A Local’s Guide to Travel in Sicily
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Sicily, in far southwestern Italy and sitting just off the tip of the "toe of the boot” (aka the region of Calabria!), is the largest island in Italy and the entire Mediterranean Sea. With over 5 million inhabitants, it is also the most populated. It is comprised of its principal island as well as a series of smaller islands and archipelagos – Ustica, Pantelleria, the Eolian islands, the Aegadian islands, the Pelagie islands (home to Lampedusa), etc.
Inhabited dating back at least 14,000 years and in a strategic position in the heart of the Mediterranean, Sicily has been at the crossroads of civilizatons for millennia. While the Phoenicians and the Greeks are often regarded as the initial civilizations to have formed colonies on the island (beginning around the 8th century BC), long before them three native peoples occupied these lands: the Siculi in the east; the Sicani in the center; and the Elimi in the west.
Following the Greeks and Phoenicians, many other civilizations have fought over Sicily: the Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Angevins, Aragonese, Bourbons… almost too many to name. Constantly changing hands and passing under different influences and cultures, Sicily was and remains an incredible melting pot.
Visitors to Sicily today can experience that history in abundance through our incredible archaeological sights, historic architecture, and even the language and cuisine.
But Sicily is about much more than the past and today, you’ll find busy cities, gorgeous Baroque towns, impressive mountains, pristine natural areas, some of the best beaches in Italy, fantastic wine, and an excellent, totally distinct cuisine. There's a lot to discover!
I can't possibly hope to cover a place like Sicily in just one single article, but I've done my best to cover the major topics that you'll be wondering about as you plan your trip.
So, settle in for a long read, and let's get to it!
Table of Contents
Where is Sicily?
Sicily lies right in the center of the Mediterranean Sea, about 100 miles northeast of Tunisia in northern Africa, and around 260 miles south of Rome (as the crow flies).
Located just off the toe of Italy’s “boot”, Sicily is separated from the southern region of Calabria, in mainland Italy, by the Strait of Messina, which is just under 2 miles wide at its narrowest point.
About 60 kilometers to Sicily’s south is the island nation of Malta.
A quick introduction to the island
Among travelers, Sicily is best known for Mount Etna, heavenly sandy beaches, Greek archaeological sites, the Baroque cities of the Val di Noto, and the fading splendor and urban chaos of Palermo. Oh, and our divine food and wine!
And Sicily certainly has all those things - and more!
Although people don't normally know this, the the island is predominantly hilly and even quite mountainous. Very little of it is actually flat. The interior of the islands is made up almost entirely of rolling hills, often by high peaks. There are even mountains on the coast, such as the Nebrodi and Madonie, and of course, volcanoes! Europe’s highest active volcano, Mount Etna, stands at 3,350 meters high, dominating the coast and horizon between Messina and Catania.
The largest cities, Palermo and Catania, are situated on opposite coasts (Palermo in the west; Catania in the east), and most of Sicily's cities and larger towns are also coastal. The interior is sparsely populated, with small, hilltop villages overlooking immense fields of golden wheat. If you're of Sicilian heritage, there's a pretty good chance that these are the villages of your ancestors.
Many of our hills and mountains are covered with magnificent forests, especially the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains, where you can enjoy spectacular hikes in unspoiled wilderness. Few people think of Sicily as a place for hiking and trekking, but there is a pretty good network of hiking and mountain biking trails.
And of course, we can't forget about the sea. Wherever you are in Sicily, you are never far from the coast. With over 600 miles of coastline, you'll find a delighttful mix of sandy beaches, nature reserves, shores made up of volcanic rocks, dramatic cliffs, and pebbly coves. And lots of fishing villages and coastal cities!
Located at the point where the Eurasian and African tectonic plates meet, volcanic terrain is a constant feature. Apart from Mount Etna, there are also a number of small volcanic islands encircling the main island, and impressive lava-formed rocky coastlines run around its perimeter. The landscapes here are unlike anywhere else in Italy.
Culturally, Sicily is also distinct. Having been colonized by so many civilizations and largely ruled by dynasties from beyond Italy, our cuisine, traditions, language, and architecture are unique to those on the mainland. Moreover, Sicily only became part of Italy in the mid-19th century, so it’s still relatively new that we are even part of Italy!
How to get here
By plane
The easiest way to reach Sicily is by plane. The island has four international airports, with two of them being the primary ones: Catania Fontanarossa Airport in the east and Palermo Falcone e Borsellino Airport in the west.
Two smaller airports, Trapani’s Birgi Airport and Comiso Pio La Torre Airport near to Ragusa, are your other options. The airport near Ragusa is by far the smallest of the 4 and has relatively few connections.
Palermo, Catania, and Trapani have direct connections with many cities throughout Italy and Europe.
For those coming from outside of Europe, with the exception of direct flights from New York's JFK airport to Palermo and Catania, there are no direct long-haul international flights to Sicily. Most visitors will need to make a connection in Rome, Milan, or somewhere else in Europe.
By ferry
For those coming from within Italy, you can also reach Sicily by ferry.
Palermo has ferry connections to Genova, Livorno, Rome’s Civitavecchia port, Naples, Malta, and Tunis (in Tunisia). Each of these ferries carries both passengers and cars. Depending on which city you depart out of, the journey takes between 10 to 14 hours.
From Villa San Giovanni in Calabria, the closest mainland port to Sicily, several ferries depart daily for the Sicilian city of Messina, just across the Strait of Messina from Calabria. The ride takes 20 minutes.
How long to spend
To get a good introduction to the island and see the major highlights, you need a minimum of one week in Sicily. To do a comprehensive islandwide trip, you really need 10-14 days. However, a week is enough to see a lot.
If you have less time, you can still visit, but you'll need to choose one part of the island and stay around there.
A week gives you enough time to do a very fast semi-islandwide trip. You'll be rushing, but it's doable.
Below I've given quick overviews for how to spend 7-14 days. You'll find more detailed itinerary ideas at the bottom of the article and in our 7-day Sicily itinerary and 10-day Sicily itinerary.
7 days
If you want to see a lot of the island, with 7 days you can explore Palermo, hit the Caribbean-like beach at San Vito Lo Capo, wander medieval Erice, gaze at Marsala's salt pants, see the Greek ruins at Valley of the Temples, stop at the Val di Noto's Baroque cities of Noto and Syracuse, and even squeeze in a visit to Taormina and Mount Etna.
Being honest, I consider that to be an overly ambitiout trip with 7 days. By trying to fit so much into just a week, you'll just spend all your time driving and rushing. Instead, I usually recommend that travelers with a week choose between visiting western or eastern Sicily, and then concentrate their whole trip in that region. It gives you time to actually enjoy where you are, go swimming, relax, and get a little off the beaten path.
10-14 days
With 10 days to two weeks, an island-wide trip becomes a real possibility. Of course, whether or not it's the right move for you depends on how fast you want to move, what you're interested in seeing, and how frequently you want to pack and unpack your bags.
Sicily is a big island and each of her coasts (and interior) offers plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of weeks, so you won't get bored if you choose to cover less ground. Also, you have lovely island chains like the Egadi and Aoelian, which each require 1-3 days to visit, so if those are on your bucketlist, you'll need to plan accordingly.
Especially for those who want to do outdoors activities, visit archaeological sights, spend a fair amount of time at the beach, and visit the interior or get off the beaten path, I always recommend trying to cover less terrain.
Places to visit
Because Sicily is so big, there's not much point giving a long list of "best places to visit” (although I've actually done that in my guide on where to go in Sicily).
Instead, below I've quickly divided the island up into its main regions, and given my favorite places to visit in each of them. This makes more sense, because you can look at what part of the island you'll be visiting and then think about what you could reasonably fit into your itinerary.
Western Sicily
When thinking about Western Sicily, I usually consider the area beginning at Cefalù and then running west to Marsala and then south to Agrigento. That whole area is what I consider "western Sicily".
Here, the main places of interest are:
Palermo, our capital city and the adjacent town of Monreale
Marsala and Trapani, two nice cities that are most famous for the salt pans/marshes that lie around them
The Greek ruins of Segesta, Selinunte, and Valley of the Temples
The Lo Zingaro nature reserve
The lovely seaside towns of San Vito lo Capo, Mondello, and Cefalù
The pretty hilltop towns of Erice and Castelbuono
The rugged Madonie mountains
The wonderful Egadi islands
Southeastern Sicily
Southeastern Sicily is essentially synonymous with the Val di Noto, an area made up of a number of towns and cities built in stunning late Baroque style. The region is actually comprises a fair deal more terrain than just the Val di Noto, but the major sites of touristic interest are mostly there.
The region begins to the south of Catania and runs more or less to Licata. Aside from gorgeous towns and cities, in my opinion this region is also home to Sicily's best sandy beaches.
These are the principle places of interest:
The stunning city of Syracuse, home to wonderful Greek ruins and a charming Baroque core
The Baroque towns of Noto, Ragusa, Modica, and Scicli
The protected Vendicari nature reserve with wonderful sandy beaches
Coastal Marzamemi, a pretty fishing village
Donnafugata castle
Eastern Sicily
By Eastern Sicily, I suppose I really mean northeastern Sicily. This is the area that runs from Catania north to Taormina and then west more or less to just before Cefalù.
This section of Sicily contains two of the island's primar tourist attractions - Mount Etna and Taormina - as well as its second largest city - Catania. Despite this, most of it actually relatively unvisited.
Here, these are the main places I think you should consider:
Catania, the second largest city in Sicily, is a bustling city and wonderful place to get a feel for authentic Sicilian life
Mount Etna really needs no introduction - every first trip to Sicily should make the time to visit
Taormina, an elegant and beautiful town home to one of the world's most impressive Greek theaters in a location that is simply stunning. It's very touristy, very expensive, and very nice!
Acitrezza and Acireale are two lovely seaside towns just north of Catania with good beaches and pleasant centers
Giardini Naxos is a picturesque and pleasant beach town just south of Taormina. It's a favorite place for boat trips
Messina is not a city that many people visit for its own charms, but it's a major port of call for cruise ships and also the main port for anyone crossing over to Sicily from Calabria and mainland Italy
The rugged Nebrodi mountains for hiking and outdoors activities
Inland Sicily
Sicily's rugged, dry, and sparsely populated interior is a place that very few visitors really spend any time in. The villages here are sleepy places whose younger inhabitants have, unfortunately, largely abandoned for better opportunities in the coastal cities, other parts of Italy, and other countries. If you're of Sicilian heritage, there's a pretty good chance that this is where your ancestors were from! It's also where I'm from!
Although the villages here have their own appeal and the lonely landscapes are starkly beautiful, it's not somewhere that I recommend for first-time visitors with limited time. There's just too much to see elsewhere.
Nonetheless, here are the main places of potential interest:
Caltagirone is a lovely little town known for its production of high quality tiles and ceramics
Piazza Armerina is a little town that houses Villa Romana del Casale, a mindblowingly stunning site of Roman ruins that includes a incredible collection of mosaics
Things to do
1. Enjoy the varied and gorgeous architecture
Despite its enormous geographic diversity, Sicily's most brilliant jewels are its cities, which exhibit decadent splendor. Noble Palermo is the most impressive of them, but you’ll also find splendid late-Baroque architecture in places like Siracusa, Noto, Ragusa, and Catania.
Many people come to Sicily and almost entirely avoid spending time in the cities because of reputations for being dirty, dangerous, chaotic, or just not that interesting. While they can certainly be chaotic, the cities are not dangerous and they are full of splendid architecture, great culture, terrific restaurants, and interesting daily life.
I don't recommend spending all your time in our big cities, but I do think you should visit a few of them!
2. Hit the beach!
Stretching for more than 1000 kilometers, Sicily’s coastline offers dozens of heavenly beaches, from popular sandy shores to hidden coves nestled between craggy rocks.
In general, I regard the best beaches to be those around the cities of Ragusa and Trapani, which are on different sides of the island. But it's all a matter of personal taste.
The beaches between Palermo and Trapani, such as Mondello and San Vito lo Capo, have a distinct Caribbean vibe. Off Trapani's coast, the Aegadian islands, particularly Favignana, offer a lovely island escape.
If you’re keen on wilder beaches, the hidden coves at the Zingaro nature reserve or the beaches around Torre Salsa, near Agrigento are perfect. Next to Agrigento, the famous Scala dei Turchi is an imposing rock formation with giant steps dropping into blue waters.
In the Vendicari in eastern Sicily, you can swim in the crystal clear waters of a nature reserve.
Or, if you’re looking for a bit of the high-life, take a dip at Isola Bella, right in front of Taormina. Take a look at our guide to the best beaches in eastern Sicily for more ideas.
And for those feeling adventurous, dive into the sapphire blue water lapping at the lava-formed rocky shores of the Riviera dei Ciclopi, near Catania.
3. Visit our archaeological sites
Greek temples, Roman theaters and mosaics, prehistoric tombs: Sicily has plenty of ancient remains.
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento boasts the best-preserved ancient Greek temples in the world, and the Greek theater of Syracuse still holds classical performances, as does the fascinating theater in Segesta.
The spectacular amphitheater of Taormina sits overlooking the sea and Mount Etna.
And the town of Piazza Armerina is home to the Villa Romana del Casale, which contains one of the world’s largest collection of Roman mosaics.
4. Shop for locally made goods and handicrafts
Sicily has an immense arts and crafts heritage spanning from pottery production to painted majolica (tin-glazed earthenware), and from lifelike puppets to coral jewels. Shoppers will be very pleased with what they find.
The town of Caltagirone is renowned for its hand painted ceramics, as are Sciacca (on the southern coast) and Santo Stefano di Camastra (on the northern coast). In each of these towns you can still see the artisans at work and even take lessons.
Trapani and Sciacca are well known for coral processing.
In Catania, Siracusa, and Palermo, puppet-making is still a family affair. You can attend a performance and learn the history behind it, as well as the techniques used to create the puppets. And, of course, buy some to bring home!
5. Eat your way through the island
Sicilian cuisine is fairly well known throughout the world, but it's much more complex and varied than what you'll find in most restaurants abraod. After all, our food today is the result of 3,500 years of international trade and occupation by empires and civilizations from all over Europe and Northern Africa.
For the best introduction to Sicilian cuisine, take your time strolling through and sampling everything in the souk-like markets of Palermo, Catania, and Siracusa.
Taste cannoli and cassata, two ricotta-filled delights; cool off from hot days with a granita (a slushy of sorts); indulge in the visual, as well as gustatory pleasure of frutta martorana (marzipan sweets); and be surprised by Aztec chocolate (in Sicily? Yes!).
Next, be sure to try biscuits filled with chocolate and meat in Modica; be tempted by pasta with sardines in Palermo or with fried eggplant in Catania; and once you’ve tried everything else, dare to taste fried or grilled innards (pani ca meusa and stigghiole).
6. Go hiking and get outdoors
Hiking and outdoor enthusiasts will find myriad opportunities in Sicily. You can hike across the Madonie or the Nebrodi mountains, climb up Europe’s most active volcano, ski on the slopes of Mount Etna or ride horses among its forests, and bike along the rocky coast at Plemmirio (near Siracusa).
You can go birdwatching in the Vendicari nature reserve, canyoning along the impressive Alcantara Gorges (not far from Taormina), or even kitesurfing at the Stagnone (near Trapani) or Isola delle Correnti, Sicily’s southernmost tip.
7. Visit wineries and sample Sicilian wine
If you're a wine lover, Sicily has plenty to satisfy you! You have the the famous Marsala wine, area around Noto is popular for its Nero d’Avola, Syrah, and Passito wines (with those from around Noto particularly well regarded), and mineral-intense wines from Mount Etna, where the vines grow in volcanic soil.
How to get around
Driving
In Sicily, renting a car is always the best choice, especially if you’re planning a trip across the whole island. While the public transportation system here is inexpensive, it can be unreliable, slow, and sometimes completely absent from the places you want to go.
Unfortunately, unlike other parts of Italy, Sicily has a very poor train network, and while there’s a decent bus system, it just doesn’t cover everywhere, and you will lose a lot of time that could be better spent exploring the island.
So, having a car will give you the flexibility to get out all over Sicily and to see as much of it as possible in the limited amount of time you have.
If it’s your first time road-tripping in Sicily, I understand you might be a bit worried about traffic, crazy driving styles, and poor road conditions. Well, I have good news: although the traffic can be quite bad, especially in the cities, the driving style is not as lawless or stressful as you might expect, and the roads are generally in pretty good condition. It might not be what you’re used to, but it’s not so bad.
Where to find a rental
Palermo, Catania, and Trapani’s airports all have multiple car rental companies, with a mix of the big international ones and local agencies. You can also find rental agencies at the train stations in Palermo and Catania.
You'll also find rental agencies in most decent-sized cities and smaller towns that are popular with tourists. All the same, for best selection you'd do well to pick up your rent in one of the main cities.
The average rental price for a compact car is about €35 per day, but rates can be significantly higher too - up to €100 during peak summer season if you don't book in advance. In shoulder season and off season, you can often find a rental for under 20 euros per day. Automatics are available, but know that most cars are manual, and you will pay more for an automatic.
To check prices and book, I always recommend using DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which frequently have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
Road conditions
Most roads throughout Sicily are in good condition, especially highways and state roads between major cities (called SS and strada statale). The only real exceptions are the often very narrow streets in old towns or bumpy roads leading to remote beaches.
There are three main highways in Sicily: the A18 runs along the eastern coast and connects Messina, Catania, Syracuse, and all the destinations between. The A19 connects Catania and Palermo, cutting through the center of the island. The A20 runs along the north coast between Messina and Palermo.
Apart from the highways, which make travel between major destinations quick and hassle free, there is always a state road connecting the bigger cities to the smaller towns in any given area.
Parking and driving in cities
Parking is often very limited in major cities and it can be a bit of a nightmare to find a spot if you’re looking for street parking. You don’t really need a car anyways when in Palermo or Catania, for instance, so it’s better to rent a car on the day you leave the city, and if possible, drop it off when you arrive into another one.
Parking aside, I’d generally try to avoid driving in the cities if you can. The traffic is often terrible, and you could end up wasting a huge amount of time sitting in traffic jams.
Motorbikes and scooters may pop up suddenly as if from nowhere and will often pass you on whatever side of the road is more convenient for them. Always keep an eye on your mirror.
On top of that, drivers are fairly aggressive, so city driving can be rather intense and unpleasant, especially for those not already used to driving in Italy.
Local driving habits/style
The drivers in Sicily, on the whole, could be described as rather "lax". You might also call the driving style sloppy, or perhaps we could go as far as to say "not very good". You'll often see drivers not signal turns, disobey traffic signs, drive in places they should't, etc. And as I said before, drivers can be a bit aggressive by many people's standards; don't be surprised if drivers tail you a bit too closely, pass when you might find it unsafe to do so, or if they don’t politely let you in when merging or making turns.
While driving, pay attention to Sicilian drivers as they prepare to pass you. They will often come up very close, and then overtake you at high speed.
If you’re worried, don’t panic. Just relax, go with the flow, and in a couple of days you'll have gone native (sort of)!
Public tranport
Public transit in Sicily can be challenging - it doesn’t cover everywhere, journey times are slow, and buses (the most common option) are often delayed. Sometimes, a bus or train that you’re waiting on will just not show up at all. This isn’t ideal for anyone, but especially not for visitors with a limited amount of time who are following a potentially tight itinerary.
In general, the coastline is served better than inland areas, and connections between big cities are the most frequent and reliable. Keep in mind that countryside locations, nature reserves, and most remote beaches are not served at all by public transport.
As mentioned above, renting a car is a much better option. If you still intend to get around by public transport, be sure to plan ahead and compare routes and timetables in advance to make sure they line up correctly. And no matter what, bring your patience...
Train travel
Train routes cover a small part of the island, mainly servicing the east coast between Messina and Siracusa, and the northern coast between Messina and Palermo. While there are some other train routes, they are not sensible options, and most of Sicily is not covered at all.
Even for the areas mentioned above, train service is infrequent and is rarely convenient, as it usually takes longer than a direct bus.
A one-way ticket costs about € 5-10 for local travel and € 15-20 for longer distances. Trenitalia operates all regular trains, while the railway circling Mount Etna is run by Ferrovia Circumetnea. Always remember to validate your train ticket before departure.
Bus travel
Buses are the most viable option for public transportation in Sicily as they are more comprehensive and reliable than the train, and are also cheaper. The bus system in Sicily is made up of many different companies who operate different routes and cover different parts of the island. Between them all, just about everywhere in Sicily is served by bus.
The main destinations (big cities, major points of interest, touristic towns, etc.) are well connected with each other by bus and you’ll usually find multiple buses per day, starting in the early morning and running into the late evening.
There is also regular bus service connecting big cities with the nearby smaller cities, towns, and major points of interest. There are generally multiple departures per day. *Note that on Sundays and holidays the service may be reduced or cancelled.
Sais, Interbus, and AST are three larger companies, but there are many more.
Plan to budget an average of € 3-8 for one-way tickets on short-distance routes, and € 15-20 for longer journeys. You can buy tickets in advance online, at the ticket vendor inside most stations station, or from tabaccherie (technically tobacco shops, but they sell much more than just that). If catching the bus in a smaller town, you can buy your ticket directly on board.
Bus stations in Sicily don’t have luggage storage, but the train stations do, and they are normally very close to one another.
Ferries & Hydrofoils
Hydrofoils (aliscafi - passengers only) and ferries (traghetti - allowig cars) run regularly throughout the year, connecting Sicily to its offshore islands. You can reach the Aeolian Islands from Messina and Milazzo; the Egadi Islands from Trapani and Marsala; Ustica from Palermo; and the Pelagic Islands from Porto Empedocle (near Agrigento).
In winter, the service can be affected by adverse sea conditions, and its not uncommon for a crossing to be cancelled.
In Summer buy tickets in advance as they do sometimes sell out. Connections to the islands are pretty frequent (at least daily), and for the main ones, there are usually multiple departures per day. Even Alicudi, a more remote island, has two crossing per day.
The journeys out to the islands take between 45 minutes and 3 hours, depending on which island you’re going to. One-way tickets usually cost €20-50.
Taxis and private transfers
Taxis are an expensive but convenient option for getting around within a city or to very close by destinations. They are available in airports, major cities, and tourist towns, but are not especially common in smaller or more remote locations.
In major cities, you can hail a taxi on the street, call one by phone, book online, or from your phone via the WeTaxi app.
For most trips taxis will use the meter, but you can often negotiate the fare when traveling between the airports and your destination. Near the railway stations in Palermo and Catania you might see unofficial taxis offering flat rates to take you to the airport. These are not registered or licensed, so you should refuse their offer and rely on an official taxi.
There is also uber in Palermo and Catania.
Anywhere in Sicily, you can also book an NCC (noleggio con conducente - a driver service), but you need to arrange it in advance.
Where to stay - best bases
Palermo
Palermo is the capital and largest city in Sicily, sitting on the far western edge of the island. It’s a perfect starting point for a Sicily trip, and with its 700,000 residents, is a true metropolis teeming with life.
There's a lot to do in the city itself, but it’s also close to a number of other towns and attractions that are worth checking out. You can easily do day trips to the coastal town of Cefalù, nearby beaches like Mondello and San Vito Lo Capo, the noble villas in Bagheria, and the Norman cathedral in Monreale. Trapani is just 90 minutes away by car, and you can also visit Erice and the salt pans along the coast.
With 4 or 5 days, you could visit quite a lot in the area around Palermo and Trapani.
If the idea of staying in a big city sounds too hectic for you, consider Mondello, which is essentially Palermo's beach, as an alternative.
Agrigento
In Agrigento, a city of about 60,000 people on the southern coast of Sicily, there is the majestic Valley of the Temples, which hosts the best preserved Greek temples in the world outside of Greece.
Due to its central location (from an east-west perspective) it is also the ideal place to break up journeys going between Eastern and Western Sicily.
There’s not a ton to keep you in Agrigento apart from the archaeological site, but if you’re not pressed for time, it’s a good base from which to set out on a day trip to the lovely island of Lampedusa, reachable via boat from the nearby coastal town of Porto Empedocle.
You can also check out a contemporary art district in the town of Favara, browse Sicily’s most important archaeological museum in Gela, and let yourself be surprised by the red stone of the town of Sciacca, one of the most underrated destinations on the Mediterranean coast.
Consider staying here for about 2-3 days.
Noto or Siracusa
Being more or less halfway between Ragusa and Siracusa, Noto is your best choice to explore Sicily’s southeast. It is considered the brightest jewel of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
But if you prefer the vitality of a busier city, then Siracusa would be your ideal base.
If you’ve got the time, I would suggest staying in this area for about 5 days (regardless of which city you choose), so that you can explore in depth. Siracusa and Noto are the star attractions, but you’ll also find the village of Marzamemi, the lovely town of Ragusa, and other nearby Baroque towns like Scicli and Modica. The beaches are also excellent.
Catania
Catania, known as the Black City for its peculiarly dark buildings built out of volcanic stone, is a city full of spirit.
It's also much less expensive and more authentic than nearby Taormina, so I think makes a better base. You can still visit Taormina as a day trip, of course.
When staying in Catania, you can also easily get out to the impressive Riviera dei Ciclopi, a stretch of coast with lots of volcanic rock, where you can go swimming in a sea filled with myths from ancient times. And Mount Etna is always right nearby.
Stay for at least a few days.
Trapani
You'll rarely see Trapani listed as a place to choose as your base, but I think that's just because foreigners don't really know about it!
Conveniently located near to Western Sicily's major highlights (and just 90 minutes from Palermo), Trapani is also surrounded by great beaches and the Aegadian islands are just 30 minutes away by hydrofoil. And with a population of 70,000 people, it's large enough to have lots of restaurants, supermarkets, and everything else you could need for an extended stay.
Accommodation prices are extremely reasonable and the city also has an international airport.
Weather - when to visit
Although Sicily is a year-round destination due to its pleasant Mediterranean climate, the best time to visit is from April to early June (spring and early summer), and late September through October (late summer through early-to-mid Fall).
During both of these periods, the temperatures hover between 68-80°F, the days are long and sunny, the skies are super blue, and the sea is warm and inviting, while the beaches are uncrowded.
Visiting Sicily during the spring and late summer/early fall allows you to make the most of your trip: you can enjoy cities and archaeological sites without the heat stifling you, go for hikes or swims under pleasant sunny skies, and tour the entire island with a fraction of the crowds that you’ll find during the summer.
Since visitors, especially international ones are mostly absent during these periods, you can count on just about everything being more affordable, from car rentals to accommodation, and tours to flights.
There are also some interesting festivals in these periods. The Greek Theater Festival in Syracuse brings classical plays to the city’s ancient theater. The Taormina Film Fest screens movies in its marvelous Greco-Roman amphitheater. And the Fall sagre (food festival) celebratea the harvest season.
Visiting in Spring
Starting in March, the weather begins to warm up. Wildflowers explode all over Sicily, the countryside is in full bloom, and the first beachgoers venture out to the beach (although the water is still… bracing!). The temperatures are ideal for an active trip, so you can enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking and biking without the summer heat.
If your schedule is completely flexible, it’s well worth planning a trip that overlaps with the Easter celebrations, which are a lot of fun and a fantastic cultural experience.
April is the ideal month to explore Sicily's ancient temples and archaeological sites, as the weather will be pleasantly warm but not yet hot, and there will be absolutely no crowds.
Visiting in Summer
If you want to visit Sicily in the summer, I would suggest coming in June. This is a great time to be in Sicily, as the temperatures are still fairly moderate, the sea is warm and inviting but the beaches are still quiet, and the high season has not fully begun yet, meaning better prices and more options for everything.
July and August are the hottest months and the heat really can be unbearable, with temperatures regularly exceeding 100°F. If you plan to get out into nature or want to visit the cities and archaeological sites, you will be doing so under pretty intense sun and heat. But you can always cool off with a granita!
From July until the middle of September, the beaches are packed, the cities are crowded, and you may have to wait in line to enter some key attractions. Accommodation prices are generally higher and you need to book just about everything well in advance to ensure availability.
On the positive side, the island’s lively nightlife is at its best during this period, with vacationers and islanders alike ready to party.
The inland portion of Sicily is generally cooler, and if you want to escape the crowds, you can either head inland or visit less well-known parts of the coast (of which there are many).
Visiting in Fall
The Fall months offer milder, but still warm weather and plenty of sunshine. In early fall, Sicily still retains its summer feeling, but the crowds thin out and the prices drop. There’s very little rainfall at this time and the sea is still warm enough for swimming.
The harvest season takes place in the fall (especially grape and olive picking), so this is an excellent time to visit wineries and taste local wines, and there are also many sagre (food festivals linked to the harvest season) in the villages, which are interesting and a lot of fun.
Early fall is the best season for walking in the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains and hiking on Mount Etna.
Visiting in Winter
During winter, the temperatures are generally still agreeable, with daytime temps rarely dropping lower than 50°F. There is some rainfall, but it’s not constant and is unlikely to ruin a trip.
This is the perfect time if you’re looking for a quieter getaway, as you'll have the island to yourself. Along with that, prices for everything are at their lowest, making a winter trip very affordable. Of course, as this is the low season, some touristic businesses and services may shut down, especially in areas where tourism is the economic driver.
Even so, you can still enjoy churches, palaces, museums, and archaeological sites. And if you’re interested in winter sports, you’ll love the opportunity to ski or snowboard on the slopes of an active volcano, while steam rises from the summit!
Sicily itineraries
Here are a couple of quick ideas for itineraries around Sicily. You can see a much more in-depth overview in our 10-day islandwide itinerary.
5-day itinerary - Catania, Etna, Palermo and the west coast
If you’re pressed for time but want to make the most of your trip to Sicily, in 5 days you can discover the energy of the island’s two main cities, the noble Palermo and the black Catania, and squeeze in a couple of quick day trips as well.
On the journey between the two cities, you’ll discover the magnificence of Mount Etna, the Roman mosaics in Piazza Armerina, the medieval town of Erice, and the spectacular salt pans between Trapani and Marsala, which light up with a thousand colors at sunset.
Plan for three days in Catania, with day trips to Etna and the Roman Mosaics on two of them. Then base yourself in Palermo for 2 days, visiting Erice, Trapani, and Marsala on one of them.
Day 1 - Catania
Day 2 - Catania : day trip for to Mount Etna for some hiking
Day 3 - Catania - day trip to see the Roman mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale in Piazza Armerina
Day 4 - Palermo
Day 5 - Palermo: day trip to Erice, Trapani, and Marsala
7-day itinerary - east and west coast highlights
Begin in Palermo, which mixes old world charm with frenetic energy. The city is lovely and it’s a good base from where to explore Monreale's Norman cathedral and San Vito lo Capo, renowned for its Caribbean-like sea.
After two days in Palermo, head west and spend a day visiting Erice, Marsala, and the salt pans. On your fourth day, continue on to Agrigento and visit the magnificent Valley of the Temples.
From Agrigento, head east, stopping in Ragusa to discover this old city built in a ravine. On the same day, plan to visit Noto and take a deep dive into this golden Baroque city.
Your sixth day should be dedicated to exploring Siracusa, and the next to relaxing and unwinding in Taormina.
Finally, end your trip by climbing Mount Etna, and relaxing in elegant Taormina (or in Catania instead!).
Day 1 - Palermo
Day 2 - Palermo: day trip to Monreale and San Vito lo Capo
Day 3 - Palermo to Agrigento, stopping in Erice, Marsala, and maybe Trapani
Day 4 - Agrigento - visit the Valley of the Temples and Scala dei Turchi
Day 5 - Ragusa and Noto (overnight in whichever you prefer)
Day 6 - Siracusa
Day 7 - Mount Etna and Taormina (or Mount Etna and Catania)
14-day itinerary - all the island
If you have two full weeks in Sicily, you can comfortably see all of the island’s highlights and standout attractions, and then get a bit off the beaten path to discover places that most travelers don’t make it to.
You will discover the noble splendor of Palermo and the beautiful baroque cities of the east coast - Catania, Syracuse, Noto, and Ragusa. There will be time for some relaxation in Taormina, hiking on Mount Etna, and a bit of art and culture learning about the ceramics of Caltagirone and the mosaics of Piazza Armerina.
For beaches, you can make your way to the wild coast around Noto, visit the small fishing village of Marzamemi, and get a taste for Sicily’s Caribbean-like beaches around Trapani.
You'll also be able to visit the world's best-preserved temples in Agrigento, tour the archaeological areas of Segesta, and visit the coastal town of Sciacca to see its traditional coral processing.
You’ll even have time to hop on a ferry and enjoy a full day on the island of Favignana. Not bad for two weeks, right?
Day 1 - Catania
Day 2 - Catania: day trip to Riviera dei Ciclopi and Taormina
Day 3 - Catania: day trip to Mount Etna
Day 4 - Catania: day trip to the towns of Caltagirone and Piazza Amerina
Day 5 - Syracuse & the island of Ortigia
Day 5 - Syracuse: day trip to Vendicari, Marzamemi, and Noto
Day 7 - Syracuse: day trip to Ragusa and Modica
Day 8 - Agrigento - visit the Valley of the Temples
Day 9 - Agrigento to Trapani: visiting Sciacca, Selinunte, and Marsala on the way
Day 10 - Trapani: day trip to the island of Favignana
Day 11 - Trapani: day trip to the Zingaro nature reserve, San Vito lo Capo, and Segesta
Day 12 - Palermo
Day 13 - Palermo - day trip to Cefalù
Day 14 - Palermo
More Sicily travel info
For more advice on planning your trip to Sicily, check out some of our other guides and itineraries!
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