of Palermo’s nightlife, and is filled with street art. It’s a very popular neighborhood for both locals and visitors nowadays and is very interesting to explore. So give yourself some time to wander down side streets and check out the neighborhood.

On your way to the gardens you’ll also stumble upon a fascinating unfinished 16th-century church called Santa Maria dello Spasimo.

*A statue outside the Winter Garden in the Orto Botanico. Photo:* *tato grasso*, *CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped*

Take a taxi up to Monte Pellegrino

After touring the gardens, it’s time to head up Monte Pellegrino, a “mountain” that rises straight above Palermo to its west and offers fantastic city views. There are public buses that regularly run the route, and there’s also an 8-kilometer trail, called the pilgrim’s path, that will take you up there, but given that I have you heading on to Mondello next, you’d lose a lot of time if hiking or relying on public transit.

So, hire a taxi driver (or drive if you’ll have a car) to bring you up there and wait while you enjoy the views. Be sure to make a quick visit to the Saint Rosalia chapel in the grotto as well.

*Looking out over Palermo from Monte Pellegrino. Photo:* *Radek Kucharski*, *CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Evening

An evening swim and dinner in Mondello

Finally, there’s no better way spend the late afternoon/early evening than with a visit to Mondello, a charming seaside resort that’s around 25 minutes from Monte Pellegrino.

Here, you can enjoy an end-of-day dip into the turquoise sea that laps at the long crescent-shaped and white sand beach. The town is also full of restaurants, so you can stay here for dinner if you enjoy the atmosphere. Badalamenti Cucina e Bottega is always a great choice.

*Mondello seen from Monte Pellegrino. Photo:* *Andrea Calcagno from PALERMO, Italia*, *CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

A night out in Palermo

Once you’ve made your way back to Palermo (there are regular buses or you can hire a taxi), if you’re still feeling energetic and want to experience an evening out, head to Piazza Olivella, which is full of bars with live music.

The square is right next to the Teatro Massimo, Palermo’s 19th century opera house which is the largest in Italy. Be sure to go check it out.

Alternatively, return to Kalsa, which is always busy in the evenings.

*The Teatro Massimo opera house, near Piazza Olivella*

Overnight in Palermo

Bastione Spasimo Boutique Hotel - You can usually find a room for €170 per night
Porta di Castro Boutique Hotel - A double room costs about €180

Day 2 – Cefalù & Monreale

In the morning, take a quick train ride out to the seaside village of Cefalù. Enjoy touring the compact historic center, and then spend a couple of hours lounging at the town's good beach.

In the afternoon, return to Palermo and choose between either seeing more of the city or hopping a bus (or taxi) out to Monreale to see its stunning cathedral

*Picturesque seaside Cefalù, with La Rocca rising up behind town*

Morning

Cefalù city center

After a good breakfast, head over to the train station and catch a train to Cefalù, about 1 hour away.

This gorgeous coastal town sits between the sea and a huge towering stone massif, and offers a long sandy beach that’s perfect for lounging on for a few hours. So hit the beach first and whenever you’re ready to start exploring, head into town.

Start your city tour by discovering the fantastic cathedral, a UNESCO-listed Arab-Norman jewel dating back to 1131. Make sure to head inside, as the interior is covered in mosaics. From here, continue your stroll through the narrow lanes until you reach the Lavatoio, a medieval washhouse built over a small stream.

After, stop in at the Museo Madralisca to admire the Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina.

Cefalù's center is small, so after the museum just take a walk and enjoy it, with no particular destination in mind.

La Rocca hill and viewpoint

If it's not too hot, also head up to La Rocca, the giant massif looming over the town, and go for a hike up it. The round trip is about 3.5 kilometers and while it’s steep, it isn’t very difficult. On your way up, you’ll see the remains of the Temple of Diana (dating back to Sicanian-Greek times) and a Norman castle at the very top.

Beach time & lunch

Cefalù's city beach is a lovely stretch of golden sand just a few minutes’ walk from the historic center. You have beach clubs, little bars, and lots of restaurants lining the waterfront.

I'd recommend having a swim, grabbing lunch, and then having another swim!

At lunch, you must try the local pasta a taianu, a pasta dish served in an earthenware pot and seasoned with fried aubergines, meat, pine nuts, pecorino cheese, and raisins. Every trattoria in town serves it, but the best spot is Tinchitè.

*Cefalù seen from atop the La Rocca hill and viewpoint*

Afternoon & Evening

Wander Palermo or visit Monreale and its cathedral

Once you're ready to leave Cefalù, head back to Palermo on the train.

If you went swimming, I'd obviously recommend a stop back at your hotel to rinse off and freshen up for the rest of the afternoon and evening.

For the rest of the day, you have two good options:

You could spend more time exploring Palermo - check out the neighborhoods of Albergheria, Ballarò, Politeama-Libertà and the marina, or visit a museum of two.
Grab a bus and head out to the nearby town of Monreale, which sits on a hill above Palermo. The town is cute, but the main reason to visit is the Duomo di Monreale, whose interior contains some of the most beautiful works of art of any church in Sicily.
If you opt to visit, give yourself at least 1-hour at the church (more is better) and budget 30 minutes each way for the bus ride. You can also take a taxi if the bus schedule doesn't line up with your plans.

End the day with a good dinner in Palermo, perhaps overlooking the marina.

*Monreale Cathedral. Photo:* *Ludvig14*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Mosaics inside the Cathedral. Photo:* *Holger Uwe Schmitt*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Overnight in Palermo

See hotel recommendations from day 1 above.

Ditch the tourist traps and discover hidden gems and local secrets!

Connect with Gaetano in Palermo for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!

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Day 3 – Scopello, Zingaro nature reserve, and Erice

Leave Palermo today and head about an hour west to the seaside town of Scopello. Then continue on to the Zingaro nature reserve, above the Gulf of Castellammare. This is one of the loveliest spots in Sicily and it has great beaches and hiking trails which you should plan to spend the better part of the day enjoying.

In the early evening, move on to Erice, a perfectly preserved hilltop medieval village that overlooks the whole western coast of Sicily.

Morning & afternoon

Scopello

Leave Palermo in the direction of Scopello, driving along the SS187 road while enjoying the view over the Gulf of Castellammare. You’ll reach Scopello after about an hour of driving, and here you’ll be able to visit a fascinating seaside village hosting an old tuna fishery and an open-air museum.

Scopello is a lovely town with nice views over the faraglioni - rocks emerging from the sea -, but there isn’t much to actually do here, so expect to stay for no more than an hour.

Zingaro Nature Reserve

After visiting the town, head on to the Zingaro nature reserve, just a 5-minute drive away. This is a wonderful protected area that encompasses both mountains and sea and has some fantastic hiking, so expect to spend the rest of your morning and a good chunk of the afternoon in the reserve.

For a hike, I recommend the breathtaking 14-kilometer trail (out and back - 7km each way) that runs between Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo. The full hike takes 4-6 hours depending on how frequently you stop, and most of it is along a fairly flat gravel path. Along the way, you can stop to swim at various little enchanting coves.

Of those swimming spots, the following are not to be missed: Cala dell’Uzzo, Cala Marinella, and Cala Capreria.

If you’ve brought your own lunch today, you can enjoy a picnic inside the reserve, eating in one of your favorite coves or at one of the two picnic areas (at Cala Tonnarella dell'Uzzo and Cala Capreria), which are equipped with benches and tables in the shade of a local cannucciato, a kind of a canopy made of woven reeds.

*Another of the reserve’s incredible beaches. Photo:* *René Bongard*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Evening

The fairytale town of Erice

Take your time relaxing in the shade of the trees after lunch, then hop back in the car and continue on to Erice, about 50 minutes away. This fairytale medieval village is wonderfully preserved atop Monte San Giuliano and offers breathtaking views over Trapani and the coast.

A couple of hours here will allow you to pretty fully explore its cobbled alleyways, old defensive walls, and Norman castle carved into the rock and built on a former Temple of Venus. For a great panoramic view, head to the Spanish Quarter, an unfinished fort built on a rocky spur.

And be sure not to miss the Real Duomo, a church dating back to the 14th century, and the nearby Torre di Federico (you can also climb it).

Whenever you feel like a snack, refuel by stopping at Pasticceria Grammatico, a pastry shop renowned for its almond pastries. Taste them accompanied by a local liqueur called Monte Erice.

At sunset, head to the Giardino del Balio, just beyond the castle, to watch the sun dip into the sea while looking out over the Tyrrhenian coast above San Vito lo Capo, the salt pans near Trapani, and the Egadi Islands.

For dinner grab a table at Archi di San Carlo restaurant - one of the best in the area!

Overnight in Erice

Il Carmine Dimora Storica - a former monastery right by the town walls with very pleasant rooms. $100 USD
Residence Erice Pietre Antiche - a good choice if you prefer private apartments to hotels. $100 USD.

Day 4 – Marsala Saltpans, Selinunte, and Sciacca

Descend from hilltop Erice, today you’ll drive along the Salt Road to the Marsala salt pans where you can see sea salt being processed in the Stagnone Lagoon. Take a boat over to the island of Mothia, once a Punic settlement, and then visit the historic Florio winery in Marsala.

Later in the afternoon, pay a visit to the archaeological site of Selinunte, and then end the day in seaside Sciacca, an ancient thermal resort town.

Morning

Stagnone Lagoon and Marsala Salt pans

Just a little under an hour away from Erice are the Marsala salt pans, part of the so-called “Salt Road”, a stretch of coast along the Stagnone lagoon that is dotted with windmills and saltwater pools. On sunny days, the pools glint in the sun and change color from yellow to rosy shades of pink.

There are walking and cycling paths within the lagoon and you can visit some of the processing facilities to learn about the history and modern day salt production here. Most visitors should expect to spend around an hour, although that could be longer depending on how far you want to walk/cycle on the path.

Mozia and its ruins

Next, catch a ferry over to the nearby island of Mozia (also sometimes called Motya or Mothia, in English), the nearest among the Stagnone islands and a former Punic settlement dating back to the 8th century.

The island contains the ruins of a Phoenician city destroyed by Greek Syracuse in 397 BC, has a small but interesting museum, and a footpath that fully encircles it. Figure that you'll want about 2 hours to visit.

If you're not interested in archaeology, you can skip it and head straight to Marsala's city center.

*The North Gate on the island of Motya. Photo:* *Rjdeadly*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Afternoon

Marsala town center

Now it’s time to visit the town of Marsala, which although often largely overlooked by visitors, is actually quite pleasant and has a lovely Baroque center. You can see everything pretty quickly, so it also doesn’t add a lot of time.

Start off from Porta Garibaldi, and admire Renaissance and Baroque palaces, old monasteries, and ornate balconies. Stop at Piazza Loggia, visit the Duomo, then head to the Baglio Anselmi Archaeological Museum, which has an authentic Phoenician ship on display.

End your tour by stopping in at the historic Florio winery to taste the local wine which is fortified with a dose of brandy. You can join a wine-tasting experience by pairing it with some traditional dishes such as busiate alla trapanese, pasta c’anciova (pasta with sardines), or a delicious couscous.

*Marsala’s Duomo. Photo:* *trolvag*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Archaeological site of Selinunte

After delighting your palate on local wine and specialties, it’s time to delight your eyes: head to Selinunte to discover the magnificent seaside Greek temples at the largest archaeological park in Europe, extending 270 hectares over three hills.

About an hour from Marsala, it includes temples, an acropolis, and a necropolis. Being such an extensive site, a comprehensive visit will take around 3 hours, but you can do it in less time if you’re mostly just there to see some impressive ruins and views.

*Selinunte archaeological site, with the Temple of Hera in the distance*

Evening

Onward to Sciacca

From Selinunte, the town of Sciacca is only half an hour’s drive away, and it’s the perfect place to end the day, as it’s a charming coastal town and will also cut down on your drive tomorrow morning to Agrigento/the Valley of the Temples.

A thermal resort town since the 5th century, there’s also lot of history here. Strolling along the town’s streets, you’ll discover Renaissance palaces, old churches, an imposing cathedral, and an amazing view over the coast from Piazza Scandaliato.

Treat yourself to some shopping here this evening as the town is known for its handmade pottery and coral jewelry.

*Sciacca. Photo:* *Ludvig14*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Overnight in Sciacca

Day 5: Eraclea Minoa, Torre Salsa Nature Reserve, Scala dei Turchi, Agrigento

Start you morning with a visit to a little-visited Greek archaeological at Eraclea Minoa, and then spend a couple of hours out in nature, enjoying the wild Torre Salsa Nature.

In the afternoon, you’ll visit the iconic Scala dei Turchi cliffs before continuing on to the city of Agrigento for a bit of sightseeing.

Finally, end the day with a seaside aperitivo in the resort town of San Leone.

Morning

Eraclea Minoa

I know that you already saw a great archaeological site yesterday (and will be seeing another incredible one tomorrow - the Valley of the Temples), but even so, I strongly recommend a visit to Eraclea Minoa.

A legendary Greek city, it was supposedly founded by the Cretan King Minos, and the archeological site sits on a rocky spur overlooking the sea and a golden beach backed by impressive cliffs.

The views are incredible, the ruins are nice enough, and it’s a bit off most people’s radar so you’ll see a fraction of the crowds of other sites. This is especially true if you visit first thing in the morning as I’ve recommended.

All in all, expect to spend around 30 minutes here. Or, if you're really not interested in archaeology, just skip it and head straight to the beaches of the Torre Salsa Nature reserve.

*The view from Eraclea Minoa. Photo: ©* *José Luiz Bernardes Ribeiro* / *CC BY-SA 4.0*

Torre Salsa Nature Reserve

Around 10 kilometers away from the archaeological site is the Torre Salsa nature reserve, which offers dunes, wetlands, great birdwatching, and white stone cliffs that drop straight into turquoise waters. The reserve is also home to Sicily’s wildest beach, and a mid-morning swim there is simply unbeatable.

There are some good hiking paths here too, so you can easily spend a couple of hours swimming, lounging, and trekking around. Just be aware that there are no facilities in the reserve.

*A beach in the Torre Salsa Nature Reserve. Photo:* *Fonsi51*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Afternoon

Scala dei Turchi and Realmonte

Only about 15 minutes from the nature reserve is the little seaside town of Realmonte, which sits above the dramatic and iconic Scala dei Turchi cliff. The town itself doesn’t have much to offer, but if you’re hungry you could grab lunch there before visiting the cliffs and nearby beaches. There are also some little restaurants along the beaches here, so you can dine al fresco if you prefer.

It should be around midday by the time you get there, and when the heat of the afternoon Sicilian sun hits hard, there’s nothing better than a dip in those turquoise waters to cool off. The Scala dei Turchi (Stair of the Turks) and its namesake beach are of course the most popular, but you also have other good ones nearby: Giallonardo, Capo Rossello, etc.

So enjoy the incredible views of the cliffs, take a swim and lounge on the beach for a bit, and then continue on.

*The Scala dei Turchi. Photo:* *Sweetie candykim, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Agrigento

After leaving the reserve, head to Agrigento, where you'll be spending the night.

Check into your hotel, have a shower and rest, and then venture out to see the city cetner. Agrigento is entirely overshadowed by the Valley of The Temples archaeological site, and most visitors spend almost no time here, merely driving by on their to the temples. That's a shame because it’s actually quite pleasant and has a nice historic core.

Stroll along the central Via Atenea which is lined by bars, shops, and restaurants, and then wander down the little alleys that branch off from it. As you meander, you'll pass by noble palaces, small churches, and the impressive 11th-century cathedral with its painted wooden ceiling.

If you're in the mood for a snack, head to the Monastero di Santo Spirito, a Cistercian convent, dating back to the 13th century. It hosts stucco artworks by Giacomo Serpotta, but I usually visit to try the delicious sweet couscous prepared by the convent's nuns, who are formidable pastry chefs.

*Agrigento seen from the Tempio della Concordia in the Valley of the Temples. Photo:* *Codex*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Evening

A sunset aperitivo in San Leone

At sunset, drive out to San Leone, a seaside resort 6 km from Agrigento. Here, you can join the locals for an end of day tradition: sipping an aperitif on the beach. You can also get some tasty bites at any of the bars. Just order an “aperitivo rinforzato”, which is a drink accompanied by a bunch of appetizers such as cheeses, bread, olives, and cured meats.

An affordable dinner option which often has live music is Oceanomare.

Bring your bathing suit in case you feel like an evening swim!

After dinner, return to Agrigento. This is a real city, so there’ll be plenty going on in the evening if you want to explore more or grab a nightcap.

*Looking out at the coastal town of San Leone. Photo:* *trolvag*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped*

Overnight in Agrigento

Terrazze di Montelusa - hosted in an old palace with original furniture. It also has lovely terraces with nice views. $100-$150 per night.
Locanda degli Scrittori - a lovely choice if you prefer quieter accommodation. Rooms are housed in a modern country house surrounded by a lush garden. $100-$150 per night.

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Day 6: Valley of the Temples, Donnafugata Castle, Ragusa

Spend your morning at the Valley of the Temples before making the long drive (2.5 hour) east to the Val di Noto, a patch of land in the Hyblean hills that is home to the late-Baroque cities of Ragusa Ibla, Modica, Scicli, and Noto.

On your way, sop off at the palatial Donnafugata Castle.

Morning

Valley of the Temples

The Valley of the Temples, once the heart of the Greek Akragas, is now a UNESCO-listed archeological site and it holds the best-preserved Greek temples outside of Greece. It sits right below Agrigento, so is easily accessible from the city, and being one of the most famous sites in Sicily, you should come early in the morning to avoid the crowds and the heat.

Visits here typically take about 4 hours as the site is enormous and you’ll walk about 4 or 5 kilometers if you want to see everything.

Start your tour from the eastern entrance (Porta Giunone), from where the path is downhill. Discover the Hera Temple and the Temple of Concordia, then continue west along the path running among olive trees and archeological treasures such as the ruins of the temple of Hercules and Zeus and the Demeter and Kore sanctuary.

At the end of the path, enter the Giardino della Kolymbetra, a valley dug as a pool to ensure water supply to the city in antiquity, but which is now a lush garden hosting 300 species of plants.

Afternoon

Donnafugata Castle

Ultimately, you’re heading on to Modica today, but about 2 hours into the drive I think you should stop off at Donnafugata castle, which is right on the route. This is a 14th-century palace rebuilt in the 19th century, blending many architectural styles. Do not miss castle’s park, which houses a very neat labyrinth.

Ragusa

When you’ve finished exploring the castle, it’s time to continue on another 20 minutes to Ragusa, where you’ll be spending the night. Here, spend the majority of the time exploring the old town, called Ibla, whose ancient lanes hide many treasures: Baroque palaces, old churches, tiny courtyards with unexpected wrought-iron balconies.

Stop at the imposing cathedral of San Giorgio, a Baroque masterpiece. Some scenes of the TV series Inspector Montalbano were shot here. In the same piazza, you’ll see the noble Palazzo Arezzo di Trefiletti, the charming Donnafugata theater, and a mid-1800 aristocrats’ club called Circolo di Conversazione. Expect to spend 2 hours meandering around Ibla.

*Donnafugata Castle. Photo:* *Madmax72*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Evening

Dinner and a wander through Ragusa’s two halves

I’d suggest having dinner at the family-run trattoria Cucina e Vino. Afterwards, take an evening stroll along the steps that connect Ragusa Ibla and Ragusa Superiore (the modern city): you will enjoy stunning views over the old town all lit up with the yellowish glow of the street lamps.

Overnight in Ragusa

L’Orto Sul Tetto - near the church of Saint Giorgio. On the top floor, you can enjoy a beautiful patio between vines and lemon trees. A double room costs about €100.
Locanda Don Serafino - set in a restored 19th-century palace with a modern spin. It has an on-site two-star Michelin restaurant. A room for two is about €180.

Day 7 – Modica, Marzamemi, and Vendicari nature reserve

Start the day with a visit to Modica, one of the other wonderful Baroque towns of the Val di Noto.

Then head to the nearby Cava d’Ispica gorge, followed by the fishing village of Marzamemi.

From there, enjoy a leisurely afternoon in the pristine Vendicari nature reserve, where you can hike the trails, see migrating flamingoes, and swim in the crystal clear waters.

In the evening, continue to Siracusa, where you’ll spend the night.

Morning

Modica

Your first stop today is the Baroque city of Modica, a city on built on a steep gorge and split into two halves: Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. The city is about a 25-minute drive from Ragusa.

Start your visit in Modica Bassa, the lower and newer part of town, where you’ll find a few nice sights like the noble palace Palazzo Leva, Palazzo della Cultura, and Palazzo Polara, which is among the filming locations of the popular Italian tv series Inspector Montalbano.

From there, meander upwards to and through Modica Alta until you reach the Duomo of Santo Giorgio. You’ll have a splendid view from the church.

Take plenty of time to just wander around aimlessly enjoying the atmosphere and narrow little streets, but be sure to stop in at some point to the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, a pastry shop offering local chocolate made the Aztec way, dating back to Spanish rule.

Other sights to check out are the house of Salvatore Quasimodo, a Noble Prize winner, and the miniscule 12th-century church of San Nicolò Inferiore, which is impressively carved into the rocks. You can also get some more incredible views from the church of San Giovanni Evangelista, located high up above town.

The town is lovely but rather small, and most people should expect to spend around 2-3 hours visiting it.

Marzamemi fishing village with a stop at Cava d’Ispica gorge

From Modica head to the coastal village of Marzamemi, but be sure to stop at Cava d’Ispica gorge on your way. It's a prehistoric cave system that has been inhabited since 2000 BC and was once used as Christian tombs and then medieval dwellings.

A 13 km path runs along the gorge, but you don't have time for it, so I'd recommend just a quick walk to enjoy the impressive views before returning to the car park.

Next, make your way to Marzamemi, a fishing village about 35 km from Cava d’Ispica. Enjoy a gelato in the town’s beautiful piazza, flanked by former fishermen's houses, an old tuna fishery, two tiny churches, and a 17th-century noble palace.

The water is lovely here, so you can go for swim while in town, or wait until your next stop, the Vendicari Nature Reserve. You should expect to spend the entire afternoon exploring the reserve, and since there are no restaurants or services inside it, I’d suggest ordering a takeaway lunch in Marzamemi and picnicking on the beach.

Your best bet for grabbing lunch is Liccamuciula, right in the town’s main square.

*Cava d’Ispica. Photo:* *Cypher84 at it.wikipedia*, *CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Marzamemi. Photo:* *fotovideomike from Italia (Michele Ponzio, @michele_ponzio)*, *CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Afternoon

Vendicari Nature Reserve

Just 20 minutes away from Marzamemi is the Vendicari Nature Preserve, a protected area that’s criss-crossed by three walking paths which will take you to ancient Greek ruins, a Swabian tower, a Byzantine church, and an old tuna fishery. The reserve covers 7 km of the coast, offering white sandy beaches and an emerald sea all throughout.

The most popular beaches are Marianeddi, Calamosche, and San Lorenzo, but there are plenty of other ones to choose from. You can also spot flamingos in the wetlands here.

Evening

Dinner and an evening stroll through Syracuse/Ortigia

Your final stop tonight is Syracuse, about 40 minutes away from Vendicari. Settle in to your accommodation and then enjoy an evening stroll through the tiny streets of Ortigia, the adjacent island. For dinner, I’d suggest A Putia delle cose buone.

Overnight in Siracusa/Ortigia

Alla Giudecca - a restored 15th-century building located right above an ancient Jewish ritual bath that you can visit. About €130.
Caportigia Boutique Hotel - actually in Syracuse and not Ortigia, this is a good option if you have a car and want to be able to park nearby. €150 per night.
Grand Hotel Ortigia - an Ortigia institution since 1890. Old world style prevails with inlaid wood, plush furniture, and grand design. From €250+ per night.

Day 8 – Siracusa and Ortigia

The first stop on any visit to Siracusa is the incredible Neapolis Archaeological park, but there’s no doubt that lovely ancient Ortigia, with its Baroque Cathedral and Arethusa Spring, will be the star of the day. In the afternoon take a boat trip, either to see the Papyrus plants in the Cyane river, or along the coast to discover the nearby caves.

Morning

Neapolis archaeoligical site

As you may have already discovered, there are really two Siracusas: the mainland, where you’ll find the Neapolis archaeological site, and the small island of Ortigia, full of Baroque palaces and churches. Today, you’ll explore both of them.

Start your day at the Neapolis, which has a Roman amphitheater, an ancient quarry named Latomia del Paradiso, the Eurialo castle, and the so-called Orecchio di Dionisio, an ear-shaped cave that amplifies even the tiniest noises. A complete tour takes about 90 minutes and it really is best to visit with a guide, as they’ll add so much history and background for you.

Absolutely do not skip the majestic Greek theatre dating back to the 5th century BC, which still hosts classical plays from May through early July. You can check the schedule and buy a ticket here (or on-site). About 500 meters from the archeological park is the Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum, which is also worth a visit.

Ortigia

From the museum, make your way to Ortigia, a 10-minute drive from the archeological site (while it’s an island, it’s connected to the mainland by two bridges).

Dive into Ortigia’s labyrinth, getting lost among its narrow streets lined by centuries-old palaces, Baroque churches, and two ancient temples: the Doric temple of Apollo and the former temple of Atena, now a stunning Baroque church that was built over it. On the same piazza, admire the Palazzo Arciverscovile and Palazzo Vermexio (now town hall).

Continue your stroll and reach the Fonte Aretusa (Aretusa Spring), linked to the legend of a nymph transformed into a spring by the goddess Diana to save her from an unwanted lover. From there, walk along the road encircling the island to the 13th-century Castello Maniace.

When you get hungry, I’d suggest grabbing lunch at Caseificio Borderi.

Afternoon

Boat ride on the Cyane River and Cala Rossa beach

For something quite different this afternoon, hop on a boat (there are many departing throughout the day) to enjoy an hour-long cruise on the Cyane river, where wild papyrus still grows.

Instead, or in addition, you can also take a boat trip along the coastline to discover the caves around the city. These coastal tours are a bit longer, around 2 hours, and there will be stops where you can jump in for a swim.

After the boat rides, wind down the afternoon relaxing on the little crescent beach of Cala Rossa, right under the city walls.

You can also attend a performance at the puppet theatre, where they enact old French medieval poems, a rich Sicilian tradition well worth discovering.

*A stretch along the Cyane River. Photo:* *Marco Brunetti, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Spiaggia Cala Rossa in Ortigia. Photo:* *Davide Mauro*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Evening

Sunset drinks by the sea and dinner in Syracuse

At sunset, stop at the Lungomare Alfeo (on the western side of the island) to sip a drink while watching the sun setting on the Cyane river. For dinner, I’d suggest Sicilia in tavola.

Overnight in Siracusa

See hotel recommendations from day 8 above.

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Day 9 – Mount Etna and Taormina

Today, the better part of your day will be spent exploring Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe. After, stop in the town of Solicchiata to sample local wine grown in the volcanic soil. Then spend the evening in glorious Taormina.

Morning & afternoon

Mount Etna excursion

Get a very early start today as you’re going to be spending the better part of the day climbing Etna, Europe’s highest and most active volcano, and a UNESCO site since 2013. It (or she, as the volcano is definitively female for locals) offers a wide variety of landscapes: desert volcanic areas, lush forests, and caves, along with a host of biking and walking paths.

Just remember that scaling and walking the upper craters is only permitted if accompanied by a licensed local guide.

Here’s what I’d suggest: from Siracusa, drive two hours to the Piano Provenzana touristic area, standing 1,800 meters above sea level. Leave your car in the parking lot and hike along the path leading to the observatory overlooking Valle del Leone, at 2,900 meters. The path is only 2.5 km each way, but it’s quite steep.

If you don’t want to hike, you can also reach the summit by hopping in a 4x4 vehicle departing from Piano Provenzana. Those tours take about 90 minutes, stopping along the way to see secondary old craters.

After your climb up, explore some stunning caves created by ancient lava flows. The Grotta dei Lamponi (raspberry cave) is one of the longest. You can reach it by taking the well-marked Monte Nero path which runs across a pretty beech tree forest. The walk out and back takes about 4 hours and you can hire a guide at Piano Provenzana to get there if you want.

You should either pack a lunch today and eat while exploring, or you can sit down for a decent meal at Rifugio Ragabo, 10 minutes from Piano Provenzana.

*A cabin and crater on the southern side of the Volcano. Photo:* *Wilson44691, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Evening

Taormina

Whenever you’ve finished exploring Etna, continue on to Taormina, about an hour away. On the way there, stop in the town of Solicchiata, which is full of wineries where you can sample the local wine grown in volcanic soil.

Once in Taormina, prepare to enjoy a bit of the Sicilian Dolce Vita (sweet life). Founded by the Greeks and perched on slopes high above the sea, Taormina has been a popular resort and beloved by the world’s rich and famous for centuries.

Stroll along the pedestrian Corso Umberto (1.5 km long) flanked by boutiques, artisan shops, the small church of Santa Caterina built on a former temple, medieval palaces such as the beautiful Palazzo Corvaja, and the medieval Duomo.

Stop at Piazza IX Aprile to enjoy a great view over the Ionian Sea, then reach the 3rd-century BC Greek theater. In summer, it still hosts concerts and performances (take a look at the schedule).

*Piazza IX Aprile in the center of Taormina*

Sunset views from Castelmola

At sunset, drive to the medieval village of Castelmola, just a few kilometers above Taormina. Grab a seat on a terrace and sip the local almond wine while looking over the sea and watching the sun set behind Mount Etna.

Back in Taormina, end your day attending a performance at the Greek theater, or strolling along tiny secondary streets and enjoying the bustling nightlife. Have dinner at Osteria Rosso DiVino.

*Looking down on Taormina from Castelmola*

Overnight in Taormina

Villa Mabel - a pleasant hotel housed in an Art Nouveau building (rooms from $80).
Taodomus Hotel - chic but casual and rooms cost around $250 per night.
Hotel Villa Ducale - boutique, intimate, and offering many of the benefits of some of the more famous luxury properties, it does so at more reasonable rates ($350).

Day 10 – Catania

End your trip with a full-day visit to Catania, the main city in eastern Sicily. Known as the Black City due to its distinctively dark lave-stone construction, Catania has quite a lot to offer.

Morning

A tour of Baroque Catania

On your final day in Sicily, it’s time to visit our second city: Catania. About an hour from Taormina, this is an exciting and busy city that is constantly reinventing itself. Lying under the volcano, it’s been destroyed several times over the centuries, and after the earthquake of 1693, it was razed to the ground, only to be rebuilt in Baroque style.

Walking through its Baroque center will take a couple of hours. Start from Piazza Duomo housing the Liotru fountain (more widely known as the Fontana del’Elefante), a symbol of the city, and the cathedral which was rebuilt over a former Norman church. Next to it is the church of Sant’Agata alla Badia, which you can climb up to enjoy great views over the city.

Continue along Via Etnea to admire Palazzo Sangiuliano, Palazzo Università, and the intersection called Quattro Canti, lined by noble palaces. Then, head to Via Crociferi to discover a stunning sequence of Baroque churches and monasteries.

End your morning by visiting the Benedictine monastery, dating back to the 16th century. It was reconstructed in Baroque style with stunning ornate balconies adorned with grotesque masks. There are 90-minute guided tours of the building, covering frescoed rooms, a monumental staircase decorated with stucco artwork, two cloisters, and a garden built atop hardened lava.

*Piazza del Duomo in Catania. Photo:* *Luca Aless*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Afternoon

Lunch at the Piscaria and a visit to Palazzo Biscari

For lunch, stop at the Piscaria, the bustling fish market that is full of tiny restaurants. Here, the kiosk Scirocco offers delicious freshly fried fish and is always a safe bet.

After filling your belly, reach Palazzo Biscari, a noble palace still inhabited by the Prince’s heirs, which you can visit to tour the elegant rooms and majestic Rococo ballroom.

Exploring Roman Catania

Dedicate the rest of the afternoon to discovering Roman Catania. Start from the Roman theater dating back to the 2nd century AD. Next to it is a smaller Odeon, used to host musical performances in antiquity.

A short distance away is the so-called Terme della Rotonda, ruins of the Roman baths over which a Byzantine church was built. In Piazza Stesicoro, you can admire the ruins of a huge Roman Amphitheatre.

As the late afternoon sets in, end your day strolling around the pleasant Villa Bellini, the city’s park dedicated to the composer Vincenzo Bellini.

*Catania’s Roman theater. Photo:* *User:Matthias Süßen*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Evening

Rooftop views, dinner, and a lively night out

At sunset, book a table at the rooftop bar Ostello degli Elefanti, whose terrace overlooks the city center, with Mount Etna looming in the distance.

Have dinner at Piazza Scammacca, then set off for an evening on the town, joining Catania’s energetic nightlife in the streets around Teatro Massimo Bellini.

Overnight in Catania

Liberty Hotel - delightfully old world with a very Art Nouveau style. Plush furniture, chandeliers, colorful bedding, and all that. Rooms from around €150 per night.
Palace Catania - a recently renovated larger hotel in a historic palazzo right on Via Etnea. Rooms are spacious, amenities are very good, and the rooftop has lovely views of Etna. Rates from €200.